Hey body experts take a look at this, tell me what ya' think

[AKcharger]

One winter project is to replace the vinyl top, I was going to feather out the places where the paint pulled up (adhesion problem on roof) get it smooth and call it good....after epoxy primer,seal and a top coat of course.

My question is how "perfect" does it need to be under the vinyl top...will it show slight imperfections like paint?

Thanks

AK

[tan top]

 will it show under a vinyl top ..dependes on the depth of paint / primer & how well it has been feathered out .  if it were me would really give it a good DAing .... plan on  having about 2-4" of each layer of paint /primer showing with each layer feathered out . .this will still sink /shrink back ..in time , & you will be able to see  slight edges , mapping under the paint , but the vinyl is on it so no probs ,   

[Charger-Bodie]

Id strip it ,Epoxt it , fix what ever dents and or rustand prime it(good primer surfacer), block it down ,seal it and paint it.THEN install the new top.

[tan top]

Id strip it ,Epoxt it , fix what ever dents and or rustand prime it(good primer surfacer), block it down ,seal it and paint it.THEN install the new top.

yep  i agree thats the best way 

[restoman]

Id strip it ,Epoxt it , fix what ever dents and or rustand prime it(good primer surfacer), block it down ,seal it and paint it.THEN install the new top.

Yep, fix it right the first time and then never worry about it again. It won't take that much more time or materials.

[72SE]

I agree, strip it. It doesn't look like the original bondo is adhering very well anyway. You have gone this far and it would be nice to make sure you don't have any rust under that old bondo that will bubble up down the road.

[AKcharger]

Well a little more to the story; I did the body work back in Oct/Nov '05. I fixed the seems and laid down a coat of Eastwoods "rust encaspulator" on the very very few spots that had corrosion. I now recall (I must have suppressed the memory) I was dealing with an adhesion problem back then on the roof. I would prime, smooth and  "DARN...chiped paint...slight bit of filler, smooth out then "DARN...chiped paint...slight bit of filler and on and on. Well I just said screw it, I worked the C Pillar and left most of the roof as is...it was going to be covered anyway.

Well the top kicked my butt and there were some flaws so that's why I'm redoing it. When I pulled up the top it ripped up the paint in the areas I DIDN'T do in '05. Well I was able to scrape 90% of the paint off with a razor blade right down to the bare metal but now that I'm back at the C pillar I'm hitting my work that I did 3 years ago and it's sticking well...hence the need to feather out so I don't have to redo any "good" work

Look here I am under my shade tree the 1st time...yes, a shade tree 

[71ChallengeHer]

Are those Mickey Mouse ears on your head ? 

[superbirdtom]

Well a little more to the story; I did the body work back in Oct/Nov '05. I fixed the seems and laid down a coat of Eastwoods "rust encaspulator" on the very very few spots that had corrosion. I now recall (I must have suppressed the memory) I was dealing with an adhesion problem back then on the roof. I would prime, smooth and  "DARN...chiped paint...slight bit of filler, smooth out then "DARN...chiped paint...slight bit of filler and on and on. Well I just said screw it, I worked the C Pillar and left most of the roof as is...it was going to be covered anyway.

Well the top kicked my butt and there were some flaws so that's why I'm redoing it. When I pulled up the top it ripped up the paint in the areas I DIDN'T do in '05. Well I was able to scrape 90% of the paint off with a razor blade right down to the bare metal but now that I'm back at the C pillar I'm hitting my work that I did 3 years ago and it's sticking well...hence the need to feather out so I don't have to redo any "good" work <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<
ya know ak charger i always use a 8 inch soft pad with 40 or 80 grid red 8 inch stikit discs for stripping just put this soft pad on with the 40 grit and you should be able to strip that roof in an hour, I can do a whole car in a day. so its not worth messing with layers of old paint and crap,   a vinyl topcan't hide everything.   I have done about 10 of them through the years and three convertible tops and 20 headliners,. and I can't stand doing any of it .  take care  Tom

Look here I am under my shade tree the 1st time...yes, a shade tree 

[AKcharger]

Are those Mickey Mouse ears on your head ? 

- No Jackie ear protectors...I think they look cool 
- SB tom...I see your point!

[71ChallengeHer]

Are those Mickey Mouse ears on your head ? 

- No Jackie ear protectors...I think they look cool 
- SB tom...I see your point!

I knew that. 

[superbirdtom]

us dogs out here need to see a large blow up of your black dress.

[hemi-hampton]

 

[SeattleCharger]

Are those Mickey Mouse ears on your head ? 

- No Jackie ear protectors...I think they look cool 
- SB tom...I see your point!

ya, they look cool,       

[71ChallengeHer]

Well a little more to the story; I did the body work back in Oct/Nov '05. I fixed the seems and laid down a coat of Eastwoods "rust encaspulator" on the very very few spots that had corrosion. I now recall (I must have suppressed the memory) I was dealing with an adhesion problem back then on the roof. I would prime, smooth and  "DARN...chiped paint...slight bit of filler, smooth out then "DARN...chiped paint...slight bit of filler and on and on. Well I just said screw it, I worked the C Pillar and left most of the roof as is...it was going to be covered anyway.

Well the top kicked my butt and there were some flaws so that's why I'm redoing it. When I pulled up the top it ripped up the paint in the areas I DIDN'T do in '05. Well I was able to scrape 90% of the paint off with a razor blade right down to the bare metal but now that I'm back at the C pillar I'm hitting my work that I did 3 years ago and it's sticking well...hence the need to feather out so I don't have to redo any "good" work

Look here I am under my shade tree the 1st time...yes, a shade tree 

Seriously, Bill. Look at your hair line and your ear muffs. Now compare the pics.

[SeattleCharger]

or else kinda looks like the flight crew guys in the movie top gun when the planes are taking off of the deck, if he turns and pumps his arms and does a thumbs up while kicking his leg,     

[AKcharger]

OK, lets see if I got this right, this post went from:
- Question about paint feathering under a vinyal top...to
- Suggestion I look like an animated rodent...to
- people wanting to see a lady in a dress...to
- Picture of an animated rodent...to
- guys on an aircraft carrier


Only on DC.com could such a twisted hijacking occur 

[b5blue]

Hey I thought he had his hair done like Princess Leia in STAR WARS!

[Ghoste]

OK, lets see if I got this right, this post went from:
- Question about paint feathering under a vinyal top...to
- Suggestion I look like an animated rodent...to
- people wanting to see a lady in a dress...to
- Picture of an animated rodent...to
- guys on an aircraft carrier


Only on DC.com could such a twisted hijacking occur 

And no mods suspending anyone with severe warnings about their sin.  (hey by tantops post, the questions about repairs under the vinyl were firmly answered anyway  )

[b5blue]

Any worries about the glue attacking body filler under the paint?

[superbirdtom]

you need to paint surface then scuff with 150 grit before applying vinyl top glue. i just use the rattle can 3m stuff it works great will not hurt anything. if you need detailed instructions of how to do the whole procedure let me know.

[b5blue]

Thanks! I got allot of steel to replace behind my rear window before I can put a vinyl top back on!(the rust runs down my trunk gutters)

[AKcharger]

Any worries about the glue attacking body filler under the paint?

Yeah, the paint will seal the body work...no problems after 3 years anyway.

I should have this wrapped up by the 1st of the year, I'll post a "how to" thread