What's SUPPOSED to hold the rear seat in place??

[jb666]

Tonight, I began my interior stripdown project. I was surprised to see that my back seat literally lifted right out. There was NOTHING holding the (bottom) part of the seat in. The backrest was loosely placed onto the rear "hooks", which took no effort to remove.

Any pictures would be appreciated.

Thanks!

BTW, it's a '69 Charger.

[Ghoste]

There are a pair of wire loops on the back edge of the seat that go into a bracket on the floor and a notched sort of affair on the floor for the front edge.

[jb666]

Well, I have the notch/bracket for the front of the seat to slide into but the back of the (cushion section) has nothing to fasten to. I was looking for the hoops on the seat frame itself and it's just not there..

I'll snap a couple of pictures.

[Ghoste]

Looking at the manual and jogging my foggy mind the back part may be 66-67 stuff.  The 69 just has the bracket for the front edge.  Sorry about that.

[jb666]

Looking at the manual and jogging my foggy mind the back part may be 66-67 stuff.  The 69 just has the bracket for the front edge.  Sorry about that.

Don't be sorry! Thanks for helping me out!!

I'm sure the "squeak squeak squeak" will be gone when I've got 2 layers of dynamat and one layer of TC under the seat.. Right now it's annoying how much noise this seat base makes while driving...

I'm sure the car will be a bit stiffer after the cage is done this week 

[Ghoste]

They get pretty banged up after 40 years huh?  I had quite a time trying to bend my seats back to shape when I recovered them this past summer.  They fit into the brackets much tighter now.

[tatrick2me]

The back half dropes down over the two hooks and there should be two tabs made to the floor at the bottom. The frame loop that sticks down on each side of the seat back goes over the tabs and you bend them over. On the seat bottom the seat back holds the bottom at the rear. If the back is on the tabs right you'll have to push like hell to get the bottom front to go into the slots.

[BB1]

Your butt. 

[jb666]

Your butt. 

Nah, that normally houses my head, it can't do both.

[Back N Black]

I thought your car was a fresh restore?

[jb666]

I thought your car was a fresh restore?

Please. Me too. The more I tear into this car the more I realize it was one of the biggest hack jobs done on a car that I've ever seen(Second to HLPAG). It LOOKS nice, but look under the shiny surface and it's a polished turd. I've already put $10k into it since buying it, and have a LONG way to go.The car will be pristine, but it'll take me a year+ to do it. I've said it before, and I'll say it again, had I known some of these issues up front, I still would have bought the car, but terms would have been different. This car needs a LOT of work and some of the major issues were glassed over during the "restoration".

The car's hitting the frame shop tonight for a few days where a custom tubular roll cage is being built and certain "frame modifications" are being done. These are things that any "full restoration" shop would have(AND SHOULD HAVE)been done while building the car.

I love the car, and the project (primarily because of the drive-train), but the surprises were a bit much.

[Back N Black]

I thought your car was a fresh restore?

Please. Me too. The more I tear into this car the more I realize it was one of the biggest hack jobs done on a car that I've ever seen(Second to HLPAG). It LOOKS nice, but look under the shiny surface and it's a polished turd. I've already put $10k into it since buying it, and have a LONG way to go.The car will be pristine, but it'll take me a year+ to do it. I've said it before, and I'll say it again, had I known some of these issues up front, I still would have bought the car, but terms would have been different. This car needs a LOT of work and some of the major issues were glassed over during the "restoration".

The car's hitting the frame shop tonight for a few days where a custom tubular roll cage is being built and certain "frame modifications" are being done. These are things that any "full restoration" shop would have(AND SHOULD HAVE)been done while building the car.

I love the car, and the project (primarily because of the drive-train), but the surprises were a bit much.

WOW! sorry to hear that, did you discuss it with the former owner? I think he is a member on this site.

[jb666]

I thought your car was a fresh restore?

