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Peeled BackVinyl Top - This cant be good

Started by jdiesel33, January 22, 2009, 12:19:01 AM

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jdiesel33

Peeled back part of the top just now and here is what I found!!!  :eek2:
What the hell do you do with that? 2 big chunks rusted out on both sides. Can it be fixed?
1968 Dodge Charger R/T
PP1,Black Hat, Black Stripes

Hemidog

That's the bondo seams for the roof-quarter connection, and it doesn't look that bad on the pictures...
Looks like the bondo is falling of after 30+ years, clean the whole seam up, fix the rust, epoxy it, and smooth it out with some new bondo.

tan top

Quote from: Hemidog on January 22, 2009, 05:35:49 AM
That's the bondo seams for the roof-quarter connection, and it doesn't look that bad on the pictures...
Looks like the bondo is falling of after 30+ years, clean the whole seam up, fix the rust, epoxy it, and smooth it out with some new bondo.

:yesnod: 

looks like someone has been busy with a pop rivit gun  on the passanger side ...  :scratchchin: :-\ :popcrn:
Feel free to post any relevant picture you think we all might like to see in the threads below!

Charger Stuff 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,86777.0.html
Chargers in the background where you least expect them 
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C500 & Daytonas & Superbirds
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,95432.0.html
Interesting pictures & Stuff 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,109484.925.html
Old Dodge dealer photos wanted
 http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,120850.0.html

70-500-SE-EXPORT

Usually that seam is filled with lead. That seam was rusted so somebody just covered it with bondo. Bondo chips off in chunks after a long time. You need a FULL quarter. Somebody butchered your car. The quarter panel is held on by pop rivets one one side. Thats what I discovered on my car under vinyl top.
68 Charger original SS1 paint with matching # 383hp

Charger-Bodie

In 68 Most Chargers had that seam filled with lead (vinyl top or not) In 69&70 Only non v/t Chargers got leat and vinyl top cars got seam sealer putty like you see in his pics......

You will need to clean out all of that putty, clean the metal and see what you have.
68 Charger R/t white with black v/t and red tailstripe. 440 4 speed ,black interior
68 383 auto with a/c and power windows. Now 440 4 speed jj1 gold black interior .
My Charger is a hybrid car, it burns gas and rubber............

jdiesel33

Quote from: 70-500-SE-EXPORT on January 22, 2009, 07:24:46 AM
Usually that seam is filled with lead. That seam was rusted so somebody just covered it with bondo. Bondo chips off in chunks after a long time. You need a FULL quarter. Somebody butchered your car. The quarter panel is held on by pop rivets one one side. Thats what I discovered on my car under vinyl top.

Yeah, what up with that? I think my dad bought in '71 or '72. The only accident I know of was to the driver rear 1/4. That one didnt get fixed very well either, but that's another story. I wonder if that is related to the other issue on that quarter. The seam where the top of the 1/4 right under the window trim meets the door jamb part of the 1/4 has become separated. I was just going to get the guy putting in my floors to weld it up. So you think I need a whole new 1/4? Ouch!
1968 Dodge Charger R/T
PP1,Black Hat, Black Stripes

Charger-Bodie

Whats with the pop rivets? did they hold the vinyl down? 

Dig that sealer out in the sail panel seam and see what its like in there! Might not be as bad as you think! That is the factory seam up there.
68 Charger R/t white with black v/t and red tailstripe. 440 4 speed ,black interior
68 383 auto with a/c and power windows. Now 440 4 speed jj1 gold black interior .
My Charger is a hybrid car, it burns gas and rubber............

jdiesel33

Quote from: 1hot68 on January 22, 2009, 11:57:29 AM
Whats with the pop rivets? did they hold the vinyl down? 

Dig that sealer out in the sail panel seam and see what its like in there! Might not be as bad as you think! That is the factory seam up there.

