Rebuilding my 400, installed gallery plugs, bushing, and timing set

[WH23G3G]

I installed the gallery plugs on the rear by the cam and the one on the front using Permatex thread sealant. I spread it on 3/4 of the way around the nut, leaving the first thread free of sealant as per instructions. The distributor bronze bushing, I punched in using a 1/2" extension flush to the block. The timing set I don't understand. I'm following Don Taylor's Rebuilding the Big Block Mopar Engines. He says put on the cam and crank sprockets and aling the dots with the engine upside down. Does that mean the dots would be point towards each other or on opposite ends? It seems more logical that they would be pointing towards one another so you could tell they are aligned easier. So I did that. Then I put the chain on and I still had the dots pointing towards each other as close as possible. If they are not aligned perfectly it's too close to tell by eye. I used a straightedge too to check alignment just like he did in the book. I then put in the cam lock bolt and tightened to 35lbs-ft. Is that all that holds the cam place? Should it be able to move back and forth? It doesn't seem like that bolt holds it in there so it wouldnt come out. But everything is turns nice and smooth. It was a new timing set I put on. Next step is probably the hardest part, installing rings and then the pistons. I've got a new set of rod nuts and Hastings plain rings. Now I have to get rod bearings oversize .010. Any certain ones? I got Federal Mogul main bearings already installed. Everything has been enjoyable so far putting this engine together, I just hope it all works out. I'm being as extremly careful and clean as possible.

[RD]

there are two galley plugs in the front.. one you can see.. and one, that if looking from the front, you cannot see, but it screws up underneath the one you can see.  make sure you get this one in or you will not have any oil pressure to your rocker assemblies.

the dots will be pointing close to one another... the cam sprocket upside down the crank sprocket right side up.

the cam wont move back and forth (i am assuming its hydraulic) because the lobes are machined in a way to apply pressure to the cam to move backwards instead of forwards during the rotation of the engine.

make sure when you install pistons you cover the rod bolts so that they do not nick the crank journal.

[WH23G3G]

Some of the repair manuals I refer to say to put loctite on the cam bolt. The most detailed manual I refer to is Don Taylor's and he doesn't mention putting locktite on the cam bolt. It seems like if you put loctite on there and wanted to change cams later you wouldn't be able to get it off because everything would just be spinning. Should I leave the loctite off? I already torqued the bolt to 35lbs-ft and it was fairly difficult because everything was turning and I didn't want to jamb even a piece of wood between the fresh crank to keep it from turning, so I just used my other hand to hold it. Isn't there another time I'll have to do some sort of valve timing? Do I need to buy one of those wheels?

[firefighter3931]

Blue loctite is fine....it will break free if you need to disassemble at a later date. 

As for the camshaft degreeing.....i allways degree them in. 



Ron

[WH23G3G]

Do I need to wait until everything is put together to degree the cam? I've still got to put the pistons in. I got my Hastings rings and Pioneer Self Locking Rod Nut kit today. I still have the heads to get done if they need machine work at all. But I've already got new valves. I'm going to also get new rockers, shafts, pushrods, and springs. Because they didn't get put in the proper order when I disassembled the motor. That's where all my money will be spent on the valvetrain.

[RD]

yes.. to degree the cam, you need to identify TDC of the piston.. someone on here did a step by step instruction of degree'ing in a cam.. may wanna search for it.

you dont need the heads on to degree in the cam as it can be done with and without them on.

http://www.iskycams.com/degreeing.html
http://www.cranecams.com/?show=article&id=3
http://www.ridgenet.net/~biesiade/camdegree.htm