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Where can I buy good, high quality 440 headers? (73 Charger)

Started by HKCharger, September 17, 2008, 08:32:13 PM

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41husk

I have a set of headmen s on my 73 and I am seriously thinking about going to HP exhaust instead.  Any time you need to get to the starter (lately that has been often, you need to undue moter mounts and lift the engine up 4" to get the driver side off, due to the steering gear.  and they are a little tougher to install.  I think the headmans are good.  I have had problems with headers leaking.  I tried double gaskets etc.  also make sure you use header gaskets not stock exhaust gaskets, but I would strongly suggest you avoid them. :Twocents:
1969 Dodge Charger 500 440/727
1970 Challenger convertible 340/727
1970 Plymouth Duster FM3
1974 Dodge Dart /6/904
1983 Plymouth Scamp GT 2.2 Auto
1950 Dodge Pilot house pick up

MOPARHOUND!

Doug Thorley's at Summit, in the $300.00 range.  Good feedback on them.  Similar design to TTI, but at half the price.

I would use a quality torque strap, as all engines move/twist under accelaration, twisting the exhaust system.   Bought mine from Schumacher (also use their Urethane Trans. Mount):

http://www.engine-swaps.com/
1971 Charger R/T, 440 H.P., Auto, A/C Daily Driven (till gas went nuts).  NOW IN CARS FOR SALE SECTION: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,48709.0.html
1969 Charger 318/Auto (latest addtion): http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,31948.0.html
*Speed costs money son, how fast do you want to go, and for how long?"
*"Build the biggest engine you can afford the first time."
*"We normally wouldn't use a 383 for this build, parts and labor for a 440 cost the same."

MOPARHOUND!

Also, see my reply in this "Stupid Header Gasket" thread about torqueing the header bolts.  Other members also share their opinion.

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,26632.0.html
1971 Charger R/T, 440 H.P., Auto, A/C Daily Driven (till gas went nuts).  NOW IN CARS FOR SALE SECTION: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,48709.0.html
1969 Charger 318/Auto (latest addtion): http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,31948.0.html
*Speed costs money son, how fast do you want to go, and for how long?"
*"Build the biggest engine you can afford the first time."
*"We normally wouldn't use a 383 for this build, parts and labor for a 440 cost the same."

HKCharger

Quote from: 41husk on September 18, 2008, 07:53:49 AM
I have a set of headmen s on my 73 and I am seriously thinking about going to HP exhaust instead.  Any time you need to get to the starter (lately that has been often, you need to undue moter mounts and lift the engine up 4" to get the driver side off, due to the steering gear.  and they are a little tougher to install.  I think the headmans are good.  I have had problems with headers leaking.  I tried double gaskets etc.  also make sure you use header gaskets not stock exhaust gaskets, but I would strongly suggest you avoid them. :Twocents:

thanks, but avoid what?

HKCharger

Quote from: 41husk on September 18, 2008, 07:53:49 AM
I have a set of headmen s on my 73 and I am seriously thinking about going to HP exhaust instead.  Any time you need to get to the starter (lately that has been often, you need to undue moter mounts and lift the engine up 4" to get the driver side off, due to the steering gear.  and they are a little tougher to install.  I think the headmans are good.  I have had problems with headers leaking.  I tried double gaskets etc.  also make sure you use header gaskets not stock exhaust gaskets, but I would strongly suggest you avoid them. :Twocents:

So you say HEDMAN?

41husk

I have had good luck with those as far as not leaking, but they are a pain, you have to run the mini starter.  The full size will not fit, and you need to slide the starter in the spot in the headers before lowerin engine completly onto mounts (if engine is already in you need to undue the moter mounts on a 73 you just need to loosen the bolt and it will lift out of the mounts.  lift it about 4' until you can get them on the studs over the steering geer)
1969 Dodge Charger 500 440/727
1970 Challenger convertible 340/727
1970 Plymouth Duster FM3
1974 Dodge Dart /6/904
1983 Plymouth Scamp GT 2.2 Auto
1950 Dodge Pilot house pick up

coldfilter

Headman headers will work with a full size starter.    I have a 72 with a full size starter.   But its is 10 times more a pain to bolt everything up with a full size starter.  The only thing i would be leary of is the fact that my header is pointing tward the belly a little bit.  Otherwise i think they are pretty good.


