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My first car (re-named from my parents....)

Started by 500hp_440, January 03, 2009, 10:08:41 PM

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General_01

I belive he is doing a compression test to see if his rings are still good. I forget the numbers. I think 165 psi sounds about right though. Write down the number you get from each cylinder and let us know what the readings are.
1971 Dodge Charger Super Bee
496 stroker
4-speed

The70RT

100 -150 on the compression test. Depending on year and compression ratio. If it hasn't been run in a while squirt some oil in each cylinder and turn it over to get the cylinders pumped up. You are looking for consistency.
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rav440

Quote from: 500hp_440 on January 24, 2009, 12:41:28 PM
Quote from: rav440 on January 24, 2009, 08:45:20 AM
RYAN , is the 440 running ? unless you are bound and determined to tear down the 440 . dont touch anything till you are ready and have the funds to complete the task .

rebuild costs could be anywhere from 1000+ to 20,000+ just depends what you want . all i can say is parts aint cheap . ive been buying componets for my 440 for two years now and i havent even begun to think about machine work and the cost of that .

if you want heads done figure around a $1000 + or -

its all just a question of money and what you want .


I've gotten a head ground for $100 before
But can I figure out the pistons and if its bored out but taking off a head?


mmkay  :shruggy: there a little more work involved than just milling off some steel . like i said if you want your heads done figure around a grand . thats a ballpark #

good work aint cheap & cheap work aint good
1973 PLYMOUTH road runner GTX



500hp_440

Quote from: rav440 on January 24, 2009, 06:02:00 PM
Quote from: 500hp_440 on January 24, 2009, 12:41:28 PM
Quote from: rav440 on January 24, 2009, 08:45:20 AM
RYAN , is the 440 running ? unless you are bound and determined to tear down the 440 . dont touch anything till you are ready and have the funds to complete the task .

rebuild costs could be anywhere from 1000+ to 20,000+ just depends what you want . all i can say is parts aint cheap . ive been buying componets for my 440 for two years now and i havent even begun to think about machine work and the cost of that .

if you want heads done figure around a $1000 + or -

its all just a question of money and what you want .


I've gotten a head ground for $100 before
But can I figure out the pistons and if its bored out but taking off a head?


mmkay  :shruggy: there a little more work involved than just milling off some steel . like i said if you want your heads done figure around a grand . thats a ballpark #

good work aint cheap & cheap work aint good
It was done by where the dealerships send there stuff, I just saved by pulling the valves out :yesnod:
Thanks and I agree about the work thing
Let it alone^.

Foreman72

Eric "Foreman"

Previous: 1972 Dodge Charger
Current: 2002 Volvo S60

"The steps of a man are ordered by the LORD, and He delights in his way. Though he fall, he shall not be utterly cast down; For the LORD upholds him with His hand.
=Psalm 37:23-24=
"But store up for yourselves treasures in heaven..."
=Matthew 6:19-21=
:pat

hemi-hampton

For the Interior paint you made the right choice with the single stage. Only thing I'd do different if on a low budget is since it is a Interior & not exterior I'd get something like PPG's low budget brand OMNI (now painters choice) For less then $100 for a whole gallon with activator/catalyst & reducer. Good thing about single stage is no need for a clear since the gloss is allready there once sprayed unlike a basecoat or laquer which is madatory to clear except on solid laquers. If you got no gloss then your probably spraying to dry. I can see it's light or transparent so a couple more heavier coats should do it. I think Compression on a stock 440 is 10:25 in 70, maybe 10:50 in 69. Not sure but somewhere around there. Unless you've had the heads or block milled or thinner head gaskett added. Every 0.040 equals 1 compression ratio more. LEON.

Tilar

Quote from: 500hp_440 on January 23, 2009, 06:05:58 PM
I'm going todo a compression test tomarrow, see what it comes out, what's stock and what's really good?

Good compression during a compression test isn't really as much about numbers as it is being consistant. Good compression would be for all cylinders to run 150 to 160 pounds. But if you have all of them running 110 that is still good. If you have 7 running 150 and one running 110, You have a problem. If you start getting reading below 100 you have a tired engine.

A cylinder needs a bare minimum of 50 pounds to do anything when that plug fires.

Oh, and like someone already said, If it tests out at least consistant and it runs alright, Don't go tearing it down until you have the funds to do it right.  In other words, Don't fix it if it aint broke.
Dave  

God must love stupid people; He made so many.



500hp_440

Is there anyway nto make extra sure I dont throw a rod threw my block?
Let it alone^.

