talking about some electrical upgrades, My opinions.

[Nacho-RT74]

I'm making this due some questions made by CB and some other ppl. My main concern is make a cheap and reliable upgrade, but with guarantees of a perfect and balanced system.

CHARGING SYSTEM

First lets take the MAIN check, manteniance and upgrade I think must be made on any Mopar:
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,33574.0.html
being I trust more on ammeter for battery charge/discharge status than on a voltimeter ( not saying Voltimeter doesn't work but never get rid off the ammeter ). AS FAR YOU GET A PERFECT WORKING ALT being able to feed the car load, you'll NEVER GET PROBLEMS of discharge on batt. JUST NEED TO TAKE CARE of save the weaks points, like the bulkhead terminals and everything clean and tight ( amm studs, alt stud, starter relay stud )

This is the point I preffer to answer any specific question floating on since I think already explained everything on thread

then the electronic upgrade against keep the mechanical ( if you car still is mechanical ).  We have this:
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,22649.0.html
( please read completelly )
notes about this:
-a single field alt can it be converted in to double field alt. Just need a drill, screw, brush, brush isolator a washer isolator.
-If you have in hands/around a double field alt, go for it. No matter conditions allways can it be rebuilt FOR CHEAP and in fact UPGRADED in less than $50 ( http://www.alternatorparts.com/chrysler_alt_repair_upgrade_kits.htm )
-If you will upgrade the single field alt to a more output kit and will CONVERT IT to a double field alt TAKE IN MIND will need to order the extra brush, isolator and related, separated from the kit, since wouldn't be included on rebuilt/upgrade kit
-You can keep also a single field alt and then upgrade the old mechanical regulator for one with stock mechanical regulator look but electronic internals.

Then we have another upgrades like:

ELECTRONIC IGNITION MSD against Mopar ( I don't know about other brands sorry )

-Module...
This is the part I don't think for a street car is a demand for a MSD. we are talking about $200 vs $50-60 price rate getting allmost same performance. Has been discused at least on moparts board about final results between both and only on race has beeing got somekind of diff but allmost unnapreciable. For the cost I wouldn't go for an MSD, beside the cool factor, and maybe emission control systems, where probably on that moment MSD can give you better results.

we have some opinions about that here: http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=4648051&an=0&page=1&gonew=1#UNREAD an I know there are couple of threads more with in fact comparision tables, and shows the price diff doesn worth the final results. Is not my words or experience, just another ppl experience

-Distribuitor...
This is maybe the point I would be agree about get an MSD distributor instead a Mopar One. After get in hands an MSD unit, I REALLY DID LIKE the quality and precicsion of the MSD system against the stock one. I think the price diff worths really the effort here if you have the money.

( even in that way I'm still gettin a Mopar unit by myself LOL, BUT, YOU KNOW, I'M ALLMOST A PURIST )

-Coil...
This is the point where a MP or MSD are the same so, all depends the decal you want to show LOL

ENGINE WIRING HARNESS

This is a section where you need to define FIRST what you will use or fit on your car. Since there is sellers able to built custom harnesses, then fisrt decide what you will  use and explain to seller, HOWEVER:

-Dunno if parallel wires will be on options to make the custom harness, but allways you can make it by yourself... COME ON, IS JUST TWO HEAVY WIRES, A GROMMET, some terminals, a fuse link and thats all!!!

-If you decide to make by yourself all the harness THATS A PIECE OF CAKE TOO!!!. The Mopar electronic ignition conversion kit already carries the harness required and just need ONE power source point that would it be spliced from ballast blue wire... rest is just tape it together with the rest. If you decide to get the MSD dist instead the complete MOPAR ELECTRONIC IGNITION kit, then you can get separatelly the Mopar ignition harness too. Just will need to match the distribuitor plug with the harness ( or backwards ).

-70s electronic regulator upgrade just requires ONE extra wire with terminal and plug, and the propper regulator plug and pigtail... thats all

ANOTHER NOTES

If you go with electroninc ignition GO INMEDIATLY with electronic regulator. Ignition modules ( everyone ) REQUIRES a GOOD AVERAGE power source. Mechanicals regulators work with relays and they are too slow to keep the perfect average power and keep safe and perfect working the system. Electronic regulator is transistorized, and they are QUICK RESPONSE devices.

