727 rebuild stressing me out...

[moparfreak]

So, I have less than three weeks to meet my goal of driving my charger onto the trailer to head back home to WI from MI...

My 727 rebuild was coming along nicely. Yesterday I was at the point of assembling the front and rear clutch packs to the front pump to air test the clutch packs. But I couldn't get the freaking pump down on the input shaft right. Those sealing rings are not cooperating. Me and a friend just COULD NOT get it past the second ring, so I couldn't air check the clutches.

If I can't engage the pump correctly to the clutch retainers while out of the case, I don't stand a chance assembling it together in the case. Is there something I'm missing here?

My other question, I got a rebuilt stock torque converter. Problem is that my mark on the old one which shows me where to line up w/ the flex plate is now gone, as I dont' have the old one anymore. How do I know how do orient the converter to the flex plate when it comes time to install??

Getting stressed....

Adam

PS. good to see a charger forum up again...I thought I was going to have to figure things out myself for a bit.

[joecharger66]

Sorry that I don't have any info for you. My 727 just died on me and I was wondering if I was going to take to AAMCO or not. My problem might be simple, or it could be catastrophic. Simply, my car came to a halt as I was driving down the street and it seemed like the tranny just bound up. Even with my foot on the gas, it didn't move until I moved the gear shift lever into low, then the car moved again... any ideas?

Joe

[RD]

So, I have less than three weeks to meet my goal of driving my charger onto the trailer to head back home to WI from MI...

My 727 rebuild was coming along nicely. Yesterday I was at the point of assembling the front and rear clutch packs to the front pump to air test the clutch packs. But I couldn't get the freaking pump down on the input shaft right. Those sealing rings are not cooperating. Me and a friend just COULD NOT get it past the second ring, so I couldn't air check the clutches.

did you lubricate the sealing rings on the pump?  a dab of dexron over those will help them slide into the front drum.

If I can't engage the pump correctly to the clutch retainers while out of the case, I don't stand a chance assembling it together in the case. Is there something I'm missing here?

Why are you doing this?  Are you afraid that your pump does not work?

My other question, I got a rebuilt stock torque converter. Problem is that my mark on the old one which shows me where to line up w/ the flex plate is now gone, as I dont' have the old one anymore. How do I know how do orient the converter to the flex plate when it comes time to install??

take your flexplate, line it up on your tq conv. and spray paint one bolt hole.  When it comes time to mount up the tq conv to your flexplate, the paint marking will guide you to the correct bolt holes.

[moparfreak]

I'm not afraid that my pump doesn't work, I just wanted to make sure the clutches would engage, and I haven't misinstalled a seal or assembled anything incorrectly, cause once those clutches go in, I don't want to take them out for anything.

I put a lot of assembly lube on there. It has to be something with the sealing rings on the input shaft. I put in some teflon ones, and in the process of putting the pump on, the rings tore up. So, I put the metal hook style rings back in, and those wouldn't budge, the pump just wont' go down.  I'm going try engaging the pump on the input shaft w/ the front clutch off so maybe I can get a better view...

I think my goal of being able to drive my charger from my wedding might not be attainable 

We'll see what happens tongiht.

Adam

[Silver R/T]

Sorry that I don't have any info for you. My 727 just died on me and I was wondering if I was going to take to AAMCO or not. My problem might be simple, or it could be catastrophic. Simply, my car came to a halt as I was driving down the street and it seemed like the tranny just bound up. Even with my foot on the gas, it didn't move until I moved the gear shift lever into low, then the car moved again... any ideas?

Joe

sounds like just one of the gears went out

[RD]

Sorry that I don't have any info for you. My 727 just died on me and I was wondering if I was going to take to AAMCO or not. My problem might be simple, or it could be catastrophic. Simply, my car came to a halt as I was driving down the street and it seemed like the tranny just bound up. Even with my foot on the gas, it didn't move until I moved the gear shift lever into low, then the car moved again... any ideas?

Joe

i am not sure, could be one of many things.  you will need to do an inspection of the tranny while it is still mounted in the car or drop the tranny and tear it apart to see what is going on.

[RD]

I'm not afraid that my pump doesn't work, I just wanted to make sure the clutches would engage, and I haven't misinstalled a seal or assembled anything incorrectly, cause once those clutches go in, I don't want to take them out for anything.

I put a lot of assembly lube on there. It has to be something with the sealing rings on the input shaft. I put in some teflon ones, and in the process of putting the pump on, the rings tore up. So, I put the metal hook style rings back in, and those wouldn't budge, the pump just wont' go down.   I'm going try engaging the pump on the input shaft w/ the front clutch off so maybe I can get a better view...

I think my goal of being able to drive my charger from my wedding might not be attainable  

We'll see what happens tongiht.

Adam

whenever i put a pump in on a 727 it is always somewhat difficult to seat, but it does.  Give it a little more pressure and dont be afraid to break it.  Unless you have the wrong rings in there, I would not fret and being a little more forceful.

[John_Kunkel]

You need to isolate the problem.

You don't need the entire pump installed on the clutches for an air check, just the reaction shaft support will do. Separate the clutch packs and install them one at a time in the reaction shaft support to be sure the rings are actually the point of interference.

A stock converter will usually have a "0" or a sideways "V" stamped in the front near the ring gear, this lines up with the small hole in the flexplate.

[moparfreak]

Last night I took off the reaction shaft support, tried installing it first just on the rear clutch pack.

With the rings installed on the input shaft, there was definitely intereference. Then, I took the rings out and put the reaction shaft support back on, better, but it still didn't seem to bottom out the way it should!

Then, when I re-installed the rings, I flipped them, thinking that I maybe mixed them up in the first place. Then I installed the front clutch pack, and then the reaction shaft support.

This time, I think I got past the rings, but I still had that problem where it won't quite reach that last 1/4". It feels like solid metal on metal, the thing won't even spin. When I was getting interference w/ the rings, I could still spin it or turn it a bit.

It's at the point where I can still just see the second ring on the reaction shaft support.

How much is the input shaft supposed to stick out past the splines on the reaction shaft support? Mine right now sticks out a shade under 1-1/8". My gut is it needs to be around 1-3/8".

W/o this figured out I can't really move on...

Adam

[John_Kunkel]

First off, what year transmission are you dealing with? Are all of the hard parts from the same transmission?

There should be at least 1 1/2" of input shaft splines exposed in front of the reaction shaft support, the actual dimension depends on the thickness of the selectable fiber thrust washers.

Was the input shaft bushing at the rear of the reaction shaft support replaced? If so, it might be too tight, some precision measuring is in order.

[moparfreak]

John,

The torqueflight is out of a '73 mated to a 400 BB.

Except for steels and clutches, all the hard parts are exactly the same as when they came out. I've replaced everything rubber, but that shouldn't affect it.

However, I did replace all the bushings. The reaction shaft support bushing I actually replaced myself, since it was still w/in the realm of my small bushing driver set.

I will take a calipers to it tonight. What is the dimension supposed to be for that bushing? How much clearance should there be between the ID of the bushing and OD of the shaft?

Thanks,
Adam

[beenaround]

? are you using any new hard parts ?such as the front pump or front clutch retaianer.

[John_Kunkel]

However, I did replace all the bushings. The reaction shaft support bushing I actually replaced myself, since it was still w/in the realm of my small bushing driver set.

I will take a calipers to it tonight. What is the dimension supposed to be for that bushing? How much clearance should there be between the ID of the bushing and OD of the shaft?

That bushing isn't normally replaced since it seldom shows wear. The factory bushing is reamed with a taper at the rear to allow the rings to enter the bushing more easily, the replacement bushing will have a blunt end.