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about 750 edelbrock

Started by 66monaco, August 15, 2008, 10:04:55 AM

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66monaco

will 750 eddy work with mopar 292 cam...? idle vacuum is little poor, about 4 inhg...now it has worn out 800 holley, and i have one 750 eddy in garage :) other specs are: 383 030 over, 10.5 pistons, modified 906 heads, bigger valves etc., eddy rpm intake, hooker headers, 2,5 exhaust.... or should i go smaller cam too?  now it has went 13.2 1/4 mile, according to previous owner :) hoping to go mid 12s sometime :)
thanks!
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oldschool

that is a BIG camshaft for a street drivin 383!  :o    what gears,trans,other mods.....?
1968 cuda formula S bb 4-sp                          1968 Charger R/T 500" 4-sp
1970 Charger 580" 4-sp
1970 Cuda Convertible 500" 4-sp
1970 Cuda Convertible 500" 4-sp
TOO MUCH HORSEPOWER, IS ALMOST ENOUGH!

66monaco

yes I know! :D but it sure does rew! :D now it has : 3.91 gears, sure grip., 727, cheetah manual valve , 3100 stall, i'm planning to chance gears to about 3.55....I want it to be street and little highway driven....but allso GO!!! :D
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Ghoste

Not really an answer to your question but I had a 750 Eddy on a 383 with the Mopar 284 cam.  It worked well, the Holley of course offers more tunability but I liked the AFB style carb on there a lot.  Simple and easy.

Harlow

I had a 750 edelbrock on my old 383 and it had a 292 dur. cam. It worked fine. The previous owners really botched the build and crammed way too big a cam in there. It seemed like a decent carb. Pretty simple and easy to get a quick basic tune.

66monaco

cool, hhmmm maybe I should keep the cam and just change the carb... 800 is too big for it. I'm planning to go to wheel dyno to adjust and tune it after the carb change..
have you guys used somekinda vacuum reservoir with big cams, so power brake will work all the time? or some kinda electric vacuum pump ?? can you suggest me some?
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Harlow

With my car I wish I had followed the advice from firefighter and others and just changed the cam instead to trying to work around it. It would have saved me time and money in the long run. For only having stock dual exhaust my car sure did sound pretty good though....




66monaco

Quote from: Harlow on August 16, 2008, 03:18:13 PM
With my car I wish I had followed the advice from firefighter and others and just changed the cam instead to trying to work around it. It would have saved me time and money in the long run. For only having stock dual exhaust my car sure did sound pretty good though....





WOW! cool!!!!
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firefighter3931

Quote from: 66monaco on August 15, 2008, 10:04:55 AM
will 750 eddy work with mopar 292 cam...? idle vacuum is little poor, about 4 inhg...now it has worn out 800 holley, and i have one 750 eddy in garage :) other specs are: 383 030 over, 10.5 pistons, modified 906 heads, bigger valves etc., eddy rpm intake, hooker headers, 2,5 exhaust.... or should i go smaller cam too?  now it has went 13.2 1/4 mile, according to previous owner :) hoping to go mid 12s sometime :)
thanks!

That combo is going to be difficult to tune. The eddy carbs are designed for engine builds producing a strong vaccum signal. Your best bet would be an HP style 4150 Holley carb with an agressive fuel curve and sensative boosters.  :Twocents:

Or, you could swap in a cam that is more appropriate for the build.  ;)



Ron
68 Charger R/T "Black Pig" Street/Strip bruiser, 70 Charger R/T 440-6bbl Cruiser. Firecore ignition  authorized dealer ; contact me with your needs

66monaco

Quote from: firefighter3931 on August 16, 2008, 10:36:39 PM
Quote from: 66monaco on August 15, 2008, 10:04:55 AM
will 750 eddy work with mopar 292 cam...? idle vacuum is little poor, about 4 inhg...now it has worn out 800 holley, and i have one 750 eddy in garage :) other specs are: 383 030 over, 10.5 pistons, modified 906 heads, bigger valves etc., eddy rpm intake, hooker headers, 2,5 exhaust.... or should i go smaller cam too?  now it has went 13.2 1/4 mile, according to previous owner :) hoping to go mid 12s sometime :)
thanks!

