Anybody running a .509" cam in a 440 on the street?

[grouseman]

My only experience with a 10.5 CR 440 and the Mopar 509 cam was that it was too radical for the street in an auto trans Charger - it was a dog for any kind of street duty except wide open throttle.  We moved down to a .484" and it transformed the whole engine.  Strong as hell, rumpity, and still responded to throttle below 3,000 rpm. 

Any other experience? 

grouseman

[kamkuda]

I had one in my Cuda.  I would say, not a great street cam.  There are much better street grinds available.

[Duey]

I have one in mine...hence the "rump, rump, rump" below my avatar.

It's not the best street cam if you're not set up right...I wasn't right with power brakes, a 3.23 SG rear and a 2500 stall converter...I will be right with the 4.10 SG I bought from firefighter3931 and a 3800rpm TA 10" tight convertor from Summit.

I personally love the way an old .509 sounds (vice the new one ground on 112 or 114* centers).  I just have to get a vacuum pump or resevoir for the brakes...

I'm looking forward to putting the new bits in the beast when I get home in the spring.  I know there are better grinds out there today, but a  509 for me sounds exactly like what a big muscle car should sound like.

Cheers,
Duey

[cudaken]

 I have a 509 in my 68 Road Runner, does two things well. Idles like a can full of rocks and good WOT. One thing I did do is install a bolt behind the carb mounting point on the kick down side control. Make the Runner shift later and makes it easyer to live with.

I love the old 284 cam and should have left it in the Runner. But we know how that goes, all wise looking for something better.

                           Cuda Ken

[BrianShaughnessy]

I got one...  I'm changing it out for the 528 solid shortly.    It's not the best choice for auto trans car. 

[Duey]

I got one...  I'm changing it out for the 528 solid shortly.    It's not the best choice for auto trans car. 

Brian, with .028" lash, a 528 solid is effectively a .500" lift cam....is it being ground on wider centers and thus a smoother idle that makes you want to change?

Cheers
Duey

[BrianShaughnessy]

I got one...   I'm changing it out for the 528 solid shortly.      It's not the best choice for auto trans car.  

Brian, with .028" lash, a 528 solid is effectively a .500" lift cam....is it being ground on wider centers and thus a smoother idle that makes you want to change?

Cheers
Duey

Something like that...     I'd like just a bit better response just below and around 2000 rpm for using 5th gear at 55-60.   The 509 falls off right at 5500 and also cold starts and idle kinda suck.   

[firefighter3931]

I got one...   I'm changing it out for the 528 solid shortly.      It's not the best choice for auto trans car.  

 

Brian, that is a big step in the right direction   especially for the type of driving you like to do and the way your car is set up. The 509 has 250* duration at .050 valve lift....the 528 has 241* @ .050 but when you factor in lash it's closer to 235* @ .050. That is a huge difference and the wider lsa on the 528 (112 vs 108) also makes a significant difference in idle quality and low speed drivability. The 528 makes monster torque and still pulls hard to 6k   Your engine will be real close to it's sweet spot cruising along with this cam in overdrive instead of 1000 rpm shy of it's powerband, which is the case with the 509.  

The 509 works well with the right combo and hits hard right at 3500 rpm in a 440. So basicly to be happy with this grind you want a 3500 stall and 3.91 or deeper gears. Of course idle vacuum is non-existent so power brakes are a PITA with this cam....if you intend to use them.

Ron

[MoparMotel]

I dont want to high jack your thread but i have a 69 R/T SE 440 console auto and was going to put a .509 cam in mine. Would .484 be a better choice for my car?


Thanks Nick

[Kryp2nitE]

add another one to the 509 street group

[cudaken]

 MoparMotel, I love the 484 cam. With 3.23 gears and 2200 stall it moved the Road Runner pretty dam good. But, I hate to use this term, the 284 cam is old school ( ) and there is more than likely better cams made now. Ron and Neil booth love Eagle cams.

