My first car (re-named from my parents....)

[Finn]

Can you take a picture of how you cut that out?

[Tilar]

please, try not to screw up a nice car.

It's happening

Ryan, Before you go any further, I'll make you a deal. If all you're wanting is something that runs good and makes people look at you, I'll make you a trade and I'll even come to Florida to make that trade. I have a 2003 Crown Vic Police Interceptor with 85k actual miles on it. I'll trade you even up my car for yours and everything that goes with it.

It's a true police interceptor with some nice options. 200-amp alternator, Fail-safe engine cooling system, Heavy-duty suspension and frame, Stainless steel dual exhaust, 3.27 Locker rear differential, Speed-sensitive variable-assist power rack-and-pinion steering (Handles really good)  and the list goes on.

All you gotta do is get in and start it. When you mash on the gas pedal it knows exactly what you want to do and it does it really well. And I can assure you that you will see more cars do nose dives in the first hour of driving it than you have seen in your entire life. 

Thow in a 69 daytona and you've got a deal

Haha, Dream on kiddo. 

[Rolling_Thunder]

Dont Half-Ass stuff man - do it the right way - I started my car at 15 and here I am at 22 redoing it....      again....      enough said...   

[captnsim]

Hey "dude" don't fix those vent stacks right and say hello to no air flow,(Hello your from Florida) and a leaking mess not to long after you get your car done. Do you really want to pull your dash apart again? And what if the repair means removing the dash? Keep in mind this requires taking out the windshield...which is hard enough to get sealed on it's own. Just my  but I'd fix it the right way. Whats a little more when you look at the scope of redoing a old mopar???

[500hp_440]

Hey "dude" plug those vent stacks and say hello to no air flow,(Hello your from Florida) and a leaking mess not to long after you get your car done. Do you really want to pull your dash apart again? And what if the repair means removing the dash? Keep in mind this requires taking out the windshield...which is hard enough to get sealed on it's own. Just my  but I'd fix it the right way. Whats a little more when you look at the scope of redoing a old mopar???

Dude, I'm not plugging them

[captnsim]

Sorry  ...changed my post to clarify...

[500hp_440]

please, try not to screw up a nice car.

It's happening

Ryan, Before you go any further, I'll make you a deal. If all you're wanting is something that runs good and makes people look at you, I'll make you a trade and I'll even come to Florida to make that trade. I have a 2003 Crown Vic Police Interceptor with 85k actual miles on it. I'll trade you even up my car for yours and everything that goes with it.

It's a true police interceptor with some nice options. 200-amp alternator, Fail-safe engine cooling system, Heavy-duty suspension and frame, Stainless steel dual exhaust, 3.27 Locker rear differential, Speed-sensitive variable-assist power rack-and-pinion steering (Handles really good)  and the list goes on.

All you gotta do is get in and start it. When you mash on the gas pedal it knows exactly what you want to do and it does it really well. And I can assure you that you will see more cars do nose dives in the first hour of driving it than you have seen in your entire life. 

Thow in a 69 daytona and you've got a deal

Haha, Dream on kiddo. 

You asked, if you want it theres the price tag
Also don't ever buy used police stuff, they treat it like crap, trust me, I've watched them do it alot.

[500hp_440]

Ok here's what's up now, my freind, also my mechanic who helped me come up with this idea, said the body man at the chevvy dealer, where he works, said that bthey used to use fiberglass to patch them and that the whay I'm doing it is the BEST way todo it, no wya to get to them with out unwelding the whole box thing which is 100% never worth it and this guy has been a body guy for over 40 years and still is. That blows any doubt it my mind out of the water, I'm done talking about the stacks now.

Someone! Please tell me how to keep the inside of the box thing where the stacks go inside of from rusting!

[captnsim]

Are you talking about the cowl area?? Long term rusting?? Or surface rusting from sitting while you work on it??

[500hp_440]

Are you talking about the cowl area?? Long term rusting?? Or surface rusting from sitting while you work on it??

Yes and I dont want it to rust ever, so long term

[Troy]

Ok here's what's up now, my freind, also my mechanic who helped me come up with this idea, said the body man at the chevvy dealer, where he works, said that bthey used to use fiberglass to patch them and that the whay I'm doing it is the BEST way todo it, no wya to get to them with out unwelding the whole box thing which is 100% never worth it and this guy has been a body guy for over 40 years and still is. That blows any doubt it my mind out of the water, I'm done talking about the stacks now.

