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Rear and dash/console lights quit working on my '73 Charger

Started by elanmars, January 02, 2009, 08:26:58 PM

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elanmars

Sorry I've been very busy with work and don't have time to do a proper search. Any pointers in what it could be causing this and what I can do? First it was the dash/console lights that quit working, now it's the main rear lights-turn signals work though.

any help is appreciated, any steering in the right direction, etc.
thanks!
1969 Dodge Charger, pseudo General Lee., 1973 ratty Dodge Charger.

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Nacho-RT74

check the fuse box... one of the top ones ( dunno remmeber which one ) drives the ouput power from dimmer to lights ( orange wires on back of fuse box )
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

71_Charger_R/T

Yes, Nacho is right the dash lights and tail lights are on the same circuit. The most common thing that happens is that someone will throw something heavy in the trunk and pinch the wire harness to the taillights which in turn blows the fuse. That is the first place I would start looking if the fuse blows again when you put in another one. Look for a spot on the wires where the insulation is nicked or crushed to the point that the copper wire could have touched the body and grounded.

Nacho-RT74

yes they are on same circuit BUT... cluster lights have an extra fuse. Light Switch does have power on this way:

one constant and direct power input, without fuse from ammeter wire splice. This is an input JUST for headlights, what of course output runs directly to dimmner floor switch and then routed to the selected filament on beams. No fuse there I guess because they assume FUSE LINK will blow if some problem there.

next contant power input coming from fuse box ( 20 amps ) to feed on one output to parking, sidemarkers and on another output the dimmer function. This secondary output from dimmer function runs back to fuse box to another fuse ( 5 amps if I recall correctly ) separated from fuse box bars behind fusebox. If you see on back of fuse box, you'll notice a fuse drived by orange wires. Thats the dimmer circuit output.


Thats the reason you can get no cluster and still parking lights... dimmer fuse blowed but not the input to switch.

If yoo loose parking and cluster, then input fuse is the cause.

Since you lost first cluster and later everything, you have actually both blowed, being first the dimmer one and then the input.
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

Nacho-RT74

cigar lighter, glove box light and any extra accesorie plugged on red rubber feed ( map, courtesy ) are dirven by same input fuse.
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html