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leaf spring finish for '68 Charger

Started by hemi68charger, October 04, 2008, 03:28:11 PM

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hemi68charger

Hey gang.....
I know this has probably been discussed before, but I'd like a fresh perspective... I'm about to restore my original leaf springs on my '68 Hemi Charger R/T.. I have the rebuilt kit. But, should they be natural all the way, the leaf's painted black individually and then all the hardware left natural or everything put together and then the complete assemblies painted black?

I didn't see any evidence of black paint on the leaf springs when I started cleaning them up this past week....

Thanks..
Troy
'69 Charger Daytona 440 auto 4.10 Dana ( now 426 HEMI )
'70 Superbird 426 Hemi auto: Lindsley Bonneville Salt Flat world record holder (220.2mph)
Houston Mopar Club Connection

resq302

I painted mine a dark cast iron gray to simulate the heat treated steel.  Might have a dark bluish-black color to it  with mainly a cast iron color shade.
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

Ghoste

I thought they were all unpainted originally so Brians suggestion is probably the best.  I've also seen more than one restoration article claim that semi gloss black is correct but I only noticed a lot of cars painting them black in more recent times.  :shruggy:

resq302

Probably your best bet would be to if you are rebuilding your old springs to remove them and inspect in between the leafs to see if there is any black paint in there.  If they were black originally, you would see it on a protected area such as under the shock mount plate or in between the leafs closer to the pin that holds all the leafs together.
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

Rolling_Thunder

I've heard that some came through black and others came through natural   :shruggy:
1968 Dodge Charger - 6.1L Hemi / 6-speed / 3.55 Sure Grip

2013 Dodge Challenger R/T - 5.7L Hemi / 6-speed / 3.73 Limited Slip

1964 Dodge Polara 500 - 440 / 4-speed / 3.91 Sure Grip

1973 Dodge Challenger Rallye - 340 / A-518 / 3.23 Sure Grip

Ghoste

Here's another question, if some came through black, were they painted as an assembled unit or were the leaves painted black and the interliners left natural?

resq302

Assuming they would do it the cheapest way possible, I would have to say they assembled it and then painted it like the master cyl and power booster for disc brake cars.
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

Ghoste

And that has been my argument too but I have heard some people say the correct way is all black and others say natural interliners. :shruggy:

resq302

Basically it all comes down to who the suplier was and what they had on hand the day the car was being built.
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

69ISFINALLYMINE

First of all I don't know the answer on weather they were painted or left bare, but I do have a comment as a restorer. There is a limit to doing things "just how the factory did it" (here me out, because I am a restoration nut myself).  If you are restoring the car and if you decide to paint the spring packs, my advice would be to paint each leaf individually prior to assembly. The reason for the pre-paint is that the paint between each leaf will keep the inevitable rust away for much longer than if you just paint them as an assembly.  No one will know that they are painted between each leaf and they will look good for many years beyond others. 

As a question for the painted or natural finish debate, is it possible that the springs on these cars were oil-dipped after arching?  That is done a lot to quench heat treated steel and it provides a protective black finish as a by-product of the process. 

Doc

Ghoste

Hmmm, that's a very real possibility.  :scratchchin:

hemi68charger

Thanks everyone........

I think I'm going to go with a semi-gloss finish on them.. I have the rebuild kit now and waiting on the shackles... I don't want to turn this into a major project in itself. I'll rebuild the springs, smooth them out, paint them semi-gloss and leave the shackles and hangers natural. I'll paint the shock plate semi-gloss as well....... It'll still look real nice and OEM.....

Troy
Troy
'69 Charger Daytona 440 auto 4.10 Dana ( now 426 HEMI )
'70 Superbird 426 Hemi auto: Lindsley Bonneville Salt Flat world record holder (220.2mph)
Houston Mopar Club Connection