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Shop heat

Started by Blown70, October 25, 2005, 11:10:23 AM

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Blown70

NHCharger,

Thanks that is what I was thinking,  HECK here in North Dakota.... -40 a few times in the winter is not that uncommon.  Adding wind chill welll     :rotz:

I will have to check into those heaters.  Did you connect it yourself?

Thanks again,

Tom

NHCharger

Quote from: Blown70 on October 28, 2005, 09:03:44 AM
NHCharger,

  Did you connect it yourself?

Thanks again,

Tom

Nope, a man's got to know his limitations.
As a builder I do a lot of things myself, but I don't like to play with gas unless it's a emergency. Also in NH you need to be licensed to install a gas appliance, even a stove or dryer. If I installed the heater myself and there was a malfunction which caused a fire I'm not sure my insurance company would cover it.
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firefighter3931

Quote from: NHCharger on October 27, 2005, 08:44:37 PM
Hey Blown, here is a closer pic of my shop heater, it's a 60,000 BTU unit. My shop is insulated with R-19 in the walls and R-30 in the ceiling. I didn't use any styrofoam insulation under the slab because I think it's pointless unless your using radiant floor heat, plus it would have cost $1,400. just for the insulation. Also my windows are double pane, low-E glass. Since I built it myself I know it's pretty tight.
Last January, which was one of the coldest months on record, it cost me $132.00 to heat the shop. That's setting the temp at 52 and raising it to 60 when I work in there. Propane was running about $ 1.86/gallon then.

Ron, I know what you mean about windchill. I live on the north side of a pond. There's usually a nice breeze blowing all winter. :eyes: I have recorded temp's here at -20 a couple times, that doesn't include the wind chill factor. That is why I only installed one 12x8 garage door in my shop. The heat loss from a garage door is the major cost of heating my shop .


NHcharger, that looks like a very nice unit. What's your opinion on using something like that in addition to radiant floor heating ? It does get very cold....many winter days are -40c plus the windchill. I'd like to be able to maintain a reasonable working environment inside a shop when i build it. Your opinion ?

Thanks, Ron

68 Charger R/T "Black Pig" Street/Strip bruiser, 70 Charger R/T 440-6bbl Cruiser. Firecore ignition  authorized dealer ; contact me with your needs

NHCharger

Ron, my opinion. MOVE to a warmer climate like New Hampshire. I need a Mopar guru in my area, I'll even help built your shop. :yesnod:

The only drawback with these heaters is the amount of air it blows. My unit has a 27' blow area as they call it. The 75,000 BTU unit has a 35' blow area. When I'm running my table saw I make sure I'm off to the side of the unit, otherwise when the heater kicks in it will blow the dust everywhere if I'm cutting in front of the heater. If you build a lot of engines I'm not sure this would be the correct heater because of the amount of dust it could kick up. I keep my shop clean and if you bought one of the dust collection units that hangs from the ceiling you would probably be all set.
If you are going to use this heater as a piggy back system to the radiant floor heat you might be able to go with a smaller unit. A lot depends on how well your garage in insulated. I know on the windy nights it sounds like someone pounding on my garage door. In your climate I would definitely have a back up system. It also helps on where you postion the heater. I have positioned it so it blows across in front of the garage door area. Your overhead doors will be your major source for heat loss, even with a high R value door the area around the door is where you lose all your heat . Nothing you can do about that. Have the heat blow across in front of the doors (not at them). This will keep your shop at an even temperature.
72 Charger- Base Model
68 Charger-R/T Clone
69 Charger Daytona clone
79 Lil Red Express - future money pit
88 Ramcharger 4x4- current money pit
55 Dodge Royal 2 door - wife's money pit
2014 RAM 2500HD Diesel

firefighter3931

Thanks, those are excellent suggestions !   :thumbs: I luv New Hampshire and have relatives in the next state over (Vermont). The commute to work might be a bit much though, LOL !

I'm thinking 2x6 stick frame on the walls with a scissor truss on the ceiling for added height (2 post lift roof clearance) because i'm limited to 14.5 ft at the peak due to the local code. I'm also considering foam block for the ultimate insulated shop... a friend builds custom homes using this technology and swears by it. The wall R-factor is 50....talk about killer insulation and cheap heating.

Ron
68 Charger R/T "Black Pig" Street/Strip bruiser, 70 Charger R/T 440-6bbl Cruiser. Firecore ignition  authorized dealer ; contact me with your needs

Dans 68

Quote from: NHCharger on October 27, 2005, 08:44:37 PM
...I think it's pointless unless your using radiant floor heat, plus it would have cost $1,400. just for the insulation.

Nice Shop! Now, I think it would have been money well spent to insulate the slab. It's acting as a large heat sink, and will draw the heat energy out of the air; your fuel bills will be higher.

Did I say nice shop?   :icon_smile_tongue:

Dan
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