WIW Dusters?

[WingCharger]

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[mikepmcs]

I'd definitely go look at them, I like the negotiable one myself depending on the damage, but consider this, you buy them both for less than $1400 and maybe the same year(parts) and you are in there brother.  Make one ride and sell off what you have left.
Dad, not a bad idea for a Father/Son trip to go and see these rides, this doesn't look like a poor investment on either ride IMHO. As long as there isn't too much undercarriage rot, etc......
you know the deal.

v/r
Mike

[terrible one]

I'm with Mike, I'd go look at them both! Of course I'd be curious about the $1,000 one since there are no pictures and it's a runner. Just ask your dad if he would rather have you spending all your time putting blood sweat and tears into a project that both of you can see develop or spending all your time running around with friends getting blitzed.

[69bronzeT5]

Like the other guys said, I'd go look at them. Check the chassis, that's the main thing. My '73 runs and drives (needs a starter), the body is in really good shape, the interior is decent and the chassis is MINT. I paid $800 for it and it has a 318. But that's a '73, the '72s are more desirable.

[WingCharger]

Like the other guys said, I'd go look at them. Check the chassis, that's the main thing. My '73 runs and drives (needs a starter), the body is in really good shape, the interior is decent and the chassis is MINT. I paid $800 for it and it has a 318. But that's a '73, the '72s are more desirable.

Not to me...I prefer the '73s and '74s.

[TUFCAT]

SO DO I!!!!  73 was the best year in my opinion! 

[Ghoste]

I'm partial to 71 myself but I have some fond memories of a black 73 340 car.

[The70RT]

I like the 72 with the shark tooth grille. I took a not so ragity 73 340 duster and put the motor and trans and all the disc brake suspension and 8-3/4 rear in a rust free 72 then sold it years ago  .....cheap Still got tons of Duster crap. Maybe someday it will be worth something.

[Blown70]

Well my advice beav.

BUY a RUNNER.  Often times you spend the extra bux, plus some to get a NON runner to a running state. HOWEVER, some peoples Idea of RUNNING, and RUNNING and DRIVING are very different.  My advice the look at the runner first and see what that looks like.  Or email and get pics....

Tom

[Old Moparz]

I'd look at both no matter what, it'll give you a better idea of what you get for your money. Depending on the condition of the running car, it sounds like the better way to go. Unless you just needed a parts car, buying an incomplete car will kill you in the long run trying to gather all the parts missing. If they're the same year, & the "body only" car is solid, then buying both may not be a bad idea if you can afford to.

There are some differences in all the years the Dusters were made, so be careful with what you might "think" will interchange. I still have my 1971 Scamp, which is a Dart body with a Duster nose, & have had two other Dusters, a 1973 & a 1975, & also had a 1976 Dart Sport.

1)  The early ones, 1970 to 1972, use the smaller, 4" bolt pattern on the wheels.

2)  The floors in the 1974/75 & up, have a raised area under the driver's seat to clear the catalytic converter. The driver's side, seat track on a bench seat, or the seat tracks on the driver's bucket seat, will be different because of the floor height.

3)  Hoods for 1970 to 1972 are the one style, & hoods from 1973 & up are another. (Fenders too maybe?)

4)  Later models, not sure which year they started, have upper door pads of hard plastic. (They look similar to the '68 to '70 Charger pads on a door.) No padding & vinyl to dry out & crack, but they are fragile on the backside where the metal clips hold them to the door. They may look decent, but you might not be able to get them to stay in place without a lot of plastic repairs.


They rust in typical locations like other cars, but a couple of the problem areas to look at are.....

1)  The firewall just below the cowl. That area will rot from the inside out since water sits in there if the drain holes for the cowl get blocked.

2)  The center of the trunk pan. This is where the spare tire sits under the hard, fiber board, & trunk mat. Not a big deal on a B-Body, but the gas tank straps on A-Bodies hook onto a metal support that is welded to the tire well.

[WingCharger]

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[69bronzeT5]

It won't hurt to look.