finally got the motor! *INSTALL PICS* -its running!-VIDEO * ITS ON THE STREET!*

[SFRT]

buttoned up



coil is mounted to the inner fender, as far away from heat and vibration as possible.



great minds think alike

[SFRT]

the serpentine mount for the fan pushed it all forward 3/16th's. it seems to clear ok, but I'd like more clearnce between the fan and the radiator.



shelves are finally starting to empty out



another shot of the springs

used the original bracket up on a couple of pieces of aluminum hex I had .

[SFRT]

probably stupid overkill, but I dont want to melt anything


I think these might go on tommorrow



9 pm sunday....

[SFRT]

I'm feeling good about how its progressing. my only doubt is the stainless line covers. They are starting to look a little ghetto too me I will probaly end up stripping them off.

tommorrow we will try to finish up the last of the wiring...it is taking forever, but everything is being soldered and wrapped so....it's worth the time I think.

heres a shot of the vacuum lines...the pump is tied into the engine so that even if it fails, I wil at least have something for the brakes. the headlights will also run off this pump setup. looks messy, but it should work well.

[moparstuart]

 thats the same vaccuum pump i bought works well !!

[Blown70]

MAN NICE WORK.  I love following this THREAD!!

[SFRT]

thats the same vaccuum pump i bought works well !!

cool. good to hear. how loud is it?

[moparstuart]

  thats the bad , it is really loud and vibrates the whole car

[SFRT]

MAN NICE WORK.  I love following this THREAD!!

thanks man! I am trying to do it right and strike a good balance between performance, reliability, access for maintenance and as clean of a look as I can get.

[SFRT]

  thats the bad , it is really loud and vibrates the whole car

I was afraid of that. I isolated the tray its on as much as I could with some rubber pads....maybe I will wrap it in some sort of sound deadening material as well, like make a 'sock' for it. or maybe relocate it to the trunk inside a foamed out battery box or something.

[FLG]

If its too much you can always go hydroboost,

http://hydratechbraking.com/products/mopar_b_body/

[SFRT]

yeah I wish I had known about that before I did it all, kind off too late to go back and redo it all.

[CB]

any update? sound?
CB

[moparstuart]

I'm feeling good about how its progressing. my only doubt is the stainless line covers. They are starting to look a little ghetto too me I will probaly end up stripping them off.

tommorrow we will try to finish up the last of the wiring...it is taking forever, but everything is being soldered and wrapped so....it's worth the time I think.

heres a shot of the vacuum lines...the pump is tied into the engine so that even if it fails, I wil at least have something for the brakes. the headlights will also run off this pump setup. looks messy, but it should work well.

question why do you have two hoses on the pump ?  one port is just and exhaust port ? no need for hose

[firefighter3931]

  thats the bad , it is really loud and vibrates the whole car

I was afraid of that. I isolated the tray its on as much as I could with some rubber pads....maybe I will wrap it in some sort of sound deadening material as well, like make a 'sock' for it. or maybe relocate it to the trunk inside a foamed out battery box or something.

Another option for mounting the vacuum pump is up in the driver side wheelwell. 

That xe275hl cam should make lots of vacuum....plenty for a PB booster. You really don't need the vac pump, inmo. 



Ron

[472 R/T SE]

  thats the bad , it is really loud and vibrates the whole car

I was afraid of that. I isolated the tray its on as much as I could with some rubber pads....maybe I will wrap it in some sort of sound deadening material as well, like make a 'sock' for it. or maybe relocate it to the trunk inside a foamed out battery box or something.

I tell everyone it's an electric fuel pump.    We mounted mine under the battery tray next to the 6al.




I noticed your torque strap mount is on the top of the K frame.  Any reason why you didn't mount it from the bottom?

Nice work.  The flat black will be deceiving.

[SFRT]

should it be bottom mounted? if so, easy to do so.

thanks.!

[FLG]

Did you get the mount from schumaker??

From the pics on there site they mount them the way you have it.

[472 R/T SE]

Honestly can't remember how I did mine is why I asked, back when the 440 was in it.  I thought I mounted it from the bottom but can't remember if the sway bar mount was in the way or not.    Did the sway bar set up change in '68 or '69?  Mine was used so I never had any instructions.