I was running a Reed Cam 410-TM272H-TM282H-114A2 (think that is the part number) 69 Charger. Pretty close to a stock HP 440/383 cam but set up for a blower. Bottom in was great, with 2.76 Sure gripp 2400 stall and 11" tires of idle could rip the hides 20 feet +. No power power breaking and stock 72 intake. Had 9.03 to 1 compression. If you know my name, you know what happen to the 440.

Might talk to Dennis at Reed Cams. 1-770-474-7320.

509, not for a sort of mild maner steet car unless you have a stick and 3.91 gears. Sure sounds K--king cool.

Brain, I drove a friends 69 Runner with the 528 stick with a 4 banger. Riped the hides in all 4 gears and short shifting at 3500 RPMs. Had a puke in a 5.0 Mustang that thought he wanted to play, after short shoting in traffic he thought driffrent when the road cleared. Did not think much of the Runner till I drove it, idle was, well a little tame.

                           Ken, your friend.

[IBsmokin]

I heard the 509 works great in the 400 block especially if you are running it with a 440 crank.

[Chryco Psycho]

I prefer the 484 to the 509 in most applications , the 528 mech is an awesome cam make great power

[Big Sugar]

Hey Guys
I'm running a .509 cam, If I switch out to a .528 what will I see in performance gains ? 1/4 mile
Will the cam be a simple Re&Re or do I get a valve train upgrade as well.

I've got a .30 over 440 six pak with 10.5:1 comp My 452  heads are fully ported,matchedand polished. I'm pushing a 727 w/cheetah valve body, 3000 TCI.  thru a 8.3/4  S/G 3:91  rear end.
Right now the Charger Pulls hard straight thru 5500 rpm
                            Torque peaked at 425 at 3400 rpm   
                                H/P  peaked at 350 at 6000 rpm
Torque and Hp cross over at 320 H/P &ft-lbs at  5300 rpm All at the rear wheels


I'm sending the Six pak to Promax this winter to be Restored and Dyno'd as well as adding the 
"Max Pak" upgrade.

Ron

[cudaken]

 528 is a solid lifter cam. Yes rockers and arms won't work but you know that, well I hope. MP rockers would work fine but if you are going to buy, might as well get the roller stuff. But the MP stuff was fine for the Hemi.

                         Cuda Ken

[Big Sugar]

Any ideas on performance ? Am I going to put too much down too early , Right now with the .509 I get a solid launch with  easily controlled wheelspin.







Ron

[firefighter3931]

Any ideas on performance ? Am I going to put too much down too early , Right now with the .509 I get a solid launch with   easily controlled wheelspin.

Ron

Ron, it will idle a lot nicer and the street manners will be improved. It will make a lot more TQ down low and pull good to 6k. This is a very nice street cam for most applications. I see it as an improvement over the 509 for your combo.

Ron

[1970440RT]

     I have a 509 in an e-headed 440.  Auto trans, 3000 stall, & 4.10 rear.  I have power brakes and haven't had any problems yet.  I can smoke the tires at will and overall the car can really run.  I've never second guessed this cam until reading the responses from Ron and Chryc.  Is this cam not a good choice?  Can better be had?  When building this motor, I figured it to be a good choice for a hydraulic.  I'm always looking to go faster but I didn't want to spring for adjustable rockers.  I always thought the next step after this cam would be a solid or a roller ($$$$).  Am I going about this the wrong way?

[SeattleCharger]

      

[cudaken]

 SeattleChargerDog, you don't even want to think about it! When I was telling you to get the part number of the cam before you bought it? I was more afraid you would get this cam. I take your broom stick with knots cam over the 509.

                                            Cuda Ken

[SeattleCharger]

     I have been trying to decide which cam to use.   The one I bought is 260/260 duration 430/430 lift.

  Considering the MP P4120235. Has 284/284 duration and 484/484 lift.  

