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So what do you big hot engine owners think of Slick 50? I was a dealer.

Started by 1969chargerrtse, December 03, 2008, 08:31:16 PM

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1969chargerrtse

I used to be a dealer for Slick 50 back in the 80's.  I was at a car show and this guy was running a small 3.5 hp engine with NO OIL IN IT!  He was holding it above his head while it was running yelling " Look no oil ! "  I was shocked to say the least.  That's when I learned about Slick 50.  I was so impressed I became a dealer.  At that time it was 45.00 a quart and lasted the entire life of the engine ( you only needed one quart ).  One of the first things I did was buy me of those company engines.  It came with a thick Plexiglas side cover and you could watch the engine crank and cam spin with no oil in the case (that's it next to my arm).  The instructions said to run the engine with Slick 50 in it for 6 non stop hours, and so I did.  One point I would make to customers was how I could run it. then after it was hot, shut it down and let it just sit there and cook, then pull the cord and up she went again.  I sold lots of the product to friends and some at car shows. 45.00 back then would be like 75.00 today.  One friend had pulled his vette engine apart to rebuild it years after using Slick 50.  He noticed white "stuff " at the bottom of the oil pan and asked about it.  One of Slick 50's biggest claim was that the Teflon that was in the oil stayed suspended in the oil.  Something no one else could do.  Then the Teflon would travel throughout the engine and lube everthing, but adhere to the flaws in the cyl walls. What this did was allow your engine to have cyls that were pre lubed, this would reduce much wear on engines as what was thought was that when you start an engine the walls are dry and hence a big part of engine wear.  But with Slick 50 burnt and embedded in micro particles in the pits of the metal walls the cyl were pre lubed.  I sold lots of the stuff to Harley bike owners as I knew from Slick 50 school that the rear cyl ran hotter because it was blocked by the front cyl.  Everyone loved the stuff and I never had a complaint.  As for the white stuff in my buddies pan, a rep explained that the oil is over saturated at the factory and what he saw was just extra Teflon.  What I would do is after adding the one can of Slick 50, cut open the can and scoop the extra Teflon and add it to my small engines.  Lawn mower , snow blower etc....  I also had a 70 caprice 454 2 dr coupe.  I loved that car, rally wheels dual exhaust etc...   When I added the Slick 50 to that big block engine, I actually had to idle it down as the idle picked up speed from what I believe was less friction.  In fact my business card said " Slick 50, who needs friction? "  They also had a Slick 50 gear oil additive for your 4 spd etc...  I put it in that yellow 69 rallly sport conv in the picture and thought the linkage fell off.  I truly could feel the very smooth shifting unlike before adding Slick 50.  One thing that was not recommended was adding it to new motors, the Teflon lubed so well it was thought it would interfere with proper engine break in.  Back then it lasted the life of the engine.  Today the product is much cheaper but If I remember last time I saw a bottle it says for 50,0000 miles or so.  Soon I will be adding it to the Charger.  This rebuilt 440 runs very hot in the summer and I know Slick 50 will reduce friction and allow it to run much cooler along with extending the life.  Any of you out there have any Slick 50 thoughts?  I personally believe, especially by running engines with no oil, that the stuff is fantastic.  What do you think?  Rob.
This car was sold many years ago to somebody in Wisconsin. I now am retired and living in Florida.

RD

heard duralube was just as good.. but to be honest, i have used neither.
67 Plymouth Barracuda, 69 Plymouth Barracuda, 73 Charger SE, 75 D100, 80 Sno-Commander

tan top

i have put it in a few motors years a ago ....no mopars ! & yes did notice the engine seem smoother !  that was back when once added ... your done for the rest of the life of the motor !! .don't know what the deal is now only lasting a certain milage  :shruggy: how can that be if it is the same stuff !! clever marketing  :shruggy: :-\
Feel free to post any relevant picture you think we all might like to see in the threads below!

