Voltage regulators only lasting 2 to 4 weeks.

[1969chargerrtse]

I've already done the "search " thing but couldn't find my issue.  I keep eating voltage regulators?  Let me explain.  I have a new Alt, but my regs last about 2 weeks , maybe a month then they flicker a lot.  I checked the last one I returned and the contacts were burnt bad.  The one before that the wire to the coil on the relay was open (broken).  The parts are on warranty, thats a good thing.  I just put a new one in yesterday.  The battery was down a bit as I drove to the parts store on the neg.  So I start the car and it chargers maybe +10 on an idle, if I rev the gas it pegs positive as it's trying to bring the batt up.  So I head out of the parts store and it's charger bigtime full until "bink" it stops and charges just normal a little on the plus side, but I swear I smelled something like electrical burning.  It's been fine since?  WTF.

[Charger-Bodie]

Have you ever just charged the battery with a battery charger?

The charging system is designed to keep the battery charged , BUT too much constant load is hard on them.

Not saying this is for surely the problem , but its a possiblity.

[1969chargerrtse]

Have you ever just charged the battery with a battery charger?

The charging system is designed to keep the battery charged , BUT too much constant load is hard on them.

Not saying this is for surely the problem , but its a possibility.

Yea, it's a repro type that I think is a yellow gel cell battery.  I had fully charged it yesterday and only made a quick run to the parts store.  I just started the car now for a family errand run ( charger in the wild run ) and everything is normal, but you watch and in 2 to 4 weeks I'll have problems again.  I think.  We'll see?

[Back N Black]

I've already done the "search " thing but couldn't find my issue.  I keep eating voltage regulators?  Let me explain.  I have a new Alt, but my regs last about 2 weeks , maybe a month then they flicker a lot.  I checked the last one I returned and the contacts were burnt bad.  The one before that the wire to the coil on the relay was open (broken).  The parts are on warranty, thats a good thing.  I just put a new one in yesterday.  The battery was down a bit as I drove to the parts store on the neg.  So I start the car and it chargers maybe +10 on an idle, if I rev the gas it pegs positive as it's trying to bring the batt up.  So I head out of the parts store and it's charger bigtime full until "bink" it stops and charges just normal a little on the plus side, but I swear I smelled something like electrical burning.  It's been fine since?  WTF.

You never had these types of problems when you were driving Chevys. 

[Just 6T9 CHGR]

Time to convert to the dual field alt & the electronic regulator my friend.....

[1969chargerrtse]

I've already done the "search " thing but couldn't find my issue.  I keep eating voltage regulators?  Let me explain.  I have a new Alt, but my regs last about 2 weeks , maybe a month then they flicker a lot.  I checked the last one I returned and the contacts were burnt bad.  The one before that the wire to the coil on the relay was open (broken).  The parts are on warranty, thats a good thing.  I just put a new one in yesterday.  The battery was down a bit as I drove to the parts store on the neg.  So I start the car and it chargers maybe +10 on an idle, if I rev the gas it pegs positive as it's trying to bring the batt up.  So I head out of the parts store and it's charger bigtime full until "bink" it stops and charges just normal a little on the plus side, but I swear I smelled something like electrical burning.  It's been fine since?  WTF.

You never had these types of problems when you were driving Chevys. 

Nope.  I love the Charger, still some issues to work out.  It's not the 40 year old cars fault, who knows who or what has altered it in all these years.   Never ever had a charging issue with any of the 50 plus GM cars I've owned as far back as my 57 Nomad. But this charger is worth it, what a cool car.  I went to my Sunday cruise night tonight and it was looking good. Still vibrates at high speeds, doesn't run as smooth as I'd like in certain RPM ranges, Heater levers don't work, neither does the AM radio ( I think someone stole the original am/fm in it and put in a dead am ) but man it's a looker, and has an awesome rumbling Muscle car sound.   

UPDATE:  Vibration problem solved.  Radio fixed. 

[Back N Black]

I've already done the "search " thing but couldn't find my issue.  I keep eating voltage regulators?  Let me explain.  I have a new Alt, but my regs last about 2 weeks , maybe a month then they flicker a lot.  I checked the last one I returned and the contacts were burnt bad.  The one before that the wire to the coil on the relay was open (broken).  The parts are on warranty, thats a good thing.  I just put a new one in yesterday.  The battery was down a bit as I drove to the parts store on the neg.  So I start the car and it chargers maybe +10 on an idle, if I rev the gas it pegs positive as it's trying to bring the batt up.  So I head out of the parts store and it's charger bigtime full until "bink" it stops and charges just normal a little on the plus side, but I swear I smelled something like electrical burning.  It's been fine since?  WTF.

You never had these types of problems when you were driving Chevys. 