Runner

id personally run a hooker over a headman, but id also give thorleys some serious though.    i have hookers on my 71 rr and headmans on everything else i own.   hookers have alot of room around a mini starter. i dont know how well the hooker  clears a power steering gear box on a tall deck but on a low deck it clears well,   the headmans on my daughters 440 powered car has clearance issues with the steering box and the miny starter.   on my low decks the hookers have no fitment issue but of the 3 sets i have, i cant get 1of them to seal no matter what i do.  if you run a headman elite they have nice thick flanges and are alumicoated ( not ceramic coated)  but the cheapo headmans have the thinest flages of any header.    headman headers have 1/4 inch flanges, hookers have 5/16 and i believe tti and thorleys have 3/8 inch flanges.  i dont know how well the tti or thorleys fit a mini starter but headmans dont fit very well..... with that said i have a friend with an older set and his headmans clears his power steering box and mini starter.  good luck

71 roadrunner 452 e heads  11.35@119 mph owned sence 1984
72 panther pink satellite sebring plus 383 727
68 satellite 383 4 speed  13.80 @ 102 mph  my daily driver
69 superbee clone 440    daughters car
72 dodge dart swinger slant six

Charger74

I ran Hooker super comps on my 440.  Nice headers, but yes a complete pita to change the starter unless you have a mini.

MOPARHOUND!

Why Doug Thorley has a good reputation, click this link:  http://www.moparts.org/Tech/Archive/exhaust/17.html

If you are not restoring the car to factory condition, then I would highly reccommend the mini-starter whether you have headers or not.  Lighter, more cranking power, easier to work around.  Tried one, and I wouldn't go back to the bulkier, heavier, slower cranking factory starter.
1971 Charger R/T, 440 H.P., Auto, A/C Daily Driven (till gas went nuts).  NOW IN CARS FOR SALE SECTION: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,48709.0.html
1969 Charger 318/Auto (latest addtion): http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,31948.0.html
*Speed costs money son, how fast do you want to go, and for how long?"
*"Build the biggest engine you can afford the first time."
*"We normally wouldn't use a 383 for this build, parts and labor for a 440 cost the same."

terrible one

Quote from: MOPARHOUND! on September 18, 2008, 08:21:21 AM
Doug Thorley's at Summit, in the $300.00 range.  Good feedback on them.  Similar design to TTI, but at half the price.

I would use a quality torque strap, as all engines move/twist under accelaration, twisting the exhaust system.   Bought mine from Schumacher (also use their Urethane Trans. Mount):

http://www.engine-swaps.com/

How much did the torque strap set you back?

MOPARHOUND!

IIRC, $75-85???  or, that might have been for the trans mount?  Ordered directly from them.  I also bought there driver's side "magnum mount" with bolt through it to prevent the engine from tearing the mount in two pieces like my car had when I got it.

The transmission mount was also toast when I got the car, so I put a parts store trans mount in.  But, the 496's torque tore it up within a few 100 miles.  Thus, I then bought the urethane trans mount, and the torque strap kit.

I think Mancini or Muscle Motors(?) sells a cheap kit to modify your trans mount with a urethane insert??  Also, a factory motor mount can be modified similar to a "magnum mount" cheaply with a drill, a 1/4" bolt, and some effective hillbilly engineering (an old drag racer mod).  A cheap torque strap can also be fabricated from some flat/angle iron, but I like the adjustability and the shock-dampening rubber bushings on the Schumacher torque strap.
1971 Charger R/T, 440 H.P., Auto, A/C Daily Driven (till gas went nuts).  NOW IN CARS FOR SALE SECTION: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,48709.0.html
1969 Charger 318/Auto (latest addtion): http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,31948.0.html
*Speed costs money son, how fast do you want to go, and for how long?"
*"Build the biggest engine you can afford the first time."
*"We normally wouldn't use a 383 for this build, parts and labor for a 440 cost the same."

HKCharger

how much power are headers good for? worth the $500-ish?

Runner

some people like headers and some people hate them.   they will typically pic most combos up some.  it really depends on the combo to what degree it will pick up the power. im pretty sure if i put manifolds on my roadrunner it would kill a bunch of power, however i dont think id notice the differeance if i put manifolds back on my wifes stock 318 satellite.   would it be worth it to you?     only you can answer that question.  i like headers and dont have problems with them like alot of people do.  some people complain about changing plugs and starters with them, but to me it just isnt that big of a deal. 

