Am I over doing it? My plan for a street monster...

[CB]

my plan:

Fully remanufactured long block (440) to precision specifications @ Portland
Engine Rebuilders.
Carburetor:   770 Holley 770 avenger
Intake: Holley street dominator intake manifold
Cam: Engle custom grind : K56 intake lobe/k58 exhaust lobe ground on a 110 lsa
Stall converter: turbo action/ the 11in "street Hemi" converter (17501)
Electronic ignition kit with spark plug wires and plugs
TTI exhaust system with ceramic coated headers, 3 inch
727 TF Transmission    -…   not 100% sure wich one
3:55 gears
extra heavy duty leaf springs          
Valve covers, air filter,…
& lifter kit, correct valve springs to match cam, chrome-molly steel retainers & valve keepers, Manley stainless steel valves, pocket porting & polishing the valve bowls in heads, torque plate honing the block for maximum ring seal, brass soft plug kit, & a true roller timing chain set. Hi-torque starter motor, alternator internally regulated charging system, water pump, thermostat & housing, fan belt, & any other related small parts.
______________________________________________________
what trans would be better?
727  Street Trans (STREET BEEF) / $795.00
or
727  PerformanceTrans (PRO / STREET) / $949.95


1) what is a  'bolt in sprag' and do I need it?
2) what do I need if I buy the pro/street trans : Reverse Pattern Manual valve body, Forward Pattern Manual valve body or Reverse Pattern Manual/Automatic valve body and why?

Please advise 

[Runner]

what are you looking for the car to do?  and what does all that head work cost?   might just look at a set of e-heads and skimp some place else.

[cudaken]

 CB, have you spoke with Neil? I would honest to God PM him about buliding you the 440. I would trust Neil as much as Ray Burton and Neil would be less. If you are going to spend money might as well keep it among friends.

As far as the bolt in sprag, yes if you are shooting for over 450 Hp it is a good idea if you like your toes.

                                  Cuda Ken

[CB]

but what the heck is 'a bolt in sprag'?
I'll shoot Neil a PM 

[Runner]

the bolt in sprag is a over running clutch. it basically lets a shaft turn in only one direction with springs and rollers positioned so the rollers will unload in one direction and will "wedge" in the other direction so it cant spin that way.      the factory sprags are pushed into a splines in the case and then they have a set screw that helps hold them in place. the bolt in acually bolts in. as i understand it they both cam come apart, but the bolt in is alot less likely to spin in the case (near impossible unless the bolts break).also as i understand it the single best thing to do is to make sure you have a low gear band apply valve body.  the bolt in sprag is nice inexpenssive insurance and then the billet steel direct drum, thats the critter that explodes and hurts people when the sprag fails. it lets the drum overspeed and the stock cast iron drum blows up.   

    when your deciding on what valve body you want you need to consider several things,  do you want to manually shift your car every time it needs a gear change? do you want a shift pattern that is p r n 3 2 1   or do you want a shift pattern that is  p r n 1 2 3 .  if your not giong to be racing the car alot,  want to use stock shifters and linkage and want a very good shifting car then get a full automatic valve body with a good shift reprogram kit or a good after maket automatic valvebody.   if you want a manually shifter car that has the stock shift pattern then get a forward pattern manual (low band apply) valve body. if you want a reverse patter manual valve body( supposed to be the hardest shifting of the bunch) then get a low band apply reverse pattern valve body.    im sure john kunkel can give you alot more insite, hes a pretty smart guy 

[firefighter3931]

what trans would be better?
727   Street Trans (STREET BEEF) / $795.00
or
727   PerformanceTrans (PRO / STREET) / $949.95


1) what is a   'bolt in sprag' and do I need it?
2) what do I need if I buy the pro/street trans : Reverse Pattern Manual valve body, Forward Pattern Manual valve body or Reverse Pattern Manual/Automatic valve body and why?

Please advise  

The "Street Beef" tranny should be fine for what you're looking to do with this car. If you were planning on doing a lot of 1/4 mile racing with the car then the pro street trans would be added insurance. A well built torqueflight is pretty tough and near impossible to break with the power level you will be at with this engine build.  

Ron

[cudaken]

 Man that was deatiled answer Runner. All I knew is it the spag fails you better have a trans blanket to keep all your toes. I have have one but more than likely will never need it again.

                                  Cuda Ken

[firefighter3931]

Further to the bolt in sprag issue: if you decide to go with a fully automatic valvebody then the bolt in sprag isn't really needed because the automatic valvebody is low band by design. The earlier cheetah full manual valvebodies came w/o low band apply and this is where the added support on the over running clutch (sprag) was needed in the event of a driveshaft/u-joint/axle failure. Most of the manufacturers now make a fully manual valvebody with the low band apply feature. I have the new cheetah forward pattern valvebody for mine with the low band apply feature. I will also run the bolt in sprag for added insurance but mine will be seeing a lot of strip action as well.

Basicly, if you go with a modified stock valvebody then the bolt in sprag is overkill....especially on a street car with ~ 450hp or less.

Ron

[Mefirst]

CB**

Every engine that gives out over 75hp is an overkill, but its fun

/Tom

[Jon Smith]

I went for the bolt in sprag, low band apply valve body and billet steel drum
probably dont need all that but those pics of exploded transmissions are pretty persuasive

[Chryco Psycho]

looks like a good package , I would change 2 things , 2.5" TTi exhaust would be a better choice , it will increase velocity & scavenging
& use a 870 avenger carb , it will starve with the 750 , I can`t figure why everyone is so reluctant to use a big carb , the factory used the 6 pack on the 340, it seems to work OK