clearcoating polished metals.

[superbirdtom]

I wanted to pass this on to all the restorers out there.  I have had great success with a product called GLISTEN PC BY POR -15.  it is a clearcoat designed specifically for polished metals that would otherwise tarnish with time. such as a polished aluminum intake manifold.

this clear is as tough as nails and actually gets tougher as water gets onto it. example. I glass beaded a sixpack aluminum intake manifold it looked beautiful and very stock.  this was 10 years ago on a friends charger. he lives next to the sea. and his whole engine compartment after 10 years looked pretty crappy but the intake looked perfect.

example 2.  I have copper roof finials on my home they are highly polished copper ball and spike finials I coated them with glisten 5 years ago and they still look like the day I did it. in the harshest alaskan weather imaginable.

  this stuff really works well and gets tougher as it rains on it weird sounding but true .



after you polish out whatever you are working with aluminum copper steel etc . wipe off the piece with with m.e.k. . prefferably by spraying it through a spray gun or rattle can m.e.k..  then blow off , handle part with latex gloves to not get greasy prints on it then hang it and spray it with glisten.  you will not be dissapointed!!!  thanks  s-birdtom

[AKcharger]

If the finish is glassy smooth how does it adhere? Seems like it would flake off like any  other paint??

[superbirdtom]

If the finish is glassy smooth how does it adhere? Seems like it would flake off like any  other paint??
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it is glassy smooth!  and no it will not flake off ,like I said it is specifically designed just for polished metals.  so when you get a pair of polished aluminum m/p valve covers out of the box just clean and coat them and they will require no polishing period!    I have been doing body work and auto painting and aircraft refinishing since 1974 and have to say its very impressive stuff.

It does take a whole day to dry so you have to have it in a dust free area. after it air dries for a day I would put the part somewhere hot like a furnace room for a week to really let set up.          look it up online----GLISTEN PC BY POR-15

[AKcharger]

hmmmm interesting, Thanks! 

[Ghoste]

Sounds interesting, a whole lot easier than anodizing.

[superbirdtom]

the only thing that comes close is clear electrostatic powdercoating. a fella here in town does that.  all should know that you can get parts candy coated powedercoating too.  he lays out a silver or gold metallic base then coats with a tinted candy clear it looks stunning  especially on suspension parts. he did all the suspension for a 65 mustang that i restored for a fella in electric candy blue. WOW!  it looks great and powdercoating is baked on at 600 degrees and is bullitproof.

[The70RT]

Thats what I used on a lot of my parts. I also put it on my fuel tank. I put it on some of my suspension parts and over some painted Items too. Im glad it held out ok.

[superbirdtom]

boy you must have used it, as a gallon of that stuff is a lot!!.  now for anything other than polished metals i can't say it would be any better than powdercoating etc . but it sure has worked for me all these years later and the copper on my house still looks like the day I did it 5 years ago. it works good on polished car radiators  for customs. thanks Tom

[The70RT]

boy you must have used it, as a gallon of that stuff is a lot!!.  now for anything other than polished metals i can't say it would be any better than powdercoating etc . but it sure has worked for me all these years later and the copper on my house still looks like the day I did it 5 years ago. it works good on polished car radiators  for customs. thanks Tom

I just got a quart. 26oz with 6oz activator. It comes in gloss and semi gloss I got the semi.

[superbirdtom]

what part are you going to use it on?

[The70RT]

what part are you going to use it on?

So far I have used it on my fuel tank & straps, ball joints, tierod ends, draglink, pitman arm all front pieces that are bare metal. Rotors except the braking surface of course. Calipers and any anodized part you want to stay looking new. I have used almost a quart and I am pretty much done. Everytime I mixed some up I had a little extra and found something else to put it on, I even did the brass proportioning valves and even the ends on my brake hoses. 

[superbirdtom]

yeah that is great, as we all know those shiny new parts arn't so shiny in a few months or years.  especially the new gas tanks and straps. with the semi gloss it should look new for many years and no one even knows that it is clear coated.  I wonder if the big boy resto shop pros use it ?

[The70RT]

yeah that is great, as we all know those shiny new parts arn't so shiny in a few months or years.  especially the new gas tanks and straps. with the semi gloss it should look new for many years and no one even knows that it is clear coated.  I wonder if the big boy resto shop pros use it ?

I never heard much about it till I got it. I was just looking for some type of clear at the time and ran on to this. Now after hearing someone put it on the outside of their house and copper looks good after 5 years 

[no318]

Do you have to apply it with an air bruch or paint gun?  Can you brush it on (small things)?

[The70RT]

Do you have to apply it with an air bruch or paint gun?  Can you brush it on (small things)?

Yep spray or just brush it on