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383 vs 400

Started by daves68, October 31, 2005, 08:11:01 PM

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daves68

I am currently restoring my 68 Charger and need some input regarding engine choices. I have a 1966 383 w/ forged crank and a
1976 400 w/cast crank. Both need boring and pistons. Which is the better choice to spend the bucks on?? Anyone else have some experience to share? Thanks.
Email :  minocqua@prodigy.net

ScottW

Good question, but what are your goals for a power plant?

I have a 73 400 that I am planning on rebuilding with a stroker kit. It was originally intended to upgrade the 360 in my 74 but I might use it to replace the 383 in my 71.

I think that both the 383 and 400 make decent street motors. If you're going racing stroke the 400.


1971 Dodge Charger SE 383 Magnum
1974 Dodge Charger SE 360/4v Sunroof

daves68

Thanks Scott.
I intend this to be a street cruiser. Probably aournd 9.5:1 comp, middle of the road cam, 3:23 or 3:55 gears.Pump gas, occasional exhilarating burst of acceleration, but not for competition. Goal is a cross country trip on Route 66- Chicago to LA.  I get conflicting info that the 400 is a less sturdy block than the 383's.  The 383 is older with an unknown history. To the best of my knowledge, it has been .030 over already, the 400 is as is, w/ 75000 original miles, out of an Arizona Cordoba.  Ran good but you know the smog motor heritage. Nothing that can't be easily corrected.

ScottW

1971 Dodge Charger SE 383 Magnum
1974 Dodge Charger SE 360/4v Sunroof

Spartan

I can't speak about a 400 but I've had a couple 383's and have had very few problems with them.  They were stock set-ups and not HP.  They held up well with a lead-foot teenager behind the wheel :)
Over?! its not over until we say it is! Was it over when the Germans bombed Pearl Harbor?!...Hell no! and its not over now!..(Germans? Pearl Harbor?...shut up, he's on a roll)

cudaken

 Use both :icon_smile_big: I would use the 400 block and heads with the 383 crank ;) Cost of parts are the same and with new pistons you can make any compression you want. 17 CI is 17 CI. 66 383 will have the 516 heads, good heads but will need bigger valves. 400 should have 452's and have bigger valves.

383 is a steel crank, 400 is a cast crank. You must use the 383 balancer and converter or fly wheel with the 383 crank. Same with the 400, they are balanced driffrent. Parts in the block is not a issue.

                                             Cuda Ken
I am back

aifilaw

cudaken's right, also the 383 is well known as a bullet-proof block, it can take a beating and keep on, cylinder walls can be bored out a tenth and be nowhere near the jacket on every one I've ever worked with. There's nothing really wrong with the 400.  I would stick with the 452 heads and not the closed chambereds in order to run on 87 octane, piston choice can clear all that up, but the 452's have a good swirl and port mechanics that yields itself to not knocking. Best of all the 383 comes with the forged crank, unless you are just going to piece oneo f them together using parts, everything should swap that I can think of offhand.
'72 B5 Metallic Blue Hardtop
426" Wedge - Hydraulic Roller Stealth heads

daves68

Thanks for all of the input. Makes it easier to decide with more info. Probably go with the 400 , forged crank, and 452 heads. The 383 came to me with 346 heads, obviously not year matching to the block. Maybe save that one for the next project.

Chargerguy74

I think the 400 is a slightly stronger block. Wasn't it nacho who posted the difference between 383 and 400 castings?
WANTED: NOS or excellent condition 72-74 4 speed shifter boot for bench or centre armrest car, part number 3467755. It's a rubber boot that looks like it's sewn up leather.

WANTED: My original 440 blocks. Serial # 2A188182 and 3A100002

cudaken

 346 Heads are from a 71 to 72 383/440 and have the bigger valves and will work just as good as the 452's. 452's have harden seats, which I don't think is needed. I would use the heads that need the little work if you are on a budget.


                                   Cuda Ken
                                                 
I am back

Chryco Psycho

not all 400s are stronger , the early 230 casting is though

471_Magnum

Building a stock 383 will be easier on the budget. Not sure what's currently available off the shelf for 400 stock stroke pistons.

The 400 will snowball into a stroker motor before you know it. IF you've got the budget, go for it.
"I can fix it... my old man is a television repairman... he's got the ultimate set of tools... I can fix it."

cudaken

471_Magnum, last time I looked 350, 361, 383, 400, 413, 426W and 440 parts all cost the same. 350 is not a typo and I did leave out the 383 RB engine, have no clue if you can get parts for them.

Only reason I said to use the 400 is it is bigger than a 383. If the parts cost the same I rather have the extra cubic's.

On a side note, I would rather bulid a 440.

                               Cuda Ken
I am back

471_Magnum

Quote from: cudaken on November 02, 2005, 06:28:38 PM
471_Magnum, last time I looked 350, 361, 383, 400, 413, 426W and 440 parts all cost the same.

Not if you're talking about pistons. Not much selection for 350, 361 413 or 426. That means custom piston$.

Like I said, not sure what's available these days for a 400. Stock replacement piston will net you about 7.5:1 CR. Not what you want for performance. That pushes you towards an after market high compression piston.
"I can fix it... my old man is a television repairman... he's got the ultimate set of tools... I can fix it."

Ghoste

And don't forget the snowball effect.

Runner

if all your looking for is a cruiser that runs decent either motor will do that.  id go with whatever block cleaned up the best. id use the steel crank for no other reason than it will give you the original balancer thickness and looks right, plus its a better peice. a cast crank will hold up fine for a good running street car.  the 400 is probably worth 10-15 hp simply becasue of the cubes, but if your never giong to race the car you WILL NOT feel the differeance in seat of the pants exceleration between the 2 engines.  kb makes pistons for both motors however they are about 60 dollars a set more for the 400 than they are for the 383.

    id figure out what your budget is, how much drivability your willing to give up for power and go from there.  if stroking it is in the budget, then thats what id do. you can have a milder combo that runs harder.

71 roadrunner 452 e heads  11.35@119 mph owned sence 1984
72 panther pink satellite sebring plus 383 727
68 satellite 383 4 speed  13.80 @ 102 mph  my daily driver
69 superbee clone 440    daughters car
72 dodge dart swinger slant six

daves68

Great input from everyone. I heard that if the bore is not too worn in the 400,it can be bored out .008 and use + .030 pistons for a 440.If so, that would increase the available selection a lot. Guess some measuring is in order. Don't really want to spend for the stroker motor, although is does sound like fun. Right now most cash is going into body and paint.

Runner

dave, a 440 piston is giong to need some work to go into a 400 block as the deck height is different between the 2. a 440 has a 9.98 deck and a 440 has a 10.725  the effort to get the psiton to work in the block just isnt worth it imo.  in the end it would probably be cheaper to order a custom piston to get anything you want.

71 roadrunner 452 e heads  11.35@119 mph owned sence 1984
72 panther pink satellite sebring plus 383 727
68 satellite 383 4 speed  13.80 @ 102 mph  my daily driver
69 superbee clone 440    daughters car
72 dodge dart swinger slant six