WHAT TIPS CAN YOU OFFER TO SOMEONE CONSIDERING THE PURCHASE OF A 69 CHARGER ?

[model maker]

 When I was 17 years old, I bought my second car which was a 1968 Dodge Charger and a couple of years after that, I was fortunate enough to aquire a 1969 dodge Charger. this was in 1974 & 1977. both are long gone now and back then were so EASY & affordable I thought they would be around forever. I am now 53 and want another 69 Charger so bad i can taste it !!!! back in the 70's, you didn't have to worry OR even look for the things you do these days when buying a Dodge Charger, since these cars were still new in a way.  fast forward 40 years  & Today is much different and everything has to be looked at closely . what tips can you Dodge Charger owners give me in regards to buying a 1969 Dodge Charger. I plan on getting one some day , not sure when BUT someway, somehow i want to acheive this goal.  when looking and buying a 40 year old car, what lessons did all of you learn OR wished you knew about when you purchased yours ?  what kinds of things, Hidden things do you look for such as rust and rot  for example ? How can you be sure that what the seller tells you is the truth and what kinds of things can be completly hidden and what tricks are common and not so common. What I am looking for when I get ready is a car that can be used daily if i choose to. I want something nice, dependable rust/rot free. I don't care if #s match I want a car that looks great and something i won't be afraid to take out, it doesn't have to be a car show trophy winner just something that is physically, mechanically in good shape, what kinds of modern technology can be put into these cars to make them better than what the factory turned out ? and what parts such as seats, front grilles ( especially the 69 charger) are available today ? in a nutshell, WHAT MUST I WATCHOUT FOR ?
Thanks for your help.
Bert

[69bronzeT5]

Commonly rusted areas include the quarters, trunk and trunk extensions, torsion bar crossmember, floor pans, deck filler panel, rear and front window channels, rear frame rails and rear crossmember.

Expensive parts include the grille, door panels, gauge cluster, woodgrain steering wheel...heck, about every part is expensive.

When it comes to repro parts, stay away from Premier Plastics. They make grilles and taillight lenses but they have screwed over a lot of people. Definitely stay away from HLPAG and their bondoed up Chargers. Obviously stay away from BK Auto too. I've also heard bad things about Texas Toy Box. Don't buy a car off Ebay unless you have seen and inspected it in person.

Check out Auto Metal Direct's website for a list of repro sheetmetal they're making. Also browse around The Paddock's and Yearone's sites.

Regarding modern technology, check out XV Motorsports for sure. Also, do a search on this board for cars like that. Autodynamics (Pete) has a beautiful pro-touring '69 Charger. NYCMILLE (Mike) has a '68 Charger and '69 Daytona Charger pro-tourers.

[68charger383]

I would strongly recommend that you stay far away from the 69s and buy a 68!   



Might help if you try and focus your search on places "less" likely to have major rust problems: CA, AZ, NM, NV then lets say NY, NJ, CT.

[dpm68]

I couldn't possibly offer better advice that Cody, and as I have owned a few of these (68s only though) I agree with what he says.

[gasoline_24]

Very good advise there.  Can't get better than a 68.

[jb666]

Commonly rusted areas include the quarters, trunk and trunk extensions, torsion bar crossmember, floor pans, deck filler panel, rear and front window channels, rear frame rails and rear crossmember.

Expensive parts include the grille, door panels, gauge cluster, woodgrain steering wheel...heck, about every part is expensive.

When it comes to repro parts, stay away from Premier Plastics. They make grilles and taillight lenses but they have screwed over a lot of people. Definitely stay away from HLPAG and their bondoed up Chargers. Obviously stay away from BK Auto too. I've also heard bad things about Texas Toy Box. Don't buy a car off Ebay unless you have seen and inspected it in person.

Check out Auto Metal Direct's website for a list of repro sheetmetal they're making. Also browse around The Paddock's and Yearone's sites.

Regarding modern technology, check out XV Motorsports for sure. Also, do a search on this board for cars like that. Autodynamics (Pete) has a beautiful pro-touring '69 Charger. NYCMILLE (Mike) has a '68 Charger and '69 Daytona Charger pro-tourers.