       I talked to the guy I bought the cam from again.   Might go get the cast iron spread bore to go with the thermoquad 850.

He was saying the bigger cam will idle badly and won't get off the line very well and will foul my plugs all the time doing the stop light to stop light type driving around here.   Unless I wind up the rpm's frequently to clear them out.   But if first gear shifts around fifty or higher, won't prob. happen hardly ever driving around W. Seattle.   Says the torque and low end is what gets the car off the line, gets it moving, recommended I would prob. like the smaller cam.     Ya, smooth idle, I don't know.   So I have the 2500 stall, I don't know.   Too bad I can't drive two cars built two ways.   But I   haven't.     I am leaning towards using the smaller cam and switching rockers later if I don't like it, since I can't go smaller than 1.5 on the rockers.   Sort of like, can always drill a bigger hole, but can't make one smaller.     I would have to buy that new cam anyways, since I already have this one I can spend the cam dough on the rockers.  Input or info welcome.  Just trying to learn here.   I need some muscle car friends around here to drive their cars, lol.  

[8WHEELER]

You will need to do a proper tune on what ever combo you run. I drove my red car to
South Seattle for College every day for 3yrs starting in 1980 from Bellevue. I had 10-1 comp
at first with the 484 cam Holley Street Dominator 800 Holley, 2600 stall 323 gear's for the most
part. I did jump to 12.5 to 1 within the first year of school there, I never fouled a spark plug
the hole time I was going there, but I did get some freeway miles on 1-90 to Bellevue but its
really not that far then back to stop light to stop light again.
But with todays gas I would not go over 9.5 for a daily street car. The larger the cam and the
larger the carb the more accurate your tune will have to be for a good street engine.

You might consider the 272 cam that is the next cam I am going to try. It is supposed to have
good vacuum for your brakes and still a bit of that lumpy cam sound we like. I have heard
a few, one was actually pretty smooth but the other two sounded lumpy, not like the 484
but you can't have everything.

Dan

[firefighter3931]

    I have been trying to decide which cam to use.   The one I bought is 260/260 duration 430/430 lift.

  Considering the MP P4120235. Has 284/284 duration and 484/484 lift.  

       I talked to the guy I bought the cam from again.   Might go get the cast iron spread bore to go with the thermoquad 850.

He was saying the bigger cam will idle badly and won't get off the line very well and will foul my plugs all the time doing the stop light to stop light type driving around here.   Unless I wind up the rpm's frequently to clear them out.   But if first gear shifts around fifty or higher, won't prob. happen hardly ever driving around W. Seattle.   Says the torque and low end is what gets the car off the line, gets it moving, recommended I would prob. like the smaller cam.     Ya, smooth idle, I don't know.   So I have the 2500 stall, I don't know.   Too bad I can't drive two cars built two ways.   But I   haven't.     I am leaning towards using the smaller cam and switching rockers later if I don't like it, since I can't go smaller than 1.5 on the rockers.   Sort of like, can always drill a bigger hole, but can't make one smaller.     I would have to buy that new cam anyways, since I already have this one I can spend the cam dough on the rockers.   Input or info welcome.   Just trying to learn here.     I need some muscle car friends around here to drive their cars, lol.  

The 284/484 is too big for a stock 383-400 engine inmo. It will feel real soft on the bottom end, especially with a heavy car, unless you're using a 3000+ stall and 4.10 gears. Those old MP grinds are past their prime....much better stuff out there. The Crower HDP271 would be my choice for what you're looking to do with this car. It's a split pattern grind 222/234 on a wide lobe center (112*) to flatten out the powerband. It makes good power everywhere....not just at 3000+ Rpm. Engle also has some nice modern profiles that work much better than the ancient dinosaur era MP stuff.  

