Dan's Long Annoying Engine Problem Thread

[bordin34]

I am still troubleshooting my engine problems that have been occurring since easter. I have been hearing some bad things about the Holley Street Avengers like on my car and similar issues to what I am having. Somebody also cross-threaded a jet on the primary side. My floats are also different the primary one is brass while the secondary is plastic. I want to be sure that the carb is or is not the problem but do not have a spare and the one time I had a spare, the ballast went bad. So, can anybody lend me a carb for an afternoon?
Thanks,
Dan

[bordin34]

Here is my latest theory after going to a cruise night with a help sign. Rust or debris stirred up in the tank and clogging the sock or fuel filter.

[mikepmcs]

Dan,
That cross threaded jet can't be helping much either IMO.  I wish I lived closer, I'd lend you  mine.


I'm guessing you no longer have the other car with the 318?

v/r
Mike

[bordin34]

My other Charger has been long gone and probably in Croatia by now. I wrote down the numbers on the metering block but can't find any that match to get a replacement. Also, i don't think the secondaries are working much if at all because the fuel I drained out of the bowl was piss yellow.

[bordin34]

I change my mind a lot on the theory as to why this is happening. Right now it is that the distributor can't keep time right. I just remembered that when I had the timing light on it awhile back that the light would randomly jump around sometimes.  This is in addition to what I believe could be carb problems.
My theory will change almost daily if I have touched the car. Hopefully I can get a compression gauge soon and run the test that I should have done 6 months ago.

[bordin34]

Today I check some more things.
I removed about 5 plugs and all of them were oily and smelled like oil. The passenger side however was more oily.
I also removed the distributor and the reluctor or whatever that spinny 8 sided thing is hits the pickup.

[bordin34]

Another update- I bought some feeler gauges and set the gap at .008" the car still seems to run the same. The vacuum advance works and it doesn't seem like there is any noticeable play in the distributor. I set the timing decently and it still surges at idle. Partial throttle drive ability seems improved. Also because the timing is not spot on it backfires under anything other that partial throttle. Another thing I found was "EP-45" on the camshaft.
I replaced the fuel filter again and there was some rust in the old one but I think that's normal. I also fixed a pinhole in the valve cover.
My new theory is that my problem is a combination of ignition and carburation. I might get a summit digital ignition box and see if it helps, but before that I need to do a compression check.

[bordin34]

Here is my latest theory after setting the timing right and driving it...
I believe my secondaries are not working right if at all and that is why is backfires when given more throttle but doesn't when given gradual throttle.

[FLG]

Have you tried making your secondaries open earlier?

[bordin34]

I have not done anything on the carb really. I don't have another spring to adjust the secondaries with. I believe they are not working because the fuel I drained out of them was a rich amber color.

[bordin34]

My new theory, it really changes a lot. I think the timing chain jumped a tooth and the carb is bad.

[r73mopar]

i just had a simalar problem with mine and it turned out to be the ballast resister. i checked carb,plugs,wires,ignition, distributer, i bought all new and then turd out to be a 6 dollar part. that stunk!!!

[bordin34]

already been replaced.

[firefighter3931]

I removed about 5 plugs and all of them were oily and smelled like oil. The passenger side however was more oily.

It sounds like you have bad valveguide seals and oil is making it's way into the combustion chamber. This will hurt the air/fuel mixture and make the engine run poorly. Fouled plugs don't fire very well....



Ron

[bordin34]

That was one of my previous theories. I cleaned all the plugs once and it ran great until I shut it off, then total crap. I think I mentioned it in one of my other threads. I ordered a compression gauge and I will do a compression check then go from there. Also there is sometimes oil burned at start up and sometimes not. I think that is also why it ran much better when I bypassed the ballast.

[FLG]

Bordin. If your not busy this weekend ill come up. Dont know if you will have it by then but ill bring my compression checker, timing light and if you want pic up a double roller chain, the gaskets, and some anti-freeze and ill bring the pulley puller and we can change the chain.

[bordin34]

Thanks for the offer, but this weekend does not work out for me. Perhaps some other time.

[FLG]

Sure just shoot me a PM. Im usually free during the week too.

[bordin34]

Here are my compression test readings they seem low to me but they are pretty much even.
1-110psi       2-100psi
3-110psi       4-110psi
5-105psi       6-110psi
7-110psi       8-100psi

[mikepmcs]

Dan, that does seem low to me as well.
Unless of course the compression gauge is off....