I couldn't agree more. BK & HLPAG=WARNING, KEEP AWAY!

[Dans 68]

Well, with all the credit to Carl ("OldGuy") here are some things to watch for when scouting that 2nd gen (4-speed) Charger. He was kind enough to help me with this missive when I was buying my '68. Good, common sense knowledge. 

History of Vehicle
Get as much history and paper work on the car that you can from the guy.
Where did he get it (geographical location)/who did he buy it from?
Any known previous owners?
What has he done with it since he got it?
Where and how was it stored?
Has it ever been wrecked?
What work has he done on it?
Pictures when he got it.
Any pictures prior to or during restoration.
Did anyone else do work on it?
If so, check with them to see what they did and what condition the car was in.  Get any documents, receipts, invoices of his expenses.
How much did he pay for it?

Throughout the entire process of looking over the car – always be looking for signs of the number one problem with cars this age – RUST!

Body & Paint

Walk completely around the car and look at/for the following things:

Hood
Does the hood line up and lay level with the fenders, front cowl and grill.
Lift the hood to see if it comes up evenly and doesn't bind on the hinges.  Lower the hood and see if it comes back down in alignment.

Trunk
Does the trunk lid line up and lay flat with the rear quarters, rear deck and tail panel?  Open and close the trunk to see if it latches properly.
Pull back the trunk liner to check the condition of the trunk floor pan.  Are the drip holes plugged, are the seams all properly welded.  Look closely where the rear wheel wells meet the trunk floor.  This is a notorious place for rust and metal decay.
If you feel inclined, from the inside of the trunk look upward to the bottom of the rear window.  Any rust or decay is an indication that the window well is bad or the window seal is leaking.  That will also show up if there is any indication that water is dripping down onto the tops of the rear wheel wells inside the trunk.
Check both the front and rear valances for dents, etc.

The front grill/clip is primarily made of plastic.  Check closely for cracks or missing chunks that could have been broken off.

Open each door to see if it swings straight out and closes easily.  If it sags when opened and doesn't close easily, the door hinges are bad.  The doors should close easily – there is no need to slam them.

Stand back on each side of the car so you can see the entire car from front to rear.  Look for the body line that runs from the front to the rear.  It starts at the front side marker on the fender and runs in a straight line along the fender across the door and along the rear quarter to the back side marker. Then go to the rear of the car and look down the body line at eye level to see if the rear quarter panel, door and front fender are aligned.  If the line isn't distinct or straight, it is an indication that there has been body work on the fender, door or rear quarter.

Check all chrome i.e. window trim, door handles, bumpers, gas cap, drip rails, grill trim, tail panel trim, wheel well trim, etc. for pits, dimples, bends or dings.

Check the vinyl top to see if the overlap lines are straight and symmetrical.
Look for bubbles or tears in the top.
Feel around the top for the roof weld seams to see if they are flat.  The rear seams run diagonally down from just below the top of the back window to just above the bottom of the rear side windows.  The front seams are just below the top on the front door posts.  If they bulge or are indented, there could be problems under the vinyl top.

Paint
Not only can paint hide a lot of things; it can also tell you a lot about the condition of the underlying metal.
Check for overspray, especially inside the engine bay, trunk and undercarriage.  That will be an indication of how professional the paint job is; although, there was a lot of overspray and missed spots in those locations on original paint jobs from the factory.
Look for drips, runs, cracks, chips, scratches, dings and orange peel.  Dark spots in the paint are an indication that water dripped on the paint when it was sprayed.
Examine all seams closely for scaling, bubbles or peeling of the paint – this is an indication of underlying rust.  Critical areas would be around the sail panels, along the bottom of the back window, around the wheel wells, bottoms of the fenders and quarter panels, along the bottom of the rocker panels, etc.