Ron

[8WHEELER]

Hey Ron
Have you tried the MP 272 cam?? I have heard good things about it but not anything at all on this site.
I know its been around a long time as well but I have never run one yet, I did purchase one a couple
years back for the engine I am going to put in my all stock QQ1 68 RT. I was just going to put a
little lump in it but the rest bone stock. And like I said the MP 272 cam was promoted as a good mild cam.
I have no loyalty really to mopar cams just have been told it was a good one.

Dan

[firefighter3931]

Hey Ron
Have you tried the MP 272 cam?? I have heard good things about it but not anything at all on this site.
I know its been around a long time as well but I have never run one yet, I did purchase one a couple
years back for the engine I am going to put in my all stock QQ1 68 RT. I was just going to put a
little lump in it but the rest bone stock. And like I said the MP 272 cam was promoted as a good mild cam.
I have no loyalty really to mopar cams just have been told it was a good one.

Dan

Hi Dan, i haven't used that grind myself but it looks pretty descent on paper. Just a hair bigger than the factory 4bbl grind. It's a single pattern with wide lobe centers and modest .050 duration numbers....perfect for a stock rebuild with manifolds. Here are the specs :

272/272 advertised
222/222 @ .050
112* lsa
48* overlap
.455/.455 lift

This should work pretty descent for what you're looking to do. Good street manners, lots of manifold vacuum and excellent bottom end power. It will probably have a slight lope but nothing too radical.

Ron

[8WHEELER]

Thanks Ron
That was the input I was getting from the users of the cam, I have had all the specs for some time
but like you I have never run it, I have relied on input from the couple users of the cam mostly
regarding the vacuum. As you might no I need to use handcontrols to drive for the last 20yrs now
and need good vacuum, or I need a brake pump like on old red. But I only need the one car that
gets 8 mpg  .

So as long as I get at least 14-15lbs of vacuum at idle, standard power brakes work great evan using
the hand controls  .

Dan

[Ghoste]

You know Ron, you are slowly but surely convincing me of ditching my 484 cam for something else this winter.

[cudaken]

  SeattleChargerDog, carb running to rich will foul the plugs not the cam. As much as I dislike the 509 im my Runner fouling plugs have not been a problem. If you went with 1.6 Rockers and if I did the math right you would have 458 lift, 277 advertised duration and 36.2 valve over lap. In other words up to about the specks of a stock HP cam

If you going to run the HP manafolids, cast iron intake and the thermaquad the 277 cam seems like it would work well.

I would try it or what Ron listed for you. I have only bought 1 cam in the last 15 years. When I was running the old MP cam's I loved them. But better cam's have been made in the mean time.

                              Cuda Ken

[firefighter3931]

So as long as I get at least 14-15lbs of vacuum at idle, standard power brakes work great evan using
the hand controls   .

Dan

That shouldn't be a problem Dan. The seat timing is real short with this grind so it will purr at idle. My old Crower hdp282 is similar to this grind only bigger, everywhere. It's a 282/292 advertised, 226/236@.050, 112 lsa, .482/.504 lift. That cam made 15-16hg idle vacuum so the MP 272* should be even better.  

Ron

[kamkuda]

The advantage of the 509 cam is when old iron heads are employed and you do not wish to spend the $ on machine work to the heads for better springs to take advantage of more lift.  The 509 has Moderate lift with a fair amount of duration and it had its place. 

I would not use it on an eddy headed engine but I will be using it on my 915 iron headed 440 with 4:10 gears and a decent converter.

The 509 grind is pretty old tech and there are better grinds out there.  I happen to have the crower grind that Firefighter is suggesting, atleast for a while.