The vinyl was so brittle right there I just tore it off before removing the trim, so I cant say for sure. I guess that would be better than if they were holding the 1/4 panel on. I will investigate further when I get home. That was late last night when I discovered that.

thanks
1968 Dodge Charger R/T
PP1,Black Hat, Black Stripes

superbirdtom

get a full quarter and get that one off there and replace the old one period. i gotta 70 bee with identical problem  just waitin for full 70 coronet full  quarters to come out.

Silver R/T

bondo likes to absorb moisture so no wonder it rusted around it
http://www.cardomain.com/id/mitmaks

1968 silver/black/red striped R/T
My Charger is hybrid, it runs on gas and on tears of ricers
2001 Ram 2500 CTD
1993 Mazda MX-3 GS SE
1995 Ford Cobra SVT#2722

Charger-Bodie

Quote from: superbirdtom on January 22, 2009, 12:25:04 PM
get a full quarter and get that one off there and replace the old one period. i gotta 70 bee with identical problem  just waitin for full 70 coronet full  quarters to come out.

I think he should clean up what hes got before determaing wether its junk or not. Period.
68 Charger R/t white with black v/t and red tailstripe. 440 4 speed ,black interior
68 383 auto with a/c and power windows. Now 440 4 speed jj1 gold black interior .
My Charger is a hybrid car, it burns gas and rubber............

70-500-SE-EXPORT

The entire quarter panel on your car is pop riveted over the old one. You need a full quarter unless he wants pop rivets, bondo and rust. I have a 69 charger parts car. It has a full quarter pop riveted on the car in the early 70's by the dealer. They did not want to drill out the spot welds in rear window channel so they cut it above body line and put new panel over old one. It was pop riveted to the outer wheelhouse, as well as the lower rear quarter and rocker. It was a big hack job done by the chrysler dealer using a New full oem quarter. If this mess was on my car covered with bondo I would replace the entire quarter with a AMD one, since full quarters are finally available in 25 years you should not use a skin.

I DO NOT recommend the poorly designed Classic body designs quarters. I have bought two of them when they were $1700 each. They are CRAP. I have them on my car now. And Im so disgusted in the poor design I want to cut them off and buy AMD. There is MANY fitment problems. I have pics to prove all the ways these do NOT fit correctly.
68 Charger original SS1 paint with matching # 383hp

Hemidog

Weird, I've heard the CBD quarters were slightly better than the AMD ones... :shruggy:

Charger-Bodie

If it is infact a replacement 1/4 riveted on then I agree 100% ...get a new AMD panel....But if those rivets were a cure for a peeling vinyl top Then who knows.....Clean it up and see whats really going on there!!
68 Charger R/t white with black v/t and red tailstripe. 440 4 speed ,black interior
68 383 auto with a/c and power windows. Now 440 4 speed jj1 gold black interior .
My Charger is a hybrid car, it burns gas and rubber............

Doright

While the right side does have what appears to be a pop riveted on quarter panel I wouldn't go tearing it off! But would investigate it further to possibly repair it by tack welding it on properly. Take it by a few restoration shops see what they say.

The roof has the typical vinyl roof damage that is what appears to be the factory seam filler remove filler clean out rust, and cover metal with Epoxy and refill. use good brand type of filler or lead it in your choice but Fillers are easier to work with, And you don't have to worry about warping the metal with all the heat.
Doright
A&P FCC 
I play with cars because Jets are way too serious to be fun any more
I have so many car projects that cars are beginning to be no fun any more

Sublime/Sixpack

1970 Sublime R/T, 440 Six Pack, Four speed, Super Track Pak

AKcharger

Guys, I know many of you are well meaning and I'm all about fixing things right but to swapping out a 1/4 panel ain't' a piece of cake. It's expensive and will most likely take years before that car sees the street again. I'm not sure what ol' diesels plans are, but I suspect he wants to drive that thing this summer. Diesel, unless you have a minimum of $20K and 2 years to do a MAJOR restoration just clean up the rust around the seam and treat it, throw another top on and enjoy your car. Here's what I Guarantee will happen if that 1/4 comes off...Trust me I know from experience:

- Outer wheel well housing bad $119.95
- Trunk extensions bad $189.95
- New Quarter panel $1499
- Rear frame will have a rust hole Fabricate patch
- "Since you're that far might as well fix..."
- New paint job  $1000-8000
- Total -15-20K (low end)

