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paint bare metal

Started by chargerscott, September 27, 2008, 08:40:06 PM

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chargerscott

i'm going to have my 73 Charger blasted, do you know what to do next? primer? what kind? please help

The70RT

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knitz01

Sorry to jump in but do you need to use a eching primer first? :shruggy:

chargerscott

so from bare metal use self etching primer. can i use bondo over the self etching primer or do i sand it down before bondo? when i put bondo on does i cover the bondo with epoxy primer?

69*F5*SE

Yes, make sure you have your ducks all in a row before you get anything blasted. There's more than one way to skin a cat. Some folks have different opinions on what goes on first after blasting.  Do you have a body guy that you're working with?  It would be a good thing. He should know what to do after blasting. Yes, an etch primer is a good choice after blasting.  Epoxy can be applied over the etch.  Some people apply body filler (bondo) over properly prepared epoxy primer and there are those that prefer applying it over bare metal.  Just make sure you get you're plan in order before you have anything blasted.  Things need to happen in order within a certain amount of time. Hope this helps.

BlueSS454

I don't use etching primer...it's outdated technology and pretty unnecessary on bare metal.  Once the car is sandblasted, bring it back into the shop and blow it out for aabout an hour, then some more.  Once done, take a DA to the metal with some 80 grit just to clean it up a little, then blow it off again.  Whatever you do, DON'T TOUCH the metal with your hands, oil will get on it and cause adhesion problems.  Mix up some GOOD epoxy primer and lay a coat down.  I like to use the DuPont Epoxy.  I think the # is 2430.  after it cures up, start doing your metal replacement or bodywork.
Another thing....you can do your filler work right over top the epoxy, it won't hurt anything.  Also, get some decent filler, not that el cheapo Bondo brand garbage that Pep Boys sells.  I recommend Evercoat Rage Gold.  The stuff spreads nice and is very easy to work with.
Tom Rightler

chargerscott


hemi-hampton

I like to use a Wash Primer then the epoxy Primer. LEON.

Todd Wilson

What does the "wash primer" do exactly? Never heard of that type of primer.

Todd

tan top

wash primer is an  etch primer ....... depending what type ... you can either rag it on ( wipe it on with a cloth )  or spray it  

bare metal needs wash/etch primer   ,   :yesnod:
Feel free to post any relevant picture you think we all might like to see in the threads below!

Charger Stuff 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,86777.0.html
Chargers in the background where you least expect them 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,97261.0.html
C500 & Daytonas & Superbirds
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,95432.0.html
Interesting pictures & Stuff 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,109484.925.html
Old Dodge dealer photos wanted
 http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,120850.0.html

mopar0166

Ive been doing some of the same and have been straigtening dents out but i know I will soon be apapproaching this step sooner then later.  for the most part the paint on the car is "ok"  Im looking to just sand off the top layer, apply a good primer, fair out imperfections with mud.   Should i then give it another coat of epoxyprimer?  then paint?     :shruggy

375instroke

Always read the tech sheets.  They're online.  Some things you learn when you read them:  Wash/etch primers are for speed.  PPG makes a DX1791 Self Etching Wash Primer that can be topcoated after 30 minutes, but must be before 24 hours.  DPX170 Wash Primer and DPX171 Non–Chrome Self Etching Primer must also be topcoated within 24 hours, but DP Epoxy Primer is not compatible with it.  How would you know this without reading the sheets?  A better way is to use metal pretreatments, like DX579 Metal Cleaner followed by DX520 Metal Conditioner, and then DP Epoxy Primer.  Apply Evercoat filler over that.  One final thing.  The wash primers and metal treatments are not for use on media blasted steel.  I've never blasted an entire car, so it's not a problem for me, but what does one do if that's what they are working on?

hemi-hampton

375instroke, The DX1791 self etching wash primer is what I use under my DP epoxy primer. I do not use the DPX 170. I go this route, to make along story short is because I feel the Chemicals/additive/ingredients of the Wash Primer is much better & more suitable for Bare metal then just DP epoxy Primer. But I do not like the thin Transparancy of the wash primer so add the extra protection of the Epoxy Primer plus this makes it easier to scuff or sand if sits for long periods. This is just my opinion but never had a Problem. I dont know anybody else that does it this exact way but most just go the fastest cheapest easiest way anyways. In most body shops time is money & the faster, cheaper you are the better you are. I do slow quality work so all the Production crank them out shops do not like my methods. LEON.

