69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.

[cudaken]

 CHARGER_FAN, the rust you can see will not touch the patch. It is solid, it is the outer lip of the wheel well housing, bonding point was cleaned. Like I stated, this is not a full title boogie but will be a good looking street peeler.

No PIC worth posting today but body is close. Left and right fenders, hood, L&R door, left quarter and roof are done. Rear tail panel and trunk need one more coat of primer then done. Only real work is the is the right lower quarter. Broke the bite today as I was drilling out the rivets. Pick that up Wednesday and then filler.

Eric, I need a paint code.

Allen, are we hooking up this week? Like to haul the hood over and jam it. You think the primer stinks, waite till you smell paint.

                      Cuda Ken

[Rolling_Thunder]

shame shame Ken - should be wearing a mask   

[41husk]

Ken I am going over today about 2pm to put the rear brakes on and get ready to move to the shop for some exhaust tommorow, I can trailer her down there with out a hood, but if you want to come and play, the bait is still in the trap,

[41husk]

This what I found From
                                         Eric


Johncanoe@aol.comWed Oct 25 00:16:43 1995
Date: Tue, 17 Oct 1995 01:08:52 -0400
From: Johncanoe@aol.com
To: stoneji@scan.si.edu
Subject: Vin Decoder - 69

69 AMX/Javelin Number Decoder
         
VIN Number
====================================================================
Digit   Value                                    Meaning
======  =======================================  ===================
1st     A = American Motors                      Make
2nd     9 = 1969                                 Year
3rd     S = Manual Trans                         Trans
        C = Auto, Floor, Console
        M = 4 sp
4th     7 = Javelin                              Series
        3 = AMX
5th     9 = 2dr Hard Top                         Body
6th     5 = Javelin                              Group
        7 = AMX
7th     B = 232/6 1v                             Engine
        M = 290 2v
        N = 290 4v
        T = 343 4v
        X = 390 4v
8-13    100,0001 - 699,999 = Kenosha Built       Ser. Num/Plant
        700,001 - 1,000,000 = Brampton Built
       

Unit Body Number Plate - Driver's Door
================================================================
Body Code                        Model Code
==============================   ===============================
Code              Value          Code           Value
================  ============   =============  ================
000001 and Up     Milwaukee      6979-5         Javelin
R-000001 and Up   Kenosha        6979-7         Javelin SST
8000001 and up    Brampton       6939-7         AMX
                 
I do not have the numbers for the interior, they may be the same
as 68, with the addition of a code for leather.

                 
Paint Code
================================================================
First Code Is Exterior          Second Code Is Interior
============================    ================================
Code  Color                     Code   Color
====  ======================    =====  =========================
P39   Matador Red               69R1   Charcol Metalic
P62   Ascot Grey                69R3   Medium Blue Metalic
P63   Castillian Grey Metalic   69R4   Medium Green Metalic
P64   Beal St. Blue Metalic     69R5   Red
P65   Regatta Blue Metalic      69R6   Brown Metalic
P68   Alamosa Aqua Metalic      69R7   Medium Avacado Metalic
P70   Surf Green Metalic       
P71   Hunter Green Metalic
P72   Frost White
P75   Willow Green Metalic
P76   Pompeii Yellow
P77   Butternut Beige Metalic
P78   Cordobe Brown Metalic
P79   Bittersweet Orange Metalic
P80   Black Mink Metalic


[cudaken]

 Thanks Eric, your code is  P68   Alamosa Aqua Metalic. Will call Al's and see if they can make it.

                                          Cuda Ken     

[Doc74]

Nice work Ken
It gives a great idea of how my Charger will be done very soon (hope next weekend)

Hmmmmmm not really, with all due respect to what Ken is doing here, which is helping people in a big way and I'm sure he does get nice results, but it's not how we ( me and collegue) work.
And I know Ken stated somewhere in this thread that he's not really a bodyman which makes me give the thumbs up and say kudos but it's not how it should be done, altough it's an option.
Please don't take any offense Ken, I think it's marvelous that you do all this and put so much time in it posting here, we just have totally different ways of working I guess, like I preffer to use as little bondo as possible, none if I can, and remove all bad spots, even not rusted through parts and weld in new patches or makeit from scratch if need be.
Troy speaks some real nice words about you too and I'd love to get together, have a few beers and tackle something, I'm sure we can both learn some cool tricks, cause I'm sure you got a bunch learning it all by yourself. 
I look forward to seeing this baby in paint, I like those things !
If someone wants, the work on CB's charger has started, got some pics here so me or CB could maybe make a thread and I can add comment to the work.....and all of you can comment on that 
All's fine with me, don't want to push this thread aside, not at all, just could be interesting to see another job in the works.
Ken just tell me one thing, I know you ain't stupid so tell me you got a decent dust and paint mask there.I've seen too many good people get sick, very sick.

