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AirRide (updated 1-17-09)

Started by Finn, November 06, 2008, 02:43:28 PM

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charger2fast4u

do you think there is any way to get the exhaust to run back to the rear of the car? i'd like to have mine exit the back were the TTI system go's. not really wanting turn downs. also did you say you have 20'' rims in the rear i want to go with 18x10 in the rear any idea on what my clearances would be like? my plans for my car is pretty much just to build a hell of a daily driver. i plan to get this air ride system just waiting and seeing how yours go's together first to make my mind up if it's a worthy investment. my cars a 68 charger going to have a stroker built 440 with a Tremec 5 speed and DANA 60 rear. i figured this air ride would be the cherry on top to a great build.

Finn

Sounds like a sweet build, got any pics?
Yes I'm sure there will be a way to run the pipes but its going to take a lot of custom fabrication (on the plus side, you will have a pre-designed and tested system ready to rock when you get to that point haha).
The 20s I have in the back are only 8.5 wide and they JUST clear the inside of the wheel well with a stock axle width. To fit 10 inch tires in the back (which would look sick!) and still clear at all heights it would require shortening the axles/housing and quite possibly a mini tubed set of wheel wells. I remember a thread on here about a guy that does nothing but custom rear ends so you would be able to get the Dana 60 built to the correct width, maybe even get the tabs required by the four link welded on. That would be a nice setup and it would save another step. Oh and I didnt get a chance to get the camera out today but Ill have time tomorrow to get a better picture of the notch.
1968 Dodge Charger 440, EFI, AirRide suspension
1970 Dodge Challenger RT/SE 383 magnum
1963 Plymouth Savoy 225 with a 3 on the tree.
2002 Dodge Ram 5.9L 360
2014 Dodge Dart 2.4L

charger2fast4u

i don't have any pics yet pretty much a rolling shell. i got to take back to the body shop for final priming/blocking. i will start taking pics of everything when i start to reassemble everything. back on the rear axle and tire subject. how much could you cut down the axle tubes before you run into problems with the axle being to short for the primary bars to be hooked up? the one's that hook to the leaf spring mounts. let me know if you don't understand my question it's alittle confusing. also how much backspace is there before the back of the tire would hit the primary bars? i'm thinking it over and it sounds like shortening the axle would cause alot of problems if your trying to fit 18x10 in the rear without the fender coming down on the tire.

Finn

Not much room at all. I took some pics to try and show it (ignore the lose top bar resting there, still working on gas tank clearance so its not back in place yet).





Have some touching up to do...Its funny how long it takes to notice the imperfections after a paint job haha.
Oh well its better then what it started with.

Better pic of that front:


*shock is disconnected*



1968 Dodge Charger 440, EFI, AirRide suspension
1970 Dodge Challenger RT/SE 383 magnum
1963 Plymouth Savoy 225 with a 3 on the tree.
2002 Dodge Ram 5.9L 360
2014 Dodge Dart 2.4L

charger2fast4u

thanks alot for taking the pictures and great info. do you think if i keep the stock axle width and put as much backspace as i can on 18x10 wheels would they clear the outer fender? if so i could do that and if it hits the back of the inner fender i could put a mini tub in. i was actually thinking of putting a mini tub in for awhile now but wasn't sure if i wanted to go that route. how is the front tire and fender clearance are you running 18x8.5 up front to? i was thinking of going 17x8 or so up front.

Finn

The fronts are 18x8s and they clear fine. You can't drive it at full drop and even if everything cleared you're not supposed to anyway. You're not supposed to drive it topped out either. As far as the backspacing/mini tub goes yes that seems like it would work if it was back spaced enough.
Some things to consider though:

a) are there any problems with have a wheel with a lot of back spacing? Seems to me there would be some sort of issues with power distribution or tread wear...Im sure one of the guys in the "Chassis, Suspension, Brakes, Wheels, & Tires" or "Performance Corner" would know the answer.

b) is that the look you really want? Most of the wide tire non-drag cars Ive seen have a good size inset on the rears.
1968 Dodge Charger 440, EFI, AirRide suspension
1970 Dodge Challenger RT/SE 383 magnum
1963 Plymouth Savoy 225 with a 3 on the tree.
2002 Dodge Ram 5.9L 360
2014 Dodge Dart 2.4L

charger2fast4u

thats some good points. is there any room to cut the axle tubes down? don't want to cut them down if there isnt much room on each side because you want some room  between the tire and the u bolts and bracket incase things don't line up exactly right you got room to move and work with. also does the front tires clear everything and can be turned fully left and right when fully dropped?

Finn

Not really, there's about 1.5 inches between the U-bolt and the start of the axle end. The front on my setup is going to need a rubber bumpstop on the lower control arms to prevent the tie bars from rubbing on the headers, which will change the clearances. As it is now they do rub at full drop and you cant turn them much, but it only takes about a 1 inch raise to clear and turn fully. The dropped and topped are said to be strictly show positions.
1968 Dodge Charger 440, EFI, AirRide suspension
1970 Dodge Challenger RT/SE 383 magnum
1963 Plymouth Savoy 225 with a 3 on the tree.
2002 Dodge Ram 5.9L 360
2014 Dodge Dart 2.4L

charger2fast4u

i just thought of an idea i can't believe this slipped my mind. what about the rear leaf spring relocation mounts that mopar performance sells. they move the stock located leaf springs in 3'' on each side. does this air suspension kit need the primary bars in that exact location (stock leaf spring location)? would they still work the same and not give any problems if i put the 3'' mounts in and hooked everything up? or does the bars have to be in the stock location due to axle movement over bumps and what not?

Finn

Hmm well there's an idea!
Im no expert but I would hazard a guess that it would probably work. The axle housing would have to be cut inwards of the old on-axle leaf spring mounts so they stay intact, don't know if that's a problems. Either that or cut and remount them...or better yet have a custom one made as mentioned before with the mounts in the right place. At that point however I would just get the bags for the back and have the rest of the 4-link custom made as well. It'd be a lot easier then trying to make all the kit parts fit and you might be able to figure out the exhaust problem in the process. :scratchchin:
The wells might still require a mini tub but moving the spring mounts in would definitely help with the shortening of the axle...which in turn would help lower the amount of backspacing needed.

1968 Dodge Charger 440, EFI, AirRide suspension
1970 Dodge Challenger RT/SE 383 magnum
1963 Plymouth Savoy 225 with a 3 on the tree.
2002 Dodge Ram 5.9L 360
2014 Dodge Dart 2.4L

charger2fast4u

well i do plan on getting a new axle built by Dr Diff for this build so having the axle shortened to my needs is no problem. i'm thinking it would work out good as long as the 4 link would be unaffected by the relocated mounts. i plan to install this kit with my stock 8 3/4 with the relocated mounts to test it out first. and to get the measurements needed for the new axle to be built and make sure it will rise and lower and perform as it should. i think this way would be cheaper then getting a whole custom 4 link made like you mentioned i could be wong though.