Charger Stuff 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,86777.0.html
Chargers in the background where you least expect them 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,97261.0.html
C500 & Daytonas & Superbirds
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,95432.0.html
Interesting pictures & Stuff 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,109484.925.html
Old Dodge dealer photos wanted
 http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,120850.0.html

1969chargerrtse

Quote from: RD on December 03, 2008, 08:42:40 PM
heard duralube was just as good.. but to be honest, i have used neither.
I don't know about now, but back then the whole selling point was that only Slick 50 stayed suspended in oil and impregnated in the metal walls.  I actually had in my book, slides of the microscopic particles of the Teflon shown in the metal pores.  No other product could do that.  All other products were only as good as being in the oil as a better lubricant but could not adhere. Meaning if you ran a dura lube motor for 6 hours and then drained the oil, and ran it dry. It would seize. That was the big difference about the Slick 50 product.  It adhered to the motor, making all first starts of the day, pre lubed, whereas the others just make the oil slippier as I was told back then Teflon is the slipperest substance in the world.
This car was sold many years ago to somebody in Wisconsin. I now am retired and living in Florida.

aifilaw

My father ran his ford for right about twice the mileage anyone else's engine required a rebuilt, and without any oil usage... he still drives it today, I think its nearing 300,000 miles and doesn't burn a bit. That's my only experience with it.
In theory it sounds good, and it obviously has a track record. i think the "particles in the oil" business has me worried considering some of the small passages it may have to go through and could clog those passages.
Standard oil should do the job until wear and tear and time take effect.... fact is the necessity for slick 50 in a well-built, properly dimensioned engine is nonexistant till between 50,000 and 100,000 miles in my opinion as long as proper treatment and care of the engine is taken (leaving the engine for a week without starting it, and then the wear that occurs when there is minimal oil on the first few seconds is a good example).

But after 50,000-100,000 when even the best taken care of engines have lost their hone on the cylinder walls, and there are scrapes and possible divots in the bores, the lifters sides are wearing, et cetera, et cetera, ad infinitum, I think is when slick 50 and other teflon sealants show their true usefulness in extending the lifespan greatly.
'72 B5 Metallic Blue Hardtop
426" Wedge - Hydraulic Roller Stealth heads

Chatt69chgr

Brother-in-law put it in both of his Toyta engines and burnt both up shortly after.  Cost him over $5k to fix his 4-runner.  He junked the old pickup he had.  Needless to say, he's not too keen on Slick 50.

I have no personal experience with it myself.

1969chargerrtse

Quote from: Chatt69chgr on December 03, 2008, 11:08:32 PM
Brother-in-law put it in both of his Toyta engines and burnt both up shortly after.  Cost him over $5k to fix his 4-runner.  He junked the old pickup he had.  Needless to say, he's not too keen on Slick 50.

I have no personal experience with it myself.
I find it hard to believe an additive that has micron size particles of Teflon in it had anything to do with it?  One thing also I learned back then doing research on the product was that the Government had been using Teflon in oil in fighter planes as for back as the 40's.  It was so successful in preventing engine wear it was coated on parts also.  Petrolon the maker of Slick 50 was the only company that could get Teflon to stay suspended in the oil and adhere to parts.  I don't remember the size but the particles are in micro size.  They have sold millions of this product and after searching ebay seem to have expanded huge into other products.  I used it in many big blocks I had over the years including my Kawasaki LTD 1000 and many Honda Gold wings.  This year my hot running charger is getting it.
This car was sold many years ago to somebody in Wisconsin. I now am retired and living in Florida.

mikepmcs

do you have any of the old stuff left?  my guess is with anything these days, they have most likely cheapened the product somehow(like rotella, etc...).  I've used it with no issues, but then again i've never kept a car long enough to know.  lucas seems to be the hot lick these days.
Life isn't Father Knows Best anymore, it's a kick in the face on a saturday night with a steel toed grip kodiak work boot and a trip to the hospital all bloodied and bashed.....for reconstructive surgery. But, what doesn't kill us, makes us stronger, right?

1969chargerrtse

Quote from: mikepmcs on December 04, 2008, 06:49:00 AM
do you have any of the old stuff left?  my guess is with anything these days, they have most likely cheapened the product somehow(like rotella, etc...).  I've used it with no issues, but then again i've never kept a car long enough to know.  lucas seems to be the hot lick these days.

No, this was 20 plus years ago.  I would bet anything it is the same great stuff, 100%.  They just got smart and said, You know if we say add it every 50,000 miles instead of only one time we can increase use.  I bought one of the newer plastic bottles years ago and the white Teflon paste of oversaturation was at the bottom of the bottle just like the old time can I used to sell.  Grab a bottle It's great anti wear stuff. :2thumbs:  I forgot to add about increased horse power due to the reduction in friction and heat.
This car was sold many years ago to somebody in Wisconsin. I now am retired and living in Florida.

