What's your best 'low buck' upgrade on your Charger?

[CB]

I think one of the best upgrades that won't cost you big $$$ would be going from points to electric ignition.
Also an aluminum radiator (with bigger flow) and a trans cooler would be affordable.
When thinking about safety of course adding disc brakes is necessary but that's already a +1K project.

What do you guys think is a big improvement over stock that wouldn't break the bank?

CB

[tan top]

 i think  form a safty point ..converting to discs .... but having said that i'm still running the original manual drums ..even after a nut & bolt resto ..... will get a disc brake set up soon 

[CB]

Oh yes, forgot to mention, those Three Point Retractable Belt from XV Motorsports is on my wish list too

http://www.xvmotorsports.com/products/detail/index.cfm?nPID=113

CB

[1BAD68]

rear springs, less than 300 bucks but a huge improvement in handling

[Joshua]

The MP electronic voltage regulator to replace the old point type on the firewall for the charging system.....

[PocketThunder]

i think  form a safty point ..converting to discs .... but having said that i'm still running the original manual drums ..even after a nut & bolt resto ..... will get a disc brake set up soon 

Isn't that the truth, we spend thousands of dollars on a restoration and then keep the drum brakes because the $1100 for the disc conversion is so hard to get out of our wallet. 

[Hemidoug]

Let me know when you find something that is both an improvement AND low buck........most low buck stuff ends up costing more than the big buck stuff that should have been used the first time......

[charger_fan_4ever]

Just a note On the drum/disc comparison.

I had a 4 wheel disc trans am years ago  and still have a fox body mustang with rear drums & discs up front. The mustang always out breaked the trans am and the trans am had new discs,calipers ect.

When talking to a heavy truck mechanic thats into muscle cars he made me think twice as i always heard disc disc disc. He said that all big rigs are drum brakes.

Wonder why 

[Arthu®]

http://www.edmunds.com/ownership/techcenter/articles/43857/article.html

The way I think of it and the reason that a lot of "big rigs" still have all drum brakes is that because they are ten times larger they can get rid of the heat more efficiently than the drum brake that has to fit inside a 14" wheel. But even the "big rigs" today at least in Europe mostly have disc brakes. Trailers are still mostly drum brakes, but you have to consider that most trailers are 20 years old.

Arthur

[BigBlackDodge]

The headlight/relay upgrade was cheap and gives you a lot more light at night to drive by!


BBD

[Joshua]

http://www.edmunds.com/ownership/techcenter/articles/43857/article.html

The way I think of it and the reason that a lot of "big rigs" still have all drum brakes is that because they are ten times larger they can get rid of the heat more efficiently than the drum brake that has to fit inside a 14" wheel. But even the "big rigs" today at least in Europe mostly have disc brakes. Trailers are still mostly drum brakes, but you have to consider that most trailers are 20 years old.

Arthur

They do not get rid of heat faster....part of brake fade with drums is the drum grows as it heats up and the wheel cylinders run out of travel to make up for the extra space created by the brake drum growth....now, semi's don't have wheel cyls...they have air cans with a lever (slack adjusters) and a cam for the shoes, that have alot more travel to compensate and adjust for brake drum "growth" when hot....but they still will fade.
Ever see those runaway truck ramps on mountain passes? Also trucks will have "jake" brakes, a compression brake that closes the exhaust valves, to help slow 'em down....
There is a fleet of new Peterbuilts at work with NEW trailers.....all drum brakes.
Drum brakes get a bad rap to due improper maintainence.
Some of the cars with drums I've had in the past, one a '61 Olds, stopped much better than other cars I've had with discs.

[Foreman72]

i think the discs have more consistency and reliability...i mean why are they stock on every new car now ...as for brakes i'm interested in this...it looks pretty sick...
http://www.moparaction.com/Tech/archive/disc-main.html

but "low buck" upgrades?

-B&M shift kit
-ignition conversion
-cupholders kidding


i also agree w/ the springs...and if u don;t currently have one i'd get a suregrip...

[terrible one]

Something for my Charger that is "low buck?"

Haven't found it yet!

[BronzeOnSteelies]

My $40 fire extinguisher mounted under my dash!     

[dads_69]

Selling it saved me $$.

[Death1970Proof]

I think one of the best upgrades that won't cost you big $$$ would be going from points to electric ignition.
Also an aluminum radiator (with bigger flow) and a trans cooler would be affordable.
When thinking about safety of course adding disc brakes is necessary but that's already a +1K project.

What do you guys think is a big improvement over stock that wouldn't break the bank?