[SeattleCharger]

Can I ask your guy's opinion about this?   Is this streetable?   Is there any way to get the compression down to run pump gas?     Could I use the cam and heads on my rebuild?   Or the whole block for that matter.  My block is a 74 or 75 maybe, don't know.  Or other parts I will need to buy anyways?   I'm waiting for a reply on the size of cam.   He emailed me that all of the motor is good and that he only took it apart for inspection.  
Thanks,
Nate

    Here is what the ad says:

"Serious 1969 Mopar 440 motor problay the best year out there for 440's to build a race motor because of the extra ribbing in the block, , 12.5 :1 TRW Pistons 30 over , motor is apart for easy inspection , includes crank, pistons, rods, push rods, solid cam & lifters, 906 heads, high volume oil pump, double roller timing chain and gear, timing cover, harmonic balancer , cast iron water pump housing, valley pan, electronic distributor, box misc bolts & brackets , No Ridge IN Cylinders,,, $ 800 .   I also have a highly sought after alum. Holley Street Dominator intake 440 motor will only sell if motor sells add into the package for $ 200 more. Same intake a Mopar buddy runs in his 440 Dart and his times are 11:50's in the 1/4 Mile."

[SeattleCharger]

Aw, I'd prob. be better off using that money on a nice cam and carb and intake and just rebuilding my engine, I don't know.  What I was figuring with this used engine above, is that if I add up the internal parts of my rebuild, it might ad up to 800 bucks anyways.  

[cudaken]

 SeattleChargerDog, what I be asking is why the motor was pulled a part more than anything. Yea, I know he said for easy inspection, but if there was no issues what do you need to inspect?

Where did you find it, local or E-bay?

If the crank is good, worth $200.00 to $300.00 on E-bay ready to go. Block, could be punched 60 over and I would say worth $300.00 to $400.00. 906's heads stock, say $150.00 and that is a bout , max now. For $800.00 and parts are good not a bad deal.

I have two toughts on the pistons. First will not work well on the street unless you run a loct of octane booster. Second, ones the block is checked, more than likely will need a over bore and pistons will be ash trays that will fall over.

Find out the bulid date of the 440 block, Hemi Geno is looking for a date and as offred a finders fee for the date he wants.

Do you have a 440? If not, that a bad deal but not great either.

                                       Cuda Ken

[SeattleCharger]

Thanks Ken.   I have a 440 that has been taken apart and cleaned by a machine shop.   It needs a bore job, not much though.  I have been trying to figure out which cam to buy, want a hot one, going to put on a big carb and intake, have stock hp exh. manifolds, 2500 stall.   I would be buying extras from him I don't need, unless '69 block is that much better than mine, a '74 prob.   I want that holley intake, but he won't sell it until he sees if it sells with the motor.   He is local.   I just realized in the photos of my engine here that I had a stock cam already, forgot about that, da, now I bought that other one, two stock ones to hang up for decoration,  

Thanks again.   Ashtrays huh?  
Nate

[cudaken]

I have been trying to figure out which cam to buy, want a hot one, going to put on a big carb and intake, have stock hp exh. manifolds, 2500 stall.     
Nate

Nate, you need a bible and not more parts. First Nasty cam, big carb and stock Manfolds do not go hand and hand.

You need to start your own posting about what you want to do instead of taging on to one that is going.

Here are the details you must post for anyone to help you and your quest.

1 Budget, we spend other peoples money easy.

2 Rear gears and if sure grip or not. Or gears you think you needed. I will be happy to do the math for RPM's at driffrent speeds.

3 Have you ever ran at the track and if so what was your best ET.

4 If you have not ran at the track, well or have what do you think the et you need? 13.0 is fast on the street and things happen fast. But will need deep gears.

5 Driver, weekend car or race only. Guessing driver.

6 Weight of the Charger, with it being a stock 3 gen I am going to guess 3800 pounds.

There is so much more than big cam and big crab. You could slow you self down if done wrong. I know my Runner would be quicker with a smaller cam, but I as well feel in love with the nasty lope. 383 replaced the 426 Maxie that had a 628 solid lift cam. But all the oaarts where matched to each other and 426 maxies heads make the new E-heads look like starter head's.

Think about what I said, then ask. If I remeber right you are on a tight budget. My rings cost $140.00 in the ill fated 440.

