Ignition system issues - no start diagnostics

[toupee]

Hey all,

So, my car won't start.  Don't know what's up exactly but I think it's in the ignition system.  I thought at first it might be timing related, but I've messed around with different timing settings and I still can't even get it to fire once. 
This is what I know -
I put my timing light on the #1 and #7 wires to see if there was any current running through them at any point.  The light did nothing on the #7 wire and flashed occasionally on the #1 wire the first time I checked it and not at all the second time. 
I tried putting the light on the coil to distributor cap wire to see it if would flash each time the rotor passed a contact (4 times per crank revolution if I did my math right) and I got a flash about every engine revolution or every other revolution. 
I measured the current running from the ballast resistor to the + terminal on the coil with the key in the "on" position and got about 6 volts.  The - terminal had minimal (1 or 2) volts.  Can someone tell me what is the typical reading here?
The cap is practically new with very little carbon deposit on the contacts.  The rotor seems OK to me.
The battery tests good when I try it.

Ideas?

[firefighter3931]

Check the ballist resistor....you should have 12 volts on the top spade connector and 8-9 volts on the bottom, which connects to the + coil terminal.

Make sure your battery is fully charged.


Ron

[John_Kunkel]

Checking the voltage at the coil with the key in the ON position won't tell you much because that circuit is shut off in the START position. You need to check for voltage at the coil in both the START and RUN positions.

[toupee]

The battery is fully charged.  This question just hit me.  Can a battery see a reduction in its cca rating over time even if the charge is kept up?

And the wire in between the ballast resistor and coil should see 12 v when the engine is cranking, right?