Heater valve functions

[Hemidog]

Just rebuilt my heater control valve, and I'm noticing that the valve doesn't close when I pull on the control lever, is it suppose to be like that? Is it suppose to close some other way?

Hopefully someone here has done one of these rebuilds, and know how this thing functions.

[Chatt69chgr]

I am not really sure how it's supposed to work either but:

The guy in california that rebuilds them said that even if the copper capillary tube was no good that the valve would still operate  as a valve.  So I would assume that means that the Bowden cable going to it from the dash really should make it open and close.  Of course, the "valve" is inside the copper tube inside the engine compartment.  And to the best of my knowledge, the rubber piston contained in it and ultimately controlled by the Bowden cable is not available as a replacement part-----the guy in california had a supply of them he got years ago.  The only part I was aware of that was available was the gasket between the copper pipe assembly and the metal firewall plate--from NAPA-- (when it fails, coolant ends up on and under the carpet on the passenger side).  I was thinking that if the plunger was stuck in the copper pipe, then the operating cable would not be able to move it.  Note that the heater control valve was never intended to be rebuilt----since you have to bend the copper lugs back to get the pipe assembly off the firewall plate you get about one or at most two shots at this before the lugs break off. 

I'am guessing, but I get the idea that the capillary tube that goes to the inside of the heater box was meant to "modulate" the heater valve and keep the heated air coming from the heater box at a particular temperature depending on where the heat control slider is positioned. 

All of this may be discussed in the factory manual for all I know.

If any on here really does understand how these blasted things work, I would also be interested in hearing the explanation.

[Hemidog]

I've changed the rubber piston, that and the rubber seal is available here:
https://www.americanautos.com.au/cgi-bin/fccgi.exe?w3exec=aap.control&session=1494784079128149&formname=search&newform=product&option=RSP335


I can push the plunger freely by pushing a pen inside the tube, and seal it, but it doesnt look like the wire can move it that much.

[Hemidog]

Btw, here's a couple of good sites on how to rebuild it, not the same model, but the pieces are basically the same.
http://www.studebaker-info.org/tech/Ranco/rancotb/rancotb.html
http://www.packardinfo.com/xoops/html/downloads/HOW-TO%20Ranco%20Valve%20Seal%20Replacement.pdf

I would also be interested on how that copper capillary tube works...

[Chatt69chgr]

I've never seen the kit offered by the Australia company.  It includes the plunger that the NAPA kit doesn't include.  I sent an e-mail to them asking if they can sell to me in the USA and the cost.  Also asked if they knew if the part was available in the USA.  If I get a reply from them I will share the info.

[Hemidog]

I don't think it's available in the US, the shipping charge from Australia to Norway was about $13. Had to buy 3 kits, as the minimum shopping limit is $30.
The new rubber plunger is way better than my old one, that one felt like hard plastic.

[nh_mopar_fan]

This is on my list for spring. My valve is frozen closed, I'm pretty sure. No heat at all. Not a huge deal for me since the car doesn;t see winter but there are some spring/fall days where it'd be nice to have a little heat. Of coiurse, it froze because it's never used....

Unfortunately for me, the cable is now bent since someone tried to force it. I have extra cables so that's not an issue. I was hoping to free up the valve by hand.

Advice anyone?

Oh, yeah this is a 1st gen, 67.

[tan top]

I don't think it's available in the US, the shipping charge from Australia to Norway was about $13. Had to buy 3 kits, as the minimum shopping limit is $30.
The new rubber plunger is way better than my old one, that one felt like hard plastic.

I've changed the rubber piston, that and the rubber seal is available here:
https://www.americanautos.com.au/cgi-bin/fccgi.exe?w3exec=aap.control&session=1494784079128149&formname=search&newform=product&option=RSP335


I can push the plunger freely by pushing a pen inside the tube, and seal it, but it doesnt look like the wire can move it that much.

hmmm intresting  , want to rebuild mine  & put it back on , ..could not get on their web site , says need log in & pass word 

[Hemidog]

I don't think it's available in the US, the shipping charge from Australia to Norway was about $13. Had to buy 3 kits, as the minimum shopping limit is $30.
The new rubber plunger is way better than my old one, that one felt like hard plastic.

