trouble finding 1st gear (A833 4-speed)

[Charger-Bodie]

What fluid are you running in your transmission?

How new is it?

Does it seem worse after driving a while and the fluid gets warm?

Yes, fluid was replaced after the clutch install.  Shifting becomes easier, not harder, after the fluid has warmed up.  Seriously, it's like trying to shift w/o the clutch engaged when it's cold.  (2nd gear only)
To explain it better, it either feels like hitting a wall or it will actually grind the gears slightly, so I stay away from 2nd until I have a good 5 miles in.

I feel the comments here have been 'spot on'.  Especially from 'red79'.  The tailshaft needed a new seal and bearing as well.  This helped in the overall vibrations I had been seeing.   So, I suspect this winter I'll have to pull it and have it rebuilt.  Just trying to prolong that at least until mid Oct.

What fluid did you put in it?

[c00nhunterjoe]

i agree with syncros but not with laying your hand on the shifter, if  your stops are adjusted right then it wont matter

[Charger-Bodie]

i agree with syncros but not with laying your hand on the shifter, if  your stops are adjusted right then it wont matter

That's if you have a competition plus shifter,and most dont.

[62 Max]

i agree with syncros but not with laying your hand on the shifter, if  your stops are adjusted right then it wont matter

That's if you have a competition plus shifter,and most dont.

You beat me to it!

[CB]

well I used a good spray of WD40 and it did the trick, it loosend up the shifter.
Much better shifting but still needs an overhaul.

[EccentricMagpies]

[/quote]

What fluid did you put in it?
[/quote]

I didn't ask but I'll find out.

[EccentricMagpies]

sorry...took a while finding that slip... found it in the trunk.


80/90 was put in...

[EccentricMagpies]

What fluid are you running in your transmission?

How new is it?

Does it seem worse after driving a while and the fluid gets warm?

Yes, fluid was replaced after the clutch install.  Shifting becomes easier, not harder, after the fluid has warmed up.  Seriously, it's like trying to shift w/o the clutch engaged when it's cold.  (2nd gear only)
To explain it better, it either feels like hitting a wall or it will actually grind the gears slightly, so I stay away from 2nd until I have a good 5 miles in.

I feel the comments here have been 'spot on'.  Especially from 'red79'.  The tailshaft needed a new seal and bearing as well.  This helped in the overall vibrations I had been seeing.   So, I suspect this winter I'll have to pull it and have it rebuilt.  Just trying to prolong that at least until mid Oct.

What fluid did you put in it?

A friend told me that I should be running regular transmission oil.  Automatic oil.  Any truth to that or is the 80/90 oil what I want/need?

thanks,
John

[Charger-Bodie]

80/90 is what you should have in there. Anything thinner will multply the problem in my experience.

[EccentricMagpies]

80/90 is what you should have in there. Anything thinner will multply the problem in my experience.

Well that part is good to know... that just leaves me with the rebuilding part I guess.

[dstryr]

I rebuilt mine summer of '09 due to a broken shift fork and it was very hard to downshift from 2nd to 1st as well.  Synchros were badly worn.  If you are mechanically inclined and have a few tools you can do this yourself.  The resto guide suggests using a press to push out the countershafts but had a little help and we used a long brass drift and hammer to gently tap them out.   Also a good set of lock ring pliers is a must.   

[watt340]

With the engine off, can you shift the transmission down into 1st easily? If so, then  I would suggest that your input shaft is spinning all the time while the engine is running which could be a bellhousing to crankshaft alignment issue. The factory service manual suggests .005" runout or less.
If you originally had synthetic gear lube in there it will create problems like you describe. Even after changing to 80/90, you won't get the synthetic off of the areas where the stop ring (syncronizer ring in GM terms) rides on the input shaft.
Two other issues could be the input shaft dog teeth are rounded, or possibly the stop ring  dog teeth are rounded.

[EccentricMagpies]

With the engine off, can you shift the transmission down into 1st easily?

Actually.. it shifts without any trouble if the car is running and I'm at a complete stop.  I can go through all gears as if there is not a problem.

The only problem is, when the car is cold (less than ~5 miles driven)
   - if I'm starting off in first, second just isn't an option, so I automatically go to third with no problems.  If I have to downshift, second gear is not an option here (until the miles > ~5)... so it's back to first.

[EccentricMagpies]

With the engine off, can you shift the transmission down into 1st easily? If so, then  I would suggest that your input shaft is spinning all the time while the engine is running which could be a bellhousing to crankshaft alignment issue. The factory service manual suggests .005" runout or less.
If you originally had synthetic gear lube in there it will create problems like you describe. Even after changing to 80/90, you won't get the synthetic off of the areas where the stop ring (syncronizer ring in GM terms) rides on the input shaft.
Two other issues could be the input shaft dog teeth are rounded, or possibly the stop ring  dog teeth are rounded.

I'm sorry.. i probably should not have 'hi-jacked' this thread.  It seemed to fit my symptoms I was seeing in my trans. 
Sorry for the confusion, and thanks for all of the responces.  I will probably be considering a rebuild next spring.
I'll try to only 'refer' to postings and start a fresh thread with my issues next time.

Thanks again,
John