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rack & pinion

Started by timebombkal, August 22, 2008, 03:15:03 PM

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timebombkal

Has anyone put a rack & pinion on a stock K-member? if so , is there any photos?
thanks,timebombkal

Finn

I plan on it...should be ordering the kit within the next couple weeks. From what I understand the only thing that should require modification is the steering column.
1968 Dodge Charger 440, EFI, AirRide suspension
1970 Dodge Challenger RT/SE 383 magnum
1963 Plymouth Savoy 225 with a 3 on the tree.
2002 Dodge Ram 5.9L 360
2014 Dodge Dart 2.4L

timebombkal

who are you ordering a kit from?

tan top

 been looking into this my self ...   :yesnod:         ..                        ask over on mopars & or do a search over there .....    guys on there are not too keen on it ................. :popcrn:
Feel free to post any relevant picture you think we all might like to see in the threads below!

Charger Stuff 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,86777.0.html
Chargers in the background where you least expect them 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,97261.0.html
C500 & Daytonas & Superbirds
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,95432.0.html
Interesting pictures & Stuff 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,109484.925.html
Old Dodge dealer photos wanted
 http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,120850.0.html

Finn

Well the kit I'm looking at is on yearone.com but Ive heard that other places sell the same kit for cheaper so Ill probably try and find those.
Ill get a link for it hang on...
1968 Dodge Charger 440, EFI, AirRide suspension
1970 Dodge Challenger RT/SE 383 magnum
1963 Plymouth Savoy 225 with a 3 on the tree.
2002 Dodge Ram 5.9L 360
2014 Dodge Dart 2.4L

Finn

1968 Dodge Charger 440, EFI, AirRide suspension
1970 Dodge Challenger RT/SE 383 magnum
1963 Plymouth Savoy 225 with a 3 on the tree.
2002 Dodge Ram 5.9L 360
2014 Dodge Dart 2.4L

Finn

Hmm, it seems that the kit I was looking at (see previous link) is the same "unisteer" kit that is so hated on the moparts forum lol.
*Blast!*
Anyone know of any other kits?
1968 Dodge Charger 440, EFI, AirRide suspension
1970 Dodge Challenger RT/SE 383 magnum
1963 Plymouth Savoy 225 with a 3 on the tree.
2002 Dodge Ram 5.9L 360
2014 Dodge Dart 2.4L

Finn

Ive been doing some searching and from what Ive found it looks like no one has one working perfectly inside their car at the moment.
There's a lot of reports of headers not fitting unless they're TTI or stock manifolds so even if they worked out a mentioned problem of not mounting far enough back on the K frame Id still be out of luck with my Hooker headers...

Some more reads:

http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Board=QuestionAnswer&Number=3660611&Searchpage=2&Main=3320289&Words=unisteer&topic=&Search=true#Post3320289


http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,15814.0.html


There are some good things mentioned about a place called "Alterkations" and from what I can tell they definitely make one for A bodies but Im still trying to get more info on if they do anything for B-bodies.
1968 Dodge Charger 440, EFI, AirRide suspension
1970 Dodge Challenger RT/SE 383 magnum
1963 Plymouth Savoy 225 with a 3 on the tree.
2002 Dodge Ram 5.9L 360
2014 Dodge Dart 2.4L

Blown70

Quote from: Finn on August 22, 2008, 04:18:33 PM


There are some good things mentioned about a place called "Alterkations" and from what I can tell they definitely make one for A bodies but Im still trying to get more info on if they do anything for B-bodies.


Is that not bill Rileys stuff, he is supposed to make some good parts? or parts that work well together at least?

dkn1997

do a search for unitsteer.  a guy on here tried it and lets just say he's now trying something else.
RECHRGED

NYCMille

I am still perplexed by the reasons people want to put rack and pinion in their car. You can get fantastic performance without it and unless your trying to make your car into some crazy G-machine for road racing, in my opinion, its a waste of money.

caddman

i don't know if you could use a kit, but I have seen picks in an old mopar action issue that showed a 69 roadrunner with rack and pinion mounted on the front of the K frame.  there wouldn't be any header clearance issues that way.  looked like they just switched sides with the spindles to connect at the front.  I don't have any specs but I know i thought it looked like a heck of a plan, may even consider it on my car someday.

caddman

Blown70

Quote from: caddman on August 28, 2008, 01:37:38 PM
i don't know if you could use a kit, but I have seen picks in an old mopar action issue that showed a 69 roadrunner with rack and pinion mounted on the front of the K frame.  there wouldn't be any header clearance issues that way.  looked like they just switched sides with the spindles to connect at the front.  I don't have any specs but I know i thought it looked like a heck of a plan, may even consider it on my car someday.

caddman

Sorry, That would look completly F-ed up   :slap:  I have that on my 70 because it is a tube chasis car... but otherwise   :hah: :slap: :smilielol: :RantExplode:

caddman

Quote from: Blown70 on August 28, 2008, 02:31:44 PM


Sorry, That would look completly F-ed up   :slap:  I have that on my 70 because it is a tube chasis car... but otherwise   :hah: :slap: :smilielol: :RantExplode:

how much of it would you really be able to see?  I had a dent in my valence for 3 years before i found it.  do you walk on your hands a lot?
remember form follows function, not the other way around.  how cute it the front of your K frame anyway, lol.

caddman

Blown70

Well for me it comes down to your car do as you please.  However YES, If I saw it I would certainly be the guy to say WTF happend here.....THESE CARS DO NOT SIT THAT LOW TO THE GROUND ULESS your putting an air dam on it....