Please. Me too. The more I tear into this car the more I realize it was one of the biggest hack jobs done on a car that I've ever seen(Second to HLPAG). It LOOKS nice, but look under the shiny surface and it's a polished turd. I've already put $10k into it since buying it, and have a LONG way to go.The car will be pristine, but it'll take me a year+ to do it. I've said it before, and I'll say it again, had I known some of these issues up front, I still would have bought the car, but terms would have been different. This car needs a LOT of work and some of the major issues were glassed over during the "restoration".

The car's hitting the frame shop tonight for a few days where a custom tubular roll cage is being built and certain "frame modifications" are being done. These are things that any "full restoration" shop would have(AND SHOULD HAVE)been done while building the car.

I love the car, and the project (primarily because of the drive-train), but the surprises were a bit much.

WOW! sorry to hear that, did you discuss it with the former owner? I think he is a member on this site.

Nah, I didn't. I don't feel that it's worth it. Either he didn't know about all of these problems and it would be a surprise to him, OR, he was absolutely mortified to get a car back that he had over $70k into to find all of this crap. If it was the second option, he probably just wanted to dump it before he had to put another $15-20k into it.

I tell you, it would have depressed me beyond belief if I paid to have this car "restored". It's a JOKE... But like I said, at least this way I'll know 100% that the car is done right, safe, reliable and not going to give me headaches.. I think I would have been bored if the car was the condition I ASSumed it was 

[tatrick2me]

Old saying goes, "if you want it done right do it yourself".  The big problem with mopars is that people never did and still don't know how to care for them. Chevy and Ford are just hunks of iron. But mopars are alive and one has to care for them like a fine woman. Talk sweet to a mopar or woman and they'll never let you down. Treat them bad and both of them will leave you on the side of the road.

[Ghoste]

And they'll both put you in the poor house.

[jb666]

Well, things went from OK to worse this morning when the entire under-hood wiring harness fried.. What a joke this was... On the firewall where everything's connected were wires jammed in with speaker connections, electrical tape and other misc connectors.. What a hack job!! 

So, I have a whole new harness coming for next week's fun!

[Ghoste]

If all you lost was the harness then you are lucky, it could have been a lot worse.  All the same, I'm sorry to hear you had another issue with the car.

[jb666]

If all you lost was the harness then you are lucky, it could have been a lot worse.  All the same, I'm sorry to hear you had another issue with the car.

No biggie.. It all happens for a reason 

[jb666]

Speaking of the back seat.. When they were doing the cage , they discovered that the rear seat (bottom) was resting on the positive battery cable (battery in the trunk) which was resting on a sharp lip.. Gee, that would have been quite the shocking experience for anyone sitting on the back seat when the insulation wore off. 

[tatrick2me]

Do yourself a favor, get a new dash harness to. When fries at the main bulkhead as a rule you'll have fried wires on the other side to. And by all use a fuseable link. Don't run a hard wire into the car. One other thing make sure the burn didn't fry your amp gauge. It's comman for the amp gauge to fry with a wire burn. Test it before you power it up. You can't see it when one fries unless you take it out. And the short a fried causes will drive you nuts replacing fuse links.

[jb666]

Do yourself a favor, get a new dash harness to. When fries at the main bulkhead as a rule you'll have fried wires on the other side to. And by all use a fuseable link. Don't run a hard wire into the car. One other thing make sure the burn didn't fry your amp gauge. It's comman for the amp gauge to fry with a wire burn. Test it before you power it up. You can't see it when one fries unless you take it out. And the short a fried causes will drive you nuts replacing fuse links.

Luckily, everything inside the car is fine.. WHAT'S LEFT OF IT. I think Mickey & Minny did the wiring inside the car.. All of the gauges were supposedly (key word) rebuilt, yet the only one that worked was the amps.. That's still working. We're going through the whole thing now. I have no interior lights.. In fact, they buried the dome light when they re-did the headliner.. The console wasn't even bolted down and there's no wires running to the console lights.. It's just a mess... But, not for long.