EDIT to clear up any questions about this, my way is not necessarily the better way, just different.The way I work will cost 10 times more than anything else and that's not always an option.
I know Ken knows his stuff, I would just love to see work progress from him tackling something like a full resto or a custom job, I love those.And it's something else to see.
What he's doing now is getting there with limited means and funds and he's doing a hell of a job in very little time I might add

Would I be too optimisitc if I asked if other people have pictures of their handywork ? This is not to give smarta$$ remarks but I would love to see different people tackle bodywork.

Keep it up Ken, I wonder how that blue will look, should be very nice.

[cudaken]

Doc, what I am trying to show the guys is what they can do them self and have a decent looking car. This is a street peeler and not a flip it up side down and spin it around job.

If it was a full tilt boogie, more metal would be cut out, hand made patch panels made for 1/4 panel and inner wheel housing.

Lets face it Doc. If they had the money to have someone like you or Drop Top do there cars they would not be reading this thread. Good chances not the on site either. They just have Galand make a shopping list for them and throw money at parts date codes. Hum, I have a friend like that

Bottom line, I do not restore cars, I make great looking cars at a fair prices. I could do a flip up side down and spin it around car. But I am a hot rodder and want drivers, not "I have to clean the floor pan and I wiped of the chalk mark guy".

Hee, Hee, Hee, ask 41 Husk what happen when I cleaned my Charger the last time!

                              Cuda Ken

PS, now where did I leave the English Ball and Leather Mallet?

PSS, my God, my spelling is getting better! Only word spell check said was wrong where Cuda and Mallet? Guess I might throw the rest of the decoder rings away. Old timers joke from the first site.

[Doc74]

Doc, what I am trying to show the guys is what they can do them self and have a decent looking car. This is a street peeler and not a flip it up side down and spin it around job.

If it was a full tilt boogie, more metal would be cut out, hand made patch panels made for 1/4 panel and inner wheel housing.

Lets face it Doc. If they had the money to have someone like you or Drop Top do there cars they would not be reading this thread. Good chances not the site either. They just have Galand make a shopping list for them and throw money at parts date codes. Hum, I have a friend like that

Bottom line, I do not restore cars, I make great looking cars at a fair prices. I could do a flip up side down and spin it around car. But I am a hot rodder and want drivers, not "I have to clean the floor pan and I wiped of the chalk mark guy".

Hee, Hee, Hee, ask 41 Husk what happen when I cleaned my Charger the last time!

Cuda Ken

PS, now where did I leave the English Ball and Leather Mallet?

PSS, my God, my spelling is getting better! Only word spell check said was wrong where Cuda and Mallet? Guess I might throw the rest of the decoder rings away. Old timers joke from the first site.

Ken that was a way too good point to ignore, you're right, not many can or even want to spend on a full resto and even then, how would people restore a car without a huge garage stuffed with tools.

I think except the fact that people can learn from this thread and tackle some jobs themselves, this is a sure way to get your ride back on the road.I mean how long or better yet, how short of a time are you working on this, every day this thing's improving. It'll be on the road in no time and that's awesome, I think many members here would want to see their ride on the road, not covered in parts somewhere in the back of the garage.
Except for the funds, a full resto would take a 1000 hours and more and then it's so good and so expensive, you're reluctant to drive it 

For members here who seriously want to learn body work I suggest you follow this thread closely and hopefuly others to follow.
Sure there's plenty books out there but because of that it's hard to find the right one, you can't get much more up close and personal than this and if there's any aspect of bodywork or any job for that matter that's important it's finding simple means to do a hard job.
Best example I've seen here is the rubber hose for sanding, think about it, I got a bunch of very expensive sanding blocks for stuff like that, Ken got a 1 cent rubber hose and you know what, it works just as well, yes yes I had to test it 
A solid piece of wood can be cut in the best sanding block you'll find, costs next to nothing and will still work long after you're gone.