I have no problems what you want to do with your car.  Because it is YOURS..... however, expect people like ME to do this  :hah:

FUNCTION?  Really so it will function better huh?  let me know how that works out for you.

dkn1997



Quote from: NYCMille on August 22, 2008, 05:30:09 PM
I am still perplexed by the reasons people want to put rack and pinion in their car. You can get fantastic performance without it and unless your trying to make your car into some crazy G-machine for road racing, in my opinion, its a waste of money.

:iagree:

and not because I even pretend to know the first thing about cornering. But look at what Mike has done with his 68 with stock suspension architecture.  Sure, it's got upgraded parts and some add ons, but no wholesale changes from the stock design.  Look at the Green Brick valiant.  That car handled well also. 

Plus nobody seems to have bolted in a rack that works unless was an alterkation which is far from just a steering swap. 



RECHRGED

Mike DC


         
Correctly mounting a R/P setup onto the chassis really isn't that complicated.


1.  The "center link" section of the rack has to be the same length as the stock center link. 

2.  The whole rack has to be mounted at the right height (usually near the LCAs). 



That's about all there is to it. 
If nobody can do this right, then it's either a money/effort problem or an unwillingness to cut the car. 
 
 

dkn1997

Quote from: Mike DC (formerly miked) on August 29, 2008, 08:44:47 PM





......That's about all there is to it. 
If nobody can do this right, then it's either a money/effort problem or an unwillingness to cut the car. 
 
 

probably because the benefits dont' justify the efflort. not the bang for the buck of  disc brake or alternator swap.
RECHRGED

John_Kunkel

Quote from: Mike DC (formerly miked) on August 29, 2008, 08:44:47 PM

         
Correctly mounting a R/P setup onto the chassis really isn't that complicated.

Actually, it is. A front-mounted rack with the steering arms reversed will have an incorrect Ackerman angle, in order to correct the Ackerman the arms would need to be bent to an angle that would likely place the tie rod ends inside the tire. Incorrect Ackerman causes tire scrubbing on turns, in severe cases the car won't move from a dead stop with the wheel turned hard one way.

Also, unless the steering arms are shortened significantly there will be a major loss of turning radius. Racks usually have 4-5 inches total travel while the stock drag link might travel 7+ inches.

Rear mounting the rack usually limits the size of the oil pan sump and has the same turn radius problem not to mention the input shaft/steering column angle.
Pardon me but my karma just ran over your dogma.

Mike DC

QuoteActually, it is. A front-mounted rack with the steering arms reversed will have an incorrect Ackerman angle, in order to correct the Ackerman the arms would need to be bent to an angle that would likely place the tie rod ends inside the tire. Incorrect Ackerman causes tire scrubbing on turns, in severe cases the car won't move from a dead stop with the wheel turned hard one way.

Also, unless the steering arms are shortened significantly there will be a major loss of turning radius. Racks usually have 4-5 inches total travel while the stock drag link might travel 7+ inches.

Yeah, that's all true. 

I was just imagining a rear-mounted rack that was built with the stock-distance range of motion. 
It gets a lot more interesting when we start talking about front-mounting a rack that's not even big enough to begin with.

------------------------------------------------------------------


But there's tons of GM/Phord guys out there with retrofitted racks that work right.  Can't be THAT hard to do it right on a Mopar.  Our suspension dimensions aren't THAT much different when you're just looking at the raw pivot-point geometry of the control arms. 



I still think there's probably an existing R/P setup somewhere in the junkyards that could work on a classic-era Mopar.  Like a Scarebird-style deal.  It might involve some K-frame cutting but the raw idea is probably valid.  Heck, large-sized R/Ps are showing up in compact pickup platforms nowadays. 

Seems like a person could figure out a really good set of dimensions for a Mopar rack and then hit the junkyards with a tape measure. 



John_Kunkel

One way to solve the bump steer problem with racks that have the incorrect length is to use a "center steer" rack, these have the tie rods attach at the center of the rack instead of protruding from the ends of the rack. The ends of the rack attach to the frame and the center does the moving.

The pic below is of a non-Mopar conversion I recently completed using the rack from an early eighties Chevy Cavalier, it was easier than on a Mopar because the rear sump in the oil pan allows better alignment with the steering arms. This rack has six inches of travel so very little turning radius is lost using stock steering arm length. Might give some ideas, might work on a B or E body with a rear sump truck pan.
Pardon me but my karma just ran over your dogma.