Interior
Check the top dash pad for cracks and tears.
Check to see if the doors lock from both inside and using the key from the outside.
Crank the windows up and down to see if they slide smoothly.  All windows, especially the rear side windows should go down below the window trim.
Open and close the front wing windows.  They should move easily and close tightly against the rubber.
If there is a remote lever for driver's side rear view mirror, move it around to see if the mirror moves.
Slide both bucket seats back and forth to make sure they glide smoothly.
Lift both bucket seat backs to make sure they fall forward evenly.
The head rest should move up and down.
The front seat belt portion on the door side of the seats should pull up to about the middle of your waist and retract (they are the only belts that retract).  The portion on the console side does not retract but comes across and adjusts to fit.  The back seat belts lay flat on the seat.  Fasten the belts to see if they clasp and unlock.
Check the head liner to make sure it is tight all around.
The sun visors should swivel back and forth and up and down.
A critical place to check is the bottom of the rear window around the package tray for water leaks and rust on the inside window trim.
The console tray door should lift up easily and lock in the closed position.
The door panels look pretty good in the photos.
Turn the steering wheel back and forth to see if there is any play in it.  If there is a lot of play, there could be a problem in the steering box.


Undercarriage
Go dressed to get down, underneath and dirty.
Jack the car up and examine the undercarriage.
Use a small hammer, if the owner will let you, to tap around to check for rust (just tap – you don't need to hammer on things)
Tap the frame rails to make sure they are solid.
You probably won't be able to lift the carpet from the inside to check the floor pans but you can check them from underneath.  Tap them.
Tap the exhaust system from front to rear, including the mufflers.  You can also wear a pair of gloves and run your hand along the length of them.  Examine the mufflers for rust around the seams (indication that they are leaking).  Pay particular attention to the pipes from the mufflers back.  They go up over the top of the real axle (if stock) and can rust out on top.  Make sure the tail pipe tips are welded on.
Make sure the rear springs are tight and properly attached.
Check the shocks, front and back for leaks.  Rock the car front and back to see if the shocks stabilize within one bounce.
Make sure all drive train bolts are present and accounted for.
Try to see if the motor mounts are solid and the rubber is in good shape.
Look for leaks and dents around the gas tank.

To be continued...


Dan

[Dans 68]

...continued

Front End
While you have the front end jacked up, grasp the tire front and back and move it side to side to see if there is any play in it.  If there is movement, could be a sign of wear in the steering linkage or front bearings.
Check the ball joints for wear.  There should have signs of grease around the grease fittings and joints indicating proper lubrication.
The sway bar should be tight – looks like the guy replaced it.
Make sure the torsion bars are tight in the frame in the back and tight up front in the lower control arm.
Check the front tires to see how they are wearing.  Could reveal a need for an alignment or replace shocks.
Check the steering linkage to make sure it is tight.  Look for wear on the tie rods.
If possible, pull off a front tire to check the brake pad wear and rotors.
Look for signs of oil and coolant leaks underneath.
When driving – take hands off the steering wheel and see if it goes straight down the road.  Drifting to one side or the other is an indication of a need for a front end alignment.

Engine Bay
Look for signs of oil and/or coolant leaks.
The hood has a pad on the underside.  Look for stains on it.
 
Drive line – rear-end, engine, transmission

Rear-end
There should be a tag bolted on the side of the rear end with the gear ratio noted.
Check for oil leaks around the pumpkin.
The 383 probably has either the 8 -1/4 10 bolt or 9-1/4 12 bolt rear end.  The Dana 60's were pretty much exclusive to the R/T's with 440 or 426 Hemi engines.
Check around the inside of the rear rims for leaks coming from the axle – sign of bad seals.
Jack rear end up and rotate tires back and forth to detect any play in the rear end.
While driving, listen for grinding, whining, clanking, etc. – indications of bad bearings or worn gears in differential.

Engine
Now is the time to start the engine.  Start it when it is cold.  Feel the valve covers, exhaust manifolds, radiator or heads/block to make sure it is cold.
Listen to how it sounds when it starts.
Does the carburetor kick down when it is warmed up?
Does it idle smoothly – depending upon cam?
Listen for tappet/lifter noises
Listen for exhaust leaks around the exhaust manifolds.
Have someone check the exhaust when first started.  Blue smoke – oil burn; black smoke – mixture too rich


Transmission (manual)

The transmission should be an A-833, small drive pinion with 23 splines.
While driving, listen for whining, clanking or grinding in the transmission.
Shift into reverse and drive backwards for a short distance.
Shift through all gears from 1st to 4th moving forward.  Then slow down and down-shift through all gears from 4th to 1st.  The transmission is more likely to come out of gear while downshifting.

