Breaking in a new cam

[Moparbob]

T-48 hours and counting till launch.

Tonight I rigged me up a drive to remotely prime the oil pump. After spinning a bit we achieved awesome pressure and the motor is primed  No all I'm waiting for is an intake I bought off a guy on ebay on the 23 of DEC to show. He is being a bit of a buthole saying he shipped it Monday. If it doesn't get here tomorrow I will Field a complaint against him.

So, if the intake shows up were planing on a Tuesday fire up,, now on to the questions. Ron said fire it up and run it at 250 for 25 minutes to break in the cam. What I'm wondering is how much "adjustment" time do I have to fiddle around making sure there are no leaks, overheating noises ect before the 2500 RPM break in. What if it heats up or I have to shut it down before the time is up? Wanting to solve all potential problems before they arrive.

Thanks!

bOb

Oh, BTW,, who forgot to tell me to put the starter in before the headers? h yea and the think about lining up the flex plate too.

[Sublime/Sixpack]

If it starts to overheat, its best to shut it down. Better to do that than to damage a piston or cylinder wall.  Let it cool down a bit while you're looking for the reason it overheated.  On restart bring the RPM's right back up so the cam gets the oil it needs.

[Ghoste]

Oh, BTW,, who forgot to tell me to put the starter in before the headers? h yea and the think about lining up the flex plate too.

We all caught that Bob but we had secretly decided behind your back that it'd be a real funny rite of passage thing to let you discover it the hard way. 

[Moparbob]

Oh, BTW,, who forgot to tell me to put the starter in before the headers? h yea and the think about lining up the flex plate too.

We all caught that Bob but we had secretly decided behind your back that it'd be a real funny rite of passage thing to let you discover it the hard way. 

Thanks pal 

[Moparbob]

If it starts to overheat, its best to shut it down. Better to do that than to damage a piston or cylinder wall.  Let it cool down a bit while you're looking for the reason it overheated.  On restart bring the RPM's right back up so the cam gets the oil it needs.

So how long do I have to "adjust" and check before starting the break in??

[firefighter3931]

Oh Ya, don't install the headers before the starter  


Bob, as soon as it fires bump the engine speed to 2500 and adjust the timing to 30* (at least) to keep the engine cool during the cam breakin. If you have a large fan you can place it in front of the rad to help with cooling the engine during the breakin of the new cam. Being that this is a used engine it should be looser than a fresh rebuild so it won't generate too much heat unless there is an issue with the cooling system.

Once a minute or so blip the throttle to help promote lifter rotation.

Let us know how it goes.  


Ron

[Moparbob]

Oh Ya, don't install the headers before the starter  


Bob, as soon as it fires bump the engine speed to 2500 and adjust the timing to 30* (at least) to keep the engine cool during the cam breakin. If you have a large fan you can place it in front of the rad to help with cooling the engine during the breakin of the new cam. Being that this is a used engine it should be looser than a fresh rebuild so it won't generate too much heat unless there is an issue with the cooling system.

Once a minute or so blip the throttle to help promote lifter rotation.

Let us know how it goes.  


Ron

Sounds like get er done, no fooling around 

[maxwellwedge]

I would prime the oil pump again (just before you fire it) if that intake does not show up for a while. What kind of oil are you using? I always use something like Joe Gibbs Break-In oil....It has a ton of zinc phosphate in it - way more than Rotella. All new oil does not have anywhere near enough and is very hard on new cams (I assume we are talking flat tappet).
Good Luck  

[Moparbob]

Rotella Diesel for now with a ton of break in oil/grease ect. Its gonna rock

Ive updated some of the engine pics on the site too: http://www.moparbob.com/

[maxwellwedge]

Yup - You should be good with that.

[flyinlow]

How I did it.  ( no I'm not O.J.)


Install a known good carb on engine ,fill with gas with a squeeze bottle.

Gas in tank.

Cooling system full and burped. Take upper hose off in necessary and push thermostat down with a punch to remove air.

large fan to help air flow thru radiator.

timing light hooked up.

exhaust hooked up so you can hear engine

fluid in trans. at least 6 qts.

fire extinguisher.

helper (wife's don't count)

Warm straight 30 weight oil in tub of hot water. put in engine with cam break in lube.

Open garage

Car should be able to be rolled out of garage in an emergency. (fire)


reread camshaft break in procedure

start engine:

check for oil pressure

check for big leaks

hold engine at 2000-2500 rpm set timing at 30-35 btdc without vacuum advance (follow cam manufactures procedure if different)

maintain 2000Rpms + for 20-30 minutes

monitor oil pressure and engine temp. might run alittle warmer than normal, not hot

ruturn to idle

set timing and idle speed

shut off engine

change oil

If no big problems : Take shower ,open bottle of  Crown Royal

Your done!   ,


If bad noise ,overheat ,low oil pressure, shut off ,fix

[Runner]

i like to start a new motor with the radiator cap off and keep an eye on the fluid level for a while before i put it on,  have extra handy.   have a hose handy as well just incase something goes wrong. keep a very close eye on water temp and oil pressure. if it gets hot shut it down , let it cool off before going after it again.   i like to get it started and get it up to rpm as soon as possible, a quick check for leaks then set the timing. then i i set back and watch water temp oil pressure, check for leaks and coolant level.     good luck and have fun!



  my wife is the only helper i care to have in my shop with me when i start a new motor. ive found that most people just get in my way.

[Steve P.]

All very good advise. I would add also that I check and double check all fluids, nuts, bolts, clamps and clearance. No loose rags that can be sucked into the card or blown down into a header. No tools left where they can be shaken down to the fan blades. 

I use a pressure tester to pump up the cooling system and check for cold leaks.

Large fan for additional cooling in front of the rad.

Allllllllways leave the hood off so it's not in your way or so it doesn't get burned in case of a massive backfire or FIRE. 

A fire extinguisher or two.

Floor dry in case of an oil leak...

I also use a metal tray under the car to contain any potential leaks. (It's from an A/C attic unit).. Works great..

I also like the idea of having the rear tires OFF THE GROUND. Just in case.....


Safety is your biggest issue.