CB

Im all about budget but $1k for disc brakes???    WHOA! Let me let you guys in on a secret!  You know the '73-76 abodies?? Such as duster,dart sport and valiant?? Find one of those and rob the spindles as they will bolt directly to your control arms! Get the spindles and hardware along with the correct proportioning valve and other than that just the general replacement stuff such as a new set of rotors,master cylinder and brake pads and wheel bearings while your in there. This is what Im doing on my '70 charger.   You could probably get out for around $350 or $400 and thats buying lots of stuff new  :2thumbs :Cannot afford the wilwood stuff so this is where I turned to...

[Musicman]

Disc Brakes/ Drum Brakes...
Most brake manufactures will tell you that disc brakes are nice to have up front where the most heat is generated, but that drums are generally preferred at the rear. Drums brakes are stronger, but they are susceptible to the problems associated with off-gassing when they get hot. They do make various styles of high performance shoes for high heat applications, but they are $$$.

Bang for the Buck... Right now I would have to say that changing over to an XHD suspension system front & rear was a real nice boost for a fairly small investment. Of course, like many, my car is still a "work in progress", so time will tell.

[tan top]

The MP electronic voltage regulator to replace the old point type on the firewall for the charging system.....

yep forgot about that     even just go for  the original looking one with modern electronics

My $40 fire extinguisher mounted under my dash!

yep too true dude ..thats another good one   

[Rolling_Thunder]

low buck upgrade....       hmmmm....         Headlight Relay, converting ammeter to volt meter, electronic ignition, MSD box, Disc brakes, Shocks, Sway Bars, Rims....   

[Brock Samson]

how about a battery disconnect?..

[dkn1997]

130 amp denso alternator.  total cost was under 150.  best mod I ever did.

[69charger2002]

best 2 mods in my opinion is electronic ignition($200) and mopar front disc brake kit ($850), next would be new suspension bushings($300)

[CB]

interesting stuff guys, thanks so far for your input!
CB

[Brock Samson]

the locking gas caps are pretty sweet. 

[Ghoste]

A new ignition coil in my case.  Come to think of it, it needed a carb kit too when I started driving it.

[craigandlynda]

best, lowest buck improvement was swapping out original headlites for newer, brighter type...

[Foreman72]

how brite r those lights u hav craigandlynda?

[craigandlynda]

get the halogen type that came out in the 1980's...they look the same as original sealed beams, but shine farther and whiter...available any good auto parts store

[Ryan]

XV motorsports seat belts  $120   I feel much safer with them

08 charger srt-8 power front buckets, only cost me $200 after I sold my 70 highbacks. Made the car a million times more enjoyable.

[mikesbbody]

ditching the points, going for electronic ignition (msd 6al) so much better 

[ITSA426]

One of the lowest buck upgrades I've done is feed it a few gallons of 110 leaded racing gas.  It seems to like that.  I remember when that wasn't really an upgrade, but the gas we buy now is a step or two above cattle urine.

[CB]

so we got:

suspension:
rear springs / suspension bushings


electric:

headlight/relay upgrade
ignition conversion / electronic voltage regulator
converting ammeter to volt meter
battery disconnect
(130 amp denso) alternator

safety:

fire extinguisher / seat belts /  locking gas cap


Looks like the electric parts on our Mopars definitely could use some upgrades 

[moparjohn]

OK really simple one esp. for those who don't have a 6 way.  Take the seat spacer out of the rear of your front seat mounting bolts and stack it on the front . More rake to the seat, more comfy.

[dkn1997]

OK really simple one esp. for those who don't have a 6 way.  Take the seat spacer out of the rear of your front seat mounting bolts and stack it on the front . More rake to the seat, more comfy.

i'm now doing this mod tomorrow....that's great!!

[Foreman72]

do u have a 4 speed or a torqueflight? cuz if you have a auto i would suggest a B&M shift kit...makes for much snappyer shift...

Its a relatively simple upgrade right guys? i'll be putting one as soon as i get to the tranny portion of the restoration...

[Bad 69 Charger]

I think one of the best upgrades that won't cost you big $$$ would be going from points to electric ignition.
Also an aluminum radiator (with bigger flow) and a trans cooler would be affordable.
When thinking about safety of course adding disc brakes is necessary but that's already a +1K project.

What do you guys think is a big improvement over stock that wouldn't break the bank?