Electrical and vacuum

With engine running, now check the electrical system.
Lights
Check to see if all light are working:
Dash and gauge lights – roll dimmer switch up and down on dash
Console lights on each side of console
Overhead light
Turn signals
Check to see if the hood mounted signal lights are working . Parking lights in front valance
Side marker lights both front and rear on both sides
Tail lights
Brake lights
Put in car in reverse and see if reverse lights work – clear plastic light cover above and between the two tail lights on each side.
Turn on the headlights and see if the vacuum system is working to open and close the covers.
With covers open, check low and high beams.  There are two headlights on each side – low beam is one and both are on for high beams.

The headlight cover doors in the grill are the best indicators to see if the vacuum system is working.  If they don't come up or close properly there is a problem.  They both should open and shut simultaneously.  Could be a leaky hose or the canister is not holding pressure.  The vacuum canister is located under the battery tray.

Turn on windshield wipers to see if they work.  Also, check to see if the windshield washers work.

Check to see if the radio works.
All speakers should work.  Turn up volume to check for broken speaker diaphragms - rattles and/or vibration.

Check to see if the heater works.  If the heater squeals, there could be a problem with the fan.


Dan

[1969chargerrtse]

  Wow, what nice people on the site.  That was darn nice of you to list all that Dan.  I read the post and thought, I don't have enough years in my life to explain this question.   Except for the misleading advise about stay away from a 69 and buy a 68, the guys got some great advise. 

[PocketThunder]

Bert, i would seriously give this one a look, if you've got $40,000 to spend.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Cars-Trucks___1969-Dodge-Charger-RT-SE-4-Speed-440-Magnum-Dana-60_W0QQitemZ170292022901QQddnZCarsQ20Q26Q20TrucksQQddiZ2282QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUS_Cars_Trucks?hash=item170292022901&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=72%3A727%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318

[Dans 68]

Bert, i would seriously give this one a look, if you've got $40,000 to spend.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Cars-Trucks___1969-Dodge-Charger-RT-SE-4-Speed-440-Magnum-Dana-60_W0QQitemZ170292022901QQddnZCarsQ20Q26Q20TrucksQQddiZ2282QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUS_Cars_Trucks?hash=item170292022901&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=72%3A727%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318

I agree, it is a nice car for a '69. 

Dan

[moparstuart]

Bert, i would seriously give this one a look, if you've got $40,000 to spend.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Cars-Trucks___1969-Dodge-Charger-RT-SE-4-Speed-440-Magnum-Dana-60_W0QQitemZ170292022901QQddnZCarsQ20Q26Q20TrucksQQddiZ2282QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUS_Cars_Trucks?hash=item170292022901&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=72%3A727%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318

I agree, it is a nice car for a '69. 

Dan

yeah buy a 68 instead  

[69*F5*SE]

By 1969 they worked out all the kinks the 68 model had         or one would assume   

[PocketThunder]

Bert, i would seriously give this one a look, if you've got $40,000 to spend.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Cars-Trucks___1969-Dodge-Charger-RT-SE-4-Speed-440-Magnum-Dana-60_W0QQitemZ170292022901QQddnZCarsQ20Q26Q20TrucksQQddiZ2282QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUS_Cars_Trucks?hash=item170292022901&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=72%3A727%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318

I agree, it is a nice car for a '69. 

Dan

yeah buy a 68 instead  

Oh you guys like us and you know it..     

[Dans 68]

Bert, i would seriously give this one a look, if you've got $40,000 to spend.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Cars-Trucks___1969-Dodge-Charger-RT-SE-4-Speed-440-Magnum-Dana-60_W0QQitemZ170292022901QQddnZCarsQ20Q26Q20TrucksQQddiZ2282QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUS_Cars_Trucks?hash=item170292022901&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=72%3A727%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318

I agree, it is a nice car for a '69. 