71 roadrunner 452 e heads  11.35@119 mph owned sence 1984
72 panther pink satellite sebring plus 383 727
68 satellite 383 4 speed  13.80 @ 102 mph  my daily driver
69 superbee clone 440    daughters car
72 dodge dart swinger slant six

71charger_fan

If you want top quality headers that will fit, clear your starter, and last a long time, spend the bucks and get Schumacher. They may cost a few peak HP over Hedman or Hooker, but are you really going to use those last 5 to 10 ponies?

Ghoste


HKCharger

Quote from: 71charger_fan on September 20, 2008, 11:11:31 PM
If you want top quality headers that will fit, clear your starter, and last a long time, spend the bucks and get Schumacher. They may cost a few peak HP over Hedman or Hooker, but are you really going to use those last 5 to 10 ponies?

nice, where can I buy those?

71charger_fan

http://www.engine-swaps.com/

If you're in the military, or have an APO address, they'll usually knock ten percent off.

HKCharger

here is what he quoted me:

Ceramic coated @ $775.00
W/ $30.00 S/H

71charger_fan

That's about $5 more than I paid last winter. I replaced a rusty set of Hedman Huslers. The Hedmans fit fine and worked great. They weren't even very hard to install. Much easier than the Blackjacks that they replaced. I figured this set of headers would be the last set I'd ever buy for this car, so I went with the best fit. Plus, I can get to the starter without having to remove the header. You'll save a lot of money going with Hedmans. You pay your money, you take your choice. Look at all the options, decide what you need, get that.

terrible one

Quote from: MOPARHOUND! on September 19, 2008, 04:04:07 PM
IIRC, $75-85???  or, that might have been for the trans mount?  Ordered directly from them.  I also bought there driver's side "magnum mount" with bolt through it to prevent the engine from tearing the mount in two pieces like my car had when I got it.

The transmission mount was also toast when I got the car, so I put a parts store trans mount in.  But, the 496's torque tore it up within a few 100 miles.  Thus, I then bought the urethane trans mount, and the torque strap kit.

I think Mancini or Muscle Motors(?) sells a cheap kit to modify your trans mount with a urethane insert??  Also, a factory motor mount can be modified similar to a "magnum mount" cheaply with a drill, a 1/4" bolt, and some effective hillbilly engineering (an old drag racer mod).  A cheap torque strap can also be fabricated from some flat/angle iron, but I like the adjustability and the shock-dampening rubber bushings on the Schumacher torque strap.

Thank you!  :2thumbs:

Blown68Coronet

Three letters come to mind.......TTI.
I have Hooker Super Comp 2"  :eek2: and when they're done i'm going with TTI's, great fit, lot's of clearance.

When we installed them on Ron's(Firefighter 3931) 68 Charger, the engine & tranny were in the car bolted down, all we did is install from underneath and bolted them on!!! Try that with hedmans or Hookers! Hint....YOU CAN'T! :nana: :D

41husk

what is the cost on a set of TTI headers for a big block?  Is there a different model for 2nd and 3rd gen?  can remove/install headers w/o unbolting headers?
1969 Dodge Charger 500 440/727
1970 Challenger convertible 340/727
1970 Plymouth Duster FM3
1974 Dodge Dart /6/904
1983 Plymouth Scamp GT 2.2 Auto
1950 Dodge Pilot house pick up

71charger_fan

If you can remove/install headers without unbolting headers, you're the master. Did you perhaps mean to say starter? You can with Schumacher, which is why I went with them.

41husk

yes I wanted to say starter :slap:  I would be very good if I could remove headers w/o unbolting them :shruggy:
1969 Dodge Charger 500 440/727
1970 Challenger convertible 340/727
1970 Plymouth Duster FM3
1974 Dodge Dart /6/904
1983 Plymouth Scamp GT 2.2 Auto
1950 Dodge Pilot house pick up

73TXRallye440


73TXRallye440

Quote from: MOPARHOUND! on September 19, 2008, 08:55:48 AM
Why Doug Thorley has a good reputation, click this link:  http://www.moparts.org/Tech/Archive/exhaust/17.html

If you are not restoring the car to factory condition, then I would highly reccommend the mini-starter whether you have headers or not.  Lighter, more cranking power, easier to work around.  Tried one, and I wouldn't go back to the bulkier, heavier, slower cranking factory starter.

what;s the best mini-starter?

71charger_fan

I was wrong, I just found the receipt for my Schumachers. For the ceramic-coated, being given a military discount, I paid $727.50.