Last word of advice, When I restored my '70 in 2003 I could have made it "perfect" or "drivable"... I picked "drivable."  I did have to take a few short cuts on the rebuild, but it's been 6 years and it's holding up fine. The car has been driven 10K miles to over 15 shows and I LOVED it. Had I selected "perfect" I'd just be another one of the people with an old car in my garage never knowing the satisfaction of getting thumbs up at traffic lights and compements at shows...GET THAT THING ON THE ROAD!
AK






jdiesel33

Thanks for the input. Hmmm...interesting decision. Well, as far as my plans, I didnt really feel like it would be ready next summer, although that would be awesome. There is still so much work to do and so much more time and money to expend. I dont even know what all is wrong with it yet. The floors are being done now, still havent touched the engine yet but will soon, am going to put disc brakes in and take drums out, interior has to be fully replaced, needs full paint job,etc.. I am not looking for it to be Barrett-Jackson quality(would if I had that much cash), but I do want it done right and to be safe and stable. Anyone following my early threads knows that this is the car of my recently deceased father and the car I grew up in, so it a very sentimental project and one that is helping to heal those wounds and is helping me to mourn. I would like to make him very proud of the finished product, but at the same time I need to be realistic about what I can feasibly do. At the same time, I dont want to take any shortcuts that may rear their ugly heads a few years down the road and be twice as expensive to fix as they would be now. I'll get my body guy to take a look and see what condition he thinks the whole 1/4 is in and go from there. I do already have new trunk extensions and the whole things needs a paint job, so those are 2 expenses from the list above that are already accounted for. Thanks again to everyone for the continued support and advice. This site and the great people on here have really been a blessing. I look forward to the time when I can be more of a contributor in answering other people's questions. I have learned a lot so far and there is lots more to go.
1968 Dodge Charger R/T
PP1,Black Hat, Black Stripes

Doright

Quote from: AKcharger on January 24, 2009, 03:02:48 PM
Guys, I know many of you are well meaning and I'm all about fixing things right but to swapping out a 1/4 panel ain't' a piece of cake. It's expensive and will most likely take years before that car sees the street again. I'm not sure what ol' diesels plans are, but I suspect he wants to drive that thing this summer. Diesel, unless you have a minimum of $20K and 2 years to do a MAJOR restoration just clean up the rust around the seam and treat it, throw another top on and enjoy your car. Here's what I Guarantee will happen if that 1/4 comes off...Trust me I know from experience:

- Outer wheel well housing bad $119.95
- Trunk extensions bad $189.95
- New Quarter panel $1499
- Rear frame will have a rust hole Fabricate patch
- "Since you're that far might as well fix..."
- New paint job  $1000-8000
- Total -15-20K (low end)
Last word of advice, When I restored my '70 in 2003 I could have made it "perfect" or "drivable"... I picked "drivable."  I did have to take a few short cuts on the rebuild, but it's been 6 years and it's holding up fine. The car has been driven 10K miles to over 15 shows and I LOVED it. Had I selected "perfect" I'd just be another one of the people with an old car in my garage never knowing the satisfaction of getting thumbs up at traffic lights and compements at shows...GET THAT THING ON THE ROAD!
AK

Well said :2thumbs:

JDiesel33
I too am redoing a car left to me by my late father he was a car guy he had the car since early 80's I too plan to redo it cant get him back but I can redo the car! But My old man was realistic as am I, I am going to do the car right but I am also not going to do it all at once either.
I plan to fix some rust issues paint it and drive it! As far as bringing it up to Barret Jackson levels I would love too but I also know what it takes to do that and I just don't have the cash to throw away on a car to do that.
Most all cars restored and sold on BJ are always money losers a Good restoration costs way more than what any car typically sells for remember that.

What ever you decide good luck with it and happy driving
Doright
A&P FCC 
I play with cars because Jets are way too serious to be fun any more
I have so many car projects that cars are beginning to be no fun any more