Dan's Long Annoying Engine Problem Thread

[bordin34]

Another thing I am concerned about is that the pushrods have some surface rust on them in places. Will this pose a problem?

[firefighter3931]

Thanks, I found everything I need my only question as of right now is when it says set does that mean enough for one head or both?

Both heads...all 16 valves. 

Another thing I am concerned about is that the pushrods have some surface rust on them in places. Will this pose a problem?

No problem....just use some emory cloth to clean them up and re-install.

I just looked at the Master Cylinder I bought and it doesn't have a piston retainer screw. Will it be OK to take it off my old one and put it in this one.

Are you asking about the bushing that holds the pushrod into the back of the master ? If so....you definately need one of those ! 

Here is an update, I cleaned and reinstalled the spark plugs. The car idles nice and smooth and drives great. I think that since there was no oil on them they will run good until fouled by the bad guide seals. I will be ordering seals, brakes, and wires tonight.

Oil fouled plugs don't fire very well. Get those valve seals replaced and install some good ignition wires and it will run and idle much better. 


Keep up the good work Dan ! 




Ron

[FLG]

Hey Dan keep us updated.

My goal over the winter is about the same. Finally do the front end, new K-frame, and freshen up the 400 a bit.


If you need anything just ask

[bordin34]

I am talking about the phillips head screw on the smaller side of the MC, actually in the reservoir.
I have one side ready to go and will do it all on Thursday. Right now I have absolutely no money at all, so I can't get plug wires and am stuck with my 3000+ohm per foot ones on there now.
When I started it up to back it into the garage yesterday, it was like a mosquito fogger.
Frank, what rear, and gears do you have? We have got to race each other at E-town sometime.

[FLG]

Think 3.23 but possibly high 2's. Im completely down for a drag bro, BEFORE this winter officially starts. Lets get em down there.

Im going to E-Town one of these upcomming weeks and flogging the crap out of her 

[bordin34]

It's gotta be After the winter for me because I don't get my license until then.

[FLG]

Well when do ya get it?

[bordin34]

Feb. 10 and I plan to drive the Charger on that day regardless of weather.

[FLG]

Cool. I hope to have mine back together by than. Figure ill be taking it apart some in the next month to freshen it up (and finally get that damn engine bay painted black) 

[bordin34]

Today I tried doing one exhaust seal and failed. I couldn't get the keeper off. I could get them all loose and flopping around so they were in a "V" but couldn't remove them. Any special tips I tried using a magnetic thing and my fingers.

[bordin34]

So far I have replaced the 1 and 8 seals. The exhaust ones were probably fine but the intake seals were barely even snug on the stem. I have also found that the intake keepers are 1000 times easier to install and remove.

[bordin34]

I finished them all and they will definitely seal better. Most of the intake ones weren't even snug on the stem these new ones fit much better. I will button everything up on Tuesday and hopefully take it for a test drive. Also, when removing the rocker shaft I noticed one of the bolts was an inch longer then the others and different. It seems that the shop just took a random grade 5 bolt and threw it in there. I am going to go to the hardware store and buy a correct length grade 5 or replace every one with a correct length grade 8.

[bordin34]

The engine is all buttoned up and I will test it out tomorrow. I also made a heat shield for one spark plug boot that was being melted on the headers.

[bordin34]

I started it up today and it smoked a little bit at start-up. I think most of it was from all the oil dripping onto the headers. Now I just need to get my timing set right, I believe I have it a little bit too advanced.

[FLG]

Awesome!

My 400 seems to like it almost at 14* initial and i also run the vac advance to full manifold vacuum.

[bordin34]

I took it out for about a 15 mile test drive today. The car ran great barely stumbled and made decent power. On the highway it was fine but the rpms are a little high. I drove about 8 miles on the highway at 50-65mph at 3000rpm and it ran great. With about one mile left, I had to stop at a light and the car started surging, luckily it didn't stall. Then about 1/2 mile up the road going around a turn the car died. Totally dead wouldn't even crank. Earlier in the ride I went over a bump and the car died at 40mph and restarted itself, so I thought nothing of it. I think my battery cables were too loose and in turn it wasn't charging, or the bump totally screwed something up. With jumpers we were able to restart it and drive it home. After the restart it ran great and didn't even stumble when I moved from a stop. Any suggestions or comments are welcome.
Dan

[FLG]

Take out your multimeter and make sure its charging. Also make sure all the connections on the alt are good.

Sounds like the alt isnt charging/or the battery cables are not connected properly. Since it just died over a bump...its hard to tell, maybe check your connections at the coil or at your resistor. Did you have lights when it died the second time?

Also make sure the connection to the starter relay is good. Mine sometimes is a little tricky and needs a bump, i just tigntend it all down and its been good.

[bordin34]

I have no multimeter but the ammeter was right in the middle the entire time. My positive battery cable was slightly loose so I could easily disconnect and connect it. My connections at the coil and resistor seem fine. I didn't use the lights at all. My other theory is that my ammeter connections are loose. Also when I was under WOT on the highway the tach was jumping like crazy almost full sweeps and made no power, but under even a little less than WOT and it was fine.

[FLG]

Might want to check the carb, think it might be time for a rebuild or a new one all together. Could be connections at the ampmeter, had a similar problem last year with no power.

[bordin34]

A family friend said he would rebuild the carb for me so I am going to do that. Also, I was thinking about when it stalled the first time, I still had power steering so I don't think it stalled I think it popped into neutral because that little rod is below my headers. The second time it stalled was halfway around a turn and when the steering tightened up it was scary.

[bordin34]

New theory  the tach was jumping around under WOT because the battery did not have enough power to make a spark at a higher rpm so it only got enough spark for a lower rpm.

[1969chargerrtse]

Your also going to need the attachment to screw into the spark plug hole and an air compressor. Fill the cylinder up with compressed air so you dont drop the valve into the cylinder.

Dan
you can also use rope to fill up the cylinder to keep the valve from dropping.  Cheaper than a compressor and attachment if coinage is an issue.

What a cool idea.   

[bordin34]

I have found that the green wire on the top back part of the alternator was cracked and not connected. I temporarily fixed it and need to get a new blade type terminal. Hopefully that will fix my charging problem.
Now onto my not shifting into 3rd gear...

[FLG]

Improperly adjusted throttle pressure linkage? Theres a DIY on the forum, should be under "Adjusting kickdown linkage" john knuckel? i believe it was who explained it.

[bordin34]

The kick down is adjusted correctly I have checked it multiple times. Over at C-C.com one guy suggested that it could be the front drum going.