My first car (re-named from my parents....)

[tan top]

what ever you do Ryan never sand blast the sheet metal ,  if you do , it will end up warped , stretched ,  & you Will  be buying more Bondo to straighten it out than Hlpag & BK  put together    ,

[Chad L. Magee]

The posted article is correct, as force (compression) upon metals can potentially change their unit cell structures (phases) from more ordered to disordered types (see an engineering materials textbook for a more further explanation).  Quenching methods can be used to return most of the metal back to the orginal phase, but that is just not feasible with an entire car body.  [side note- I had an engineering materials course that covered that into much further detail that anyone would ever want to know.]  An expert sandblaster would be able to detect the compression limit of the steel and keep his hit pressure well below that limit (something that takes some patience to learn).  You can sandblast your sheetmetal without warpage though, just not using sand as the medium.  There is a multitude of different "soft" mediums that can be used for this purpose (small polymer beads, broken walnut shells, etc).  They do not induce the compression levels that the article talks about.  Unfortunately, there is a trade-off in that the medium will not be as agressive to the rust (some might only remove light rust scale), so be prepared to take your time to do it right.  Also, some mediums are more pricey than common sand, so be aware of that.  Check out an Eastwood catalog (or other supplier) to see what is avalible.......

Another process to get rid of the rust in the hard to reach areas would be though a chemical dip process, but that would cost alot to do to an entire car, although they do get into the areas that are hard to reach with a sandblaster.  I have had good luck removing medium rust (pits) on Charger roofs with Navel Jelly rust remover, but it is potentially toxic if you do not follow the instructions.  You can do some rust removal from small parts (nuts, bolts, etc) via soaking in household vinegar (or molasass/water mixture) over time..... 

[General_01]

Chad, check out this thread.

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,52531.0.html

[500hp_440]

I did some sand blasting until my air compressor broke  , but not i just need to vaccum and sand then its pretty much read to paint..... Which I havent done either  , this will be very intresting........, I'll upload pics if I do get to paint.

[69bronzeT5]

Didn't people suggest you not sand blast......

[Topher]

Didn't people suggest you not sand blast......

See. God doesn't want you to ruin your car!

[Finn]

i just need to vaccum and sand then its pretty much read to paint.

Do you mean ready for paint as in ready for it to be covered with some sort of primer/sealer until its ready for body work and the full paint job?

[500hp_440]

I talked to an ex-body guy (my freinds dad) he said to do it, and there were some spots the it was the blaster or chemicals, I tested it and it went well, no damage to the car, I'm just a little uncomfortable
But heres my next question, I just bought some Purple Power De-ruster, to spray and leave then paint it, anyone know if its good or not???

[Chad L. Magee]

Chad, check out this thread.

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,52531.0.html

Thanks for the heads up on that topic, I forgot to include it as a potential rust removing process above.  Electrolysis can remove rust by means of a sacrificial (easily oxidized) metal bar and a current of electricity.  It essentually converts the Fe2O3 (rust, iron in the +3 valence state) back into Fe (0), which is iron in the zero valence state or ground state.  The key to all of this is to have a solution containing a fair amount of electrolytes (thus the washing soda) to allow for the conduction process to occur.  (Running this method in pure deionized (DI) water without the electrolytes will slow the process if it can go at all, since the conduction pathway for the electricity is reduced severely.  DI water has a very low conductance of electricity, essentually zero microA, since all of the ions are missing.)  It will work for small parts, but large items are a bit of a problem unless you have a very large tank and ample supply of chemicals/electrodes to work with.  For a large car body such as a Charger, I think that there are businesses that do that (for big $), but they have to be regulated for the amount of unwanted materials that they produce/dispose of.  I think that is the general process that chrome platers use to stabilize (de-rust) and clean the metal parts (like bumpers, bolts, etc) before they use a different electrochemical process to do the actual plating upon the metal surface.

On a side note, there used to be kits that you could attach to the trunk area of the car that contained a sacrificial metal (Zinc comes to mind, although it could also be other transition metals), such that the corrosion occurring upon the car would be limited to the attached bar rather than the surrounding sheetmetal.  The sacrificial metal oxidizes easier than the sheetmetal.  The basic principle has been used to protect cargo ships for many years.  It has been awhile since I have ran across a car with one of those systems attached.....

[Chad L. Magee]

I talked to an ex-body guy (my freinds dad) he said to do it, and there were some spots the it was the blaster or chemicals, I tested it and it went well, no damage to the car, I'm just a little uncomfortable
But heres my next question, I just bought some Purple Power De-ruster, to spray and leave then paint it, anyone know if its good or not???

I have never used that particular product, but you have to be careful about products that you just paint over.  PR-15 is a similar type of product and I have seen photos of parts that it failed to protect (I am not saying PR-15 is bad, just that you need to chose the right application for it).  The potential problem is that if it ever cracks or chips, the rust layer will become exposed and you will have to redo the part again.  To me, it would be better to completely remove the rust before topping the area with a good rust preventing primer/coating polymer.....