Nope.  I love the Charger, still some issues to work out.  It's not the 40 year old cars fault, who knows who or what as altered it in all these years.   Never ever had a charging issue with any of the 50 plus GM cars I've owned as far back as my 57 Nomad. But this charger is worth it, what a cool car.  I went to my Sunday cruise night tonight and it was looking good. Still vibrates at high speeds, doesn't run as smooth as I'd like in certain RPM ranges, Heater levers don't work, neither does the AM radio, but man it's a looker, and has an awesome rumbling Muscle car sound.   

I know, i just messing with ya.

[1969chargerrtse]

Time to convert to the dual field alt & the electronic regulator my friend.....

Not gonna do it.  Just as it runs on the original points I believe the original system is fine, just need to figure out what the issue is.  Could be junk remade regs?  Ya never know?
Thanks anyway, and time to change your name from , just 6t9 chgr to something like  2 chgrs 6 drs.     

[Ghoste]

He's got ya there Chris. 

[69fuchs]

Your alternator has incorrect parts inside (the rotor is a 1970 or newer style).
Your options are either to find an unmolested 69 or older alternator and have it rebuilt, or get a solid state regulator.

There are sources that carry an oem appearing regulator with solid state internals (year one used to carry them, I don't know if they still do).
OR......you could buy the mopar performance version Part # P3690732.  It does not look original, but it does mount and connect exactly like the original.

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=DCC%2D3690732&N=700+301012+115&autoview=sku
or this one  http://www.autozone.com/selectedZip,54650/initialAction,partProductDetail/initialpartType,00097/initialR,1435631/initialvehicleId,1489803/shopping/selectZip.htm

[1969chargerrtse]

Your alternator has incorrect parts inside (the rotor is a 1970 or newer style).
Your options are either to find an unmolested 69 or older alternator and have it rebuilt, or get a solid state regulator.

There are sources that carry an oem appearing regulator with solid state internals (year one used to carry them, I don't know if they still do).
OR......you could buy the mopar performance version Part # P3690732.  It does not look original, but it does mount and connect exactly like the original.

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=DCC%2D3690732&N=700+301012+115&autoview=sku
or this one  http://www.autozone.com/selectedZip,54650/initialAction,partProductDetail/initialpartType,00097/initialR,1435631/initialvehicleId,1489803/shopping/selectZip.htm

Wa?  I got the alternator from Pep boys, so your telling me it's the wrong one?  How would I prove this, and why does it work fine for a month or so?

[1969chargerrtse]

I've already done the "search " thing but couldn't find my issue.  I keep eating voltage regulators?  Let me explain.  I have a new Alt, but my regs last about 2 weeks , maybe a month then they flicker a lot.  I checked the last one I returned and the contacts were burnt bad.  The one before that the wire to the coil on the relay was open (broken).  The parts are on warranty, thats a good thing.  I just put a new one in yesterday.  The battery was down a bit as I drove to the parts store on the neg.  So I start the car and it chargers maybe +10 on an idle, if I rev the gas it pegs positive as it's trying to bring the batt up.  So I head out of the parts store and it's charger bigtime full until "bink" it stops and charges just normal a little on the plus side, but I swear I smelled something like electrical burning.  It's been fine since?  WTF.

You never had these types of problems when you were driving Chevys. 

Nope.  I love the Charger, still some issues to work out.  It's not the 40 year old cars fault, who knows who or what as altered it in all these years.   Never ever had a charging issue with any of the 50 plus GM cars I've owned as far back as my 57 Nomad. But this charger is worth it, what a cool car.  I went to my Sunday cruise night tonight and it was looking good. Still vibrates at high speeds, doesn't run as smooth as I'd like in certain RPM ranges, Heater levers don't work, neither does the AM radio, but man it's a looker, and has an awesome rumbling Muscle car sound.   

I know, i just messing with ya.

Oh.  

[Just 6T9 CHGR]

He's got ya there Chris. 

He's got me where?  The fact that he's riding around in a potential fire bomb with antiquated wiring, marginal performance & reliability or the fact that he wishes he had a 4 door Charger?

[Ghoste]

The fact that you are no longer Just 6T9 CHGR. 

[gordo1968charger]

whats a dual feed alternator do?
what is the advantage of upgrading?

[1969chargerrtse]

He's got ya there Chris. 

He's got me where?  The fact that he's riding around in a potential fire bomb with antiquated wiring, marginal performance & reliability or the fact that he wishes he had a 4 door Charger?

Ummm, if I may.  How about I could be the first to own a new Chargmaro when they come out?  You understand my car is insured for 40 grand right?  Sure be a shame to see it go up in smoke.   
Oh and who's to blame on the "reliability" part?

Us closet case GM lovers gotta be careful how we word things on the Mopar sites.  Even though we may be as 1 soon.