Ken you asked to chime in a bit if i wanted which I'll gladly do but so far I think you got it all covered.Maybe people can ask more questions and I'll jump in to answer some so you don't have to spend 4 hours behind the puter after you sanded a whole car !

Only tips people need to remember for now is keep it healthy.Ventilate the area you work in, use dustmasks with filters, use paintmasks, no open thinner containers around, no open fires (obviously), well you get the idea. Bodywork is a great job, a form of art if you ask me but it can bring you to your knees very fast. Protection (no not that) costs very little but can save your butt.

Ken what have you been drinking ?? Your spelling is way too good, what happened ??  j/k

Here's pics of CB's charger from last saturday.Day one we (me and collegue) spent our time planning, measuring and cutting out the bad, fitted the quarter patches and the new front floorpan too so that's ready to weld in
Next week we'll be removing the rear valance, repair it, repair the crossmember and reinstall the valance.
Weld both trunk extensions, strengthen the trunk floor which is amazingly good to begin with and fit and weld the quarters.
It's no a rotisserie job either since we just don't have the means or space for it now but we have more material to our disposal than the average hobbyist so that helps.

http://users.pandora.be/dirk.peeters3/Project%20CB's%20Charger/

[cudaken]

I have no idea what is going on with the spelling

Doc is right, I did not address the safety issues that go along with doing bodywork. Dust mask are cheap and does help a lot. Make sure you vent the room when you are spraying no matter how cold it is out side. Get a respirator as well, I uses a 3-M that cost around $35.00. If anyone needs part numbers let me know and I will post them.

Looks like CB Charger s pretty solid by our Midwest standards. Glad to see you could stay out of the center body line. They are a real challenge to get sharp and straight.

What is the red coating you used on the floor board?

                                                  Cuda Ken

[Doc74]

I have no idea what is going on with the spelling

Doc is right, I did not address the safety issues that go along with doing bodywork. Dust mask are cheap and does help a lot. Make sure you vent the room when you are spraying no matter how cold it is out side. Get a respirator as well, I uses a 3-M that cost around $35.00. If anyone needs part numbers let me know and I will post them.

Looks like CB Charger s pretty solid my our midwest standards. Glad to see you could stay out of the center bodyline. They are a real challenge to get sharp and straight.

What is the red coating you used on the floor board?

                                  Cuda Ken

The charger's not too bad, extensions and quarters are gone as is clear, so was the floorpan for the bigger part, some issues around the rear window and probably the front.
It has a lot of bondo on it as you can see in the pics and all because of small dents so underneat it's prettu good, as it sits now, the line is dull, after sanding to clean metal it's sharp again.The front part of the rear wheel wells, connected to the rocker has issues too, I don't know how much yet, I haven't removed the bondo yet till CB says to do so or not.
I know I'll find holes underneat, question is how many and how big 
If the quarters had more rot I'd have cut them a few milimeters under the bodyline, that gives me enough space to make a smooth weld and keep the line razorsharp.But yes, this is easier 

The red coating is called rust stop and it's made by Wurth, A german company with great quality materials but not cheap, they're in the states too.
It's a sort of an etch but very aggressive, the longer it sits, the more rust it transforms in sturdy metal.
We have tougher ones, acid etches but the frame rails were really good to begin with, only surface rust so we cleaned them up nicely, even vacumed them and gave them a few good coats.
Toxic as hell but great stuff !

Agreed on the 3M masks, the ones with the little square filters up front, they're really good.
Also for the sanders, any store bought machinesander and many blocks have a circular opening to attach a vacuumcleaner tube, nuff said 

[jaak]

Hey CudaKen,
  I got a body-line question for you, I know you said that you (and I hear others say, too) You mask off the lower part of body-line, do body work, and blocking on upper part above bodyline, then you mask off the upper part to sand beneath body line. My ? is after doing that does the bodyline come to a sharp point? if so, will you need to lightly hit it with sandpaper to round it off or make it a blunt edge. I hope this is making sense to ya, after reading all your post and doing some online research, I have decided to do my own body work, just wanna get all my ducks in-a-row before I get started.
Thanks, Jason

[41husk]

                Ken this is Eric I was wondering where we are on the car and how soon it will be finished?

