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Whats the best way to fix these fenders

Started by oldcarnut, September 30, 2009, 10:32:48 AM

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oldcarnut

These are a pair of 70 Coronet fenders I got for my Bird clone.  I got them because it was pretty much all I could find at the time that weren't bent up or rusted out with big holes.  Wish I had better but thats all I got for now. They were dipped by the previous owner and never recoated then stored in a shed and got surface rust all over.  I thought about getting some of the derust products to try but I got a call last night from someone that wanted the flat Challenger Hood I've been trying to sell.  He offered to blast (sandblast?-I didn't ask) the fenders and epoxy coat them at his body shop in trade for the hood which was ok by me until I started reading that blasting wasn't the best way to do it because it would give me more problems.  I feel sure the surface rust would sand off the outside fairly easy but the underside I wouldn't be able to get to all of it.  Any thoughts? Is the warpage or whatever blast problems common or does it have more to do with how it was performed? I have to decide by this Sat.  Thanks

1BAD68

They're kind of big for this but I would try the electrolysis method, it would be worth the hassle.
http://www.rowand.net/Shop/Tools/Electrolysis.htm

tan top

think i would chemical dip them to remove the  rust again
:yesnod: :scratchchin:  :popcrn:
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oldcarnut

I think the nearest place would be one state away and after the cost of shipping and dipping again I'm not sure if it would be worth it instead of finding another set of fenders.  Maybe I should just try to soak them in a treatment myself  :shruggy:.  I wonder how much the blasting really would damage or warped them up?

richRTSE

i used a rust dissolver in a plastic spray bottle (made by permatex) on a set of floor pans I left laying around for a while. It worked pretty well. I found it at the local parts store. If you can't get them dipped again, it might be worth a try. You may want to try it on a small area and see if your happy with the results. It's pretty cheap, like $6 a bottle.

http://the-auto-alley.amazonwebstore.com/RUST-DESOLVER-GEL12-OZ.-TRIGGER/M/B000GKW2Q4.htm

mally69

Go down to napa and get a bottle of ( navel jelly ) its a pink liquid that you spread over it or spray over it and it dissolves the rust we used this on the roof of my grandads barracuda. Worked pretty good.  ;)

AutoRust

If you can find a local guy that would do some other media blasting, its all you need.
Maybe soda blasting, or bead blasting.
Sandblasting is using sand, or a heavy slag, and will cause warpage. The soda blasting should work perfect for this situation without any problems

:cheers:
Nothing to see here folks, its just a Bluesmobile

OneofNoneRT

Quote from: mally69 on September 30, 2009, 07:45:56 PM
Go down to napa and get a bottle of ( navel jelly ) its a pink liquid that you spread over it or spray over it and it dissolves the rust we used this on the roof of my grandads barracuda. Worked pretty good.  ;)

I agree about a couple hours you will have it looking like new.. leaves a white residue that needs to be removed.  Try not to blast except spot in the pitted areas.. when clean, cover with a thin coat of primer ( I use the Rattle can rust killer that turns to black primer).  this will protect it until you are ready to strip it back and etch prime for paint.. I hate redoing things but stripping primer is easier than removing the surface rust. Use a razor scraper and it peels off clean.. I do not trust that this primer would be sufficient or be a good base for a clear coat job. so I completely remove before laying down etch..
1968 R/T 440/4 Spd (Prototype Factory Sunroof)
2008 R/T 5.7l HEMI (Road & Track)

Sixt8Chrgr

Krud Kutter from Lowes is a good rust remover and Evap or rust. I have used both products on two frame off restorations. I was happy with the results. Evap o rust is at Auto Zone.

69bronzeT5

They're worthless...send them to me and I'll deal with them :whistling: :icon_smile_big: Seriously though, mally69's method works great.
Feature Editor for Mopar Connection Magazine
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1969 Charger: T5 Copper 383 Automatic
1970 Challenger R/T: FC7 Plum Crazy 440 Automatic
1970 GTO: Black 400 Ram Air III 4-Speed
1971 Charger Super Bee: GY3 Citron Yella 440 4-Speed
1972 Charger: FE5 Red 360 Automatic
1973 Charger Rallye: FY1 Top Banana 440 Automatic
1973 Plymouth Road Runner: FE5 Red 440 Automatic
1973 Plymouth Duster: FC7 Plum Crazy 318 Automatic

mally69

If you use that navel jelly it works great but dont let it dry on ya keep it wet, it takes a little to start to dissolve the rust but once it starts it goes quick so if it looks like its gonna dry up on ya just add more to it.  :2thumbs: They will look new when its all done.

Scaregrabber

I would sand them and wipe them with metalprep, except if they've been dipped all those nooks and crannies that you can't reach are going to rust from the inside out.
To do them right you either have to dip them again and somehow get paint in all those nooks and crannies or break down the spot welds, take them apart, clean them, coat them and weld them back together.

Sheldon

oestermarken

Use a big waterproof container, and a 2-4% Citric acid mixture, it will remowe the rust in a couple of days.
I used it to clean the Heater box metal Pieces before plating. http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,52748.0.html

/Brian
69 383 4bbl
White Hat Special
Light Bronze Metallic

Musicman

Evapo-Rust can be found almost anywhere and everywhere... I would pick up a jug and just try it on a small area to see how you like it.