And Oh, "marginal performance"  did you not see my clip?  Bring it on baby.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Jba_lYkzRU



                                                                                   

[69fuchs]

Your alternator has incorrect parts inside (the rotor is a 1970 or newer style).
Your options are either to find an unmolested 69 or older alternator and have it rebuilt, or get a solid state regulator.

There are sources that carry an oem appearing regulator with solid state internals (year one used to carry them, I don't know if they still do).
OR......you could buy the mopar performance version Part # P3690732.  It does not look original, but it does mount and connect exactly like the original.

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=DCC%2D3690732&N=700+301012+115&autoview=sku
or this one  http://www.autozone.com/selectedZip,54650/initialAction,partProductDetail/initialpartType,00097/initialR,1435631/initialvehicleId,1489803/shopping/selectZip.htm

Wa?  I got the alternator from Pep boys, so your telling me it's the wrong one?  How would I prove this, and why does it work fine for a month or so?

The windings in the rotor are different, they produce more energy and burn out the mechanical regulator in a short time.  I suppose you could have an auto electric business look at your alternator, chain stores will be clueless on this issue. 

[Nacho-RT74]

The windings in the rotor are different, they produce more energy and burn out the mechanical regulator in a short time.  I suppose you could have an auto electric business look at your alternator, chain stores will be clueless on this issue. 

eeeehm... I can't be agree. More powerfull alt, produces less work and stress to regulator.

Unless I'm missing something

[Nacho-RT74]

whats a dual feed alternator do?
what is the advantage of upgrading?

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,49366.0.html

[Nacho-RT74]

and:
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,48513.0.html

[John_Kunkel]

[The windings in the rotor are different, they produce more energy and burn out the mechanical regulator in a short time. 

The rotor is the same, the difference is in the way the fields are externally wired.

The points in the mechanical regulator cycle open and closed to produce a regulated voltage to excite one of the fields in the alternator, the other field is grounded to the case. The only thing that would cause premature failure of the points is a high current draw in the field circuit. This causes an arc as the points open and the continuous arcing is what fries the points.

The ammeter pegging could be caused by a low battery or it could be caused by a short somewhere in the electrical system. A short to ground will cause the alternator to overcharge in an attempt to supply the current that the short circuit is demanding. The electrical smell confirms that something is shorted.

[1969chargerrtse]

[The windings in the rotor are different, they produce more energy and burn out the mechanical regulator in a short time. 

The rotor is the same, the difference is in the way the fields are externally wired.

The points in the mechanical regulator cycle open and closed to produce a regulated voltage to excite one of the fields in the alternator, the other field is grounded to the case. The only thing that would cause premature failure of the points is a high current draw in the field circuit. This causes an arc as the points open and the continuous arcing is what fries the points.

The ammeter pegging could be caused by a low battery or it could be caused by a short somewhere in the electrical system. A short to ground will cause the alternator to overcharge in an attempt to supply the current that the short circuit is demanding. The electrical smell confirms that something is shorted.

As for the smell, it's gone and I'm not 100% it was electrical burning etc...
As for the needle peggin to the right it was at a time the battery was low and it was just high current charging until it was full.
What I would like to ask is "The only thing that would cause premature failure of the points is a high current draw in the field circuit. "  should I bring it back to pep boys for another unit or is there some sort of electrical check I can do?  As for now everything is normal, after I start the car I have a current draw for 5 Min's or so and then the needle is just a hair on the plus side.

[69fuchs]

Not to get into a pissing match with Mr Kunkel, but he is wrong on this one.

This is a quote from an article from Gary Hiede:

"The mechanical voltage regulator has a set of points inside that can only carry a limited amount of amperage.  Rotor coils in these draw about 2.3 amps and the alternator output was either 37 or 46 amps. 

   Rotor coils in later model chrysler alternators carried up to 7 amps of current.  If one of these should happen to be installed in an alternator using a mechanical voltage regulator it would burn out the points in short order."

This information comes from A&S rebuilders of sterling, Illinois.  They also have the original style regulator with modern electronic circuitry.

The article is old, so I can't tell you if they are still in business or not.  Here is the phone # 815 626 8949

[Bob Hanner]

Call Don at FBO

http://4secondsflat.com/

I was having the same issues, went through 3 mechanical regulators in a year. Got one of his original looking regulators with modern electronic components inside and haven't had a problem since!!!

[1969chargerrtse]

Call Don at FBO

http://4secondsflat.com/

I was having the same issues, went through 3 mechanical regulators in a year. Got one of his original looking regulators with modern electronic components inside and haven't had a problem since!!!

Cool, thanks, and thanks for all the info guys.   

I'm wondering why I can't put something ( resistor ) in line of the field wiring?  I'll have to ask our electronics guy at work, to drop the amps from the 7 to 3ish?