CB

Im all about budget but $1k for disc brakes???    WHOA! Let me let you guys in on a secret!  You know the '73-76 abodies?? Such as duster,dart sport and valiant?? Find one of those and rob the spindles as they will bolt directly to your control arms! Get the spindles and hardware along with the correct proportioning valve and other than that just the general replacement stuff such as a new set of rotors,master cylinder and brake pads and wheel bearings while your in there. This is what Im doing on my '70 charger.   You could probably get out for around $350 or $400 and thats buying lots of stuff new  :2thumbs :Cannot afford the wilwood stuff so this is where I turned to...

I see how easy this will work but can you use this for 14 inch wheels, i would like to change to disc on the front but keep the 14, is there a chrysler vehicle you can rob the stuff from that work for this, thanks Ben

[Brock Samson]

 I know you want to change to slots, but if and when you do make sure you go to 15s cause the 14s are too small, i found having a properly done trans and the increase in tire/wheel size really helped reduce wheel spin in a significant way. plenty of threads here about the optimum wheel tire size, my SS springs though giving a bumpy ride, reduce the squat upon launch and shift that up down motion to forward motion.
ride quality will suffer however.
so how about an update on your starting woes?.. 

[70 Charger RT]

LOW BUCK upgrade I made was sequential tail lights.  It can easily be done for under $100.  It may not add safety to your ride but I think it looks way cooooool.

[Bad 69 Charger]

Well as you can tell by the picture i built a Ga General Lee, they had 14's on them and i found this rare set of vectors, so if i have to stay with drums i will, they stop good but know that disc are better, Ben

[tripleblkr/t]

My sunroof, was practically free once I scraped out the car it came in.

[ply72rr]

KYB shocks.

[Steve P.]

I have to say the best bang for the buck is a set of disc brakes from a salvaged Volare' .

Complete running car= $200.00

Remove all parts needed for the disc set up = Your labor.

Remove all salable parts , engine, tranny, etc. = Your labor.

Scrap car and other junk laying around in and outside of your shop. = Cash for new rotors, calipers, pads, hoses, dual master cyl. and prop. valve.

Install new disc brake set up = your labor..


All said and done = you have a more dependable braking system and a few spare bucks in your pocket.

It's a win/win situation.  Now get to work... 

[Death1970Proof]

do u have a 4 speed or a torqueflight? cuz if you have a auto i would suggest a B&M shift kit...makes for much snappyer shift...

Its a relatively simple upgrade right guys? i'll be putting one as soon as i get to the tranny portion of the restoration...

I use a torqueflite trick that works very well and that is so cost effective and low buck that it costs only what the fluid and filter will cost!

I ran this on my duster drag car and it was killer! Very quick consistant shifting....

1. Drain/Drop the tranny pan  ...remove filter 

2. Remove the bolts that hold the valve body and as you are pulling out the valve body you will see a black spring in it's own round pocket. This is called the accumilator spring and it softens your upshifts. Toss this spring out and discard it if ya wanna or put it in your scrap pile.Put your valve body back in place and grab the bolts and tighten as needed.

3.While the pan is of course still off you will notice on the side that there is a black spring that is held in by a piece of steel and an allen head screw. This is your line pressure adjustment.  I cheated on this because actually it's kind of hard to get an allen wrench in there so what I did was take an el cheapo allen wrench and cut some length off of the end of it.  Take your allen wrench and adjust the spring almost all way out. You want to turn it in the direction to where the spring is compressing out,not in.   DO NOT and I repeat do not adjust the spring out to where the springs flies out...If you do that it becomes a major PITA... Adjust it to where you want it. I go on theedge and adjust it out pretty far. I like the shift quick and snappy....


4. After that screw your tranny filter back on/Replace pan: Then put in some  el cheapo 'type f" fluid. Everybit as good as that $5 a quart ripoff stuff and way less $$$. Ive run it for years and like it 

5.Fill to level needed...STOMP IT .....HOLD ON TO yOUR A**!! GRIN and wave at the camaro next to you as you pass him chirping your tires...



..This is cheaper than any shift kit I know of.....

[challenger70]

do u have a 4 speed or a torqueflight? cuz if you have a auto i would suggest a B&M shift kit...makes for much snappyer shift...

Its a relatively simple upgrade right guys? i'll be putting one as soon as i get to the tranny portion of the restoration...

I use a torqueflite trick that works very well and that is so cost effective and low buck that it costs only what the fluid and filter will cost!

I ran this on my duster drag car and it was killer! Very quick consistant shifting....

1. Drain/Drop the tranny pan  ...remove filter 

2. Remove the bolts that hold the valve body and as you are pulling out the valve body you will see a black spring in it's own round pocket. This is called the accumilator spring and it softens your upshifts. Toss this spring out and discard it if ya wanna or put it in your scrap pile.Put your valve body back in place and grab the bolts and tighten as needed.

