shift point adjustment?

[68RT440]

Hey guys, Ive been messing around with my transmission kickdown linkage lately and I think its getting close. I have a 68 Charger 440/727 combo. My question is about my shift points. I have the kickdoen (slotted lever) adjusted just as the shop manual and you guys on the site have told me. My current issue is when the trans is actually shifting now. does the threaded rod that comes up from behind the valve cover adjust the shift points? And if it does, how can I have it more drawn out inbetween shifts? My car is into seond before the rear bumper is past the stop sign, and third isnt much later after that. Im not sure if it matters but I have a Cheetah Turbo Action valve body and the Holley carb lever extension for the carb which is a Holley 750 vacuum sec., so I think as far as the linkage and carburetor is concerned im ok. Thanks for the help guys...

[Ghoste]

It can but that is sort of the wrong way to do it.  Shortening or lengthening the linkage will move the shift points in the rpm range.  The even quicker and dirtier way is to put a small bolt and nut into the slotted section of the carb and move it around to get things where you want them but the dirty way comes at a price.  The proper way to do it is to get a governor for the rpm range you want and put it in there.

[RD]

It can but that is sort of the wrong way to do it. Shortening the linkage up a little will move the shift points up in the rpm range. The even quicker and dirtier way is to put a small bolt and nut into the slotted section of the carb and move it around to get things where you want them but the dirty way comes at a price. The proper way to do it is to get a governor for the rpm range you want and put it in there.

agree, or you can get a MVB and just shift it manually   but that costs more and is a little more intensive hehe

[John_Kunkel]

The vertical rod behind the valve cover is adjusted so that the trans lever is full forward with a rig pin in the upper bellcrank, the slotted rod is then used to fine adjust the system.

I would recommend against the "bolt in the slot", (the slot serves a purpose) if the linkage is correct there should be plenty enough adjustment in the slotted rod to set the shift points to your liking. Lengthening the upper rod will raise the shift points.

[Bobs69]

I have a couple questions, becuase I too have been fighting this for some time.  And I just forgot them.  Anyhow, as I type this I forget who said the right way to do it is to get the proper governor.  So I guess the one question is, Can you buy a governor that way and not have to do any machining to it?  Is every tranny not a little different?  I won't pretend to understand transmissions............but the shop that did mine has really disappointed me.  Think I expected too much from them.  Incidentally the shop is owned by a dodge lover.

[Ghoste]

You can buy the correct governor and it will install but you do have to do a partial disassembly on the rear tailstock of the trans to get at it.

[Bobs69]

that will be a pain in the ass but I did it when I installed my gear vendors.  I can't believe that son of a b*t*h wouldn't mention that.  He is supposed to be the #1 guy around her for performance stuff.  How much is the part?

Another thing.  Is it true if I give up on setting the shift points and go full manual that the line preassure (I believe???) will be on max all the time and damage the tranny since it's not being used for racing rather it's a street car.

[John_Kunkel]

What they fail to tell you about the governor kits is that they often only shift at the advertised point for one shift, not both. IOW, if you purchase a 5500 rpm kit it might shift 2-3 at 5500 but the 1-2 might come at 6000. When this occurs you have to go into the valve body and replace shift valve springs. Shifting manually gives YOU the control.

Yes, manual VB's run the line pressure wide open and the severe shifting will decrease the life of some parts when used on the street.

[Bobs69]

Okay John thanks.  I found last night that I could adjust the linkage to make the 1-2 shift happen at 5500, but the 2-3 shift.......I have to let off the gas and get back on it again.  So you say that if I new what I was doing I could swap out some springs in the valve body to reprogram this.  Boy oh boy what a lot of bullshit.  It could possibly be a fun project but I'm so sick of it it's not funny.

Additionally!!!!!  I still don't think that the tranny shifts firm enough for something that has a stage 2 kit in it.  Any ideas.

[Bobs69]

I can't believe this!       Talk about rape

http://www.yearone.com/serverfiles/fbshopmain2.asp?cat=1

[Bobs69]

Sorry 68-rt for jumping in and asking my own questions, but it's somewhat related.

My tranny will also downshift into first while cruising at  highway speeds.  You don't dare floor it to pass.  I'm told this has something to do with the shiftkits?

[John_Kunkel]

Do you mean it downshifts to 1st while holding a cruise throttle setting or that it downshifts to first when the throttle is floored at cruising speed?

[Bobs69]

When floored John.  I am told that's the way shift kits are designed, but if you have too much throttle preassure it could downshift into first when not wanted.

I'm also told that the rebuild is 50% on the bench and 50% the linkage set-up.  And if those rods are bent (from years of whatever, pulling engines and so on) then the geometry is off and you are s.o.l.

[Bobs69]

Again 68rt440 I am sorry!  I am quite passionate about this (in a very negative angry frustrated way).