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Rear main seal woes part 2

Started by defiance, December 01, 2008, 05:04:12 PM

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firefighter3931

Quote from: defiance on December 15, 2008, 04:08:19 AM

4 - Now that I've got the crank out and have a good look at the knurling, it's pretty harsh.  Would using a rope seal possibly overcome that problem?  If I can avoid having to cut out that knurling, I'd prefer that route...  But where can you find rope seals anymore?  Everywhere I'm looking sells the two-piece ones...

Thanks for all the advice, it's much appreciated!


Do yourself a favor and have it machined off....otherwise you will be fighting this issue forever and  :brickwall:



Ron
68 Charger R/T "Black Pig" Street/Strip bruiser, 70 Charger R/T 440-6bbl Cruiser. Firecore ignition  authorized dealer ; contact me with your needs

srpntlair1

Also just a note as Ron said, take it to the machinist, if it is an aggressive knurl, it will eat through the rope seal just like the neoprene, if not faster. :Twocents:

defiance

Quote from: firefighter3931 on December 16, 2008, 02:48:29 PM
Quote from: defiance on December 15, 2008, 04:08:19 AM

4 - Now that I've got the crank out and have a good look at the knurling, it's pretty harsh.  Would using a rope seal possibly overcome that problem?  If I can avoid having to cut out that knurling, I'd prefer that route...  But where can you find rope seals anymore?  Everywhere I'm looking sells the two-piece ones...

Thanks for all the advice, it's much appreciated!


Do yourself a favor and have it machined off....otherwise you will be fighting this issue forever and  :brickwall:



Ron

crap.  I can't find a machine shop willing to do that around here (little rock).  called 5 different shops, they all didn't believe the knurling could be a problem, and several said that if I cut the knurling the diameter would be too small to seal now.

The best I got was one that said they'd try to get it to seal, then if they couldn't, they'd take the measurements and if there was enough diameter they'd be willing to try, but only after they were sure nothing else would work.  So I took it to them, since that's the best offer I could find. 

I guess I should just be happy if it seals, but if they don't cut it, I'm always going to worry about it coming back :( .

six-tee-nine

Oh boy,

Never use that machine shop againthey're talking crap for sure. Even from looking at pictures of a good neoprene seal sitting on a crank tells me the that slight differenc in diameter won't make the difference in sealing tight.....

Get rid of the knurling, buy a new Viton kinda seal (like 440 source sells) and make it over with...
Greetings from Belgium, the beer country

NOS is nice, turbo's are neat, but when it comes to Mopars, there's no need to cheat...


defiance

I'd like to, but I can't do the machining myself... 

firefighter3931

Something smells fishy here  :lol: Another member just recieved a 440 source stroker crank directly from them and the knurling was machined off.....obviously they realize that there's a problem.  :yesnod:

Take it to a machineshop that will machine off that rough surface.  :icon_smile_big:



Ron
68 Charger R/T "Black Pig" Street/Strip bruiser, 70 Charger R/T 440-6bbl Cruiser. Firecore ignition  authorized dealer ; contact me with your needs

defiance

Update, it's finally sealing!  The problem was apparently pressurization, as suggested above.  I couldn't get hold of a stock retainer, so I tried 440source, mancini, and mopar performance - all of which had the same problem (although the MP retainer was much slower to leak).  They all three were basically right up against the rear cap.  So, I had the shop take the MP retainer and mill out a channel to allow the oil to drain back into the pan, and boom, instantly fixed. 

As for the knurling?  It's still there.  I really hate to leave it there; I'm worried to death about the leak coming back, and about it eating up my seals, but I couldn't find anyone within an hour's drive of here willing to take it off, and the shop that did this work was willing to stand behind it, so that's the best I could get in my area. 

In any case, though - this is not a problem unique to 440source retainers.  As much of a pain as it was for me, and as consistent as the problem was, I'm surprised more people with aftermarket retainers don't see it. 

62 Max

That's why I don't use aftermarket retainers.Never had an O.E.M. that was installed as per shop manual instructions leak. :scratchchin:

Mick70RR

Glad you sorted it out. My 440 Source crank has the knurling intact and has been leak free for over a year, about 5000 miles and I used a stock retainer.
1970 Road Runner, 505 cid, 4 speed, GV overdrive, 3.91 gears
11.98 @ 117 on street treads

firefighter3931

Quote from: defiance on January 20, 2009, 02:48:58 PM
Update, it's finally sealing!  The problem was apparently pressurization, as suggested above.  I couldn't get hold of a stock retainer, so I tried 440source, mancini, and mopar performance - all of which had the same problem (although the MP retainer was much slower to leak).  They all three were basically right up against the rear cap.  So, I had the shop take the MP retainer and mill out a channel to allow the oil to drain back into the pan, and boom, instantly fixed. 



Thanks for the update and hopefully this solves the leak issues for you. I've allways used stock seal retainers as well and to date haven't had leak issues....knock on wood !  :P



Ron
68 Charger R/T "Black Pig" Street/Strip bruiser, 70 Charger R/T 440-6bbl Cruiser. Firecore ignition  authorized dealer ; contact me with your needs

turbobitt

Quote from: defiance on January 20, 2009, 02:48:58 PM

  As much of a pain as it was for me, and as consistent as the problem was, I'm surprised more people with aftermarket retainers don't see it. 


I think a lot of people do and just live with it...