That combo is going to be difficult to tune. The eddy carbs are designed for engine builds producing a strong vaccum signal. Your best bet would be an HP style 4150 Holley carb with an agressive fuel curve and sensative boosters.  :Twocents:

Or, you could swap in a cam that is more appropriate for the build.  ;)



Ron

ok, thanks now I have to think a little the way to go :D and what would be better, 650 or 750? and mech or vacuum...?if I keep 292 cam... and if I put new cam, any suggestion ??
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firefighter3931

Quote from: 66monaco on August 17, 2008, 07:28:54 AM
Quote from: firefighter3931 on August 16, 2008, 10:36:39 PM
Quote from: 66monaco on August 15, 2008, 10:04:55 AM
will 750 eddy work with mopar 292 cam...? idle vacuum is little poor, about 4 inhg...now it has worn out 800 holley, and i have one 750 eddy in garage :) other specs are: 383 030 over, 10.5 pistons, modified 906 heads, bigger valves etc., eddy rpm intake, hooker headers, 2,5 exhaust.... or should i go smaller cam too?  now it has went 13.2 1/4 mile, according to previous owner :) hoping to go mid 12s sometime :)
thanks!

That combo is going to be difficult to tune. The eddy carbs are designed for engine builds producing a strong vaccum signal. Your best bet would be an HP style 4150 Holley carb with an agressive fuel curve and sensative boosters.  :Twocents:

Or, you could swap in a cam that is more appropriate for the build.  ;)



Ron

ok, thanks now I have to think a little the way to go :D and what would be better, 650 or 750? and mech or vacuum...?if I keep 292 cam... and if I put new cam, any suggestion ??



If you absolutely have to keep that cam i would look at the Profrom 750 race series double pumper carb.  :Twocents:

If you wanted to swap the cam an engle k56 would be my choice. It will idle better, be easier to tune and make waaaaay more bottom end power. Torque rules  on the street.  :icon_smile_big:



Ron
68 Charger R/T "Black Pig" Street/Strip bruiser, 70 Charger R/T 440-6bbl Cruiser. Firecore ignition  authorized dealer ; contact me with your needs

66monaco

Quote from: firefighter3931 on August 17, 2008, 08:30:11 AM
Quote from: 66monaco on August 17, 2008, 07:28:54 AM
Quote from: firefighter3931 on August 16, 2008, 10:36:39 PM
Quote from: 66monaco on August 15, 2008, 10:04:55 AM
will 750 eddy work with mopar 292 cam...? idle vacuum is little poor, about 4 inhg...now it has worn out 800 holley, and i have one 750 eddy in garage :) other specs are: 383 030 over, 10.5 pistons, modified 906 heads, bigger valves etc., eddy rpm intake, hooker headers, 2,5 exhaust.... or should i go smaller cam too?  now it has went 13.2 1/4 mile, according to previous owner :) hoping to go mid 12s sometime :)
thanks!

That combo is going to be difficult to tune. The eddy carbs are designed for engine builds producing a strong vaccum signal. Your best bet would be an HP style 4150 Holley carb with an agressive fuel curve and sensative boosters.  :Twocents:

Or, you could swap in a cam that is more appropriate for the build.  ;)



Ron

ok, thanks now I have to think a little the way to go :D and what would be better, 650 or 750? and mech or vacuum...?if I keep 292 cam... and if I put new cam, any suggestion ??



If you absolutely have to keep that cam i would look at the Profrom 750 race series double pumper carb.  :Twocents:

If you wanted to swap the cam an engle k56 would be my choice. It will idle better, be easier to tune and make waaaaay more bottom end power. Torque rules  on the street.  :icon_smile_big:



Ron

ok, thanks again :) something to do for winter :D
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66monaco

ou and question about my torque converter I now have 3100 stall turbo action and 742 case 3.91 gears... I planning to change gears to 3.55....and if I change that cam too, ain't that to much stall? I don't want to change converter yet...
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Ghoste

Depends on your final goal.  Stall is partly a function of torque so changing a cam can leave the torque converter happy with either stick.  The tc is more flexible to change than the camshaft (to a point).

gordo1968charger

68 charger+4 kids=2 jobs

66monaco

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66monaco

hi, I have hard time to get hold of anyone at Engle camshafts! Ron, what else cam would you suggess??
thanks!
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firefighter3931

Quote from: 66monaco on December 17, 2008, 02:59:33 AM
hi, I have hard time to get hold of anyone at Engle camshafts! Ron, what else cam would you suggess??
thanks!