[cudaken]

I will start answering PM in the next day or so. Will not go into great details but got lost in my own little world. Daughter sick, I have been sick, wife, well we know she is sick. Plus I hurt my butt (tail bone) racing the HO cars I have gone off the deep end with. Oh, let not forget the computer crash and backed up septic tank, that was fun.

First set back was the glue I used on the quarter panel! It would not dry? There is a mixing tube that mixes the 2 part glue as it comes out. I was told it could be mixed with a spreader like filler. Did the panel that way, two day later it did not dry? OK, I did not get it mixed right and tried again, mixed for 5 minutes, still did not dry. Gave it one more try and same thing!

Went to South West and I was told by Kevin "after you open the pack it all must be used or it will go bad". I asked him "then why do they give you 2 mixing tubes if it is a one shot deal"? After some playful bitching at each other out he gave me a new package of the glue.

This time it worked like it should, seems there is a shelf time after opening the tube. Bought the tube was about 4 months old. Glue was try to the touch after about 2 hours. Next day it was hard as a rock and strong.

Drilled out the rivets and counter sunk the metal a little and applied Metal to Metal. This PIC is after 2 coats and worked with a DA and 40 grit paper. Make sure you wear a mask and safety glasses, this is some nasty stuff and makes a bigger mess than plastic fillers.

[cudaken]

I did not post pictures of the first coat of metal to metal, it looked real nasty! Lost 75% of the wheel arch. Took about 40 minutes with a DA, sanding block and rubber hose to make it look round again. Then I had to level the inside of the wheel well. It now looks like something and not "what the heck did you do to my car a-s hole"

Remember I keep preaching about spreading the filler in a larger area than you think you need to? This picture as well will show it. If you look at the picture. This is the first coat of filler hit with 80 grit. Not bad for only one coat.

I have some here to buy the Bike so I got to go.

Seems I have 11+ unread Pm's. I will try to answer 4 a day depending on how long it will take to answer the questions.

OH, I forgot the tooth aches, yep Allen it bugging me again. Seems I need yet another one yanked!

                                         Cuda Ken

[41husk]

Glad to see you back at it!

[mopar_madman]

Every think has been blocked one time. Not it is time to show a few more tools. First one is a Air File and there are two kinds and I have both.

In Line Air File and Vibrating Air File.

One in the PIC is a Vibrating Air File. After I used one to qoute Wil Smith from 4th of July "I got to get me one of this"! It is the sizes of a normal air file but Vibrates like a jitter bug. Give me some 320 Air file paper and I can make anything straight. Reason I like it better than a In Line is it does not leave deep scrathes that need to be filled with primer to make feel smooth. In Line does cut faster but I also tened to cut off to much filler so I rather do it slower.

  I will ad finding one is tuff, most counter people will give you funny look when you ask for one. Would need a good air supply to keep up with it. Your A/C has wheels, for get it. 3 HP with a 60 Gallon tank will work, I have a 5 HP with 80 gallon tank.

Thing in front of it is a Dolly, I forget the exact name of this one but as you can see it has a curve to it. Been 26 years sence I went to Voteck school. I used this one to help get some of the curves back where they belonged, that and the Pick Hammer I showed above.

comma dolly I think? where did you get your file from?

[41husk]

     Ken glad to see you working on my car again thought I was going to have to come get it. Thanks Eric

[andy74]

keep at it buddy,we will talk soon!Andy

[cudaken]

 Few more PIC. Used guied coat on the filler and hit with 150 grit long boy. There is a total of 4 coats of filler counting the Metal to metal.

[cudaken]

 First coat of primer, look pretty good.

[cudaken]

 It will need some icing, but as a whole looks pretty good.

Back of the car is in primer as well. Might need one more coat of primer between the tail lights. Trunk will be blocked with 400 and should be good to go.

[cudaken]

 Shoot 2 coats on the right front fender and right door. Just block with 400 and should be good to go.

                  Cuda Ken

[cudaken]

 In that one PIC of the tire, that is from the flash, not primer.

[jaak]

Ken....
  Good to here from you and see your still at it, I was sorta worried about you , you haven't posted in 2-3 weeks. well keep up the good work.

Later,
Jason

[41husk]

Ken, She looks like your ready to roll into the booth for a little color.