Someone! Please tell me how to keep the inside of the box thing where the stacks go inside of from rusting!

Hey, if you're gonna ignore everything we say and tell us you're "done talking about it" then go ask your buddy how to seal the stupid thing. He's obviously got it all figured out.

Maybe I should take this time to point out that there's a difference between a "body man" (usually quick turnaround collision) and a "restorer". Sounds like your friend is saying it's "never worth it" because it's too much work to make a profit on. Besides, Fords and Mopars are a lot closer in construction than any GM from the same era. Ford guys change those stacks out all the time.

Troy

[69bronzeT5]

Just a question, why do you even bother asking us questions if you go with what your "mechanic" says almost everytime.

[rav440]

Ok here's what's up now, my freind, also my mechanic who helped me come up with this idea, said the body man at the chevvy dealer, where he works, said that bthey used to use fiberglass to patch them and that the whay I'm doing it is the BEST way todo it, no wya to get to them with out unwelding the whole box thing which is 100% never worth it and this guy has been a body guy for over 40 years and still is. That blows any doubt it my mind out of the water, I'm done talking about the stacks now.

Someone! Please tell me how to keep the inside of the box thing where the stacks go inside of from rusting!

Hey, if you're gonna ignore everything we say and tell us you're "done talking about it" then go ask your buddy how to seal the stupid thing. He's obviously got it all figured out.

Maybe I should take this time to point out that there's a difference between a "body man" (usually quick turnaround collision) and a "restorer". Sounds like your friend is saying it's "never worth it" because it's too much work to make a profit on. Besides, Fords and Mopars are a lot closer in construction than any GM from the same era. Ford guys change those stacks out all the time.

Troy

i was thinking the same thing .

RYAN , nothing aginst your friend how many MOPARs or CHARGERs has he done work on ? GM cars are a complete differant animal .  listen to TROY and the others . there is the right way and the $$$$ way . the right way may sound like alot now but in the long run a hell of alot cheaper in the end .

[500hp_440]

Again what I was told I have todo is cut the crap out of the front of the car which is moronic for a little insignificant thing no will see the I could just do with fiberglass or seal shut, I'm in Florida and I don't use A/C, replaceing little stuff like that and haveing someone else do it is why project car budgets get blown.
Unless someone can do all this, tell me how to make it so everyone is happy, I dont have to ruin my car and where I can get those for cheap (it's free now) I don't what to hear ideas about how you think it should be done.
This is the final time I am saying it.

[rav440]

Again what I was told I have todo is cut the crap out of the front of the car which is moronic for a little insignificant thing no will see the I could just do with fiberglass or seal shut, I'm in Florida and I don't use A/C, replaceing little stuff like that and haveing someone else do it is why project car budgets get blown.
Unless someone can do all this, tell me how to make it so everyone is happy, I dont have to ruin my car and where I can get those for cheap (it's free now) I don't what to hear ideas about how you think it should be done.
This is the final time I am saying it.

[captnsim]

Cowl rot is mostly caused by improper storage...ie stuff like leaves or needles fall in the fresh air intake vent and build up around the stacks, (dirt to) trapping moisture and causing rust. After you "fix" that area have your man prime and paint to his liking and seal with what ever he likes. Then keep the car garaged when not in use or covered with a car cover. Oh and avoid the rain...Old cars and water don't mix...gets in all the crevices no matter what...and stays.  

[The70RT]

Blasting will remove some of the rust but it is hard to get to. Cut the circles out and make new ones. It isn't as hard as you think. Welding will be the fun part upsidedown & laying in there. Too bad it wasn't on a rotissorie for that job.

[captnsim]

  upside down welding, fun stuff...but not that bad. Making a new ring is simple to...well worth the effort. Once you have the old ring removed, it will be easier to clean up any pitting and surface rust. But you need to get it all or it will return...

[FLG]

How about this,

If cant afford to do it the right way, you just dont do anything until you can?? Move on to some other aspect of the car....im sure thats not the only thing keeping you away from finishing this project.

Just my 2 cents.

[72SE]

Ok here's what's up now, my freind, also my mechanic who helped me come up with this idea, said the body man at the chevvy dealer, where he works, said that bthey used to use fiberglass to patch them and that the whay I'm doing it is the BEST way todo it, no wya to get to them with out unwelding the whole box thing which is 100% never worth it and this guy has been a body guy for over 40 years and still is. That blows any doubt it my mind out of the water, I'm done talking about the stacks now.