Back N Black

There shouldn't be any more than 15% difference between you highest reading cylinder and your lowest cylinder. There are a few factors that will affect your compression reading, like the condition of you battery and your starter. It better to do a leak down test,it can really pinpoint the problem.

rav440

Quote from: 500hp_440 on January 25, 2009, 09:02:49 AM
Is there anyway nto make extra sure I dont throw a rod threw my block?

yes , remove the starter .  :D
1973 PLYMOUTH road runner GTX



Tilar

Quote from: 500hp_440 on January 25, 2009, 09:02:49 AM
Is there anyway nto make extra sure I dont throw a rod threw my block?

Drive it like you have a sleeping baby in the back seat... Of course removing the starter is always a sure thing.  :lol:
Dave  

God must love stupid people; He made so many.



The70RT

Quote from: Tilar on January 25, 2009, 11:43:03 AM
Quote from: 500hp_440 on January 25, 2009, 09:02:49 AM
Is there anyway nto make extra sure I dont throw a rod threw my block?

Drive it like you have a sleeping baby in the back seat... Of course removing the starter is always a sure thing.  :lol:

Also put a 1/2" block of wood on the underside of the gas pedal.... :D
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500hp_440

Drain the oil, cant throw a rod when the engine's seized :lol:
But is there anyway to make sure it wont, or check if its likely too?
Let it alone^.

rav440

Quote from: 500hp_440 on January 25, 2009, 05:29:39 PM
Drain the oil, cant throw a rod when the engine's seized :lol:
But is there anyway to make sure it wont, or check if its likely too?


i would say check all you main and rod caps to see i they are at the right torque specs . :shruggy:
other than that a tear down and rebuint would be the other only option , is my guess :shruggy:
1973 PLYMOUTH road runner GTX



terrible one


I might be the only one with this kind of opinion but if it were me:

You're bolting the last few things onto the motor, and it's complete now, right? I still personally don't think it's a freshly built mill or anything. Just start it up and see what it does man!

500hp_440

If I do throw a rod threw the block cant I get the hole filled with weld? just weld it and smooth it out?
Let it alone^.

rav440

Quote from: 500hp_440 on January 25, 2009, 06:32:40 PM
If I do throw a rod threw the block cant I get the hole filled with weld? just weld it and smooth it out?

i think JB WELD or GORRILLA GLUE would be the fix or you could drill out the hole and add an extra oil line .
1973 PLYMOUTH road runner GTX



Troy

Uh. Let's try keeping the engine together first. If you knock a hole in it then just get another block.

Troy
Sarcasm detector, that's a real good invention.

500hp_440

Quote from: Troy on January 25, 2009, 06:43:47 PM
Uh. Let's try keeping the engine together first. If you knock a hole in it then just get another block.

Troy

Well now that you mention it, I live on a river and theres an old v8 block down in the water, its coverd in barrnacles but if I ever need it..... :shruggy:
Let it alone^.

500hp_440

I got a new master cylinder for $35 brand new!! But I think my charger is set up for a booster :brickwall: and I really dont want to use one. How can I drill it to make it fit right? and where can I get  new metering valve for my brakes?
Let it alone^.

TUFCAT

Quote from: 500hp_440 on January 25, 2009, 10:33:16 PM
I got a new master cylinder for $35 brand new!! But I think my charger is set up for a booster :brickwall: and I really dont want to use one. How can I drill it to make it fit right? and where can I get  new metering valve for my brakes?

http://www.mpbrakes.com/products/list.cfm?make=dodge&model=charger&year=1969&product=94

You can buy these kits from MP brakes. Do you get any mopar magazines? A lot of products are available....or Google search.

The70RT

Quote from: 500hp_440 on January 25, 2009, 10:33:16 PM
I got a new master cylinder for $35 brand new!! But I think my charger is set up for a booster :brickwall: and I really dont want to use one. How can I drill it to make it fit right? and where can I get  new metering valve for my brakes?

I got mine at inline tube.
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500hp_440

I asked Don the mopar guy, he can get me a proportioning valve aka metering for $250 , so I'm going to just use mine if at all possible :D
Let it alone^.

500hp_440

Seriously I NEED to make $1,300 ASAP I owe my dad it and I've got no ideas, I think I'm going to try to sell some of my spare charger parts, but any ideas to make a few bucks?? :shruggy: I'm always looking for work but jobs for me are few and far between....... Yes I know alot of people are in the same crunch I am.
Let it alone^.

teamroth

Craigslist...there are ways to make money, just might have to work your ass off for it.
I'd rather die than go to heaven.