Burnt '69 up for auction

[moparstuart]

Only thing that would cause a fire in an unmolested car would be the amp gauge.  But if someone was tinkering around with putting in aftermarket gauges didn't know what they were doing, I still doubt that would cause a fire there.  Another reason to leave everything the way Ma Mopar intended it to be.

If he got 85k out of it maybe he needed the cash and started the fire    what i cant be the only one thinking it  ?

[Hemidoug]

The amp gauge is a known fire hazard....many cars have had the same thing happen. Best way to avoid this problem is to convert to a voltage gauge. I know when I have mine done this winter that is what I'm going to do.....

[Charger_Fan]

Man, regardless of how that fire started, that's a terrible ending to see of what was once a really sweet lookin' car.

[The70RT]

The amp gauge is a known fire hazard....many cars have had the same thing happen. Best way to avoid this problem is to convert to a voltage gauge. I know when I have mine done this winter that is what I'm going to do.....

I sent mine in a couple weeks ago and they called a couple days ago and asked If I wanted it converted to volts and I went ahead and said go ahead and do it. It will cost me a extra 75 though.

[69bronzeT5]

that's a terrible ending to see of what was once a really sweet lookin' car.

It could just be me..but it looks fixable.

[rav440]

that's a terrible ending to see of what was once a really sweet lookin' car.

It could just be me..but it looks fixable.

mostly anything is fixable , but theres going to be alot of sheet metal damage from the heat . the roof has to be toast & also the doors .

so explaine to me more please about this AMP meter being so dangerous 

[hemi-hampton]

If he paid $38k but got $85k is the Hemi & 4 Speed really worth about $50,000 more LEON.

[Ghoste]

Only to an appraiser who closely follows the annual Barrett-Jackson televised value guide.  In real life your results may vary.

[squeakfinder]

that's a terrible ending to see of what was once a really sweet lookin' car.

It could just be me..but it looks fixable.

mostly anything is fixable , but theres going to be alot of sheet metal damage from the heat . the roof has to be toast & also the doors .

so explaine to me more please about this AMP meter being so dangerous 

The problem with the amp gauge;
                     
      12 volts are on that gauge at all times. If a connection somewhere along the line gets loose, there will be resistance and that can equal a lot of heat.
                     

[Hemidoug]

that's a terrible ending to see of what was once a really sweet lookin' car.

It could just be me..but it looks fixable.

mostly anything is fixable , but theres going to be alot of sheet metal damage from the heat . the roof has to be toast & also the doors .

so explaine to me more please about this AMP meter being so dangerous 

The problem with the amp gauge;
                     
      12 volts are on that gauge at all times. If a connection somewhere along the line gets loose, there will be resistance and that can equal a lot of heat.
                     

NO NO NO!!!!! The original gauge measures the output from the Alternator in AMPS. That means the every stinking electrode that the alt puts out has to travel through the fire wall, into that gauge, and get distributed from there. Given the amount of juice that has to flow through the gauge and 40 year old wires, it becomes and electrical hazard. The "new" gauge measures in volts and does not DRAW as much in the way of current, there by eliminating the hazard.....

[rav440]

that's a terrible ending to see of what was once a really sweet lookin' car.

It could just be me..but it looks fixable.

mostly anything is fixable , but theres going to be alot of sheet metal damage from the heat . the roof has to be toast & also the doors .

so explaine to me more please about this AMP meter being so dangerous 

The problem with the amp gauge;
                     
      12 volts are on that gauge at all times. If a connection somewhere along the line gets loose, there will be resistance and that can equal a lot of heat.
                     

NO NO NO!!!!! The original gauge measures the output from the Alternator in AMPS. That means the every stinking electrode that the alt puts out has to travel through the fire wall, into that gauge, and get distributed from there. Given the amount of juice that has to flow through the gauge and 40 year old wires, it becomes and electrical hazard. The "new" gauge measures in volts and does not DRAW as much in the way of current, there by eliminating the hazard.....

this is a gauge cluster from a 73 rr / CHARGER is this a volt gauge or amp gauge ? other words how do i remmety this 

[Ghoste]

It's an ammeter (amp guage) and voltmeter conversions are in the electrical forum.  One tipoff (aside from the fact that Mopars all used ammeters for many years) is that it is as Doug explained showing alternator output in a charge or discharge state (which is why when you turn on your key, the guage should go to discharge before it actually begins running).  Voltmeters will rise from a zero point to the system voltage when the car is turned on. (no discharge indication)
From a crude perspective anyway, I'm sure one of the electrical techies will have a better way to explain it.