I've changed the rubber piston, that and the rubber seal is available here:
https://www.americanautos.com.au/cgi-bin/fccgi.exe?w3exec=aap.control&session=1494784079128149&formname=search&newform=product&option=RSP335


I can push the plunger freely by pushing a pen inside the tube, and seal it, but it doesnt look like the wire can move it that much.

hmmm intresting  , want to rebuild mine  & put it back on , ..could not get on their web site , says need log in & pass word 

Sorry, try https://www.americanautos.com.au/secure.html and type "RSP335" in "product search".

[Hemidog]

This is on my list for spring. My valve is frozen closed, I'm pretty sure. No heat at all. Not a huge deal for me since the car doesn;t see winter but there are some spring/fall days where it'd be nice to have a little heat. Of coiurse, it froze because it's never used....

Unfortunately for me, the cable is now bent since someone tried to force it. I have extra cables so that's not an issue. I was hoping to free up the valve by hand.

Advice anyone?

Oh, yeah this is a 1st gen, 67.

My cable was bent aswell, but I bent it back, and used wd-40 until the cable moved freely inside the tube again.
How does the heater valve look like on a 1st gen? like the one above?

[tan top]

I don't think it's available in the US, the shipping charge from Australia to Norway was about $13. Had to buy 3 kits, as the minimum shopping limit is $30.
The new rubber plunger is way better than my old one, that one felt like hard plastic.

I've changed the rubber piston, that and the rubber seal is available here:
https://www.americanautos.com.au/cgi-bin/fccgi.exe?w3exec=aap.control&session=1494784079128149&formname=search&newform=product&option=RSP335


I can push the plunger freely by pushing a pen inside the tube, and seal it, but it doesnt look like the wire can move it that much.

hmmm intresting  , want to rebuild mine  & put it back on , ..could not get on their web site , says need log in & pass word 

Sorry, try https://www.americanautos.com.au/secure.html and type "RSP335" in "product search".

thanks dude 

[peepsrock]

This is on my list for spring. My valve is frozen closed, I'm pretty sure. No heat at all. Not a huge deal for me since the car doesn;t see winter but there are some spring/fall days where it'd be nice to have a little heat. Of coiurse, it froze because it's never used....

Unfortunately for me, the cable is now bent since someone tried to force it. I have extra cables so that's not an issue. I was hoping to free up the valve by hand.

Advice anyone?

Oh, yeah this is a 1st gen, 67.

You can buy a rebuilt heater control valve from Old Air Products in Ft. Worth, TX, www.oldairproducts.com.  Part number for the 66-67 version (with air) is 25-4665.  You can then send in your old valve to get a refund on the core charge.

[tan top]

This is on my list for spring. My valve is frozen closed, I'm pretty sure. No heat at all. Not a huge deal for me since the car doesn;t see winter but there are some spring/fall days where it'd be nice to have a little heat. Of coiurse, it froze because it's never used....

Unfortunately for me, the cable is now bent since someone tried to force it. I have extra cables so that's not an issue. I was hoping to free up the valve by hand.

Advice anyone?

Oh, yeah this is a 1st gen, 67.

You can buy a rebuilt heater control valve from Old Air Products in Ft. Worth, TX, www.oldairproducts.com.  Part number for the 66-67 version (with air) is 25-4665.  You can then send in your old valve to get a refund on the core charge.

thats looks a good place also      , just looked up their address ,  they are only about 5 miles south , from where my charger was sold  new
small world eh

[Chatt69chgr]

I talked to those folks at Old Air Products when I had my valve rebuilt.  They confided to me that they didn't have the plunger and couldn't get it.  They only replace the seal.  That could have changed. 

[nh_mopar_fan]

Awesome. Thanks guys.

I have no idea what it looks like yet. I noticed no heat when I took it out to fill the tank for the winter and decided to wait until spring to look at it.