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Any body on here use feather fill?

Started by tripleblkr/t, October 10, 2008, 06:15:38 PM

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tripleblkr/t

Tops of my quarters still have some small tiny tiny dents that the filler primer wont fill. Instead of spotting them in with bondo I was thinking of spraying the tops out with feather fill. Any one use the stuff, is it any good? I heard you should stay away from the body lines with it as you can loose them pretty quick. Maybe I'll just skim the spots and filler prime it again.

yeahitsgotahemi!

Feather fill? Are you talking about the Evercoat plastic filler? Nah, for little stuff like that I use polyester filler. Evercoat's stuff is good, its called metal glaze and comes in a pink/white squeeze bottle.
"I don't advocate drugs, alcohol, violence or insanity to anyone, they just always worked for me"  - Hunter S. Thompson

hemi-hampton

The feather fill I'm aware of is just super thick polyester primer. Last I remember the can was a grayish light blue but that was 15 years ago. I'd use some evercoat glazing putty on those. Bluish green squeeze bottle. LEON.

chargerguy111

I've used feather fill and love it.An easier way to get waveless metal than skim coating.

Arigmaster

I prefer Dupont Sandee myself... Much easier blocking and less shrink.

71RT4ME

The stuff to use is Evercoat Slick Sand.Same as Featherfill only better.Sands awesome.You need a spraygun with a massive tip to spray it.I use an older gravity feed with the cap drilled out.Can't remember what size drill I used ,but it was just enough that the fluid needle still seated.

Aero426

There is a school of thought that says using a paint product to do your bodywork isn't the right way to go.     Granted most (hopefully) is going to get sanded off, but you are putting a lot of film thickness on the car.    Like any good thing, if you go this route, don't overdo it. 

71RT4ME

Actually Slick Sand is a sprayable Polyester filler.This is what it is intended to be used for.It won't fill major flaws,but it works excellent for getting the panels really straight before primers go on.I like to block it with 80-120 grit,but it will sand much finer too.

Charger-Bodie

Poly surfacer actually doesnt cause too much film build , it just makes it so you dont have to prime and block as much. poly surfacer doesnt shrink.

The thing to keep in mind is that it is NOT body filler and dont abuse it....Finish out youre bodywork as if you were using regular primer surfacer, and it will work well.

I prefer either Evercoat Slick sand or Upol Reface.
68 Charger R/t white with black v/t and red tailstripe. 440 4 speed ,black interior
68 383 auto with a/c and power windows. Now 440 4 speed jj1 gold black interior .
My Charger is a hybrid car, it burns gas and rubber............

bill440rt

I've used Standox Spritz Plastik before with awesome results!  :yesnod:

2 coats, most gets blocked off anyway. Really helps to get a panel straight. What's nice about SPRAYING it on, it that it goes on evenly. You're blocking the panel to get it smooth. With fillers, your first initial sanding strokes are to remove spreader marks. Obviously, there are none with the sprayable fillers.
"Strive for perfection in everything. Take the best that exists and make it better. If it doesn't exist, create it. Accept nothing nearly right or good enough." Sir Henry Rolls Royce

moparmusclecars

I used feather fill back in the early eighties. Fix the dings the right way with body filler and use regular catalized primer. Feather fill will crack over a short time period coz of the thickness of it and you will never block it straight for paint. It will always look wavy. Don't be looking for an easy way out of fixing bodywork the right way, coz there isn't one. Skim the whole area needed with body filler and sand it all off straight, followed by blocking after its primed out. Cover a much larger area than you think around the dings and farther past. THis will allow it to be straight once you have sanded it down. Stay away from feather fill. its for quick fixes on used cars! Lyle