Starting my 440 build and have questions...

[Leonidas Rex]

I am starting to put together a plan for my 440 build. I was originally intent on going stock, at least looking like stock on the outside but have changed my mind. I thought about rebuilding the block to look stock outside but replace the cam and lifters with a roller cam and lifter setup. I dont think it is possible to keep the stock intake, carb and torque convertor and see any increase in power.

I have been hooked on the idea of going with Edelbrock RPM 84CC Heads with the Edelbrock Big Block Chrysler EFI setup. What I do not know from here is how to choose a camshaft, rockers, roller lifters, pushrods and torque convertor for this setup. 

If you could give me any suggestions on these routes, I would greatly appreciate it. I am staring to set budgets but need to be sure I am looking at the right setup.

Thanks!

[70kracken]

ditch those junk edelbrock heads, get some good 906's, do a lil port job put the factory manifold back on and you'll have plenty of power.  put what ever kind of carb you want on it and cover it up with a factory air cleaner.  you'll look factory and she'll run good.  if you go with the aluminum heads, be sure to get head studs and ditch the bolts.  as for the roller cam, i'm sure you'll want a higher than factory lift, in that case, it wont do any good if it can't breathe.  with that said, roller cam=different intake and carb.  you can run that set up with out wasting ur money on edelbrock heads.  the 906's breathe really well with a port job.  porting is very cheap to do if you do it your self.  you'll only spend money on a die grinder, a carbide and polish pads with a mandrel.  if you have a shop port them, you'll see about 8-10 hours on a good job.  80-120 bucks and hour and it gets pricey.  roller cams are very expensive for mopar i priced a 535 lift roller cam and lifter package at 1100 bucks.  a local machine shop will have a cam shaft catalog, which will show you power bands and also proper carb size, stall speed and gear ratio to fully use the new power.  you can also find the gear ratio you currently have and with the same information, build the motor around that.  i wouldn't do anything to the low end, as far as im concerned the 440 low end is bullet proof.  very strong webbing and factory flat tops are certainly strong enough to run 11 to 1 compression.  any higher than that and you'll have to run expensive high octane gas.    heads, heads heads!  she has to breathe to run strong.  i forget the biggest size valves you can put in a 906, but they are plenty big and you can definately see positive results on a flow bench.  big valves, swirl finished for atomizing and a proper port job can give you 75 horse or better.

[firefighter3931]

Well, my opinion differs slightly from Krakens so take it with a grain of salt 

The RPM heads are fantastic, inmho. You get a nice closed chamber casting that flows as well as a max ported iron head that won't crack and it takes 50 lbs off the nose of the car. All the stock parts will bolt up but header selection can be tricky due to the angled plug heads. Many members here have used them with excellent results.

By the time you rebuild an open chamber head properly and port it you still have a 40 year old casting that will eventually crack and costs the same as a set of e-heads. You won't have the more efficient closed chamber and it will also detonate with anything more than 9:1 compression.




Ron