voltage regulator question UPDATE

[1968_Charger]

i read somewhere that since i switched from points to electronic that i have to swap the voltage reg. to electronic or the original may causue the ignition module to malfunction. any truth to that?

[Ghoste]

I've never heard or experienced that myself but that doesn't mean anything.  You can get an electronic regulator that plugs right into your existing harness and looks like the stock points type relatively cheaply though so why not do it anyway?

[John_Kunkel]

The theory is that the mechanical points in the original regulator cause electrical "noise" in the system that the ECU doesn't like but I've never seen it cause a problem.

[Nacho-RT74]

I'm just able to say for sure based in my poor experience than ECU modules ( or any electronic ignition system ), needs a good and reliable power source, because if some decay on power, then internals beging to malfunction &/or overheat as any modern electronic device. Mechanical regulators are not same quick response than Electronic regulators when need to increase power for some reason.

for same reason I would advice try to get a GOOD charging net!, not just the regulator.

Maybe what John exposed about the electronical "noise" could be the main reason, being than mechanical regulator is basically a relay, but I'm talking about what I have experienced.

[1968_Charger]

ok i put a new electronic voltage regulator on. the gauge stays in the middle, if i rev it does nothing. if i turn on the turn signal it goes to the negative each time it blinks. my idle is really bad also. my horn also does not work. i figure ive got a ground issue somewhere. where are all the important grounds located, pictures would be great also.
i cleaned the ground strap that goes from the engine to firewall, that didnt help.
i cleaned the back of where the voltage regulator hooks up, that didnt help
i cleaned the back of the ignition module, that didnt help.
alternator was fine before my voltage regulator blew out
what could it be?

[John_Kunkel]

Is the regulator an electronic replacement for the original with a threaded connector on one side and a spade connector on the other?

If so, with the engine running, you need to test for battery voltage on the IGN side of the regulator and regulated voltage on the other side. If there is voltage on both sides the regulator is OK.

Next, apply battery voltage to the field terminal on the alternator, the voltage should jump up to 14-15 volts; if not the alternator is faulty.

[1968_Charger]

thanks,
i found out that the new regulator was bad. 
i bought another and it works fine.