Mick70RR

1970 Road Runner, 505 cid, 4 speed, GV overdrive, 3.91 gears
11.98 @ 117 on street treads

1969chargerrtse

Quote from: Mick70RR on December 04, 2008, 01:46:26 PM
I don't use oil additives.

http://www.ftc.gov/opa/1997/07/slick.shtm
Wow !!   Amazing.  This means two things to me. 1) I still believe what I wrote as I ran engines dry. 2) I got a lot of money coming to me!!

Amazing article, do I have a good memmory of what I was taught or what?
This car was sold many years ago to somebody in Wisconsin. I now am retired and living in Florida.

1969chargerrtse

Googled the FTC thing about Slick 50 and found this also.    I don't completely agree with what I've been reading.

I'm using Slick in my Charger.  End of story,  Vrooooooooooom.


Another type of additive is zinc dialkyldithiophosphate. Zinc-d is found in Mechanics Brand Engine Tune Up, K Mart Super Oil Treatment, and STP Engine Treatment With XEP2, among others. The touting of zinc-d as a special ingredient in engine oil additives is a little like the Shell ads which touted "Platformate." (Most gasoline has similar additives but under different names.) Zinc-d is an additive in most, if not all, major oil brands. The wonder oils just put more of the stuff in a 50 weight engine oil. It would be useful if your engine were ever operated under extremely abnormal conditions where metal contacts metal: "the zinc compounds react with the metal to prevent scuffing, particularly between cylinder bores and piston rings....unless you plan on spending a couple of hours dragging your knee at Laguna Seca, adding extra zinc compounds to your oil is usually a waste.... Also, keep in mind that high zinc content can lead to deposit formation on your valves, and spark plug fouling" (Rau).

If zinc-d is so good for your engine, why haven't oil manufacturers been putting more of it in their standard mix of oil and additives? Actually, oil companies have been decreasing the amount of zinc-d because the evidence indicates that zinc-d causes deterioration of catalytic converters.

The bottom line is that outside of the testimonials of happy and satisfied customers and the guarantees of company executives about the wonderful effects that studies have shown will follow the use of their products, there isn't much support for using oil additives. Of course, there are those millions of customers who buy the stuff: aren't they proof that these things really work? Not really. They're proof that this stuff really sells!

cleansed, not coated

This car was sold many years ago to somebody in Wisconsin. I now am retired and living in Florida.

suntech

I like it!!
I use it on my Pickup truck , and has used it on several cars i have had. The truck, with a 6,5 TD and 160 K miles on it, runs great, and i use 5-40 synthetic oil. Drops a quart on 10K miles.
I have noticed both better milage, and better pull.
I also used it on 2 stroke outboard motors, and found power gain. 100-150 rpm more, on same prop, and i saw the compression pressure go up after treatment, so it seals better.
I would not be afraid to put it in my Hemi, specially with hydaulic roller setup. :2thumbs:
Since we only live once, and all this is not just a dressed rehearsal, but the real thing............ Well, enjoy it!!!!

1969chargerrtse

I have a new quart right here and it claims a reduction of friction by 17%. That works for me. Less friction is more power, better gas mileage and less HEAT!  Go Slick 50 Go!!
This car was sold many years ago to somebody in Wisconsin. I now am retired and living in Florida.

The70RT

I had a friend that sold his race engine out of his Fairlane to a guy that put it in his truck. I bought the truck and swapped motors with my truck then sold the other truck with my old motor. It was a 351 windsor. I put a can in and I pulled junk cars all day long and floored it everywhere I went and the truck finally was put the rest after it rusted away and then crashed. I bet I put about 100K on it driving it like no tomorrow. Never used any oil. I never opened up the engine but I still got it. I plan on putting it in a Falcon that I have someday. I am just gonna re seal it with new gaskets and carry on  :2thumbs:
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1969chargerrtse

Quote from: The70RT on December 04, 2008, 07:33:20 PM
I had a friend that sold his race engine out of his Fairlane to a guy that put it in his truck. I bought the truck and swapped motors with my truck then sold the other truck with my old motor. It was a 351 windsor. I put a can in and I pulled junk cars all day long and floored it everywhere I went and the truck finally was put the rest after it rusted away and then crashed. I bet I put about 100K on it driving it like no tomorrow. Never used any oil. I never opened up the engine but I still got it. I plan on putting it in a Falcon that I have someday. I am just gonna re seal it with new gaskets and carry on  :2thumbs:
What a great story. Wow, I mean Wow.
This car was sold many years ago to somebody in Wisconsin. I now am retired and living in Florida.

