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why MUST USE GREEN BEARINGS?

Started by Nacho-RT74, August 17, 2008, 01:37:31 PM

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Nacho-RT74

Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

tan top

yeah i have wondered that also  Nacho  :scratchchin:      ...i think ..( strange )   &  (moser)  axle shafts ... say you need green bearings  also ..... would like to know why  ............................... :popcrn:
Feel free to post any relevant picture you think we all might like to see in the threads below!

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John_Kunkel



It's possible that the Yukon axles don't have the seal surface for the tapered bearing outer seal, I can't think of anything else that would prevent using the original tapered bearing; a question better asked of the maker.

I have two sets of Moser axles using the original taper bearings but they're many years old.
Pardon me but my karma just ran over your dogma.

defiance

My (possibly flawed) understanding:
original bearings were made to withstand nearly no side load - due to the inclusion of some (button, I think it's referred to as?), side loading is prevented.  However, many old diffs don't include this button, and the button is left out in most diff rebuilds, so the green bearing is made to withstand the loading.......

I think?

Something like that anyway :)

Actually, though - that's mostly with Danas, where truck rears had full floating axles before, so the button was never needed, now being converted to car units...  I can't see why that rule would apply to 8-3/4 rears?

Nacho-RT74

I need some certain answer due a friend of mine need to order 5 on 4.5 pattern axles to make the complete upgrade on his 70 Dart ( he made the front disc upgrade )
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

Nacho-RT74

got answer from Doctor diff... axles are a little bit shorter than stock ( 1/8" )

now I don't understand WHY THE HELL if you take care about make a set of axles for specific aplication DON'T MAKE IT ON THE RIGHT SIZE ? at the end, the right size works the same with green bearings

:brickwall: :brickwall: :brickwall:

maybe because is intended to replace without take care of touch the 3rd member, ( without need to rmove the thrust block ) BUT HELL!!! WHAT A LAZY!!!. you are cutting maybe half of market OR MORE with that decision
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

terrible one

Quote from: defiance on August 17, 2008, 06:10:10 PM
My (possibly flawed) understanding:
original bearings were made to withstand nearly no side load - due to the inclusion of some (button, I think it's referred to as?), side loading is prevented.  However, many old diffs don't include this button, and the button is left out in most diff rebuilds, so the green bearing is made to withstand the loading.......

I think?

Something like that anyway :)

Actually, though - that's mostly with Danas, where truck rears had full floating axles before, so the button was never needed, now being converted to car units...  I can't see why that rule would apply to 8-3/4 rears?

I would think it would be just the opposite myself. The original bearings are tapered rollers and therefore would be ideal for resisting side load, at least a lot better than a ball bearing (Greens) that has nothing "bracing" it from moving side to side. Not to say that I think the green bearings are unsuitable for street cars, because I personally have never heard of anyone's failing, and know that plenty run them.

defiance

Quote from: terrible one on August 19, 2008, 12:07:15 AM
Quote from: defiance on August 17, 2008, 06:10:10 PM
My (possibly flawed) understanding:
original bearings were made to withstand nearly no side load - due to the inclusion of some (button, I think it's referred to as?), side loading is prevented.  However, many old diffs don't include this button, and the button is left out in most diff rebuilds, so the green bearing is made to withstand the loading.......

I think?

Something like that anyway :)

Actually, though - that's mostly with Danas, where truck rears had full floating axles before, so the button was never needed, now being converted to car units...  I can't see why that rule would apply to 8-3/4 rears?

I would think it would be just the opposite myself. The original bearings are tapered rollers and therefore would be ideal for resisting side load, at least a lot better than a ball bearing (Greens) that has nothing "bracing" it from moving side to side. Not to say that I think the green bearings are unsuitable for street cars, because I personally have never heard of anyone's failing, and know that plenty run them.

Well, a tapered bearing would be ideal for resisting side load from one side, but not the other! :) Which makes for a better system, the bearings keeping the axle from sliding outward, the thrust button keeping them stabilized inward ... 
Again, that's just my understanding, and it could certainly be flawed.

Musicman

 :iagree: You feller's is correct... Both bearings are nice, but the original tapered bearing is a much better & stronger unit.