I know that is no help but looking 130+++(ballpark, most likely more) is more in the range.
Not saying that is exactly the issue but could be a combo of things IMO

[FLG]

Engine warm or cold? I know your supposed to do it warm but hell its way to hard to fit fingers under 400 exhaust manifolds with the damn inner fender so close. If they were done cold there really not bad. You have to remember 400's were smog blocks...lower compression.

[bordin34]

I did it warm and used a screw in type but I really couldn't get it as tight as I wanted to.

[bordin34]

My newest theory is I have bad valve guide seals and the compression is low because the timing chain jumped.

[mikepmcs]

Dan

I'm just gonna throw this out there, why would the compression be bad because the timing chain jumped.  In my opinion the otto cycle is the same no matter what(expansion, cooling, compression, and combustion.)  Piston goes up and down creates the combustion or in this case the compression.....timing should have nothing to do with that part...right?
ok, I do see the thinking behind that though it just doesn't seem to me to be the answer.  If of course you are thinking that it is not making the full throw, but I'm still having a hard time gettin my head around that one.
were/are you blowing smoke as well??  what are the plugs doing now...still looking crappy??

v/r
Mike

[bordin34]

I was occasionally blowing smoke at startup but recently it has gotten worse. The plugs were misted with oil when I pulled them to do the compression check. I am going to clean and re-install them and if it runs better I will replace the valve guide.
My thoughts behind the timing chain jump and the compression is that it starts sucking air in later and compresses later with less stroke.
I also have a bottle of marvel mystery oil, a couple ounces of atf, and dry gas in the tank. I am running 87 octane regular.

[FLG]

mike if the timing chain jumped a tooth it the valves might start to open too early in the cycle and the piston never gets to TDC. I assume this will effect compression some. But when i did my comp check with the loose chain they were around 110-120 possibly one 105 cant remember. Never checked it after i replaced the chain but you need to remember this engine was NOT built as a high compression unit. I ran the numbers by ron and he said they were fine. Couple the fact that its low comression, and the engine is tired...those numbers seem about right maybe the 100psi cylinders are a tad on the low side. Recheck those cylinders and put 1-2 tablespoons full of oil in there. If the compression goes up then its the rings, stays the same then its the valves. Also remember do to the test with your foot on the gas pedal at WOT, choke fully open. I just pulled the line to my fuel pump off so i dont have gas filling up the cylinders.

[bordin34]

I did it under Wot it is really going to be fun to re-install all the plugs, get it to run for 5 miutes, take then out without getting burnt by the headers, manage to get oil into the cylinders through a little hole when I can barely touch the hole with my fingers, get the comp gauge back onto the threads, clean the plugs, then reinstall them. I am really thinking of getting rid of the headers.

[mikepmcs]

Frank, thanks for the expla, makes sense and that's what I was kinda thinking.

Dan, turkey baster with some rubber line attached.

[FLG]

Do it cold. Wont make a big difference. You just want to know if its valves or rings.  Also have you tried this with exhaust manifolds on? with it HOT you cant come close to a plug, cold and its just a pain in the a$$. I did mine cold.

[bordin34]

I will do it cold then. I got my hand stuck between the heads,headers, and studs three times while doing the compression test. When I e-mailed the previous owner when this initially happened around December this is what he said,
"The engine was indeed rebuilt by Eckberg Motor Rebuilding of Wyoming Michigan for a total of $4095.47, invoice # 0369 on 1/5/04. I would be more than happy to fax you a copy of the invoice. In the 3 years after the rebuild, I never needed to adjust the carb or timing. Oil changes when due and I changed the plugs once, was all the maint needed."
I think I may give a call to Eckberg Motor Rebuilding.

[bordin34]

For the oil, is WD-40 Ok or should I use motor oil.

[FLG]

Use motor oil. I dont thin WD40 will have the proper viscosity to hold compression better if the rings are a little worn

[bordin34]

I used 5w-30 motor oil with the engine cold and this is what I got.
1-118psi        2-118psi
3-130psi        4-110psi
5-125psi        6-114psi
7-130psi        8-120psi

[bordin34]

I was just putting the plug wires back on and fixing one when I read the box. It said they have between 3000-7000ohm per foot resistance, I am ordering new wires soon.

[FLG]

So your rings are a little worn. Common for an older engine, but nothing thats going to make the car run like crap. I went with taylor wires, and have had no problems...wires look good and work great.

[bordin34]

Ok, I think I will buy a timing chain, valve guide seals, and wires and see if that helps any. What size seals do I need?