Ghoste

As far as why oil companies are not putting higher levels of zinc in their motor oils, it's because the EPA won't allow them to.  It interferes with catalytic converters over time and it's greatest benefit seems to have been with lifters and camshafts.  With our modern engines all using roller lifters the EPA demand was a no brainer.

Bob

I was stationed at APG Md, and traveled home to upstate NY on the weekends. This was 1985.
I owned a 78 Chevy pickup. It always ran a little low on oil pressure and high on the temp. Gas mileage was, well, not great. The PX offered the SL50 kit at I think 30 bucks and change. I followed the instructions and I could not believe the difference in just the first couple miles. Normal oil pressure, normal temp and gas mileage was great.
Great stuff. Now wheres my endorsement fee :D. Not really, I ran the truck 50 more K then gave the truck to a friend of mine who is still running it.

1969chargerrtse

Quote from: Bob on December 05, 2008, 09:34:51 AM
I was station at APG Md, and traveled home to upstate NY on the weekends. This was 1985.
I owned a 78 Chevy pickup. It always ran a little low on oil pressure and high on the temp. Gas mileage was, well, not great. The PX offered the SL50 kit at I think 30 bucks and change. I followed the instructions and I could not believe the difference in just the first couple miles. Normal oil pressure, normal temp and gas mileage was great.
Great stuff. Now wheres my endorsement fee :D. Not really, I ran the truck 50 more K then gave the truck to a friend of mine who is still running it.

First I would like to tell you the same thing I tell my kids " you get nothing ". Another great story, so how the heck did they get sued?
This car was sold many years ago to somebody in Wisconsin. I now am retired and living in Florida.

defiance

Quote from: Ghoste on December 05, 2008, 12:01:29 AM
As far as why oil companies are not putting higher levels of zinc in their motor oils, it's because the EPA won't allow them to.  It interferes with catalytic converters over time and it's greatest benefit seems to have been with lifters and camshafts.  With our modern engines all using roller lifters the EPA demand was a no brainer.

Actually, most modern oils have dramatically reduced levels...  The zinc additives might not have made sense a while back, but now they are VITAL for old non-roller engines. 

Slick 50?  Not convinced.  Zinc?  I'll take my flat tappet cam non-wiped, thanks :)

62 Max

15 yrs ago there were dozens of aftermarket vendors that marketed basically the same products under different names.All contained the highly touted the miracle "PTFE Resins" .Where are they now? Sort of like the lifetime guarantee "Triple Edge Wiper Blades and Super Fire Ignitor" spark plugs.The aftermarket industry make millions marketing products that are the same as O.E.M. and in some cases not as good.At a local fair years ago a guy was selling a super coil adaptor.Had a large tachometer connected to a running mid 80,s Ford LTD.Pulled the coil wire,popped this thing in and the tach showed a 500rpm increase.$19.95 and the guy couldn't sell them fast enough.What they didn't know was that there was a foot operated cable connected to the throttle linkage,just put his foot on it when he inserted the adaptor and bingo,500more rpm's.Two days into the fair he was gone.

Ghoste

Let's not forget fuel line magnets or air intake "turbulators".  :lol:  I don't know, I still haven't figured out if this thread is a product review or an infomercial. :shruggy:

1969chargerrtse

Quote from: Ghoste on December 05, 2008, 12:41:56 PM
Let's not forget fuel line magnets or air intake "turbulators".  :lol:  I don't know, I still haven't figured out if this thread is a product review or an infomercial. :shruggy:
Hum bug. Not an infomercial I promise you. I was reading another thread about how these engines run hot on todays fuel. I was thinking how my 440 runs hot in hot weather and what I could do to get it cooler and that's when I remembered my ole friend Slick. So I went through some old 25 year old pictures and dug out one when I was thinner, had hair, lots of cars, and sold good ole Slick 50. Nothing more, just thought I would share it. Tomorrow I'll take a few rides in that beautful thing, right after I add a quart of............Good ole Slick 50!   No infomercial here?  Ha ha.




This car was sold many years ago to somebody in Wisconsin. I now am retired and living in Florida.

1969chargerrtse

Oooooops posted by accident. Sorry no delete button.  Hard to tell what I clicked on this little Iphone. 
This car was sold many years ago to somebody in Wisconsin. I now am retired and living in Florida.