                                          Ken

[694spdRT]

Can I ask your guy's opinion about this?   Is this streetable?   Is there any way to get the compression down to run pump gas?     Could I use the cam and heads on my rebuild?   Or the whole block for that matter.   My block is a 74 or 75 maybe, don't know.   Or other parts I will need to buy anyways?   I'm waiting for a reply on the size of cam.   He emailed me that all of the motor is good and that he only took it apart for inspection.  
Thanks,
Nate

    Here is what the ad says:

"Serious 1969 Mopar 440 motor problay the best year out there for 440's to build a race motor because of the extra ribbing in the block, , 12.5 :1 TRW Pistons 30 over , motor is apart for easy inspection , includes crank, pistons, rods, push rods, solid cam & lifters, 906 heads, high volume oil pump, double roller timing chain and gear, timing cover, harmonic balancer , cast iron water pump housing, valley pan, electronic distributor, box misc bolts & brackets , No Ridge IN Cylinders,,, $ 800 .   I also have a highly sought after alum. Holley Street Dominator intake 440 motor will only sell if motor sells add into the package for $ 200 more. Same intake a Mopar buddy runs in his 440 Dart and his times are 11:50's in the 1/4 Mile."

I have a 440 that was built very similar to this with the 2295 TRW's. The engine has been balanced, align bored and decked so I wanted to keep the setup. In order to get the compression down I am using the thicker Fel Pro big bore head gaskets that are 0.051" in thickness. My 440 has the pistons 0.015" down in the hole and my ported 346 heads measure 90cc's. This will give my a final compression around 10.25 to 1. Because of this compression I will be using a 509 cam I already have because I need the overlap to help bleed off lower rpm cylinder pressure. Before going this route I went over all of this with the guys from Hughes engines and it should run on pump gas.

I did have 509 cam in a lower compression 440 (9.0 to 1) even thought the guy claimed it was a 10.5 to 1 engine when I bought it.   I always felt it was doggy in the lower rpm's and after I tore it down and a found the low compression slugs it made sense.

In your case you might be better off building your stuff. If you do decide to buy that engine you might be better off replacing those 2295 pistons and use a newer Engle cam though.

[firefighter3931]

The other option when using the 2295 pistons is to have the domes milled off and make youself a flattop piston.  

They usually produce closer to 11.5:1 static compression with a stock open chamber head....the 12.5 number is high. For a street motor it's preferable to dial in the static compression where it needs to be and not rely on the cam to bleed off cylinder pressure.  

Ron

[694spdRT]

The other option when using the 2295 pistons is to have the domes milled off and make youself a flattop piston.  

They usually produce closer to 11.5:1 static compression with a stock open chamber head....the 12.5 number is high. For a street motor it's preferable to dial in the static compression where it needs to be and not rely on the cam to bleed off cylinder pressure.  

Ron

I agree...it is not the best solution if you are starting from scratch.

[Bandit72]

ok, not planning on hi-jacking a thread or anything, but i currently have an engine that i built up myself and was very proud of until i read this post. The engine is a 64, 413 block, stock bore/stroke. flat top pistons, 516 closed chamber heads. I'm not sure of the compression ratio but i assure you it has plenty. (has to have at least premium unleaded or it pings to beat hell and doens't like to start) anyway, i put in a .509 lift cam, new lifter, and valve springs. Edelbrock dual plane intake and 750 edelbrock carb. and Hooker Competition headers, the tranny has a 2000 stall converter and the rearend i have for it is a 3.91 posi...how is this gonna perform, do i need a higher stall?, single plane intake? eventualy (afew years down the road) i would like to get a keilser 5-speed for it but like i said it'll be awhile. i'll try to find my exact cam specs tommorow, they're in the glovebox of my truck at the time.

oh yeah, this isn't gonna be an everyday car, mostly car shows, cruise nights, and an occasionaly friday night drag....