[71ChallengeHer]

Dan, I run 10w-40 in the Chally 

[FLG]

Should be able to pick up the set for intake and exhaust at rockauto.com

Get a timing chain from summit, advance the cam 3-4 degrees (forgot what i did mine, but it was either 3 or 4)

Jackie,

The oil was to put into the cylinders to see if it was the rings or the valves that werent sealing up good.

[bordin34]

Thanks, I found everything I need my only question as of right now is when it says set does that mean enough for one head or both?

[FLG]

Buy the fel-pro int and exh set. Comes with 16 seals, 8 intake and 8 exhaust....4 intake seals, and 4 exhaust seals per head. Your also going to need the attachment to screw into the spark plug hole and an air compressor. Fill the cylinder up with compressed air so you dont drop the valve into the cylinder.

[bordin34]

Thanks, I will probably order everything tomorrow.

[FLG]

OK.

Dont forget the gasket set for when your doing the timing chain. Summit sells a complete set so you wont need anything else. Also if your upper and lower rad hoses need replacement nows the time to do it. And of course any belts that need replacement.

[71ChallengeHer]

Thanks Frank, I wondered what Dan was doing.

[mikepmcs]

Your also going to need the attachment to screw into the spark plug hole and an air compressor. Fill the cylinder up with compressed air so you dont drop the valve into the cylinder.

Dan
you can also use rope to fill up the cylinder to keep the valve from dropping.  Cheaper than a compressor and attachment if coinage is an issue.

[tatrick2me]

What you have is a tired worn out engine. Why don't you go ahead and rebuild it and get it over with? It just don't cost that much to do a basic rebuild to a good engine.

[bordin34]

Right now I am low on funds and would like to get this engine running decent until I can afford to rebuild and engine. If I do rebuild an engine though, it would be a 383.

[bordin34]

My newest questions are would bad valve guide seals cause backfiring and poor performance. Would my compression test rule out burnt or bent valves?

[bordin34]

Here is an update, I cleaned and reinstalled the spark plugs. The car idles nice and smooth and drives great. I think that since there was no oil on them they will run good until fouled by the bad guide seals. I will be ordering seals, brakes, and wires tonight.

[bordin34]

All the parts came and I started replacing the seals today. So far I have taken the rocker arm shaft off the driver side and am waiting for the rtv to seal for my air adapter.

[bordin34]

I just looked at the Master Cylinder I bought and it doesn't have a piston retainer screw. Will it be OK to take it off my old one and put it in this one.

[bordin34]

Another thing I am concerned about is that the pushrods have some surface rust on them in places. Will this pose a problem?

[firefighter3931]

Thanks, I found everything I need my only question as of right now is when it says set does that mean enough for one head or both?

Both heads...all 16 valves. 

Another thing I am concerned about is that the pushrods have some surface rust on them in places. Will this pose a problem?

No problem....just use some emory cloth to clean them up and re-install.

I just looked at the Master Cylinder I bought and it doesn't have a piston retainer screw. Will it be OK to take it off my old one and put it in this one.

Are you asking about the bushing that holds the pushrod into the back of the master ? If so....you definately need one of those ! 

Here is an update, I cleaned and reinstalled the spark plugs. The car idles nice and smooth and drives great. I think that since there was no oil on them they will run good until fouled by the bad guide seals. I will be ordering seals, brakes, and wires tonight.

Oil fouled plugs don't fire very well. Get those valve seals replaced and install some good ignition wires and it will run and idle much better. 


Keep up the good work Dan ! 




Ron

[FLG]

Hey Dan keep us updated.

My goal over the winter is about the same. Finally do the front end, new K-frame, and freshen up the 400 a bit.


If you need anything just ask

[bordin34]

I am talking about the phillips head screw on the smaller side of the MC, actually in the reservoir.
I have one side ready to go and will do it all on Thursday. Right now I have absolutely no money at all, so I can't get plug wires and am stuck with my 3000+ohm per foot ones on there now.
When I started it up to back it into the garage yesterday, it was like a mosquito fogger.
Frank, what rear, and gears do you have? We have got to race each other at E-town sometime.

[FLG]

Think 3.23 but possibly high 2's. Im completely down for a drag bro, BEFORE this winter officially starts. Lets get em down there.

Im going to E-Town one of these upcomming weeks and flogging the crap out of her 

[bordin34]

It's gotta be After the winter for me because I don't get my license until then.

[FLG]

Well when do ya get it?

[bordin34]

Feb. 10 and I plan to drive the Charger on that day regardless of weather.