Dan

yeah buy a 68 instead  

Oh you guys like us and you know it..     

Well, yeah, we do but you didn't have to tell everyone. 

Dan

[tan top]

Bert, i would seriously give this one a look, if you've got $40,000 to spend.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Cars-Trucks___1969-Dodge-Charger-RT-SE-4-Speed-440-Magnum-Dana-60_W0QQitemZ170292022901QQddnZCarsQ20Q26Q20TrucksQQddiZ2282QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUS_Cars_Trucks?hash=item170292022901&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=72%3A727%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318

yeah    looks good 
anyone looking into buying a Charger .... my advice  join www.dodgecharger.com  Awesome bunch of guys   

[Big Sugar]

Bert, i would seriously give this one a look, if you've got $40,000 to spend.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Cars-Trucks___1969-Dodge-Charger-RT-SE-4-Speed-440-Magnum-Dana-60_W0QQitemZ170292022901QQddnZCarsQ20Q26Q20TrucksQQddiZ2282QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUS_Cars_Trucks?hash=item170292022901&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=72%3A727%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318

yeah    looks good 
anyone looking into buying a Charger .... my advice  join www.dodgecharger.com  Awesome bunch of guys   

Your off too a great start coming here first, First off dig deep down and decide what you really are looking for in a 2nd cen Charger, try to narrow down your field, Engine, performance upgrades ,numbers matching, Serntimental things, Then Start a heavy search, With the internet it's easy to spend ann hour a day literally scouring the continent for exactly what your looking for.
Remember shop with your head and not with your heart don't fall for the first Charger you see, take your time and educate yourself on the markeplace. Tell all your freinds what your looking for you'd be surprised what you can  find a block away from your house.! All of a sudden one will fall on your lap.
Keep an eye out for Auctions !! Right now it's a buyers market and it's going to get even better , Right place at the right time is so important. as soon as you can get your finances in order do it !, you don't want to pass up a good deal not having cash at the ready.
Give youself a hard $$ to stick with and happy hunting.


Good Luck
68's are my favorite but I like 70/71's too, although I'm partial too the 1st gen Chargers !!

Ron

[69charger2002]

i have an extremely nice driver 69 i am considering selling if you're really looking for one. it's my white 69. original 318 car. 383 in it. i'd drive it to california tomorrow without thinking twice. cold a/c too.
shoot me a pm if interested. this is not a for sale ad.

[dkn1997]

Buy a 69.  68 is a bad year of charger...


..then there's more 68's left for us!

[model maker]

THANKS everyone ! Thank you Dans 68  for that very detailed list, That will be very, very helpful to keep handy especially when face to "grille" with a Charger That list is going to get printed up and I will stick to it when i get ready to get my car. there is a 69 R/T SE near me on consignment in an inside showroom, 440 Magnum Tri-power. It is yellow with black Vinyl top, black R/T stripe around the back, auto trans, power windows etc. However, the interior color is saddle tan, with tan carpet , dash  and although the seat pattern is correct, I can feel the holes for the headrests in the seats but the upholstery covers these holes up. the doors close SOLID and the paperwork on the car CLAIMS to have had it stored for 20 PLUS years but who knows. I look very close at body panel gaps and all is good EXCEPT the front grille spaces from left to right and the right ( passenger side ) top of the grille has about a 2 inch wider gap than does the drivers side. The battery was disconnected and i had to leave so I didn't get to start it. I have visited this charger about 5 times in 3 months and the owner of the car dealer says the guy is asking around $50, GRAND. It will be awhile before i can afford a charger but the waiting time will be valuable in researching what i want. I just paid off my 03 GMC sierra 4 X 4 and she still looks new inside & out and I keep it very well maintained and serviced by my GM dealer. It is my "muscle truck"with RAM AIR Hood and lots of extras  Thanks again for all of the help and advice everyone, I appreciate it BIG TIME and I value the advice from each & everyone of you !!!!
Bert

[Arizona Dave]

If you buy a 68, you'll always wish you'd bought a 69 because they are so much cooler & sexier. 
All 68 Chargers want to be 69's when they grow up.

Though, I wouldn't push a 68 out of bed!!