[CB]

thanks Nacho for resuming all the details we talked about.
I will read the threat again tomorrow and add more thoughts. (Been working for 18 hours straight so I need some sleep )
Thanks for making the threat 
CB

[CB]

I am slowly getting ready to order the parts to do the upgrade from points to electronic ignition.
Worked overtime to finance this little project.

So besides the parallel wires what are all the parts you suggest to purchase to have a solid, affordable and reliable system?

Distributor from MSD ($295.10)
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=MSD%2D8545&N=700+4294925082+4294908110+4294908099+4294840053+115&autoview=sku

or Mopar Performance ($161.95)?

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=DCC%2D3690431&N=700+4294925082+4294908110+4294908099+4294840053+4294925143+4294881256+400172+115&autoview=sku

or the kit like this ($237.95):

http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/mo361383400k.html


ECU ($64.95)? Is it the option for a MSD module? ($221.95) 
http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/chromeecu.html
http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/msd6al1.html


coil? ($49.95)
http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/mopblascoilc.html

voltage regulator? ($24.95)
http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/1969andolder.html

alternator: 
rebuild kit v double field ALT?
What output I should consider?

Engine harnesses with electronic ignition  ($105.00)
http://evanswiring.tripod.com/id3.html

Thanks Nacho for helping out!
CB

[Nacho-RT74]

engine harnes with ECU module ( read the bolds setup ):
68/69 B Body (small or big block)
  points or electronic ignition
  also available with '70 style
  alternator and regulator

Engine harness with MSD ignition, would require the same you already have.

Ignition:
More reliabilty is of course get the MOPAR kit, definitelly!!!, but a better upgrade is the Mopar ignition Module ( Orange or Chrome ) with MSD distributor. If thats the case need to match plugs. If you choose MSD dist, I would go with the vacuum one ( Ready to Run ) for street use.

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=MSD-8386&N=700+400122+4294881256+4294908110+4294840135+115&autoview=sku

But Mopar dist against MSD dist is a little bit more double price difference, ( compairing only dist prices ).

Nothing wrong with the non vacuum model,
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=MSD%2D8545&N=700+4294925082+4294908110+4294908099+4294840053+115&autoview=sku
in fact is the one my buddy got here, but I mean more for stock response with the vacuum one and better emissions response. Experts about that should chime in better than me on this.

If you get the kit, will get extra harness that you won't need if you get the engine harness.

Charging:
double field alt, requires this regulator:


The one you posted is the same you already have. Mechanical.

repeat this notes:
-If you decide to go with double field alt ( square back alt ), need the regulator posted on pic above.

-If you decide to modify the single field alt ( round back alt )  you already have, what can be done getting the extra brush isolator, brush itself, screw and isolator washer and drilling a hole on back of alternator, then also will need the electronic regulator on pic.

-If you decide to keep your actual single field alt, then you need to use the old kind regulator, BUT since you are intruducing into electronic ignition, I would go with same unit but electronic internals unit. something like this:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mopar-Correct-Restoration-Appearance-Voltage-Regulator_W0QQitemZ180286323472QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item180286323472&_trkparms=72%3A727|39%3A1|65%3A12|240%3A1318&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245

(note seller states not intended to use with more 65 amps alternators, I posted just like an example )


Also the engine harness setup will change to
68/69 B Body (small or big block)
  points or electronic ignition
  also available with '70 style
  alternator and regulator

-To upgrade the alt. If you'll get rid off the A/C you can go with 75 amps kit. If you'll keep the A/C I would go with the higher one, 105 amps. In both cases will need the parallel wires up to ammeter and then to starter relay stud. I don't see any REAL reason to get rid off the A/C if you won't race, but is your choice.

-For upgrade kit, that would mean you'll keep your existant alternator, single field so keep in mind what decision you choose, if convert your existant single field on to double field, will need get then an extra brush, isolator, screw and isolator washer. The 90º degrees one. If you'll keep teh single field on teh way it is, that would mean just need the upgrade kit, taking in mind the notes about what regulator and engine harness need.