Here is a good cam that will work fine with your existing parts :

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=LUN%2D60303LK&autoview=sku

You will need a 3 bolt timing set with the VooDoo bumpstick :

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=CCA%2D2109&autoview=sku



Ron
68 Charger R/T "Black Pig" Street/Strip bruiser, 70 Charger R/T 440-6bbl Cruiser. Firecore ignition  authorized dealer ; contact me with your needs

66monaco

ok thanks! that seems ok! what do you guys think about crane cams? good ones? :D
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66monaco

one question about carbs ...you have suggess a proform 750.... what about speed demon 750 mech....? yes, I have heard that they have to be cleaned before using...? but are there any significant difference? I like demons looks  :icon_smile_big:
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firefighter3931

Quote from: 66monaco on December 22, 2008, 11:18:57 AM
one question about carbs ...you have suggess a proform 750.... what about speed demon 750 mech....? yes, I have heard that they have to be cleaned before using...? but are there any significant difference? I like demons looks  :icon_smile_big:


I haven't had good luck with Demon carbs. The main difference is the fuel curve which tends to be too conservative on the Demons. On a very mild engine combo it might be Ok and it might not....you'll have to try it and see for yourself.  ;)



Ron
68 Charger R/T "Black Pig" Street/Strip bruiser, 70 Charger R/T 440-6bbl Cruiser. Firecore ignition  authorized dealer ; contact me with your needs

66monaco

hhhmmm mayby I'll trust you on that proform...both of thm are quite expencive to buy...so..:) i just pulled the plugs out first time...allmost all of them was wet...! plugwires are ok, they are 300+.... could it be 'cause of the big cam...valves same time open much..? or the carb has just too big jets...?
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66monaco

oh, and previous owner told me that theres stiffest single valvesrings from mopar, p5249848....and he said If i'm changing cam, look for roller cam, therefor I don't have to change normal valvespring during cam in running...with roller quess there no danger breaking to cam during cam break in.. :) so many choices to make.. :D heads are 906, with bigger valves 2.14 intake, exhaust, i dunno...and they are ported to flow +500hp...
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firefighter3931

Quote from: 66monaco on December 23, 2008, 02:42:20 PM
hhhmmm mayby I'll trust you on that proform...both of thm are quite expencive to buy...so..:) i just pulled the plugs out first time...allmost all of them was wet...! plugwires are ok, they are 300+.... could it be 'cause of the big cam...valves same time open much..? or the carb has just too big jets...?


There could be several reasons for the wet plugs but yes.....large cams with lots of overlap can contribute to the problem. I was assuming that you allready had a speed demon on the shelf. If that is not the case buy the Proform and be done with it.  ;)


Ron
68 Charger R/T "Black Pig" Street/Strip bruiser, 70 Charger R/T 440-6bbl Cruiser. Firecore ignition  authorized dealer ; contact me with your needs

firefighter3931

Quote from: 66monaco on December 23, 2008, 02:48:24 PM
oh, and previous owner told me that theres stiffest single valvesrings from mopar, p5249848....and he said If i'm changing cam, look for roller cam, therefor I don't have to change normal valvespring during cam in running...with roller quess there no danger breaking to cam during cam break in.. :) so many choices to make.. :D heads are 906, with bigger valves 2.14 intake, exhaust, i dunno...and they are ported to flow +500hp...

Those springs might be too stiff for the VooDoo cam but you will have to check them to make sure. The Comp Cams #911 valvespring works fine with that Lunati 220/226 grind. All new cams must be properly broken in.  :yesnod:


Ron
68 Charger R/T "Black Pig" Street/Strip bruiser, 70 Charger R/T 440-6bbl Cruiser. Firecore ignition  authorized dealer ; contact me with your needs

66monaco

new 750 proform mech ordered! should arrive next week! I think I'll past on the cam chainge for this winter, theres so much other things to do for it...I'll test how it run and work on new carb and those 3.55 rings....and I'll try to find here a good dyno, where to tune it and get the facts! :D I can change the cam, any time in the summer ,at my work or my garage. :) And I'm gonna buy somekinda vacuum reservoir for the lamps ja power brakes :)
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firefighter3931