[The70RT]

Also if you notice almost all the amp gauges start turning brown over the years. I never had a problem but my gauge was discolored and I couldn't get one of the nuts loose to get the terminal off and you could see there was a lot of heat in the area. I bought new wiring anyway and with the changing the gauge to volts hopefully it will be good to go for years to come.

[squeakfinder]

that's a terrible ending to see of what was once a really sweet lookin' car.

It could just be me..but it looks fixable.

mostly anything is fixable , but theres going to be alot of sheet metal damage from the heat . the roof has to be toast & also the doors .

so explaine to me more please about this AMP meter being so dangerous 

The problem with the amp gauge;
                     
      12 volts are on that gauge at all times. If a connection somewhere along the line gets loose, there will be resistance and that can equal a lot of heat.
                     

NO NO NO!!!!! The original gauge measures the output from the Alternator in AMPS. That means the every stinking electrode that the alt puts out has to travel through the fire wall, into that gauge, and get distributed from there. Given the amount of juice that has to flow through the gauge and 40 year old wires, it becomes and electrical hazard. The "new" gauge measures in volts and does not DRAW as much in the way of current, there by eliminating the hazard.....

There's voltage going to it at all times. I do know current and voltage are two different things, but its the bulkhead connector (witch tends to get loose) and the old wiring's copper strands which get corroded that cause resistance and heat.

I suppose I should have said it differently but technically I don't see why the car couldn't have caught on fire after it was parked.

[Ghoste]

So if take the two leads off the back of the amp guage when the ignition switch is in the off position and touch them together, I should get a spark?

[squeakfinder]

No, take the hot lead from the amp gauge and ground it, then you'll get a spark.



Testing me aren't you..

[Ghoste]

Not really, electrical is one of my weak points.

[Just 6T9 CHGR]

So if take the two leads off the back of the amp guage when the ignition switch is in the off position and touch them together, I should get a spark?

No spark....
Doing this bypasses the ammeter & completes the circuit.  This is how I bypassed mine.  Took 1 terminal off 1 leg of the ammeter & put it together with the other terminal on the other leg of the ammeter.
I run an aftermarket voltmeter hidden under the dash....

[Ghoste]

Does it complete the circuit?  Doesn't it still have to have a switch turned on somewhere in the circuit?

[Just 6T9 CHGR]

Yes, the ign switch.  try and start the car without the inst cluster installed and you'll see what I mean (ammeter wires disconnected)
Power comes in from the batt, to the ign switch, through the ammeter & back out to the battery (simplified)

[squeakfinder]

Not really, electrical is one of my weak points.

Sorry, I thought I was being tested for being a hack. What 6T9Charger said, you would be bypassing the amp gauge.

I'm not arguing what Hemidoug said either because he's wright. The current flow is what probably causes wiring and connections to break down in the first place. The current or amperage flows threw the wire like water flows threw a garden hose, constrict it and you have problems.

I can just see one piece of wire a few inches long getting so hot to the point of melting the insulation away, and then the bare wire's lay some where under the dash against metal which is tied to the ground post of the battery the result is a toasted Charger.

[Ghoste]

And I have moved Mopars before with the cluster removed and the ammeter leads bolted together.  I didn't get sparks when I did it and I assumed it was because the ignition switch was off so when you said it had power there at all times, I was lost.  I'm easily lost though.

[squeakfinder]

It's my fault, I don't word things well. It's why I don't talk much.

[moparstuart]

So if take the two leads off the back of the amp guage when the ignition switch is in the off position and touch them together, I should get a spark?

one hell of one

[Ghoste]

Alright, now I'm still messed up on this.  Stuart says I'm going to get an uproariously funny hell of a spark and you and Chris are telling me that there'll be no current there until a switch is closed (ignition, dome lamp whatever).  So which is it?