[500hp_440]

I talked to an ex-body guy (my freinds dad) he said to do it, and there were some spots the it was the blaster or chemicals, I tested it and it went well, no damage to the car, I'm just a little uncomfortable
But heres my next question, I just bought some Purple Power De-ruster, to spray and leave then paint it, anyone know if its good or not???

I have never used that particular product, but you have to be careful about products that you just paint over.  PR-15 is a similar type of product and I have seen photos of parts that it failed to protect (I am not saying PR-15 is bad, just that you need to chose the right application for it).  The potential problem is that if it ever cracks or chips, the rust layer will become exposed and you will have to redo the part again.  To me, it would be better to completely remove the rust before topping the area with a good rust preventing primer/coating polymer.....

thanks ill try to sand it some more. I just hate that trunk its big but not comfortable   

[rav440]

I talked to an ex-body guy (my freinds dad) he said to do it, and there were some spots the it was the blaster or chemicals, I tested it and it went well, no damage to the car, I'm just a little uncomfortable
But heres my next question, I just bought some Purple Power De-ruster, to spray and leave then paint it, anyone know if its good or not???

10 guys here that know what they are talking about say DO NOT SAND BLAST SHEET METAL and 1 ex-bodyman says yes its ok to sand blast sheet metal , and you listen to him   i wonder why hes not a body man anymore  

well atlest the CHARGER isnt getting painted black , so thats a plus .  

did you ever get a chance to pull the valve covers ?

[500hp_440]

I talked to an ex-body guy (my freinds dad) he said to do it, and there were some spots the it was the blaster or chemicals, I tested it and it went well, no damage to the car, I'm just a little uncomfortable
But heres my next question, I just bought some Purple Power De-ruster, to spray and leave then paint it, anyone know if its good or not???

10 guys here that know what they are talking about say DO NOT SAND BLAST SHEET METAL and 1 ex-bodyman says yes its ok to sand blast sheet metal , and you listen to him   i wonder why hes not a body man anymore  

well atlest the CHARGER isnt getting painted black , so thats a plus .  

did you ever get a chance to pull the valve covers ?

He said its ok and it looked at one of the websites someone posted and it said blah blah blah and it wasnt heat that did it, but I watch it carefully and there was really no other way, unless I grind it and I could just imagine the flood of comments I'd get, but no warpage, least not enought to notice . He's and es-bady guy because he retired, plus I've watched him work before, he knows his stuff.
and no I didnt, Ive been going full steam on the body, havent even lifted the hood, I'll try to tomarrow

[500hp_440]

**Today's run down**
Sand blasted CAREFULLY after I was told to do so, the trunk and some of the cab, worked awsome, besides a broken air hose and some discomfort .
I sprayed some Royal Purpal De-rust, on my surface rust and rough spots. All-in-all it went very well.
Tomrrow I'm going to try to get my head numbers, some paint down, and/or finish my prep work .

[defiance]

there are other types of media blasting.  I had mine soda blasted.  It has some disadvantages; the surface MUST be treated immediately afterward because of the chemical composition, and it gets into EVERYTHING so requires a thorough cleaning - but it removes the paint and it's less damaging to the metal.
Guess you've already done your part though, so whatever

[quentin]

I've been reading this thread, and I'm finally ready to make my decision.  I'm going to go with mental nut cases.

[500hp_440]

**Thread Update**
thread has a new name, and I modified the first post, to more reflect what you all have taught me!

there are other types of media blasting.  I had mine soda blasted.  It has some disadvantages; the surface MUST be treated immediately afterward because of the chemical composition, and it gets into EVERYTHING so requires a thorough cleaning - but it removes the paint and it's less damaging to the metal.
Guess you've already done your part though, so whatever

I couldn't do that because of the immediate cleaning thing, and all the exposed metal on the car and water nope not a good combo, that like bondo on a original

[Topher]

You are making progress in the right direction Ryan. Keep up the good work, and take lots of pictures.

[TUFCAT]

post pictures 

[500hp_440]

post pictures 

My computers crappier then your litter box TUFCAT, if I could I would but, I've tried and cant.
Their on myspace www.myspace.com/rip_mpm

[TUFCAT]

post pictures 

My computers crappier then your litter box TUFCAT,

NOW THAT'S FUNNY!!   

[mikepmcs]

This link goes right to Ryan's photos.  Keep it up brother.   

http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=user.viewPicture&friendID=384484152&albumId=889212

[500hp_440]

This link goes right to Ryan's photos.  Keep it up brother.   

http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=user.viewPicture&friendID=384484152&albumId=889212

Thanks! 

[General_01]

Keep it up.

Now, if you you can, take that direct link to your myspace pics that mike put up and put it in your sig. That way, every time you post and want people to look at your pics they can hit the link right in your sig.

[500hp_440]

Keep it up.

Now, if you you can, take that direct link to your myspace pics that mike put up and put it in your sig. That way, every time you post and want people to look at your pics they can hit the link right in your sig.

Good idea I'll try right after I get my heads number.