Someone! Please tell me how to keep the inside of the box thing where the stacks go inside of from rusting!

Hey, if you're gonna ignore everything we say and tell us you're "done talking about it" then go ask your buddy how to seal the stupid thing. He's obviously got it all figured out.

Maybe I should take this time to point out that there's a difference between a "body man" (usually quick turnaround collision) and a "restorer". Sounds like your friend is saying it's "never worth it" because it's too much work to make a profit on. Besides, Fords and Mopars are a lot closer in construction than any GM from the same era. Ford guys change those stacks out all the time.

Troy

Again what I was told I have todo is cut the crap out of the front of the car which is moronic for a little insignificant thing no will see the I could just do with fiberglass or seal shut, I'm in Florida and I don't use A/C, replaceing little stuff like that and haveing someone else do it is why project car budgets get blown.
Unless someone can do all this, tell me how to make it so everyone is happy, I dont have to ruin my car and where I can get those for cheap (it's free now) I don't what to hear ideas about how you think it should be done.
This is the final time I am saying it.

You ask questions here from people that know what they are talking about and then tell us you already have the answer from someone who knows more (but doesn't) and don't want to hear what we have to say. Sounds like this thread is about wrapped up then! You know it all! Your last post pretty much says it all! Good Luck!

[Belgium R/T -68]

My -68 needed 18 months and a lot of money for the body to be properly made although you wouldn't have thought it needed any welding before
I took the car apart, it was a beatiful 10 footer. I could never had cheated on myself leaving a bad spot or made a "easy fix" and at the same time
putting all new parts on the car. It would hount me in my sleep for the rest of my life. Just my 

[500hp_440]

Blasting will remove some of the rust but it is hard to get to. Cut the circles out and make new ones. It isn't as hard as you think. Welding will be the fun part upsidedown & laying in there. Too bad it wasn't on a rotissorie for that job.

Blasting will remove some of the rust but it is hard to get to. Cut the circles out and make new ones. It isn't as hard as you think. Welding will be the fun part upsidedown & laying in there. Too bad it wasn't on a rotissorie for that job.

Thank you, that's exactly what I'm doing, except I'm not stupid (not that you are) enough to weld anything on my car, mainly because it will look like CRAP, so I'm panel bonding them on, it's like cold welding, they use it to hold quarter panels and stuff on car nowadays.

[500hp_440]

Cowl rot is mostly caused by improper storage...ie stuff like leaves or needles fall in the fresh air intake vent and build up around the stacks, (dirt to) trapping moisture and causing rust. After you "fix" that area have your man prime and paint to his liking and seal with what ever he likes. Then keep the car garaged when not in use or covered with a car cover. Oh and avoid the rain...Old cars and water don't mix...gets in all the crevices no matter what...and stays.  

Can I paint in there myself?
Also how can I get the leaves and dirt out of that vent?

[Tilar]

Haha, Dream on kiddo. 

You asked, if you want it theres the price tag
Also don't ever buy used police stuff, they treat it like crap, trust me, I've watched them do it alot.

I never said it was a used police car, I said it was a Police Interceptor. Anyone can buy them new up until the 2009 models. I bought this car from the Department of Transportation Safety Administration where they used it to check some recalled wheels. The car spent most of its life running around a 3 mile oval track.  I only offered it to you in hopes that you would trade because you are on track to fuckup a really nice car with the way you are rushing through it and listening to your "patch it quick and get it out of here" body man.  If you're not going to do it right, don't do it... At least to that car.

I don't what to hear ideas about how you think it should be done.
This is the final time I am saying it.

I've wasted enough energy on this thread. You've been nothing but a rude little punk that needs his ass beat red. You came on here asking peoples advice and everyone has tried to get along with you, but when you get a reply that you don't want to hear you pout about it. These people have a true passion for these cars. All you are showing is you have a love for owning a cool car, not loving the car for what it is.

I'm willing to bet that there are well over 30,000 years of combined experience building these cars with all the members of this board. I myself have been at it since 1973 so do the math. I think we trump your mechanic and body man.

[captnsim]

Painting most of the inner cowl will be easier with the ring/s removed for repair. Gives you a little more room. A touch up gun is about as small as it gets and are fairly cheap if you want to spray it. Otherwise you can brush on the paint if you have to...but I'd only do this in areas not seen thru the vent grates.
I'd also consider replacing the wiper pivot seals while your in their as they are a common leak area.
Getting the debris out should be easy now as you have it all apart?? It's keeping it out from now on that matters.