Nitrous Users!

[KillerBee1972]

Im looking to buying a nitrous kit , and i was woundering if nitrous makes or breaks the car, makes it better or worse, let me know what you all think!1

[Rolling_Thunder]

depends really - if you are using a conservative 75-125hp shot there is really not much of a danger...   but the engine should be honestly set up for anything more than that...   ring gaps, pistons, ect.

[ronv]

  I have used a 125 shot of nitrous for a long time now. No issues. Just take a few degrees of timing out and use good gas and you are on your way.

[dukeboy320]

Im NOT a fan of nos

[bull]

Im NOT a fan of nos

What about at the dentist?

[500hp_440]

you'll find out when you flip the switch!
Purty engine

[Beer]

I have not sprayed my 402 Stroker yet, I did build it with Nitrous in mind...I have a spare Edelbrock Performer RPM Intake drilled and tapped for 1/8 NPT Direct Port nozzles.



From my LS1 experience Properly set up systems include window switch (most systems recommend activation above 3000 RPM, the window switch will spray at whatever you select for RPM say 3000-6000 RPM). The system needs  to be armed and usually has a Wide Open Throttle Switch.  So there are basically three conditions that need to be met for the system to fire.

1 System Armed
2 Wide Open Throttle
3 RPM within the "Window"


A 100 shot will put a smile on your face, but Nitrous downfalls are filling the bottle for $60 a fill and waiting for the bottle to heat up etc...

Your options include Direct Port or a Carb plate system.  You are looking at a "Wet" System vice a dry (Dry tricks the PCM of modern cars to add fuel through the injectors...) Timing needs to be pulled as well (generally 2-4 degrees per 100 shot), and colder plugs are recommended. 

There are all kinds of safety devices out now, Harris Speed Works has a Window Switch that connects to a Wideband and you can set limits on the AFR.  If you go lean (this is what kills the engine) the Window Switch sees the WB reading and automatically shuts down the Nitrous.

Keep in mind the Nitrous systems are designed around pressures. Bottle pressures are usually 950-1025 PSI and need to be that for proper Air Fuel Ratio.  Your jet size for the Nitrous and fuel is based on the bottle and fuel pressure.  This being said a Bottle heater (or NANO type push system) is used.  Takes about 20 minutes for a cold bottle to heat up on a cold day...

Purge Systems some consider "ricer" but they actually serve a useful function of clearing the air out of the line so the system hits as it should, and on hot summer days you bleed off the excess bottle pressure so you do not run the risk of being lean. 

If your thinking Nitrous I would discuss options with these three vendors I have used these guys (tell em Beer sent ya)  These guys will explain and answer Questions without pushing the sale.
Dynotune Nitrous (Dean or Dave)
Nitrous Outlet (Ray Chris or Dave)
Harris Speed Works (Matt or Mike)

Here are a few pics of my Two Stage Nitrous on my LS1

Wet Plate


Dry Dual Nozzle


Overall


Bottle setup


Control Panel


Gauges




Jim

[superduperbee]

Better Drag Racing through chemistry I always say Now take a deep breath, push the button and relax

[Silver R/T]

^^^^ good setup

[Joshua]

I ran a NOS Cheater on my Charger back when I street raced, ran it with the 175 hp pills.....it was alot of fun.

[Doright]

Beer
Thats a cool set up! Love the gages

This is mine I got it for a boat I was building ended up selling the boat before I finished it, It was almost finished too.

[Beer]

Sweet directport! Those -6 Fuel lines? You were not playing around ! 

If and when I get to the Directport on the Charger it will be a four noid setup, probably go 200 shot max (-6 Mainline) maybe a Standalone at the Charcoal canister location. Plan is Black distro Blocks and maybe Black softline.  My goal is to have two street/track cars; the Vette and the 73 Charger, and run both in the 11.5 class.  The Vette is there now (some minor tune issues, it has a H/C on it as well), the Charger when finished hopefully will be mid/low 13's as is, maybe hi 12's NA if I port the heads and do a cam/carb swap.  11's should come easily on spray, and the lower end is already Forged w/ ARP Bolts. 

Real focus though will be getting the body done and see how far I can get the Charger done this year, while getting some seat time at the track with the other car.

Though now ya got me thinking ditching the charcoal canister and start fabbing up the Standalone and mocking up the directport!

[500hp_440]

Beer
Thats a cool set up! Love the gages

This is mine I got it for a boat I was building ended up selling the boat before I finished it, It was almost finished too.

I want one for my charger 
But I dont think 20 gallons would last but a few minuets

[Beer]

Well, I have inquiries out on direct port nozzles, and I think the charcoal canister area will be a sweet spot for a standalone, I may speed up the process of installing the Nitrous...LOL anyone else need a 73 Standalone fabbed up, be cheaper made in QTY?

Look at that open space by the radiator overflow...