Belgian Stroker

[Belgium R/T -68]

Finally got my special order Diamond pistons.  -13cc would bring the comp down to a reasonable level.

Now I can get started with all meassuring again, hopefully piston to wall clearence is OK. The machinework is done for the KB pistons.

[firefighter3931]

Perfect, those are just what the doctor ordered ! 



Ron

[Challenger340]

Those look nice !
Should make for happy holes !

[Belgium R/T -68]

Ron,
You know I'm used to the massproduction engines so it takes a while to convince me.

The box alone shows classdifference, you know what you pay for.

[firefighter3931]

Ron,
You know I'm used to the massproduction engines so it takes a while to convince me.

The box alone shows classdifference, you know what you pay for.

Per,

Diamond is a top shelf product....i have the same pistons that you have for my future 493 project and just ordered a set of Custom 4.5 bore Diamonds for the 572 pump gas build. I luv them ! 



Ron

[Belgium R/T -68]

Finally I could start up the strokerbuild again. Mounted the Engle K60 first and then the rest of the day went for assembling
the pistonset together and meassuring clearences.

I noticed that Diamondpistons have double spirolox for the pistonpins where my KB for the GTX had single ones. I think I
doublechecked them 50 times.

I filed the rings to adviced opening and in the bore they went.

It's a pitty I didn't see untill now that the strokercrank didn't come with the woodruffkey, otherwise I could have continued with the timing-
chain and get to test my newly purchased degreekit, something I never did before. Ordered one today so within a week I can continue.

Per

[firefighter3931]

That looks great Per ! 

Those Diamond pistons are a work of art 

I see no problems with pump gas and that engine combo 



Ron

[Belgium R/T -68]

Bought myself a degreekit but the instructions tells me to have the heads on, isn't it easier to determine TDC without heads?

Per

[firefighter3931]

Bought myself a degreekit but the instructions tells me to have the heads on, isn't it easier to determine TDC without heads?

Per

Per, it's possible to do it either way...heads on or heads off. You need a piston stop to verify TDC properly.

With the heads off you can make your own with a piece of strapping and a bolt. 


Ron

[Belgium R/T -68]

OK, recieved the woodruffkey today so this weekend I can continue. But I have to meassure how long the pushrods should be before I can order those
ones, that's why I would have liked to degree the cam without the heads or I use old stock ones.

[firefighter3931]

OK, recieved the woodruffkey today so this weekend I can continue. But I have to meassure how long the pushrods should be before I can order those
ones, that's why I would have liked to degree the cam without the heads or I use old stock ones.

Per, this is what the piston stop should look like. It bolts onto the deck surface and the bolt stops the piston from travelling upwards once it makes contact. To determine tdc you simply install the wheel and piston stop and rotate the engine in both directions until it stops moving. Halfway between those two readings is TDC. Then you simply remove the stop and adjust the degree wheel and you're ready to start. 


Ron

[Belgium R/T -68]

In the kit it's included a stop that goes via the sparkplughole.

[firefighter3931]

In the kit it's included a stop that goes via the sparkplughole.

Yep, that is the piston stop most commonly used....when doing a cam swap/degree-in with the heads still installed and the engine in the car.


Ron

[Belgium R/T -68]

Installed my new woodruffkey and the timingchain. Now it's time to choose headgasket, I've got the 440source ones
with 0.068" uncompressed thickness and the Felpro's (coming in the big gasketset) with an uncompressed thickness of 0.044".
I meassured 0.025"/27" piston to deck so I guess the thinner one is the best choice?

[firefighter3931]

the thinner one is the best choice?

Yep, the .040 compressed gasket is the best choice. 


Ron

[Belgium R/T -68]

Had to go over the oilpickup with a "threadmaker" to get it to fit in the block but now it's there and it will never come loose.
According to the speedshop here it's a common problem with Milodon oilpickups.

Next issue is the damper, can only get it approx 1" on the crank although I boiled it for 15 minutes like the instruction says.
It's a Summit C4279 and I used the grey assembly lube on the crank although it maybe should be oil? Are 440souce cranks known to be
a little bit thicker? Am a little bit stucked for now, any good technics are very welcome.

[FLG]

Get a piece of threaded rod that will thread into the crank, a bolt, and a washer. Thread it all the way into the crank and then start to tighten up the bolt so it pushes the balancer on. Just dont hit it with a hammer! 

[Belgium R/T -68]

I use the correct tool but it doesn't help, it's stucked after 1".

[FLG]

Did you try lubing it up a bit? Should take some* effort to go on.

[firefighter3931]

You might end up having to hone the balancer a bit. Not an uncommon problem with aftermarket cranks. 

Per, have you miced out the snout and balancer to see how much interferance you have ? 



Ron

[Belgium R/T -68]

You might end up having to hone the balancer a bit. Not an uncommon problem with aftermarket cranks. 

Per, have you miced out the snout and balancer to see how much interferance you have ? 



Ron

Miced out the snout? Do you have that in english please?

[firefighter3931]

You might end up having to hone the balancer a bit. Not an uncommon problem with aftermarket cranks. 

Per, have you miced out the snout and balancer to see how much interferance you have ? 



Ron

Miced out the snout? Do you have that in english please?

That was in English, Per 

Miced = measured with a micrometer/caliper etc... 


Ron

[Belgium R/T -68]

Ok, no I didn't but since the timinggear on the crank went ok I thought something could be with the damper.

Maybe I can try assemble an old one to see how that works?

[firefighter3931]

Ok, no I didn't but since the timinggear on the crank went ok I thought something could be with the damper.

Maybe I can try assemble an old one to see how that works?

Per, most of the new timing sets come with slightly oversized (lower) timing gears....i just had this discussion a week ago with a builder. Seems like there is some variation from one manufacturer to the next when it comes to crank snout dimensions....some bigger than stock, some smaller. 


If you have to.... just hone out the SFI balancer to fit. You can also use emory cloth as well....it shouldn't need much material removed. Use anti sieze on the snout as well to help removal should you need to do so in the future. 


Ron

[Belgium R/T -68]

Checked pushrod lenght and preload so I can order new pushrods, the toothpicks I had before doesn't look strong enough.
Looking at the red marks I will have approx 0.035" preload with the lenght I will go for, should be OK?

In the MP rocker and shaftkit the retainer/washer between the rockers wasn't included, are they needed? On the picture I used the old one.