3.While the pan is of course still off you will notice on the side that there is a black spring that is held in by a piece of steel and an allen head screw. This is your line pressure adjustment.  I cheated on this because actually it's kind of hard to get an allen wrench in there so what I did was take an el cheapo allen wrench and cut some length off of the end of it.  Take your allen wrench and adjust the spring almost all way out. You want to turn it in the direction to where the spring is compressing out,not in.   DO NOT and I repeat do not adjust the spring out to where the springs flies out...If you do that it becomes a major PITA... Adjust it to where you want it. I go on theedge and adjust it out pretty far. I like the shift quick and snappy....


4. After that screw your tranny filter back on/Replace pan: Then put in some  el cheapo 'type f" fluid. Everybit as good as that $5 a quart ripoff stuff and way less $$$. Ive run it for years and like it 

5.Fill to level needed...STOMP IT .....HOLD ON TO yOUR A**!! GRIN and wave at the camaro next to you as you pass him chirping your tires...



..This is cheaper than any shift kit I know of.....

your sure this doesn't mess anything up?

[moparstuart]

do u have a 4 speed or a torqueflight? cuz if you have a auto i would suggest a B&M shift kit...makes for much snappyer shift...

Its a relatively simple upgrade right guys? i'll be putting one as soon as i get to the tranny portion of the restoration...

I use a torqueflite trick that works very well and that is so cost effective and low buck that it costs only what the fluid and filter will cost!

I ran this on my duster drag car and it was killer! Very quick consistant shifting....

1. Drain/Drop the tranny pan  ...remove filter 

2. Remove the bolts that hold the valve body and as you are pulling out the valve body you will see a black spring in it's own round pocket. This is called the accumilator spring and it softens your upshifts. Toss this spring out and discard it if ya wanna or put it in your scrap pile.Put your valve body back in place and grab the bolts and tighten as needed.

3.While the pan is of course still off you will notice on the side that there is a black spring that is held in by a piece of steel and an allen head screw. This is your line pressure adjustment.  I cheated on this because actually it's kind of hard to get an allen wrench in there so what I did was take an el cheapo allen wrench and cut some length off of the end of it.  Take your allen wrench and adjust the spring almost all way out. You want to turn it in the direction to where the spring is compressing out,not in.   DO NOT and I repeat do not adjust the spring out to where the springs flies out...If you do that it becomes a major PITA... Adjust it to where you want it. I go on theedge and adjust it out pretty far. I like the shift quick and snappy....


4. After that screw your tranny filter back on/Replace pan: Then put in some  el cheapo 'type f" fluid. Everybit as good as that $5 a quart ripoff stuff and way less $$$. Ive run it for years and like it 

5.Fill to level needed...STOMP IT .....HOLD ON TO yOUR A**!! GRIN and wave at the camaro next to you as you pass him chirping your tires...



..This is cheaper than any shift kit I know of.....

You had me till you said type (f fluid ) which is way different then dextron/mecon not good to run that stuff in your mopar .     Were you tweeking a c-6 maybe ?

[CB]

I have to say the best bang for the buck is a set of disc brakes from a salvaged Volare' .

Complete running car= $200.00

Remove all parts needed for the disc set up = Your labor.

Remove all salable parts , engine, tranny, etc. = Your labor.

Scrap car and other junk laying around in and outside of your shop. = Cash for new rotors, calipers, pads, hoses, dual master cyl. and prop. valve.

Install new disc brake set up = your labor..


All said and done = you have a more dependable braking system and a few spare bucks in your pocket.

It's a win/win situation.  Now get to work... 

Sounds like a good plan but too bad we don't have Volares in our junk yards 
CB

[bullit68]

another angle on the electonic conversion.i recently converted one of my cars by ordering a reman dist from the auto parts store for a 78 dodge truck 440($68),i changed out the heavy advance weight spring inside with another light one(out of any elec. dist.)to get quicker advance(like the mp unit).i got an orange control box from the wreckers($10-i bought a spare.btw a lot of mid 80's chryslers have them factory installed)then i bought the mp wiring conversion harness($24)and put it in.all told $102 spent.less than half the price of buying the kit with the same result.

[Steve P.]

Sorry CB. I sometimes forget that we are not ALL here in North America.

[drifter69]

Plug in a AC/DC CD and you are automaticly upgraded.

[Ghoste]

Just tossing the spring away from your accumulator is a bad idea.  If want to take the accumulator out of the picture you need to install a blocker rod in there as well.