[FLG]

Cool. I hope to have mine back together by than. Figure ill be taking it apart some in the next month to freshen it up (and finally get that damn engine bay painted black) 

[bordin34]

Today I tried doing one exhaust seal and failed. I couldn't get the keeper off. I could get them all loose and flopping around so they were in a "V" but couldn't remove them. Any special tips I tried using a magnetic thing and my fingers.

[bordin34]

So far I have replaced the 1 and 8 seals. The exhaust ones were probably fine but the intake seals were barely even snug on the stem. I have also found that the intake keepers are 1000 times easier to install and remove.

[bordin34]

I finished them all and they will definitely seal better. Most of the intake ones weren't even snug on the stem these new ones fit much better. I will button everything up on Tuesday and hopefully take it for a test drive. Also, when removing the rocker shaft I noticed one of the bolts was an inch longer then the others and different. It seems that the shop just took a random grade 5 bolt and threw it in there. I am going to go to the hardware store and buy a correct length grade 5 or replace every one with a correct length grade 8.

[bordin34]

The engine is all buttoned up and I will test it out tomorrow. I also made a heat shield for one spark plug boot that was being melted on the headers.

[bordin34]

I started it up today and it smoked a little bit at start-up. I think most of it was from all the oil dripping onto the headers. Now I just need to get my timing set right, I believe I have it a little bit too advanced.

[FLG]

Awesome!

My 400 seems to like it almost at 14* initial and i also run the vac advance to full manifold vacuum.

[bordin34]

I took it out for about a 15 mile test drive today. The car ran great barely stumbled and made decent power. On the highway it was fine but the rpms are a little high. I drove about 8 miles on the highway at 50-65mph at 3000rpm and it ran great. With about one mile left, I had to stop at a light and the car started surging, luckily it didn't stall. Then about 1/2 mile up the road going around a turn the car died. Totally dead wouldn't even crank. Earlier in the ride I went over a bump and the car died at 40mph and restarted itself, so I thought nothing of it. I think my battery cables were too loose and in turn it wasn't charging, or the bump totally screwed something up. With jumpers we were able to restart it and drive it home. After the restart it ran great and didn't even stumble when I moved from a stop. Any suggestions or comments are welcome.
Dan

[FLG]

Take out your multimeter and make sure its charging. Also make sure all the connections on the alt are good.

Sounds like the alt isnt charging/or the battery cables are not connected properly. Since it just died over a bump...its hard to tell, maybe check your connections at the coil or at your resistor. Did you have lights when it died the second time?

Also make sure the connection to the starter relay is good. Mine sometimes is a little tricky and needs a bump, i just tigntend it all down and its been good.

[bordin34]

I have no multimeter but the ammeter was right in the middle the entire time. My positive battery cable was slightly loose so I could easily disconnect and connect it. My connections at the coil and resistor seem fine. I didn't use the lights at all. My other theory is that my ammeter connections are loose. Also when I was under WOT on the highway the tach was jumping like crazy almost full sweeps and made no power, but under even a little less than WOT and it was fine.

[FLG]

Might want to check the carb, think it might be time for a rebuild or a new one all together. Could be connections at the ampmeter, had a similar problem last year with no power.

[bordin34]

A family friend said he would rebuild the carb for me so I am going to do that. Also, I was thinking about when it stalled the first time, I still had power steering so I don't think it stalled I think it popped into neutral because that little rod is below my headers. The second time it stalled was halfway around a turn and when the steering tightened up it was scary.

[bordin34]

New theory  the tach was jumping around under WOT because the battery did not have enough power to make a spark at a higher rpm so it only got enough spark for a lower rpm.

[1969chargerrtse]

Your also going to need the attachment to screw into the spark plug hole and an air compressor. Fill the cylinder up with compressed air so you dont drop the valve into the cylinder.

Dan
you can also use rope to fill up the cylinder to keep the valve from dropping.  Cheaper than a compressor and attachment if coinage is an issue.

What a cool idea.   

[bordin34]

I have found that the green wire on the top back part of the alternator was cracked and not connected. I temporarily fixed it and need to get a new blade type terminal. Hopefully that will fix my charging problem.
Now onto my not shifting into 3rd gear...

[FLG]

Improperly adjusted throttle pressure linkage? Theres a DIY on the forum, should be under "Adjusting kickdown linkage" john knuckel? i believe it was who explained it.

[bordin34]

The kick down is adjusted correctly I have checked it multiple times. Over at C-C.com one guy suggested that it could be the front drum going.

[bordin34]

I just checked the charging problem today and I am amazed, my power windows have never gone up so fast, it's working about 3/4 of the way to the right. I can get it in the middle if I push the brakes, highbeams, and try to roll up the windows too far.