Runner

im a little embarrassed to post this story but here goes. when i was in the navy and on a criuse several years ago had the main and rod bearings go out of the 383 she paid some local hack to put a crank kit in it and he caught the car on fire but was able to get it put out before it burnt to the grount. a few years later in the early 90s the car was still being used as a daily driver in saltlake city. one day when i was out getting my daughter the car lost oil presure and i was caught in traffic. i had my 3 year old daughter with me. it took me a few minutes to get the car off the busy street and into the k mart parking lot so i could buy some oil, the lifters where rattling like crazy.    fast forward a few years later when im vback home in idaho, the roadrunner had sence been taken out of daily driver status. i pulled the motor out to rebiuld the tired old 170k 383. the crankshaft looked pretty good, all it needed was a light polishing even after being ran with oit oil for a good bit.   guess what kind of oil additive i used in that thing?

71 roadrunner 452 e heads  11.35@119 mph owned sence 1984
72 panther pink satellite sebring plus 383 727
68 satellite 383 4 speed  13.80 @ 102 mph  my daily driver
69 superbee clone 440    daughters car
72 dodge dart swinger slant six

flyinlow

With all the trouble the Big 3 are in maybe someone should tell them about this stuff. They could increase gas milage across the board.

With the reduced friction we could build 440 Chargers again!

Runner

Quote from: flyinlow on December 05, 2008, 08:25:34 PM
With all the trouble the Big 3 are in maybe someone should tell them about this stuff. They could increase gas milage across the board.

With the reduced friction we could build 440 Chargers again!
warrenty claims might kill them.   theres a reason no one uses it anymore

71 roadrunner 452 e heads  11.35@119 mph owned sence 1984
72 panther pink satellite sebring plus 383 727
68 satellite 383 4 speed  13.80 @ 102 mph  my daily driver
69 superbee clone 440    daughters car
72 dodge dart swinger slant six

flyinlow


Runner


71 roadrunner 452 e heads  11.35@119 mph owned sence 1984
72 panther pink satellite sebring plus 383 727
68 satellite 383 4 speed  13.80 @ 102 mph  my daily driver
69 superbee clone 440    daughters car
72 dodge dart swinger slant six

FLG

Well i bought a quart today, might try it in the charger...also should have bought one for my pathfinder daily driver...car has ALWAYS made lifter noise on first startup on a cold day...will be interesting to see if it makes a difference.

Tilar

I use it in two of my vehicles... My 95 Lumina that has 130k miles on it. Runs great and still gets 30 mpg on the highway running 70+ mph.

I also use it in my 184k mile Suburban. I get roughly 14 mpg running 70+mph on the highway. It has a 454 in it.
Dave  

God must love stupid people; He made so many.



1969chargerrtse

Quote from: Tilar on December 07, 2008, 08:24:21 PM
I use it in two of my vehicles... My 95 Lumina that has 130k miles on it. Runs great and still gets 30 mpg on the highway running 70+ mph.

I also use it in my 184k mile Suburban. I get roughly 14 mpg running 70+mph on the highway. It has a 454 in it.
I have a 1998 Pontiac Transport.  Slick 50 or not those GM minivans as far back as the composite models ( 1990 to 1996 ) last forever.  My 91 Transport had over 300,000 miles on it ( and it did have Slick in it ) .  If you ever get a bad leak under the motor and you think it's the rear main seal, it ain't.  The dist rubber O ring hardens and cracks and then leaks down the rear on the block.  Cost ya .25 cents to fix and take about 30 min.  Pull the dist, replace the O ring, stick it back in, fixed. :2thumbs:
This car was sold many years ago to somebody in Wisconsin. I now am retired and living in Florida.

The70RT

Quote from: 1969chargerrtse on December 08, 2008, 06:35:31 AM
Quote from: Tilar on December 07, 2008, 08:24:21 PM
I use it in two of my vehicles... My 95 Lumina that has 130k miles on it. Runs great and still gets 30 mpg on the highway running 70+ mph.

I also use it in my 184k mile Suburban. I get roughly 14 mpg running 70+mph on the highway. It has a 454 in it.
I have a 1998 Pontiac Transport.  Slick 50 or not those GM minivans as far back as the composite models ( 1990 to 1996 ) last forever.  My 91 Transport had over 300,000 miles on it ( and it did have Slick in it ) .  If you ever get a bad leak under the motor and you think it's the rear main seal, it ain't.  The dist rubber O ring hardens and cracks and then leaks down the rear on the block.  Cost ya .25 cents to fix and take about 30 min.  Pull the dist, replace the O ring, stick it back in, fixed. :2thumbs:

Yep.....and the newer models are like that too. They don't have a dist. but there is a plug there that leaks on them......some are a pain to get to.
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badass

mopars best **** the rest