thanks Bandit

[firefighter3931]

ok, not planning on hi-jacking a thread or anything, but i currently have an engine that i built up myself and was very proud of until i read this post. The engine is a 64, 413 block, stock bore/stroke. flat top pistons, 516 closed chamber heads. I'm not sure of the compression ratio but i assure you it has plenty. (has to have at least premium unleaded or it pings to beat hell and doens't like to start) anyway, i put in a .509 lift cam, new lifter, and valve springs. Edelbrock dual plane intake and 750 edelbrock carb. and Hooker Competition headers, the tranny has a 2000 stall converter and the rearend i have for it is a 3.91 posi...how is this gonna perform, do i need a higher stall?, single plane intake? eventualy (afew years down the road) i would like to get a keilser 5-speed for it but like i said it'll be awhile. i'll try to find my exact cam specs tommorow, they're in the glovebox of my truck at the time.

oh yeah, this isn't gonna be an everyday car, mostly car shows, cruise nights, and an occasionaly friday night drag....

thanks Bandit

It will need more converter for sure.   The holley Street Dominator or Performer Rpm dual Plane would be my choice for an intake manifold. I hope you don't have power brakes because they won't work with low vacuum.  

Ron

[cudaken]

 Did you have the bigger valves in stalled in the 516 heads? To me that will hurt what the 509 cam is desigen to do, breath at higher RPM's.

I would say around a 3000 RPM stall would be way better than the 2000.

It will run OK, but will not be great at the lower RPM's, but the 3.91's will help keep the R's up.

                            Cuda Ken

[Bandit72]

i'll check into the higher stall converter sometime before i put the engine in, and i am also planning on getting some edelbrock aluminum heads, don't know too much about them, but i see them on ebay quite often, will these solve the "not breathing" problem?

[Bandit72]

ok, i found the card that came with my cam here it goes...

Comp Cams
                      intake   exhaust
gross valve lift    .507        .510
duration @
.006 tappet lift   284         296

[firefighter3931]

That's not a bad cam ! The xe284h is a lot more streetable than the 509. It is 10* smaller @.050 lift and is on a wider lsa (110* vs 108* for the MP 509). What that means is that it will idle better and make more power down low. It should come on pretty hard at 2500-2700 rpm instead of 3500+ which is what it would do with the 509. It would help if you could degree the cam in and advance it to move the powerband down lower.

Ron

[Bandit72]

That's not a bad cam ! The xe284h is a lot more streetable than the 509. It is 10* smaller @.050 lift and is on a wider lsa (110* vs 108* for the MP 509). What that means is that it will idle better and make more power down low. It should come on pretty hard at 2500-2700 rpm instead of 3500+ which is what it would do with the 509. It would help if you could degree the cam in and advance it to move the powerband down lower.

Ron

thanks ron, i really needed to hear that, i was thinking that i had just spent 180 on a cam that i didn't need...if i had the means and knowledge to degree a cam, i would....will this cam still have a good "lope" too it? just wondering..i love that big block mopar lope...

[firefighter3931]

Bandit, it will have a nice agressive tone....don't worry, no one will mistake it for stock ! 

If the funds permit, you should consider a torque converter upgrade. PTC has a very nice 11in street converter that would be ideal with that grind and it's reasonably priced as well. Turbo action also makes a good 11in conveter that would fit the bill. I'm glad to hear you're not running the 509....been there done that....won't do it again....ever !

Ron

[cudaken]

 

Did I say that Ron Just kidding Ron. I pick on people I like, I all so take jabs well.

                                 Ken

[Ghoste]

Hey Bandit, degreeing isn't as difficult as you may think.  You probably already know someone with a wheel and some experience under their belt who could help you.  You just have to ferret them out.

[Duey]

Out of interest, how much is the worst that any of you guys has ever seen a cam out by when you've degreed it? 

Seeing as 2-4 degrees advanced or retarded can make a big difference on an engine, a cam that's several degrees would really behave like a dog and make the whole combo much worse than if the cam was degreed, right?

Cheers,
Duey