lost my oil pressure

[69 rt]

Hi all,

Was driving to a cruise the other evening in my 69rt 440, all was going well showing around 30 psi oil pressure and stopped for gas. When I fired it up I noticed that the oil pressure did not rise stayed at zero, so I shut it off and checked the oil, it was full and there was no leaks. I thought it might be the gauge so I pulled out and within a 1/4 mile it started tapping so I pulled in a parking lot and shut it off and then called a roll back to get it home. I could use some suggestions as where to start looking. The engine was a total rebuild around 1200 miles ago with a new oil pump.

Thanks

[oldschool]

pull the oil pump drive gear. see if the end that goes into the oil pump is broke or striped. its happend to me a couple of times...........

[69 rt]

Ok Thanks, I will look at that first.

[ACUDANUT]

 let me know how that worked.  Was it a mechanical or electrical guage  ?

[General_01]

let me know how that worked. Was it a mechanical or electrical guage ?

Why would that matter? Whatever one it was it was working because he already confirmed it was correct. He has zero oil pressure, therefore the drive gear for the pump is gone, or maybe a plug came out in the rear or in the front under the timing cover.

[RD]

30 psi is low in my book (dependent upon the type of oil you are running).  dont think a 3/8" plug would have come out.. those are in there if  you know what i mean.

check your oil pan for any metal shavings or metallic looking material, if there is describe it or take a picture.  we will go from there.

[General_01]

Would he lose oil presure like that if he spun a cam bearing?

I agree about the plugs, just someplace else to check. If I am not mistaken, these are screwed in, at least from what I have seen. Unless they are just plugs and people have threaded the holes during a rebuild?

[ACUDANUT]

  Never hurts to check gauges.  I have had more than my share of gauges working one minute and quit the next. Usually it was because I used a cheap aftermarket gauge made in China.

[69 rt]

It is a standard electric gauge, but I don't think that is the problem as it did start making a tapping noise shortly after I started the engine. I also did not like only 30 psi oil pressure but that is all I ever had from when it was re-built. After break in all I use is Mobil 1 synthetic oil. Do you all agree with that type of oil?

[69 rt]

Also what is the best procedure for taking out the gear drive for inspection?

[firefighter3931]

After break in all I use is Mobil 1 synthetic oil. Do you all agree with that type of oil?

Wait until the third oil change before going to synthetic....this will give the rings ample opportunity to seat up. Use an EP additive like EOS with each oil change to protect the cam and lifters.

1st oil change right after breakin/initial fireup...2nd oil change @ 500 miles then normal intervals, afterwards. 

Also what is the best procedure for taking out the gear drive for inspection?

You will need to pull the distributor to acess the oil pump drive gear/shaft. Inspect the tip as mentioned above but also look at the pressed gear and make sure it's still tight. MP (and others) sell a hardened tipped OP drive that is also pinned to the shaft. 



Ron

[69 rt]

That is good info thank you!

[General_01]

Also, remember to pull the distributor cap and mark where the rotor is at so you can put it back in correctly. This will save you from trying to find TDC again to put it in.

[69 rt]

Well guys I went out this morning and pulled the oil pump gear and it looks good, I then drained the oil and removed the filter and cut it apart for inspection and everything was clean no metal, I guess the next item will be changing the pump, do you agree or should I check something else first?

[69 rt]

I took the pump off the engine and the inner and outer rotors were pretty scarred so I ordered a new HP pump. I hope that is my problem. The scarring more than likely occurred when one of the lobes on my cam shaft along with the push rod from my fuel pump was wiped out awhile back

[ACUDANUT]

  You did a total rebuild and reused the old oil pump ?

[RD]

i think he was just saying that he put in a new camshaft and fuel pump rod, not a total rebuild.  i would not have thought about replacing the oil pump at that time either.

[69 rt]

Sorry for the confusion, I had the engine rebuilt when I was restoring the car, The builder was supposed to replace the oil pump during the rebuild. After driving the car approx 700 miles it quit and upon inspection found the fuel push rod had been worn down approx 3/8 th inch and the lobe on the cam shaft was worn so at that time I replaced the cam shaft and push rod, thinking it was a defective cam shaft. Now this problem occurred and I assume the oil pump scarring came about when the fuel push rod wore down. What do you think?

[RD]

Sorry for the confusion, I had the engine rebuilt when I was restoring the car, The builder was supposed to replace the oil pump during the rebuild. After driving the car approx 700 miles it quit and upon inspection found the fuel push rod had been worn down approx 3/8 th inch and the lobe on the cam shaft was worn so at that time I replaced the cam shaft and push rod, thinking it was a defective cam shaft. Now this problem occurred and I assume the oil pump scarring came about when the fuel push rod wore down. What do you think?

i stand corrected.  if you had a total rebuild and the oil pump was not replaced.... well that is a big no-no.  knowing that and the fact that you only had 30psi tells me your oil pump has crapped out on you.  luckily you have not found any metallic flakes or fragments, that is a plus.  Replace the oil pump, add new oil, run it, check your oil pressure, change the oil again, and see how it goes.  i am interested to see what your psi rating is after the new oil pump.

[firefighter3931]

When internal engine parts wear down that fast (fuel pump rod, cam etc...) the engine gets filled with those tiny metal particles. They usually make their way into the rod & main bearings as well as the oil pump and create all kinds of damage...as you've seen allready. 

This type of failure requires a complete rebuild (crank turned, new main/rod/cam bearings and sometimes a rebore) for the engine to be  "right". 

I would be dropping the oilpan and looking at the rod/main bearings. 



Ron

[69 rt]

Thanks Ron,

Good info, What are the odds I could have escaped with no other damage? or is it likely I will need a tear down.

[firefighter3931]

Thanks Ron,

Good info, What are the odds I could have escaped with no other damage? or is it likely I will need a tear down.

It's difficult to predict what you'll find. I've seen it go both ways.....bad oilpump but "usable" bearings. I've also seen them where both the oilpump and  bearings were wasted as well as the cylinder walls (rebore time) needed attention.

Pull the pan and inspect would be my advice. A compression test wouldn't hurt either 




Ron

[69 rt]

OK, I will pull the pan, good advise, one other question. After I replace the oil pump should I prime it prior to starting the engine and if so is there a tool available to use with a drill to prime it?

[john108]

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=DCC%2D4286800&autoview=sku

[john108]

I hit post too soon.
DCC-4286800 Oil Pump Primer, Mopar, V8 $7.88