The PF 750 is a very good choice.  :2thumbs: It will be much easier to tune and make consistent power throughout the RPM range. You might have to install a lower rated power valve to clean up the idle....but you won't know that until you install it and start tuning.  :icon_smile_big:



Ron
68 Charger R/T "Black Pig" Street/Strip bruiser, 70 Charger R/T 440-6bbl Cruiser. Firecore ignition  authorized dealer ; contact me with your needs

66monaco

cool! yep, there's gonna be some tuning to do, in the spring :D I allready have air/fuel ratio ja vacuum meters installed in the dash, so it should be easy  :icon_smile_big:
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Ghoste


66monaco

new proform, valvecovers and msd 6al installed!  :coolgleamA:

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kamkuda

Purdy,  How does she run now?

66monaco

haven't tryed yet, there still lots of things to do, electric fuel pump, trunk painting, hifi installions etc little stuff ;)  :) and it's winter now, we'll see in the spring ;) I'll try to get it to the dyno...so then we get the facts! :D
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66monaco

previous owner drove that 13.2 / 1/4m. with slicks....hopefully I'll do atleast the same with 275/60r15 street tyres...now  :lol: :coolgleamA:
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66monaco

I got a time for a dyno! May 11th we get facts! :yesnod:  and car is almost ready! just "wax on, wax off" !! :D 
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skip68

skip68, A.K.A. Chuck \ 68 Charger 440 auto\ 67 Camaro RS (no 440)       FRANKS & BEANS !!!


73 charger

i have the 750 edelbroch....had to change fuel line from 5/16 to 3/8.  car bogging on track 80-90mph.   much better now.   60 foot times less than 2sec. 
1973 Dodge Charger, "Big Blue", Petty Blue (TB3), 408 Stroker, 460 TQ, RPM Air Gap Dual Plane Intake #7577, Edelbrock 750 cfm Performer Carb #1411, Holley Fuel pump (110 gph), Edelbrock #8877 water pump, MSD #8388 pro-billet RTR distrib, Comp Cam 233I/240E, lobe sep 110 deg, Hayes Heavy-Duty Flexplate, TCI Breakaway Torque Converter-stall 2200-2400, TCI 727-Street Fighter, DTS Stainless Steel balanced drive shaft tube with 7290 u-joint/yoke, DTS 3:54 Dana 60, Trak-Lok posi-unit, MT Drag Radials

Beer

Quote from: 73 charger on May 05, 2009, 09:01:18 AM
i have the 750 edelbroch....had to change fuel line from 5/16 to 3/8.  car bogging on track 80-90mph.   much better now.   60 foot times less than 2sec. 

What are you running in 1/4?  We have comparible setups.

Jim
1973 Dodge Charger 402 Stroker Smallblock 414 HP/ 466 ft/lbs torque,  8 3/4" 3.91 Suregrip rear w/ DR. Diff disk brake conversion, CalTracs single leaf and Rear Suspension, VFN Bulge Hood, Running, needs interior completed, Had to give to Ex-Wife in divorce 2017...

73 charger

My 73 with 3/4 fuel and me in it weighs 4140lbs.   So far best 1/4, 5 Apr 09 @2:23 pm, Budds Creek, MD.  13.805 at 100.91 mph.  Since then upgraded fuel system...waiting for weather to improve to get back to the track!  My 408 dyno results with TQ 459.85lbft @3900, Cpower 386.13 C_HP @5200.

Mike
1973 Dodge Charger, "Big Blue", Petty Blue (TB3), 408 Stroker, 460 TQ, RPM Air Gap Dual Plane Intake #7577, Edelbrock 750 cfm Performer Carb #1411, Holley Fuel pump (110 gph), Edelbrock #8877 water pump, MSD #8388 pro-billet RTR distrib, Comp Cam 233I/240E, lobe sep 110 deg, Hayes Heavy-Duty Flexplate, TCI Breakaway Torque Converter-stall 2200-2400, TCI 727-Street Fighter, DTS Stainless Steel balanced drive shaft tube with 7290 u-joint/yoke, DTS 3:54 Dana 60, Trak-Lok posi-unit, MT Drag Radials

66monaco

well today I was at dyno... 374 rwhp... didn't get torque 'cause there was just kW gauge, and he didn't get right rpm's :( but I'm glad, I expected around 350... so it's good! and did a little highway testing too... 139mph and shift light went on (set to 6000)..and it would of liked to go more...still I have to work on distributor, it gives too much advance, over 30 deg...man who dynod, said to limit total timing to around 36 and put basic way up to 20 deg...
heres few pics too, one from dyno place and one from those ram air system..
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Ghoste

Good work, it's always nice when you exceed your expectations.