[Nacho-RT74]

editing some of the alternator info:

DOES LOOK the upgrade kits already have the stuff to fit double field brushes and isolators on to round backs alts, so apparently just will need to get the propper kit ( no matter how much amperes you choose ) and no need to worry about get the extra isolator out of the upgrade/rebuilt kit ( attachment ).

will need to ask first though to be sure.

and read:
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php?topic=48513.new#new

[Nacho-RT74]

so after all this new research I have made ( and too much blah blah, sorry ), about charging system you can go with:

- alternator REBUILT AND UPGRADE KIT ( 80 OR 105 AMPERES ) http://store.alternatorparts.com/daimlerchrysler.aspx

         confirming does have the extra isolator on kit to convert your one on this way http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,48513.0.html ...

        OR get a newer alt already done and upgraded http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-CHROME-MOPAR-DODGE-PLYMOUTH-CHRYSLER-ALTERNATOR_W0QQitemZ370085444571QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item370085444571&_trkparms=72%3A727|39%3A1|65%3A12|240%3A1318&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245 ( this is an example, there are several dealers with those and similar available, Summit is one of them, Mancini too... POWERMASTER is the brand they sell )

        All depends if you want to save money and you consider yourself able to make the upgrade and conversion.



- engine harness with this setup 68/69 B Body[u/] (small or big block) points or electronic ignition also available with '70 style alternator and regulator

-electronic regulator like this http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Dodge-Challenger-Cuda-Etc-72-Up-Voltage-Regulator-Mopar_W0QQitemZ230289577148QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item230289577148&_trkparms=72%3A727|39%3A1|65%3A12|240%3A1318&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245


ON ANY DECISION, extra charging wires ( parallel ) is mandatory... bypassing ammeter or not, thats your decision. You can run with ammeter for some time, and if you don't get comfortable, allways will be able to bypass on any time

[CB]

wow  lots of info here.
you sure took your time to write it down and search for those links.

mucho apreció, bro! 

I am not looking for a super upgrade MSD ignition so I lean towards the ignition kit:
http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/mo361383400k.html
this would include the Vacuum Advanced Electronic Distributor, chrome ECU, ballast resistor and wiring harness.

I'd add the electronic regulator for double field alt and the engine harness, like you mentioned.

About the alternator I am trying to figure out if I can perform the rebuild or if I should go with a new double field alt. Not sure yet.

coil: MOPAR - Blaster Coil (Chrome)

When installing I should go with the parallel wiring we talked about, right?

budget needed:
kit $237.95
electronic regulator $24.95
engine harness $105.00
alt rebuild kit / new alt    $49.95 / $163.95
coil $49.90

Did I leave something out?

Thanks
Christian

[Rolling_Thunder]

downside of the MSD distributor is it sometimes does not clear the valve cover set ups...     depending on the covers used...   

[CB]

downside of the MSD distributor is it sometimes does not clear the valve cover set ups...     depending on the covers used...   

mmm  interesting
CB

[Nacho-RT74]

the non vacuum one fits for sure at least with stock and MP wrincled black ones... dunno the vacuum one.

[CB]

nacho, did you check out the '440source' in CA?
they look very reasonable 'bout pricing
so reasonable I could order everything 1 one big order 

starter motor/shield:
Part No: 123-1000 - Lightweight Starter  $89.95 + $14.95
http://www.440source.com/starters.htm

pro-billet distributor:
Part No: 117-1002 - Street  Distributor - "RB" -  Ready to Run  - $74.95
http://www.440source.com/distributors.htm

alternators:
Part No: 118-1003 - Alternator - Dual Field / Single Pulley - Price: $49.95
Part No: 120-1003 - Voltage Regulator - Dual Field Electronic - NEW . Price: $19.95
http://www.440source.com/altparts.htm

pulleys to convert my Charger from A/C to non A/C :

Part No: 132-1000 - Single Groove Crank Pulley - New Reproduction. $34.95
Part No: 101-1076 - Bolt kit - Lower pulley to damper - Qty: 6 - Price: $7.95
Part No: 138-1001 - V-Belt - Alternator & Water Pump drive - Non A/C -  NEW - Price: $14.95
http://www.440source.com/pulleyscrank.htm

Part No: 132-1002 - Water Pump Pulley - Non A/C - New Reproduction $34.95
http://www.440source.com/pulleyswaterpump.htm

[Nacho-RT74]

as I told on by MSN, and posting to everyone... then wouldn't need the new harness, no need for ign module or electronic regulator... need to know if alt is ONE WIRE kind... if is, harness doesn't need any of the wires for regulator system ( mech or elect )

and dist works the same than you points one conecting directly to coil and the extra wire to positive source could it came from alt stud.