[tan top]

THANKS everyone ! Thank you Dans 68  for that very detailed list, That will be very, very helpful to keep handy especially when face to "grille" with a Charger That list is going to get printed up and I will stick to it when i get ready to get my car. there is a 69 R/T SE near me on consignment in an inside showroom, 440 Magnum Tri-power. It is yellow with black Vinyl top, black R/T stripe around the back, auto trans, power windows etc. However, the interior color is saddle tan, with tan carpet , dash  and although the seat pattern is correct, I can feel the holes for the headrests in the seats but the upholstery covers these holes up. the doors close SOLID and the paperwork on the car CLAIMS to have had it stored for 20 PLUS years but who knows. I look very close at body panel gaps and all is good EXCEPT the front grille spaces from left to right and the right ( passenger side ) top of the grille has about a 2 inch wider gap than does the drivers side. The battery was disconnected and i had to leave so I didn't get to start it. I have visited this charger about 5 times in 3 months and the owner of the car dealer says the guy is asking around $50, GRAND. It will be awhile before i can afford a charger but the waiting time will be valuable in researching what i want. I just paid off my 03 GMC sierra 4 X 4 and she still looks new inside & out and I keep it very well maintained and serviced by my GM dealer. It is my "muscle truck"with RAM AIR Hood and lots of extras  Thanks again for all of the help and advice everyone, I appreciate it BIG TIME and I value the advice from each & everyone of you !!!!
Bert

that sounds a intresting  Charger  ..No head rests  , could be a early car , built 68 ,  headrests were stardard after january 1st 69 ..hmmm yellow , black top , tan interior ..would love to see a picture of the fender ...or car tag    ....   , wonder if it the original color combo   

[model maker]

I too am wondering why the different color combo, seems like a black interior would match better, however, the dash is the same tan. i can feel the headrest holes under the top of the seats, anyway, here is a link to the charger i am speaking of.
Bert
http://vehiclepro.net/supersportmotors/parksell/ACCT_list_dealer_inventory_stock_parksell.php?display=editEntryForm&status=active&id=1219857680.73&from=dealer_inventory&beginningEntry=1

[model maker]

Take a look at the dash in front of the steering wheel. When I sat in the drivers seat, the gauges seemed to lean or canter to the left so that someone looking over your left shoulder would get a straight on view of them. It has been over 30 years since i sat in my Charger and can't seem to remember if the speedo etc faced straight at the driver or cantered toward the left a little. How does this cahrgers dash lookto you guys ?
Bert
http://vehiclepro.net/supersportmotors/parksell/ACCT_list_dealer_inventory_stock_parksell.php?display=editEntryForm&status=active&id=1219857680.73&from=dealer_inventory&beginningEntry=1

[tan top]

hmmm not the original color ... seen this before on the net , looks nice  .... if they are the original outer door handles , they have black buttons ..., explaines no head rests ... SPD ( scheduled production date ) of  late 68 . 
yeah , black interior , who know what they were thinking ,  mine had  a tan vinyl with black interior      ..  did you see the fender tag ?
dash looks ok ... but has it been put together ok ..as i see  screw missing  &  centre pad coming loose ..no biggie , but i would be wondering 
has a rare 3 speaker dash also 

[model maker]

The next time I go by there i will take my camera, the front end looks good in the pictures but when you squat down and look at it, the gaps are bigger on the passenger side and the top of the grille on that side sags a little. I will take better pictures of it.

[tan top]

The next time I go by there i will take my camera, the front end looks good in the pictures but when you squat down and look at it, the gaps are bigger on the passenger side and the top of the grille on that side sags a little. I will take better pictures of it.

oh right  ok .... well  have a look ... at your pictures then , can't wait to see them  Bert     ... i will say one thing though , the old mopars we all love , had rubbish panel alignment , from the factory ... i wish i had taken pictures before i striped mine down ,  it was all original panels , & never had a wreck 63k mile car  .   the door gaps were all over the show 1/4 " at the top to nearly touching at the bottom , fenders to cowl to hood    like i say car was straight & never wrecked .... spent hours & hours aligning   before paint , could never get it how i wanted , but  close enough & looked real good  , found out mine was built on a friday    could be the reason  , only joking . , but compare the  panel fit on todays cars  ,  our mopars factory gaps / alignment are like from the stone age

