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Installing new wheel lugs

Started by SpudRacer, August 24, 2008, 05:41:39 PM

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SpudRacer

I am in the process of restoring my 8-3/4" rear end out of my 69' R/T, and have completely blasted the axle shafts (except for the bearing and seal area), and am ready to install my new wheel lugs.   Is a hydraulic press absolutely necessary to get these installed?  It didn't seem to take too much tapping to pound out the old ones.  But the new ones won't go in all the way, even with an impact wrench on a lug nut and a stack of washers.  Is it safe to assume a hydraulic press is necessary?  If so, is it needed for installing the wheel bearings and collar as well?  Or can one use a length of steel pipe over the shaft and tap them on?

Also I just want to confirm some colors.  My restoration book states the rear housing should be 30% black and the leaves should be stainless steel in color.  Is this right?  Would Eastwoods Underhood Black be OK?  Should the third member be black like the housing, or stainless steel color?

Really appreciate the help guys/gals.

Tom
Bryson City, NC
Tom
Bryson City, NC
69' Charger R/T SE Turquoise

firefighter3931

Tom, the bearings need to be pressed on so take the studs with ya and have them done at the same time.  ;)

The housing should be black and the springs were natural (bare) from the factory. I usually paint the springs with Eastwood chassis black and the housing with POR15 black....not the stock look but very durable.



Ron
68 Charger R/T "Black Pig" Street/Strip bruiser, 70 Charger R/T 440-6bbl Cruiser. Firecore ignition  authorized dealer ; contact me with your needs

aifilaw

Odd, I've done wheel lug change outs on an 8-3/4, a 10 bolt, and a 12-bolt so far, all with a standard carpenters hammer and a C-clamp with no problems.
'72 B5 Metallic Blue Hardtop
426" Wedge - Hydraulic Roller Stealth heads

Steve P.

Pressing is by far the best way to do it as hammering them in can distort the axle flange and pulling them through with washers and spare nuts can stretch the threads.  (Not that I haven't done that)!! Just best to press them in ...


:Twocents:
Steve P.
Holiday, Florida

SpudRacer

Thanks for the tips, really appreciated.

Tom
Bryson City, NC
Tom
Bryson City, NC
69' Charger R/T SE Turquoise

375instroke

The center sections were originally bare cast iron.  Backing plates were bare steel or phosphate black, which is a chemical coating, not paint.

SpudRacer

Tom
Bryson City, NC
69' Charger R/T SE Turquoise