Progress Pics - Exhaust Manifolds

[Shakey]

We took my exhaust manifolds off this weekend, my plan was to sandblast them and paint them.  I was tossing around the idea of sending them out to get a ceramic coating but figured I already have the Eastwood's paint, we'll give it a try first.   

First we drained the coolant from the engine to save ourselves a helluva mess.  The driver's side was a bitch to get out.  We had to approach it from both above and below and the last stud we needed to move the steering column back slightly as it was in the way.  We still had the car on stands from the exhaust install and although it was a pain going up and down the small step-ladder, it made things easier when working underneath the car.

The passenger side was a bit easier to remove as we didn't have the steering gear and brake booster to work around.  Again, had to approach from both above and below. 

Oh yeah, not all of the studs are the same so when you remove them from the car I suggest you take a piece of cardboard and poke two rows of six holes and number each row from 1 - 6, keeps track of what stud goes where.

So here are a few photos of the manifolds as they came off the car and a couple after about an hour each in the sandblaster.  They weren't too bad to begin with.

Oh BTW, if you plan on installing the spark plug heat shields and the ignition wire routing kit, do it before you put the manifolds back on the car as some of the items are held in place with the manifold studs.  I painted mine and they are ready to go back on the car, next weekend.

After cleaning the manifolds so the paint would adhere properly, we hung them for painting.  Here's another tip, remember where you painted (all the nooks and crannies) as the paint dries very quickly and it is difficult to tell from the painted and un-painted surface.

And don't forget to detail the hardware also.

[Shakey]

A few more!

[CB]

looking good Shakey
Why you don't want to ad headers together with the TTI exhaust system?

I am not decided how to build my exhaust. I got rusty headers too butIprefer theclean look of the coated ones. But yea, they're big $$$

Thanks for the tips and pics

[70charginglizard]

Don't ya just love that aft driver side exhaust manifold bolt.  

What a bit_h!

Make sure you use the good graphite gaskets when you put those babies back on and not those cheapies you get at smucks. They won't last long and you'll end up having to take them back off in a year or two if you don't.

Good luck.

[8WHEELER]

Never seen the allen head bolt on the manifolds before, on headers only, But I can see
how it can make it easier to work with if they can be tightend enough.

Dan

[Shakey]

Don't ya just love that aft driver side exhaust manifold bolt.  

What a bit_h!

Make sure you use the good graphite gaskets when you put those babies back on and not those cheapies you get at smucks. They won't last long and you'll end up having to take them back off in a year or two if you don't.

Good luck.

I don't know if I will use a gasket - I read that a good bead of copper silicone will do just fine!   

[Shakey]

looking good Shakey
Why you don't want to ad headers together with the TTI exhaust system?

I am not decided how to build my exhaust. I got rusty headers too butIprefer theclean look of the coated ones. But yea, they're big $$$

Thanks for the tips and pics

I know that the headers can increase the performance but I have always understood that they can come loose in time and need to be tightened on a regular basis.  That would not be a big deal, however I am aiming for the stock / factory look when I am finished.

[Shakey]

Never seen the allen head bolt on the manifolds before, on headers only, But I can see
how it can make it easier to work with if they can be tightend enough.

Dan

Hey Dan,

Just regular bolts holding the manifolds on eh?  What size?  How about getting them tight enough - is there a specific torque rating?

[Just 6T9 CHGR]

There are no bolts holding the manifolds on.

They are studs & nuts.

The pass side has 2 long sleeve nuts and the drivers side has 1 short sleeve nut.
All the others are standard nuts & lockwashers.

All the studs go into water on a BB head so use a good teflon sealant on the studs.  Make sure to use plenty of Never-Sieze on the sleeve nuts (inside & outside) Heres a crappy pic.

PS--- Ehrenberg sells a nice kit on ebay.....

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mopar-383-440-Exhaust-Manifold-Hardware-Kit-CORRECT_W0QQitemZ4586422017QQcategoryZ34202QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

[70charginglizard]

Don't ya just love that aft driver side exhaust manifold bolt.  

What a bit_h!

Make sure you use the good graphite gaskets when you put those babies back on and not those cheapies you get at smucks. They won't last long and you'll end up having to take them back off in a year or two if you don't.

Good luck.

I don't know if I will use a gasket - I read that a good bead of copper silicone will do just fine!     

I tell you shakey, Use these:

http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?target=egnsearch.asp&N=4294924707+4294886211

and you won't have any problems at all. Trust me.  


BTY- Your stock HP manifolds look great! Good job. Let me guess....you used that factory grey coating from eastwood?
I have HP man's as well on the lizard and I love um. They just look so appropriate in that engine compartment when recoated.
Header are cool and all if your racing the thing otherwise I'd stick with a stock look. I think they look really old school cool. 

[8WHEELER]

Never seen the allen head bolt on the manifolds before, on headers only, But I can see
how it can make it easier to work with if they can be tightend enough.

Dan

Hey Dan,

Just regular bolts holding the manifolds on eh?   What size?   How about getting them tight enough - is there a specific torque rating?

As Chris said above Richard on ebay sells a set and so do most all out fits like YO
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mopar-383-440-Exhaust-Manifold-Hardware-Kit-CORRECT_W0QQitemZ4586422017QQcategoryZ34202QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Every hole in stock form has a coarse thread stud going into the head and the fine thread on the outside.
Here is another angle of an old set of big block heads.

Dan

[Shakey]

Thanks fellas!

Other than the correct look, do you think there will be any difference if I go with what I have (mounting hardware), even if it is for now?

Keep in mind that this engine has been re-built and broken in, and that's it.  It hasn't been on the road yet.

[Baracda]

Couple of things to consider, first, a gasket is necessary.  I have tried hi-temp copper on a number of engines and it will not seal long term.  It will eventuall blow out.  Even the smallest leak starts a gas-cut and once that happens its a matter of minutes before it opens up a larger hole.  Use a gasket to help seal the irregularities of the cast iron head and manifold.  Copper sealant works well in a THIN layer on both sides of the gasket as you put it in only.

Second, if you dont want to ceramic coat the manifolds then Plasti-Kote makes a 1500 degree paint under part number HP-11 that works well.  The "normal" hi-temp paint is 1200 degrees,  these paints will eventually flake off.  Normal manifold temps on a tuned motor can exceed 800 degrees easily and on a lean or fat motor can easily reach 1200 degrees which will burn off the normal hi-temp paints.

jim

[Just 6T9 CHGR]

Thanks fellas!

Other than the correct look, do you think there will be any difference if I go with what I have (mounting hardware), even if it is for now?

Keep in mind that this engine has been re-built and broken in, and that's it. It hasn't been on the road yet.

I would get the right stuff once......why do it again while its apart now?

(note to self.....take my own advice)