[model maker]

I know what you mean, the gaps on both of my chargers doors were perfect at the top and almost touching at the bottoms. It was a real headache on my 68 when i tried to line up the passenger door, i got the gaps really messed up and was glad to just get it back to where it was. The charger at the place i am looking looks like the sagging grille shell could use a screw to hold it in place, in fact, there is an empty screw hole in fender/hood panel that looks like a clip should be there. the grille shell moves easily upwards to cover that spot and may be just missing a clip. It is a beautiful car when i sit in it. when i go back there i will open the hood/trunk and take some pictures of the vitals. Like I said, the doors close very solid and the gaps on the car look to be much more even that my 68 or 69 ever were.

[six-tee-nine]

Damn, you can really feel the jealousy pouring out of the 68 guys....

[moparstuart]

Damn, you can really feel the jealousy pouring out of the 68 guys....

I only own 69's but I still know 68's are the best 

[Green71R/T]

Make sure you get a good look under the car for rust that may be hidden by undercoating or fiberglass.Check out jb666 thread to show what a coat of paint can hide.Fifty grand is a lot of money so inspect carefully.I do not know how to link to another thread but i am sure you can find it easily as it receives updates daily of the beautiful job they are doing to repair the mess.

[model maker]

I saw and saved a guys story about a mustang he bought site unseen except photographs and the fraud the seller committed and who is now in hiding. it was a red mustang convertable that the guy paid 18 GRAND for and it started disintegrating right before his eyes as it rolled off of the trailer when it was delivered to him. It is a lesson to be remembered. I have the link to the story if anyone would like to read it.
Bert

[nakita7]

By 1969 they worked out all the kinks the 68 model had         or one would assume   

This is sound advise. Some people even have to ask me why 3rd gens are better than 2nd gens...

[model maker]

OK, Today I went to see the charger again and took 75 pictures of it inside and out, fender tag also. i took some by placing the camera UNDER the dash and letting the flash light things up under there to see what that area looks like.

[model maker]

Here is what can happen and does more often than we think, we just have to be VERY CAREFUL !!
http://www.nevadaclassics.com/images/Stories/Skip%20Novakovich.htm

[teamroth]

Well we already had that happen to a few guys here, namely JB, he got it almost as bad as this guy, maybe worse.

[autodynamics]

dont buy one from bk auto or hlpg

[model maker]

I think when someone gets caught ripping off buyers, they should be exposed and brought to swift justice and should be made an example of !

[Bobs69]

Here is a tip.  I'm 35, own a 69 charger for 15 years now, maybe.  I haven't driven one yet, but I haven't felt this passionate about a car since I was in highschool.  Really making me think about what I'm doing with the 69............don't want to make and quick decisions.........anyhow.

[model maker]

I had 2 chargers in the 1970's . my 68 I had in high school and my 69 a few years later. I am 53 now and really want another charger and although back in the 70's they were a dime a dozen and so easy to come by i regret not keeping one of mine, as they say, " if I would have known"

[Red Ram]

Tri-power?  

[Dodge Don]

By 1969 they worked out all the kinks the 68 model had         or one would assume   

And by 70 they perfected it.

[BB1]

Alright I see what's going on...

BUY the NEW 1968 Dodge Charger, #1 for 2 gens

[moparstuart]

Alright I see what's going on...

BUY the NEW 1968 Dodge Charger, #1 for 2 gens

  yes 68

[model maker]

I have been looking at this 69 and took a lot of pictures. I held the camera up behing the dash on the drivers side and let the flash light it up and saw RUSTY metal. maybe the windshield leaked OR leaks. I took pics of the VIN # & fender tag. I need to send these to someone here who can then post them for me. I tried and they will not post from my end.

[gtx6970]

2 things,
don't buy rust
buy the best car you can afford if your looking for turnkey or the most complete project you can afford.
and most of all, try to NOT buy anything without looking at if first

And as far as how to insure they seller is telling the truth??? , you can't.
you'll  have to trust your own judgement on this .