From the bottom you're using the K-frame for bearing.  On top most definitely grade 8 bolts cause they're taking most of the load that is if your mounts are toast.  You'll only bust thru the mounts once cause after you fix everything from the motor laying over you'll do whatever it takes to keep from happening again.   

[SFRT]

yes, I followed the pictures in the kit at the time, they show it on top. I will check it down the road and see if starts to crack, becuase bottom makes more sense......

to answer about the vacuum pump..its my understanding that both the nozzles are 2 way check valves, so the pump is rigged with the 'exhaust' port going into the block, and a switch/sensor deal off of a Mercedes that only runs the pump when the engine vacuum gets too low, so that way the pump isnt running constantly...but is more of an assist...if that makes sense, that way I am not 100% reliant on a pump that might fail for the brakes.

finally got the exhaust in:



it took 2 of us about 9 hours total ( 18 man hours) to get it in and snugged and not hitting anything. managed to fit it with only some minor cutting of the collectors and a whole lot of fitting, refitting, etc. it was a total PITA, but its on the car now and apart from a couple of spot welds on the collectors and fitting the tips, will be done tommorrow. last giant hurdle, I hope.






got the final touches ( rear bumperettes-THANKS RYAN YOU RULE!-) on the back




I THINK we maight try to fire it up tommorrow.

[PocketThunder]

    I live vicariously thru you and the bear...    

[SFRT]

some other infos...since the battery is in the trunk, and I have a bunch of electrics up in the area where the battery is i ran a total of 3 heavy duty grounding straps...one from the battery bulkhead connector to the rear frame rail, one from the engine block to the transmission crossmember and a third one from the 'electrical device area' to the front of the block.

and, since the msd unit allows 2 settings, I am also putting in a secret rev limiter switch so that if anyone other than myself ever has to drive the car, they wont be able to get crazy with it.

theres also a secret main power kill switch.

'paranoia is nothing more  than total awareness'

lol

[CB]

thanks for the update!

Is it because of the elec. cut-outs that you guys had troubles fitting in the TTi exhaust?
CB

[SFRT]

no..it is just that it is a HUGE exhaust  ( not to mention it was the first time I installed a full system I am sure there are some tricks of the trade I missed out on that woulda made it easier) and there are 2 headers, 7  pipe pieces , 2 mufflers and 4 hangers, all of which 'interact', so that if you move one piece, the rest have to be adjusted as well, and they all have fit 'relaxed' when you do the final bolt to the headers. so like, we would get it all lined up, then notice 1 area was rubbing on the body or something, then have to re-tweak all the pieces...over and over.  the goal was even clearance everywhere of at least 1/8th of an inch without 'binding the headers. that has been achieved, without having to heat and bend the aluminized pipes, which I really wanted to avoid. we ended up having to relocate the routing of the rear fuel lines, one of the brake lines, cutting some length of the collectors and grinding a little bit more on the bellhousing. I still think the starter is going to bind into that header so tommorrow I am going to fix that as well.

the cutouts, had no effect on it they are just hanging out in open space behind the end of the torsion bars. also, surprisingly, the safety loop cleared just fine as well.

[CB]

no..it is just that it is a HUGE exhaust  ( not to mention it was the first time I installed a full system I am sure there are some tricks of the trade I missed out on that woulda made it easier) and there are 2 headers, 7  pipe pieces , 2 mufflers and 4 hangers, all of which 'interact', so that if you move one piece, the rest have to be adjusted as well, and they all have fit 'relaxed' when you do the final bolt to the headers. so like, we would get it all lined up, then notice 1 area was rubbing on the body or something, then have to re-tweak all the pieces...over and over.  the goal was even clearance everywhere of at least 1/8th of an inch without 'binding the headers. that has been achieved, without having to heat and bend the aluminized pipes, which I really wanted to avoid. we ended up having to relocate the routing of the rear fuel lines, one of the brake lines, cutting some length of the collectors and grinding a little bit more on the bellhousing. I still think the starter is going to bind into that header so tommorrow I am going to fix that as well.

the cutouts, had no effect on it they are just hanging out in open space behind the end of the torsion bars. also, surprisingly, the safety loop cleared just fine as well.

Yea I imagined that you would 'fine-tune' the exhaust too, meaning that it would fit perfectly.
Again, your work is  , I love this threat!
CB