P.S. Yes, I have most of the Tech sheets & read them.

hemi-hampton

Heres that 67 Coronet R/T Convertible a few weeks back, have engine compartment primed now & hood. LEON.

The70RT

Wow. Nice job Leon.  :yesnod: I remember the rust bucket pics. It sure has came a long way. I hate to know how many hours is in it already.
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Charger-Bodie

I like both products, But for differant areas of the car and not together.  :Twocents:
68 Charger R/t white with black v/t and red tailstripe. 440 4 speed ,black interior
68 383 auto with a/c and power windows. Now 440 4 speed jj1 gold black interior .
My Charger is a hybrid car, it burns gas and rubber............

375instroke

Quote from: hemi-hampton on October 01, 2008, 07:55:51 PM
375instroke, The DX1791 self etching wash primer is what I use under my DP epoxy primer. I do not use the DPX 170. I go this route, to make along story short is because I feel the Chemicals/additive/ingredients of the Wash Primer is much better & more suitable for Bare metal then just DP epoxy Primer. But I do not like the thin Transparancy of the wash primer so add the extra protection of the Epoxy Primer plus this makes it easier to scuff or sand if sits for long periods. This is just my opinion but never had a Problem. I dont know anybody else that does it this exact way but most just go the fastest cheapest easiest way anyways. In most body shops time is money & the faster, cheaper you are the better you are. I do slow quality work so all the Production crank them out shops do not like my methods. LEON.

P.S. Yes, I have most of the Tech sheets & read them.
The DP is compatible with the DX1791, just not with the DPX170, if there was any confusion.  I agree that the way you do it, the DP over DX1791 is how it could be done.  I also think that that is the fast way.  Just shoot one, then the other.  The tech sheets say the wash primers are for high productivity.  The metal cleaner, then conditioner, takes more steps, labor, and time, but it may be better.  How much better?  Who knows.  Is one going to last 100 years and the other 120?  Are any of these cars going to see any where near the kind of abuse from the elements that they've seen in the previous 40 years?

I'm still wondering on the don't use on media blasted metal statements for the wash primers and metal conditioners.

chargerscott

how do you know whats compatible? i called finish master and they sent me X615s-4 self etch primer , I had DP90LF will this work? :brickwall:

hemi-hampton

In my opinion from my Research Metal Conditionerers are for when you chemically strip a panel, like with aircraft stripper or any chemical stripper or dipped in a tank of stripper. Then your left with smooth shiny clean metel. This can be etched with a metal conditioner, If this is done then you DO NOT use a self Etching Primer. It's one or the other, Never both. The 70 RT, Heres what it looks like now.LEON.

hemi-hampton

Chargerscott, Who makes the x615s-4 primer? Refresh my memmory. :scratchchin:  Is it Dupont.  LEON.

chargerscott

Dupont  variprime is on the can.

69*F5*SE

Yep, Dupont Variprime is an etch primer. Yellowish in color.

hemi-hampton

I asked the paint rep for Dupont Tech sheets & I got a hard time, I have no problem getting any or all sheets needed for PPG but Dupont sucks when it comes to this. We spend $1,000's on dupont paint every month but he sez he can not supply me with all the sheets. I dont like dupont anymore & prefer PPG, I got the Variprime at work & still order the PPG anyways. If you want to know whats compatible with your variprime ask you paint dealer to supply you with a tech sheet to read. LEON. :brickwall:

375instroke

Follow this link to Dupont Product Information, Technical Data Sheets, and Safety Data Sheets

You can get the same for PPG Deltron here: Deltron Product Listings

How do you know what products are compatible?  You need to stay with one system.  You can't mix products from different manufactures and expect success.  They have millions of dollars into research and testing done for you.  Why would you want to experiment for yourself?  By reading Dupont and PPG tech sheets, one can see that two etch primers are not compatible with epoxy primer topcoats, but one is.  The Dupont tech sheet for 820R Wash Primer Filler says "Do not use polyester putty or epoxy primer surfacer over 832R.  Hardening and adhesion of polyester and epoxy products will be affected."  PPG DPX170/171 Self Etch Wash Primer says "Do not apply DP Epoxy Primer over DPX170/ 171."  PPG DX1791 Self Etching Wash Primer lists DP Epoxy Primer as a compatible topcoat. 

chargerscott

i just talk to the finishmaster tech and he said the Dupont self etching primer i bought will work with the DP90 as long as i let it dry for atleast 1 hour. i told him i would let dry overnight and apply he said i will have no issues. what do you think? :brickwall: