Belgian Stroker

[firefighter3931]

Checked pushrod lenght and preload so I can order new pushrods, the toothpicks I had before doesn't look strong enough.
Looking at the red marks I will have approx 0.035" preload with the lenght I will go for, should be OK?

In the MP rocker and shaftkit the retainer/washer between the rockers wasn't included, are they needed? On the picture I used the old one.

The old spacers are fine to re-use...no worries. 

The usual pre-load range falls between .020-.040 so you should be fine. You just don't want the lifter plunger bottomed out when the valvtrain is installed.



Ron

[Belgium R/T -68]

Tried to sand the damper a few hours with 600 paper but with no result so I guess I have to take to a machineshop.
Strange is that it's like 2 bushings welded together inside and you really can feel the weldsurface in there, haven't seen that
on a stock one.

[Mick70RR]

I could't get my new damper on the 440 Source crank either so I used a flapper wheel in a drill to hone it out.

[Belgium R/T -68]

A picture says moore then thousand words, Thanks.

[royt440]

When installing the damper, don't forget to put some oil on the seal and the damper.  A dry seal can get torn up if you start the engine.

Thanks for all the pics

[Belgium R/T -68]

Getting further in but at the end, 0.42" left with the summit one and 0.22" left with the stock one, it's like hitting a wall.
It's completly stops, not harder just bang stop Is the crankshaft like a cone? Is the woodruffkey playing with me?

[Mick70RR]

I'm sure the crank is not tapered, you need to hone it some more. I must have honed my damper and tried it on the crank 10 times before it finally went on all the way. The fact that the original damper is also tight proves that the 440 Source crank is a little oversized too.

[Belgium R/T -68]

I'm just afraid that when I'm finished the damper isn't 100% round inside anymoore. Yoy kind of loose control of things when working with
"homeequipment".

[Belgium R/T -68]

Found the problem a little bit to late for this damper I guess The woodruffkey wasn't 100% straight in it's position making the
damper stopping after a certain moment. Problem is now after my honing that I can push the damper all the way in by hand.
I have a new one on the way for another project, maybe I better use that one? Who wants a damper coming loose
at 5000 rpm?

[b5blue]

 

[six-tee-nine]

Somehow, we always have to learn some things the hard way....don't we.....

To bad it always goes at the cost of our wallet....

[Belgium R/T -68]

Somehow, we always have to learn some things the hard way....don't we.....

To bad it always goes at the cost of our wallet....

Don't talk about it Koen, it could get anyone a serious depression.

[Belgium R/T -68]

Recieved my new damper so I could continue to build Oilpan and MP windagetray together with the heads went on today.
Cleanded the heads from some burr but other from that I didn't see any abnormalities.
Some questions though, ARP says 60 ft pound while Edelbroeck says 70, what's correct? The studs for the rockershaft coming with the heads, are they supposed for fitting or permanent use? I first thought of using the indy valleytray but I don't see how to close the gaps towards the heads?
A lot of questions but It's my first non stock buid.

per

[six-tee-nine]

Per,

I'm not sure on this one though but I always thought you should put the valley pan in place BEFORE you put the heads on..... Then use liquid gasket stuff to goop up the gap between the heads and the valley pan...

[oldschool]

that valley tray is not going to work.it needs to go under the heads.it looks like either the tray is for a low deck motor or the heads do not have enough overhang for the tray to fit under.also could be the block has been milled and not the end rails.

[Belgium R/T -68]

According to Mancini this type don't go under the heads, one thought was to use the stock valleypan under but cut it open in the middle.

[oldschool]

According to Mancini this type don't go under the heads, one thought was to use the stock valleypan under but cut it open in the middle.

those are made to go under the head.i use the same setup on my four motors.indy does not sell any other kind that i'm aware of.

[Belgium R/T -68]

OK, could be that they are to be used with indyheads only. I stick to stock valleypan.

[firefighter3931]

Recieved my new damper so I could continue to build Oilpan and MP windagetray together with the heads went on today.
Cleanded the heads from some burr but other from that I didn't see any abnormalities.
Some questions though, ARP says 60 ft pound while Edelbroeck says 70, what's correct? The studs for the rockershaft coming with the heads, are they supposed for fitting or permanent use? I first thought of using the indy valleytray but I don't see how to close the gaps towards the heads?
A lot of questions but It's my first non stock buid.

per

Per, the studs are used on 2 of the hold downs for each head....the e-head installation instructions will show you which ones use the studs. Torque the heads to 70 ftlbs and use oil on the threads to achieve the correct torque values.

The ICH valley pan is for Indy heads only....the RPM heads use a standard valley pan gasket. 


Ron

[Chatt69chgr]

This is a real interesting thread.  I am looking forward to what pushrods you use (Smith Brothers maybe).  Also real interested in if you have any clearance issues between the stock stamped steel rockers and the valve spring retainers.  I think Edelbrock actually recommends using upgraded rockers.  Something like roller tipped.  And not the cheap ones that 440 source has.  I mean good ones from someone like Harland Sharpe or Hughes or somebody like that along with an upgraded rocker shaft.

[Belgium R/T -68]

This is a real interesting thread.  I am looking forward to what pushrods you use (Smith Brothers maybe).  Also real interested in if you have any clearance issues between the stock stamped steel rockers and the valve spring retainers.  I think Edelbrock actually recommends using upgraded rockers.  Something like roller tipped.  And not the cheap ones that 440 source has.  I mean good ones from someone like Harland Sharpe or Hughes or somebody like that along with an upgraded rocker shaft.

Always nice knowing somebody reads your thread We decided ( Ron agreed) that stock rockers should be enough with the K60 (.534")
although I know 440source disagreed with me on that one. I have turned the engine twice and don't find anything near a clearenceissue so I hope
for the best. The pushrods are chromemoly 5/16" stock lenght which gives me a preload of 0.030". Also remember this engine will never reach above
5000 rpm, the car will just be a occasional cruiser. Tonight I will finish up the rest.

Per

[Al]

Per you are doing a great job. Good luck with the built and greetings from a neighbor (Luxembourg). 

Al

[Belgium R/T -68]

Per you are doing a great job. Good luck with the built and greetings from a neighbor (Luxembourg). 

Al

Thanks Al  Now it's ready to jump in to the car.

Per

[b5blue]

Per you are doing a fantastic job! I can't get over how you can handle this when I go nuts sometimes dealing with wrong/defective parts and I'm right here in Florida USA!! 

[Belgium R/T -68]

Thanks  This is a once in a lifetime thing, the money I have spent on shipping and phonecalls alone can drive anybody crazy.

Per