66monaco

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73 charger

Can you post pictures of your intake collection?  I need to add a cold air intake my self!!   Where did you get the intake?  I was trying to decide connecting to the cowl vs under radiator support like you have!!   My 1/4 mile time improved to 13.783 fri eve!

Mike
1973 Dodge Charger, "Big Blue", Petty Blue (TB3), 408 Stroker, 460 TQ, RPM Air Gap Dual Plane Intake #7577, Edelbrock 750 cfm Performer Carb #1411, Holley Fuel pump (110 gph), Edelbrock #8877 water pump, MSD #8388 pro-billet RTR distrib, Comp Cam 233I/240E, lobe sep 110 deg, Hayes Heavy-Duty Flexplate, TCI Breakaway Torque Converter-stall 2200-2400, TCI 727-Street Fighter, DTS Stainless Steel balanced drive shaft tube with 7290 u-joint/yoke, DTS 3:54 Dana 60, Trak-Lok posi-unit, MT Drag Radials

66monaco

i try to take more pics from it, why I can. the air cleaner box is bought from spectre performance  http://www.spectreperformance.com/#CATALOG
and air tubes are just basic house ventilation tubes.. ;) and they go trough the inner fenders to front lower valance, which allready had couple of holes, just the right size, where to fit tubes. and i allso made little spoilers so it get air easily... heres couple pics where to tube comes from inner fender to valance.. and one pic from freshly painted trunk...  :cheers:
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firefighter3931

Quote from: 66monaco on May 11, 2009, 02:40:23 PM
well today I was at dyno... 374 rwhp... didn't get torque 'cause there was just kW gauge, and he didn't get right rpm's :( but I'm glad, I expected around 350... so it's good! and did a little highway testing too... 139mph and shift light went on (set to 6000)..and it would of liked to go more...still I have to work on distributor, it gives too much advance, over 30 deg...man who dynod, said to limit total timing to around 36 and put basic way up to 20 deg...
heres few pics too, one from dyno place and one from those ram air system..

Very Nice....excellent results for a 383 !  :2thumbs: So i guess it's safe to say you're happy with the new Proform carb ? You must have noticed a huge improvement in drivability and power  ;)

Your Dyno guy is correct....that 292 cam will want 20* at idle and 36-38* total....all in by 2500-2800 rpm. Too much total advance will reduce top end power.

Nice job on the fresh air intake system....that's worth some power.  :2thumbs:



Ron
68 Charger R/T "Black Pig" Street/Strip bruiser, 70 Charger R/T 440-6bbl Cruiser. Firecore ignition  authorized dealer ; contact me with your needs

66monaco

Thanks Ron!  tomorrow I'll work on the distributor, hmm, should I limit mechanical advance on the "end" of it movement or in the beginning? And quess I should limit movement almost half? and should I use lighter springs? or should I just take the heavier spring off? So I'll get total timing in around that 2600-2800rpm? I use mopar dist.
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firefighter3931

Quote from: 66monaco on May 12, 2009, 02:38:00 PM
Thanks Ron!  tomorrow I'll work on the distributor, hmm, should I limit mechanical advance on the "end" of it movement or in the beginning? And quess I should limit movement almost half? and should I use lighter springs? or should I just take the heavier spring off? So I'll get total timing in around that 2600-2800rpm? I use mopar dist.

