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K-frame assy

Started by Belgium R/T -68, December 31, 2008, 05:55:09 AM

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Belgium R/T -68

There is rather much play between bolts and hole in the K-frame when assembling, how important is the exact location of the K-frame
towards the framerails? :scratchchin:
Charger -68 R/T 500 cui Stroker

Charger-Bodie

If you are using the correct original bolts you will see that they have a small shoulder near the head, that will line up the k frame.
68 Charger R/t white with black v/t and red tailstripe. 440 4 speed ,black interior
68 383 auto with a/c and power windows. Now 440 4 speed jj1 gold black interior .
My Charger is a hybrid car, it burns gas and rubber............

Belgium R/T -68

Quote from: 1hot68 on December 31, 2008, 06:24:13 AM
If you are using the correct original bolts you will see that they have a small shoulder near the head, that will line up the k frame.

Thanks, I will use other bolts but will use the original ones as messurment. :2thumbs:
Charger -68 R/T 500 cui Stroker

Mike DC

I don't think the stock bolts were one of the more common thread pitches & shapes.  You really should consider just using some factory original K-frame bolts. 



Charger-Bodie

Quote from: Mike DC (formerly miked) on December 31, 2008, 02:58:28 PM
I don't think the stock bolts were one of the more common thread pitches & shapes.  You really should consider just using some factory original K-frame bolts. 



:iagree:

68 Charger R/t white with black v/t and red tailstripe. 440 4 speed ,black interior
68 383 auto with a/c and power windows. Now 440 4 speed jj1 gold black interior .
My Charger is a hybrid car, it burns gas and rubber............

firefighter3931

Fwiw, i used a non stock k-frame bolt on mine when i lowered the k-frame with 1in spacers....works fine. The shouldered bolts are not essential, inmo. The torsion bars will keep everything where it's supposed to be....i didn't even disconnect the torsion bars while installing the k-frame spacers....just removed the bolts and pulled the k-frame down by hand....slid the spacers in and reinstalled the longer bolts.  :icon_smile_big:

I purchased the bolts at a local Fastner supply store...i think they're a conventional 3/4in coarse thread, nothing special.  ;)

Per is good to go...i sent him some bolts with his shipment and he was able to reuse 2 of the originals.  :2thumbs:



Ron
68 Charger R/T "Black Pig" Street/Strip bruiser, 70 Charger R/T 440-6bbl Cruiser. Firecore ignition  authorized dealer ; contact me with your needs

Charger-Bodie

Id have to say that Id be kinda worried about the K-frame moving around some without the shoulders. IMO

But, if he has 2 shouldered bolts that should hold it square.
68 Charger R/t white with black v/t and red tailstripe. 440 4 speed ,black interior
68 383 auto with a/c and power windows. Now 440 4 speed jj1 gold black interior .
My Charger is a hybrid car, it burns gas and rubber............

firefighter3931

Quote from: 1hot68 on December 31, 2008, 07:03:17 PM
Id have to say that Id be kinda worried about the K-frame moving around some without the shoulders. IMO

But, if he has 2 shouldered bolts that should hold it square.


Brian, no need to be worried....guys have been lowering k-frames for years in racecars making 700+ horspower running well into the 8's @ 150mph with no issues....using non-shouldered bolts. I have done this (lowering) mod on 2 occasions with no ill effect (actually bump steer improves = nice side benefit)....i would not recommend something that i wasn't 100% sure would work.  :2thumbs:


Per can sleep better knowing he has 2 shouldered stock bolts.  ;)  Either way, once the torsion bars are installed the K-frame ain't moving.  :icon_smile_big:



Ron
68 Charger R/T "Black Pig" Street/Strip bruiser, 70 Charger R/T 440-6bbl Cruiser. Firecore ignition  authorized dealer ; contact me with your needs

Charger-Bodie

Quote from: firefighter3931 on December 31, 2008, 07:19:14 PM
Quote from: 1hot68 on December 31, 2008, 07:03:17 PM
Id have to say that Id be kinda worried about the K-frame moving around some without the shoulders. IMO

But, if he has 2 shouldered bolts that should hold it square.


Brian, no need to be worried....guys have been lowering k-frames for years in racecars making 700+ horspower running well into the 8's @ 150mph with no issues....using non-shouldered bolts. I have done this (lowering) mod on 2 occasions with no ill effect (actually bump steer improves = nice side benefit)....i would not recommend something that i wasn't 100% sure would work.  :2thumbs:


Per can sleep better knowing he has 2 shouldered stock bolts.  ;)  Either way, once the torsion bars are installed the K-frame ain't moving.  :icon_smile_big:



Ron

Ron,

I actually wasnt trying to second guess youre opinion....just saying that I dont think my OCD could handle it. :cheers:
68 Charger R/t white with black v/t and red tailstripe. 440 4 speed ,black interior
68 383 auto with a/c and power windows. Now 440 4 speed jj1 gold black interior .
My Charger is a hybrid car, it burns gas and rubber............

firefighter3931

Quote from: 1hot68 on December 31, 2008, 07:21:45 PM

just saying that I dont think my OCD could handle it. :cheers:



Now that is funny !  :lol: You're gonna have a heart attack when you crawl under my car at Carlisle then....i'll bring some extra O2 and a defibrillator just in case.  :D



Ron
68 Charger R/T "Black Pig" Street/Strip bruiser, 70 Charger R/T 440-6bbl Cruiser. Firecore ignition  authorized dealer ; contact me with your needs

Mopar2Ya

Not to thread jack, but what are the benefits of lowering the K-frame?

1970 Charger R/T
2006 GC SRT8

firefighter3931

Quote from: Mopar2Ya on December 31, 2008, 07:37:20 PM
Not to thread jack, but what are the benefits of lowering the K-frame?


Increased hood clearance with high rise intake manifolds & improved bump steer.  :2thumbs:


Ron
68 Charger R/T "Black Pig" Street/Strip bruiser, 70 Charger R/T 440-6bbl Cruiser. Firecore ignition  authorized dealer ; contact me with your needs

Mike DC

That's interesting, I didn't realize the stock K-frame bolts were something easily mimicked with generic hardware. 


The lowered K-frame trick is a good one.

I can't imagine getting a whole lot of gain out of lowering the K-frame though.  I would imagine that the torsion bars are gonna hold that thing pretty close to stock.  More than 1/4th of an inch and you're probably getting away with it by flexing some stuff that shouldn't be flexed.