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need help with disc brake conversion

Started by rudeboy, October 26, 2005, 08:31:59 PM

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rudeboy

Hey guys,
haven't been around here for a while, been pretty busy at work and home. This morning a friend of mine called and said that he has a complete disc brake set-up from a 79 LeBaron and that it would work on my 68 charger. Does anyone know for sure whether this would work or am i just asking for trouble by just attempting to install this thing?

Thanks in advance

Sonny

71charger_fan

It'll work. Spindles are slightly taller than stock. Someone, eventually, will most likely post a link to a Mopar Action site warning against using the taller spindles. I have them on my car. Been on there for over 13 years. Zero problems. You can put the spindles on either side and carry the calipers to the front or to the rear. Whichever works best for your application.

Check out www.bigblockdart.com for information on these spindles.

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,3668.0.html

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,1882.0.html

bull

Yea, they'll work. As 71 Charger fan says there are some people who believe the taller spindles will cause problems with your suspension, steering, etc., but I tend to doubt there's a problem. The Mopar Action article warns against it but I think they do that for liability reasons more than anything, the same way they warn against swapping the calipers side to side to avoid sway bar interferance.

I almost went with the taller spindles on my Charger but then I was seduced by the larger rotor size of the Mopar Action swap. IIRC the one you're talking about is about an inch smaller in diameter than the late '70s B-body rotors. To be exact I believe the Le Baron rotors are 10.87" and the late '70s B-body rotors (such as Charger, Fury, Magnum, etc.) are 11.75" so it's not even an inch. If you're not worried about the spindle height difference I'd go with the Le Baron setup because they are very easy to find and dirt cheap. Plus all the new or rebuilt stuff you'll want to buy to finish it is easy and cheap to buy.

Personally, the only thing I'd use of your buddy's though are the spindles and caliper brackets because I don't think it's worth it to install used rotors, calipers, pads, bearings and seals. Let me back up. If the rotors can be turned within tolerance they'll be ok but be sure to check those bearings out real good if you plan on reusing those. They will be matched with the races in the rotor hubs so if you use the old rotors and the bearings are bad you'll have to replace the races too. I'd for sure get new or rebuilt loaded calipers and of course seals.

Don't forget you'll need to get new rear wheel cylinders with cup expanders or a residual pressure valve in-line to the rear brakes because discs and drums operate off different pressures.

Here's what I used:

2 Spindles: 1974 Dart (used) $90
2 Caliper adapters: 1977 Fury pin style (used) $36 incl. shipping
2 Rotors: 1977 Fury (new) $91.21
2 Calipers: 1973 Challenger (rebuilt) Loaded with new semi-metallic pads, pin fastener set, etc. $129.98
1 Disc Brake Master cylinder: 1973-1980s Dodge truck (rebuilt) $28.76
2 Hoses: 1980 St. Regis (new) $30.98
2 Oil seals: 1977 Fury (new) $3.49
2 Outer wheel bearings: 1977 Fury (new) $8.50
2 Inner wheel bearings: 1977 Fury (new) $11.18
1 Wilwood Proportioning Valve: $42.50
1 Wilwood Residual Pressure Valve: $16.46