Limit the travel at the end....if you get the slots sized to .375inches that will be close enough. This should give you ~18* of mechanical advance. The newer MP distributors have torx button screws and adjustable stops to limit advance. The older distributors will require some welding and possibly some file work to dial in the slot size. If you have a MIG available....zap the end of the slot and file if need be.  ;)

For the springs....remove the heavy spring and replace with a light spring. This should dial in the curve where it needs to be.  :2thumbs:


Ron
68 Charger R/T "Black Pig" Street/Strip bruiser, 70 Charger R/T 440-6bbl Cruiser. Firecore ignition  authorized dealer ; contact me with your needs

66monaco

yes I have mig at work. I'll "tune"tomorrow :) thanks again Ron very much!
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73 charger

Thanks for posting pics!!! This gives me some ideas!   I am placing a Hurst Line Lock on the car this week for next track day!  Then I'll takle the cold air induction!!!  :D

Mike
1973 Dodge Charger, "Big Blue", Petty Blue (TB3), 408 Stroker, 460 TQ, RPM Air Gap Dual Plane Intake #7577, Edelbrock 750 cfm Performer Carb #1411, Holley Fuel pump (110 gph), Edelbrock #8877 water pump, MSD #8388 pro-billet RTR distrib, Comp Cam 233I/240E, lobe sep 110 deg, Hayes Heavy-Duty Flexplate, TCI Breakaway Torque Converter-stall 2200-2400, TCI 727-Street Fighter, DTS Stainless Steel balanced drive shaft tube with 7290 u-joint/yoke, DTS 3:54 Dana 60, Trak-Lok posi-unit, MT Drag Radials

66monaco

cool! I have line lock too..

now the slot are about .590" and basic advance is around 18 and it starts good, but total advance don't rise above 22.....quess i have to file little more :)  and i notised that there a big cap between p and D! idle is around 900 at P and now when I put first, engine allmost stops...

and damn, that highway speed test quess didn't do good, now theres a little clank at the right side of engine and it sounds like bearings...!! lets hope not! :brickwall:
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firefighter3931

Quote from: 66monaco on May 13, 2009, 12:17:03 PM
cool! I have line lock too..

now the slot are about .590" and basic advance is around 18 and it starts good, but total advance don't rise above 22.....quess i have to file little more :)  and i notised that there a big cap between p and D! idle is around 900 at P and now when I put first, engine allmost stops...

and damn, that highway speed test quess didn't do good, now theres a little clank at the right side of engine and it sounds like bearings...!! lets hope not! :brickwall:

If the total advance isn't moving past 22* then your weights are sticking....you need to find out why.  :yesnod:

I like to ide them up at 850+ in gear....i don't worry about the idle speed in neutral. A cam that big in a 383 is going to have a pretty nasty idle anyway.  ;)

Hope the engine isn't hurt.  :icon_smile_blackeye:



Ron
68 Charger R/T "Black Pig" Street/Strip bruiser, 70 Charger R/T 440-6bbl Cruiser. Firecore ignition  authorized dealer ; contact me with your needs

66monaco

today I check the distributor...slot are ok, but I changed the orginal springs back, and now it works! basic advance is, at D and 800rpm, around 18 and total timing in about 3000rpm, 38.....mayby 2 degrees too much bad it seems to work ok....well quess it works, I accelerated the whole first gear and changed quikly to second and it went little sideways... ;) :D and I changed my holley blue pump to mallory 110! 10 times quieter than holley!! so I had a good day! :2thumbs:
alltough now I worry about that clanking..it don't clank and idle but when rpms rice above 1500 it clank little around 4-6 cylinder....I just hope there ain't nothing wrong with pistons etc.... I have to try to adjust pushrods next...or maybe some lifter has got hurt... :scratchchin:
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firefighter3931

Quote from: 66monaco on May 16, 2009, 05:18:07 PM
today I check the distributor...slot are ok, but I changed the orginal springs back, and now it works! basic advance is, at D and 800rpm, around 18 and total timing in about 3000rpm, 38.....mayby 2 degrees too much bad it seems to work ok....well quess it works, I accelerated the whole first gear and changed quikly to second and it went little sideways... ;) :D and I changed my holley blue pump to mallory 110! 10 times quieter than holley!! so I had a good day! :2thumbs:
alltough now I worry about that clanking..it don't clank and idle but when rpms rice above 1500 it clank little around 4-6 cylinder....I just hope there ain't nothing wrong with pistons etc.... I have to try to adjust pushrods next...or maybe some lifter has got hurt... :scratchchin:

Good work....18/38 is fine  :2thumbs:   Pull the valvecovers and have a look at the valvetrain....you might have a bad/collapsed lifter.  :scratchchin:



Ron
68 Charger R/T "Black Pig" Street/Strip bruiser, 70 Charger R/T 440-6bbl Cruiser. Firecore ignition  authorized dealer ; contact me with your needs