[426HemiCharger]

don't buy from HLPAG or BK Auto

[model maker]

Sounds like those 2 you mentioned have misrepresented their stuff or just ripped off trusting people who saved a long time to get the car of their dreams. What action has been taken against them ? Thanks for the heads up, people who do this kind of stuff need to be stopped.

[68 CHARGER R/T]

Alright I see what's going on...

BUY the NEW 1968 Dodge Charger, #1 for 2 gens

  yes 68

very good. look so much tougher when going pro street route       

[Dans 68]

Here are the photos Model Maker sent me for re-sizing....

Set 1

[Dans 68]

...Set 2...

[Dans 68]

...and Set 3. More to follow.

Dan

[Finn]

Never saw a full length cloth lining under the hood like that before...
That hood/grille/valance alignment needs some work also.

[Red Ram]

I'd want a little more perfection for 50K.

[model maker]

I Agree ! I sent Dans 68 some of the rust my camera flash found up inside the dash behind the instrument cluster. I think there was some front end damage at some time becuase i see yellow paint overspray at the bottom of the radiator support and the grille is uneven side to side and top to bottom on the passenger side. The instrument cluster seems to lean or canter toward the left and made me feel like i had to lean to the left a little to see the speedo  gauges  straight on. i think $50 K is a lot. I don't know how bad the rust inside the dash is but when Dan posts those ones then you can see what i mean. probably had OR has a windshield leak.

[tan top]

  ..i see originaly a Y2 car with a tan top ..

[Dodge Don]

No way that car is worth anywhere near $50k. Maybe $20k

[model maker]

Dans 68, Can you post the pictures i sent of what the area behind the dash looks like with the corrosion? This car is inside a showroom on consignment and would have to be a huge deal in order to see how it drove. I don't think they will let anyone do that without some kind of security deposit. The front end just makes me think it had some body work done. Maybe a carfax check would tell. I agree on the $50 grand being too much.

[Dans 68]

Set 4....

[Dans 68]

Set 5...

[Dans 68]

Last photo.

[tan top]

  most chargers i have seen ..have had rust there in various states ... as the factory primer dip did not go that far up .  if all the rest of the car checks out , no biggie removing the dash , part of the interior &  wire brushing it up & applying rust dissolver etc . then you can go through all the electrics & replace if necessary , before it goes back            togeather
i see its got the rare 3 speaker dash also

[model maker]

Thanks Dans68, the car is nice but i wonder if there was any front end damage because the grille gaps and yellow paint over spray at the bottom of the radiator support. The bucket seats have the holes for the headrests under the fabric so i am not sure that is the original seat upholstery. I haven't been able to speak to the owner, just the consignment people who own the showroom and they are not sure of the facts.

[tan top]

the front seat covers's are not the original ones , as they should have a leather face   ..correct color though Tan ..code on tag CRT
  all 68 & 69 seat frames have holes for head rests ,    i see that charger has a SPD scheduled production date of C12  i think can't make out if it is a two on the tag , but that means a date of December the 12 th  1968 ... headrests were optional then ....standard for cars built from January 69 ,
the code on that list in the picture says C51 headrests , its wrong ! code for headrest package is  C31  , could be a error , can't find the C51 code 

[model maker]

When I sat in it, i could tell the upholstery was aftermarket stuff. It doesn't have "that" charger smell that is common in all of the chargers that I remember. Back when i had both of my chargers you could be blindfolded and sit inside a charger and know you were in a mopar car.

[green69rt]

I have to say I bought a car that I suspect has been in a front end collision that was not revieled when I bought it.  Here are some clues.

Look at the bolt up of the front fender to the inner fender, a lot of shims may mean the front end is not square.
Look at the brace between the lower radiator brace and the bumper cross member.  Does this look square and is everything lined up.
Look at the bumper brackets, they should be mirror images of each other.
Look inside the wheel wells.  The sheet metal between the fender and the inner fender should be smooth and straight, no kinks!

Finally, remember that these are 40 year old cars.  Lots of things happen.  Protect yourself as best you can and then don't look back.